Just a quick split of the cases 😀. Hope it goes to plan!

It's been one of those jobs, centre stand broke the day before I started, had to fix that. One exhaust stud snapped flush with the head and the pilot drill snapped inside so I had to get the dremmel & grind it out and now this. Hopefully no more issues, it's already taken way longer than it should have

Help!! has anyone had problems removing the flywheel on an FZS1000? I've tightened it as much as I can and been hitting it with a hammer, I have even bought the Yamaha puller but it won't budge.
Am I missing something? Has anyone got any tips?
I only need it off to split the casings and change a bearing.

Cam chain won't be worn at 46k.  I know of Gen 1s with 146k on the motor and still no cam chain wear.

I don't see mention of you changing the O-rings on the float valve needle seats.  That would be my first port of call for any low-speed rough-running issues, along with the pilot jets and their passageways.

I have only found one person who has said their cam chain was worn, hence wanting to find the valve opening & closing angles so that I can check mine to see if the timing is right. If I could use the endless chain, for £24, I’d put one in to make sure, but, at £80 for a split chain, I’d want to be more certain.
 
I have changed the “o” rings even though there was no sign of flooding. The carbs were my first port of call to clean jets etc. I’ve now stripped and cleaned them 3 times. I think I’ve got the passageways checked, but had hoped to find a fuel & air flow diagram for them so I could be sure I’ve got them all clear where they need to be.

Looking for another Fazer FZS1000 Gen 1 as mine was written off,  I thought I had one sorted but, sadly, it didn’t happen, so I have the money waiting. Looking for a bike in reasonable condition, although I’m quite capable of doing a bit of work if the bike has the potential.
With the COVID restrictions, I’m not sure how I am going to go about seeing a bike, so ideally something fairly near to me in Bristol or we can work something out for when things change.

Well I managed to break the drill bit in the bypass holes, unfortunately just below the surface. Luckily I have been able, with watchmakers tweezers & an eyeglass, to remove the end of the broken drill.

Can anyone confirm the drill size, I measure it at .95 mm, but would like to confirm that. Next task is to find somebody who stocks that size locally....

Just to throw this one into the mix, my '02 17k miles bike had pretty much the same issues as yours. Pretty sure the bike had been stood for a while too. Tried stripping the carbs and cleaning them but only got marginal improvements. The cure was to strip them again and put new jets and float valves in, also swapped the inlet stubs as these were badly cracked but not completely through. Did these as it's such a pain to get the carbs off and didn't want the hassle of doing it yet again if they turned out to be an issue! Hope this helps.

That's interesting, I've stripped & cleaned the carbs and only a marginal improvement. As with yours, my inlet stubs have external cracking. I'm not keen to shell out the cost of replacements as I would expect that to affect a single cylinder rather than all 4 plugs being very white. I might try wrapping them self amalgamating tape which would prove airtightness. I did find the float heights to be varied, but again, that would not cause all 4 cyls to run lean.

I'm expecting a 90° screwdriver tomorrow so will try the mixture settings. That might give me a better indication or possibly be the cure. I have a spare set of coils/leads/caps which I might try as well, although I do not feel it is electrical but this will eliminate that.

The plan is to fit an Ivans slip on kit and remove the AIS, but want to sort the problem before I add any further complications.

Have looked at the Exup, it was fine, but I stripped it & greased it when I had the problem with it not revving over 6k (was the bit of wire Mike & Pieeater pointed me to).

Mike, it's an 02 with 15k on it, I don't know if it had been parked up, but I am suspecting the pilots if it's not the can. It looks like a carb strip is in order at which time I might as well do an Ivan kit.

That being the case what are the differences in the 2 Ivan kits? my impression of the full monty is that it gives the ultimate power, but I believe it requires an improved can along with the air filter change. I'm not after ultimate power, but would prefer a smother transition from low, mid to the upper rev range. Which I believe the "slip on" kit will do.

That's a good point Mike, I'll do that while I'm in there. Looked at getting a plug out the other day, looked a PITA so I'll not want to do that too often.

Hopefully the basics will smooth it out,  always concerned with a new buy if fixing bits will send the cost spiralling.

well, I had a look, there was a small bundle of cable over the inlet and I "KNEW" that wouldn't do it, after all, I was factory trained by Yamaha (bear with me, it was 25 years before this bike was built....), tidied that out of the way and pulled the filter which seemed OK, just a couple of bits of debris. Checked the exup again, made sure the servo was free. But I "KNEW" I hadn't achieved anything.

Couldn't test it Saturday, read your comments and scoffed, almost took the bet......just ran it up the road......s#1t, it accelerates when it hits 7k, almost fell off the bloody thing with surprise......thought I'd bought a motorbike, not a ballistic missile....

Thanks guys, I doff my hat to your superior knowledge on this machine.

It's a bit lumpy at low revs, but I guess a new filter, plugs and carb balance should sort that, maybe remove the AIS so I can get in there....

Hi, do you still have any parts left?

I'm looking for a center stand with springs & bolts if you have them.