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Messages - Fazafou
26
« on: 06 March 2015, 05:34:50 pm »
im tempted to get a 2nd red or a white and attach to the brake light aswell.
Ah, mine is just a brake light, would be good with both on there though.
27
« on: 06 March 2015, 03:52:28 pm »
Looks good, I have the givi one fitted in mine, with the contact switch like you say. Makes a good addition to the bike.
28
« on: 05 March 2015, 05:51:46 pm »
I was in a similar situation but different vehicle (long story) and ended up buying an air fuel ratio sensor and gauge off Amazon. While it was about 120 quid, when compared to repeat dyno sessions it's a cheaper alternative and you have a sensor and gauge to keep. Either just shove it up the exhaust or cut a hole after collector box and brazed the collar on to fit the sensor (before any cat). Works brilliantly and you can see the AFR in real-time as you're tuning and even while riding if fitted into the exhaust properly. This way you can make adjustments to needle heights and see where it leans out in rev range and by how much. I don't know if you want to go this route, but I learnt more about carbs in that one tune up than I have in over 20 years riding, so you could use it as a learning curve too 
29
« on: 03 March 2015, 09:50:58 am »
If it were me I'd park at a decent overground station farther out. Usually far more parking space at a large overground station and the trains in are quicker if you get the fast direct trains.
Works out a bit more pricey but I think worth it for the agree.
Possibly Watford or St Albans for example.
30
« on: 02 March 2015, 03:58:38 pm »
Out of interest does it display temperature in Celsius, I've heard the imports only do Fahrenheit.
31
« on: 01 March 2015, 05:08:14 pm »
There's a large metal disc in there with a needle that blocks off the flow when stationary. When the bike hits bumps etc in normal riding, the movement makes the weight lift and allow flow. I had one and ended up chucking it, flow eventually stopped over time. I now use a PDOiler which is electrically pumped. No fiddling around with gravity feed and it's a controlled output regardless of temperature etc
32
« on: 27 February 2015, 10:14:27 am »
Combination locks are the easiest to 'crack'. Ok I guess but I wouldn't leave a fancy high price lid protected with one.
I've got a pacsafe mesh bag and they work well, just upgrade the padlock if you get one as they're a bit on the weak side.
I quite like the look of the Oxford bag and lock though, nice idea that.
33
« on: 26 February 2015, 12:16:05 pm »
I have a Fuel on my FZ1 and really like them (previously had them before too). Quality is excellent and sound very nice without being antisocial. Removable baffle if you want to be though  You also get a piece of Kendal mint cake which swings the deal for me 
34
« on: 22 February 2015, 08:51:18 pm »
Could be the rare 5 gear version, they only made a few and worth huge sums of cash.
35
« on: 22 February 2015, 04:58:39 pm »
36
« on: 22 February 2015, 10:32:47 am »
Yeah I use 2 sensors to detect up or down shift then the neutral light to show an 'n' on the display.
The whole thing is a bit of a novelty and just a project for me to play with arduino and coding, so the odd missed gear messing it up until I reach 6th or neutral isn't a big deal to me.
The cleanest method I've seen was on the TDMs as they use a nylon disc on the spindle which you can wire contacts to, so the actual gear location can be truly indicated. I'm not sure of the fazer has the same fitting so will be looking for one as my next project if it does.
37
« on: 22 February 2015, 07:19:42 am »
I like the Ardrino idea but also the LED behing the rev counter to indicate the gears, the usual 7 seg LED display tends to be expensive for what it is, might dig through my components and see what I can build :-)
Got my arduino version working on the bench last night. Couple of hall sensors detect a magnet which will be fitted on the gear selector. Works nicely and shifts the 7 segment through the gears. Just need to code the neutral light into it to 'calibrate' it.
38
« on: 20 February 2015, 05:23:15 pm »
No probs You'll probably be fine for a while in all fairness, but worth getting it sorted properly when you get a chance.
39
« on: 20 February 2015, 03:59:01 pm »
It would be a pretty focing useless for repairing radiators if it foced the radiators instead of repairing them, don't you think?
You're missing the point. Radweld is an old 'get you home' product, the idea being you chucked it in, it sealed the hole and you got the motor back to then drain the system and sort the issue. It's not really meant as a long term solution and can slowly start to bung up pipes and fine coolant channels. Also if your head gasket ever leaks you end up with it in your combustion chamber. Motorcycle engines operates at much higher stresses than the engines radweld was originally designed for. Choice is yours of course, it may not have any detrimental effect, but why risk it.
40
« on: 19 February 2015, 09:26:46 pm »
Gordan Smith would be nice and good to support a British maker, but probably too pricey for that budget.
41
« on: 19 February 2015, 01:33:11 pm »
Because your now running lean and the engine will eventually melt
42
« on: 18 February 2015, 08:12:30 pm »
Haven't previously, but I'm thinking of making an Arduino one, there's some nice setups where people have fitted LEDs behind the rev counter so the gear is shown by the rev number if you see what I mean.
I agree it's a gimmick, but look good and when I had one as standard on a Tiger 800 surprisingly useful when you're looking for 7th gear.
43
« on: 18 February 2015, 09:33:12 am »
You can never have enough tyre threads You'll have lots of opinions and different tyres suit different riders so our preferences may not be yours. I'd check the existing tons of threads on this (there are many), but personally I like Michelin Pilot Roads, have PR3s at moment. Excellent in the wet, very good in the dry, suit my riding and not bad wear.
44
« on: 18 February 2015, 08:46:02 am »
Do you have any pictures of the 'car sponge'?
Not meant as a criticism, but when someone says they are not mechanically minded enough to change an air filter, I'd say get a friend or local garage to do the work. Easy to make things worse if you don't know what you're playing with.
45
« on: 16 February 2015, 09:19:58 pm »
Sorry matey but no,
I'll just agree to disagree with some of that, but most is true, but as I said I was hugely generalising to avoid a post becoming immense
46
« on: 16 February 2015, 03:33:52 pm »
I thought the damn the Lancasters used was Ladybower in Derbyshire?
They did some testing at Ladybower but it wasn't the 'main' one.
47
« on: 16 February 2015, 02:32:54 pm »
Experience, talking to others, internet research.
It's a hugely summarised explanation, as I say its like telling someone which tyre to use.
As a 'standard' pad I'd always go sintered as these are the best for 'all round' use. Organic no good in wet, ceramic designed for higher temperatures (higher speeds or track use).
Lots of variables and personal favourite brands to chose from though.
48
« on: 16 February 2015, 01:45:49 pm »
Keeping it simple
49
« on: 16 February 2015, 08:18:45 am »
Brake pads are like tyres on that the choice is dependent on the type of riding you do. A weekend warrior that rags the bike hard on dry roads will have very different needs from the pads than a commuter who rides through all weather's.
A very general way of looking at it is:
Organic - best in dry conditions, dusty but low wear on your discs. Not great in the wet, so generally not a great choice for all weather riders.
Sintered, not as good from cold but good once warm and much better in the wet than organic. Higher wear rate on discs.
The brands etc will always split people just like tyre choice, so it's almost a case of trying them out to find what you like.
50
« on: 15 February 2015, 07:58:06 am »
If you remove the cat from the downpipes would this not have more effect on back pressure than removing the exup?
The exup is open or partially open in most of the rev range but the cat is like a honeycomb that has quite small holes in.
Removing back pressure is a good thing, it's exhaust velocity you don't want to lose, which the exup can help with. The idea of 'back pressure' is a bit of a misconception http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/exhaustbackpressure.htmlGetting rid of the cat will help, going to a huge wide pipe can be detrimental though if velocity is compromised, so the exup can add a restriction to increase the velocity again. This all needs to be tuned though. As long as the aftermarket pipes aren't too wide they should be ok, but I've noticed in the past on some bikes I've taken the baffle out of, the sound improves but power is down.
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