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Messages - Hawko
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« on: 28 August 2016, 10:25:04 pm »
When my speedo drive went bad, the speed constantly read 0 and the revs would work intermittently. Would definitely look into that.
Ok thanks neither are working at the moment will check,the speedo coupling on the front wheel Cheers
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« on: 28 August 2016, 10:20:10 pm »
I'm going to be wiring up a Koso DB-03 hopefully in the next couple of weeks so will post up anything I work out.
Just gotta get the 'busa front end fitted first
That would be awesome I'm stuck on getting the revs to work on an aftermarket speedo Cheers
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« on: 28 August 2016, 10:15:39 pm »
Hey Matey
Did you ever come right with your speedo wiring issues as Im also looking at the same problem?
thanks
Sorry mate, never did go for the Koso. Don't even have the Fazer any more (VFR 800 for the last year and change).
Ok many thanks for replying
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« on: 19 August 2016, 05:52:11 pm »
Hey Matey
Did you ever come right with your speedo wiring issues as Im also looking at the same problem?
thanks
5
« on: 19 August 2016, 05:33:13 pm »
Hello Matey
Was searching through posts, and as I bought same speedo as you have shown here, was wondering if you ever got the RPM sorted, as thats one area that isnt working on mine as well?
many thanks
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« on: 24 May 2016, 09:42:45 am »
Normally the bike will start jumping out of 2nd and quickly end up with no 2nd gear at all. Here is my method that I use to change the selector mechanisms on FZS600s....
ok if you have a Haynes manual/book of lies ignore it completely from here on in:
Drain oil. remove down pipes remove sump remove clutch casing remove entire clutch basket (withdraw push rod and don't lose the ball bearing that sits in the basket end) remove oil pump remove the gear lever remove gear selector shaft remove the sprung wheel that the selector drum runs on (making sure that its in neutral and taking note of how the mechanism goes back in) remove the bolts that hold the fork shafts in place Now the next section is easier if you have a bike bench otherwise you have to do it laying on your back
slowly withdraw the rear rod that the left and right forks run on (the forks should not come out but just make sure you steady them as the rod comes out so the don't wedge against the gears) repeat with the front rod that holds the centre fork now carefully remove the drum and remove the forks as the drum comes out. make note of how the forks go in (they are marked left, right, and centre)
now clean and examine the drum and forks. normally the drum is fine but the forks especially the centre will have been worn and it will be obvious which is causing the problem, REPLACE ALL THREE, the drum can normally be reused.
Now replace the drum but don't secure it in place just yet but make sure neutral is pointing down to the six o'clock position locate the two new rear forks then slide the rod into place guiding the forks into the correct position as you go do the same to the front/centre fork. refit everything inside the engine making sure that the oil pump shaft mates securely with the water pump shaft when refitted cycle through the gears by hand before refitting the clutch casing just to make sure
refit clutch casing, sump, and pipes, fill with oil strut around the garage in a manly way and sup tea whilst bragging to your mates/wife/kids that you are a truly great spanner monkey!
Job done!
**NOTE** This is not a novice job and I may have omitted and item or two as I am typing it from memory but that will become obvious if you attempt the task. My local Yamaha dealer still insist its an engine out and split job but I have done this for several of my customers without issue, but saying that unless I am actually doing the job I do not take responsibility for anyone using this post to fix their own bike, so if you arse it up don't blame me..... Thank you.
Hey Deefer, do you atill work on other bikes at all? As i have a stuck gear lever and nbot competent enought to do the above fixes? Cheers Hawko (Bedford)
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« on: 23 May 2016, 09:59:50 pm »
Soi did the same plate change with the EBC spring etc, and now the gear shifter wont move at all. Just hope I havent bent anything...
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« on: 23 May 2016, 07:55:15 pm »
Installed new clutch plates, but now gear lever is solid and wont move Any ideas please?
Search on the forum as recently guys have put the plates in wrong, don't know the exact thread but it'd be worth reading before you do anything else. It also mentions about using heavier springs being a problem as being too heavy to use the clutch.
Yes read all those thanks Sinto, its the actual gear lever that is now rigid
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« on: 23 May 2016, 05:58:33 pm »
Installed new clutch plates, but now gear lever is solid and wont move Any ideas please?
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« on: 11 November 2015, 09:28:21 am »
Started converting to a naked/fighter road bike.... Naked Fazer on the way.... | Naked Fazer on the way.... |
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« on: 17 October 2015, 10:03:02 am »
Also keen as just picked up a 98 fazer and thinking of doing the same thing
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« on: 14 October 2015, 02:11:06 pm »
Added photo to original post... thanks guys
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« on: 13 October 2015, 07:51:39 am »
Cheers
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« on: 11 October 2015, 01:14:08 pm »
Just got me a 98 FZS600 and thought I would introduce myself as I will probably need help very shortly getting it sorted for its MOT. Cheers. FZS600 before i change it... | FZS600 before i change it... |
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