Date: 28-03-24  Time: 15:58 pm

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Messages - Creaky

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Carb Inlet Rubbers
« on: 17 July 2021, 08:31:13 am »
I used silicone on mine too to tidy the bodies up. Worked a treat and no issues.

2
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Puncture prevention/repair - Suggestions please
« on: 15 July 2020, 05:07:59 pm »
Thanks for the responses.

I've bought the AirMan mini compressor as per the link and this arrived today.

Ran a test of it through my battery charge lead but this blew the inline fuse in my charge lead as it's obviously not meant to be used as a power outlet. Replaced fuse and all OK. Tried again using crocodile clips to the battery and all fine. Seems very robust and well thought through. Will fit under the seat but with all the other stuff I carry have added it to my Kriega US10 tank pack.

Not decided on a patch kit yet as I have a new can of tyre weld which the compressor can supplement if the can can't achieve pressure. Patch kit will be useful if tyre weld can't seal any puncture. Bit belt and braces but hopefully will never need any of it!

Thanks again.

3
FZS600 Fazer / Puncture prevention/repair - Suggestions please
« on: 08 July 2020, 09:54:26 am »
Been using Gloop/Slime type product in both front and rear tyres of my bike for the last 3 years without problem but last week noticed the rear was losing pressure quite regularly.
Managed to rotate the wheel through a tray of water and traced the leak to air escaping at the rim.
Took the wheel off and dropped it into my local bike shop for investigation.
The anti-puncture fluid was corroding the alloy wheel internal surface and causing the rim to lose seal. After a wash out and refitting with new valve (valve was corroding as well) and using a rim sealing paste all is now back to normal.
I've now invested in a can of TyreWeld to keep with the bike but am looking to back this up with a repair kit of sticky laces and a mini compressor as a belt and braces approach.
Been looking at the RAC/AA mini compressor for about £15 from Amazon which has mixed reviews.
Be interested to learn what other riders are using before purchasing anything.
Thanks in advance for any info.

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Chain advice
« on: 15 June 2020, 10:33:41 pm »
When I had to change my chain around this mileage my dealer pulled my old chain away from the rear sprocket to check for wear. He was able to lift it quite a distance and determined it was too worn.

When fitting the new one he used just one jointing link.

5
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clutch cable adjustment - sprocket end
« on: 15 June 2020, 10:27:44 pm »
Thank you all for the fast responses and advice.

I added another dose of penetrating oil tonight and then tried the 6 sided socket and it then released!

I took off the locknut and added some light oil to the threads, replaced and carried out the adjustment using a screwdriver through the socket and then finally adjusted at the lever.

All seems fine now. Hoping to get out and try it properly on the road tomorrow.

Thanks once again. 👍

6
FZS600 Fazer / Clutch cable adjustment - sprocket end
« on: 14 June 2020, 07:53:57 pm »






Hi

I run a 2001 Fazer FZS600.

Just been trying to adjust the clutch cable via the front sprocket cover access as the handlebar adjuster is at the end of its travel.

The locknut holding the adjuster screw is incredibly tight and I'm wary of damaging anything. I've added a dose of penetrating oil but am I correct in thinking that the screw adjuster should be held whilst undoing the locknut rather than just weighing in with a 12mm socket and bar? Haynes manual only mentions the offset/crank spanner. Experimentally trying the locknut without holding the adjuster screw and I can feel resistance from the internal spring.

Any tips on loosening the locknut without causing damage, please?

Thanks in advance.
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7
FZ6 / Fazer / Clutch cable adjustment - sprocket end
« on: 14 June 2020, 05:56:02 pm »

Just re-posted this in the FZS600 section after realising I'd posted it in the wrong place! Apologies.

Hi


I run a 2001 Fazer FZS600.



Just been trying to adjust the clutch cable via the front sprocket cover access as the handlebar adjuster is at the end of its travel.


The locknut holding the adjuster screw is incredibly tight and I'm wary of damaging anything. I've added a dose of penetrating oil but am I correct in thinking that the screw adjuster should be held whilst undoing the locknut rather than just weighing in with a 12mm socket and bar? Haynes manual only mentions the offset/crank spanner. Experimentally trying the locknut without holding the adjuster screw and I can feel resistance from the internal spring.


Any tips on loosening the locknut without causing damage, please?


Thanks in advance.

8
General / Re: what did you do with your fazer today ?
« on: 18 February 2020, 09:56:20 pm »
Just fitted the same battery to my Fazer over Christmas  Much stronger starting now. Think I paid £69 from Halfords who had it in stock.

9
FZ6 / Fazer / Re: Tank bag
« on: 23 May 2018, 08:44:47 pm »
Kriega

10
General / Re: Earplugs
« on: 07 May 2018, 08:38:02 pm »
I've been happy with my pin lock ear plugs. They do supply 2 sizes of plug so you can choose the best fit for your ear canal and have a short side stalk to aid removal. Easy to wash and I store them in a clean handkerchief when I'm off the bike rather than the supplied holder which is a bit too fiddly for my liking.

11
General / Re: Tool storage
« on: 07 April 2018, 09:13:41 pm »
I use a fabric pencil case under the seat of my Fazer.

12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: down pipes
« on: 15 March 2018, 01:26:16 am »
Sorry can't post link as away at the moment but this is the item no.

361890173333

Should relate to
Rustins Matt black stove paint 250ml tin which is plenty for the job.

Cheers

13
FZS600 Fazer / Re: down pipes
« on: 14 March 2018, 09:35:45 pm »
I used stove paint on mine from eBay. Works fine.

14
General / Re: what did you do with your fazer today ?
« on: 14 January 2018, 06:10:15 pm »
Nice pics Anquetil and lovely weather!

Took my bike out for an hour or so this morning. Not sunny up here but dry and cold so not wet roads to speak of so bike was still clean after 40 odd miles. Love the way my Fazer simply starts up after a few weeks of non-use and settles into an even tickover ready for the off without any drama. Quick check of chain slack, tyre pressures and oil level and we're ready.

15
General / Re: Loud pipes and earplugs
« on: 14 January 2018, 06:05:32 pm »
I ride a 2001 Fazer 600 with a standard exhaust and use the Pinlock earplugs on every ride because of wind noise. I also find that using 2 or 3 Buffs around my neck to fill the gap up to the helmet chin line also cuts out a lot of wind aggravation.

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: U-lock or Disc lock?
« on: 18 September 2017, 08:19:12 pm »
As a disc lock reminder: Cut a short piece of electrical flex and strip out the inner cables leaving just the outer housing. Slide this over your dic lock key. When parking the bike transfer the flex cover to your ignition key and use the disc lock key. When you return to the bike you have to remove the flex cover from your ignition key which should remind you to use the disc lock key!

17
FZS600 Fazer / Re: HID projector wiring
« on: 18 September 2017, 08:14:26 pm »
Thanks. Request sent.

18
FZS600 Fazer / HID projector wiring
« on: 17 September 2017, 09:57:05 am »
I have a Fazer 600 Year 2001 and have already carried out the headlight mod and upgraded to Osram bulbs.


After investigating the various improvement options I see that HID projectors would be the ultimate upgrade but can find little detail on how successful these may be and how difficult it would be to wire them in. The Retrofitlab kit video is comprehensive but doesn't seem to cover the wiring, plus its quite costly. Has anyone fitted just a single H1 projector HID to the nearside only and retained the standard H4 main beam and can give me any advice? Or does anyone have a link or details to the best way to wire the lights up?


Would appreciate any input.
Thanks in advance

19
General / Re: Handlebar vibration extra damping
« on: 13 August 2017, 07:54:18 pm »
Using the standard bars on my 600 Fazer and found that I was getting problems from vibration through the throttle grip, particularly on longer stretches of constant speed running where 50mph average speed cameras are operating, etc. Left hand grip was fine.

I was considering, carb balancing, foam grips, heavier bar ends, etc. etc. but after a bit of investigation I realised that the throttle tube seemed to have excessive clearance over the inner bar in that you could rattle the throttle at standstill. I whipped off the throttle tube and after cleaning the bar I applied 3 short lengths of electrician's tape running outwards to the end of the bar and spaced equally around the circumference. The throttle tube still cleared and operated fine but without the rattle. I sprayed it with GT85 and reassembled.

Just had a test run for an hour or so and the vibration has disappeared. Result!

20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: gold plate in sprocket cover????
« on: 13 August 2017, 07:47:24 pm »
After owning my bike since June I've just had the sprocket cover off on my 2001 600 Fazer to check what the condition was like behind and I also had to dig out the crud that had built up over the years. Got it all clean, checked the sprocket nut which is 9mm deep which was all secure and then tackled the gasket issue.

Wasn't keen on buying and waiting for a new gasket each time I remove the cover as I see it as a routine operation to keep things in good order. I've applied a thin layer of black silicone to the outer cover edges and smoothed this out to make what I hope will be a permanently attached reusable seal. I let it dry overnight and then applied a smear of grease to the opposite face on the bike and refitted.

My theory is that the grease will prevent the silicone attaching itself to the bike and enable it to detach without problem during my future checks. I've heard of folk using grease between paper gaskets to enable them to be reused so hopefully the plan will work!

My silicone bead is thicker than the original gasket so I was concerned that it may affect the clutch pushrod operation but a after a test run this afternoon all seems fine.

21
FZS600 Fazer / Re: FZS600 2001 - Headlight disassembly and cleaning
« on: 02 July 2017, 05:14:46 pm »
I've broken the post to avoid losing all my copy if the computer glitches!

After reassembly of the whole unit I again warmed it thoroughly with the heat gun and sat moulding it all back to shape until it cooled. Rather than adding more sealant I simply wrapped and sealed the edges completely with black insulation tape which moulds to the perimeter quite nicely when applied under tension.

The offside light mod I then wanted got try and yesterday bought a H4 connector from Halfords for about £3.50. Rather than use the connector I removed one of the connectors, carefully prised it open to release the short wire supplied and then refitted a longer length of black cable which I fed into the wiring box under the tank to connect up to the green wire which is in a black connector on my bike. I had a few female connectors of the correct size already in my toolbox so was able to crimp this to the new black wire and insert it into the unused outlet of the black connector to mate up with the green connector as a complete unit. It took a couple of attempts and a few tweaks of the female connector but it did work and now I have 2 dipped beams!

It has definitely got a brighter look with the cleaned reflectors so will be interested to see how it works in the dark.

Thanks to everyone on the forum who has posted information on this topic in the past. Very helpful and I hope my summary will assist others in the future.

Cheers
David

22
FZS600 Fazer / Re: FZS600 2001 - Headlight disassembly and cleaning
« on: 02 July 2017, 05:06:42 pm »
Just an update on this. After struggling to split the headlight last night and attempting to clean the interior via the lamp access holes and failing miserably I left it alone and approached it fresh this morning after doing a bit more internet research. I was wary of placing the whole unit in the oven for fear of melting it so removed it completely from the bike and set to again with the heat gun.
This time I warmed the unit more evenly as it was easier to access off the bike and for much longer - at least 10 minutes going around and around to really soften the mastic. Wearing gloves I was then able to prise it apart almost straight away giving me complete access to the interior. I stripped this completely and cleaned both reflectors and the black interior surround with a damp microfibre as there was quite a film of dusty muck before polishing it up with a bit of Mr. Sheen and a dry microfibre. I kept the polish off the reflectors but cleaned both lenses with a spot of Autoglym.
The dipped beam shroud on the H1 lamp was loose and upon investigation it appeared that one of the supporting posts that it sits on had worn/broken away over time allowing it to rattle about. I removed it by carefully bending the metal tabs at the rear, cleaned it and then reset it by bending the tab over the broken section in a closer manner to tighten it all back up. These tabs are quite soft and won't stand much bending so be careful if you try the same.
After a clean the whole unit looked a lot sharper. Above the H1 lamp the reflector silvering was flaking so I removed all the loose bits before reassembly. The light flow seems to be sideways rather than above so I don't think the beam pattern will be any worse but I have yet to ride the bike in the dark so all a new experience for me.

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: FZS600 2001 - Headlight disassembly and cleaning
« on: 02 July 2017, 01:51:50 pm »
I know you've got it in your headline on this occasion, but change your profile so we can clearly see which bike model you own so we can help much easier in the future.  :thumbup


Thanks. Have updated.

24
FZS600 Fazer / FZS600 2001 - Headlight disassembly and cleaning
« on: 01 July 2017, 08:10:23 pm »
Hi all


I'm trying to sort out my headlights on my new to me Fazer which I picked up a fe weeks ago.


I want to carry out the second light mod but beforehand clean up the lens interiors and reflectors.


I understood that after removing the fairing it would be possible to heat up the headlight enclosure and prise off the lens housing but I'm not seeing any movement after a bit of work with a heat gun and trim removal tool trying to work it off. The mastic seal is softening but nothing else.


Has anyone else done this and can perhaps give me a few pointers?


Appreciate any advice.


Many thanks
David

25
Introduction / New member from Notts
« on: 11 June 2017, 09:05:19 pm »
Hello everyone
Just to introduce myself as a new member to the forum.
Been considering a Fazer for some weeks now after selling my Thruxton at the beginning of the year.
Last weekend, saw a new listing on eBay for a 2001 model in the right colour and was drawn by the very clean condition.
Listed by a dealer that had sold the bike from new, then to its second owner after it was traded in the first time amd carried out most of the maintenance for both riders.
Rang up and did the deal and then my son drove me the 150 miles to Wales so that I could ride it home.
Very pleased with the bike so far. Love the practicality of the older Jap bikes after owning a Ninja 600 and an SV650 in recent years. Nice to have a bike that the owners manual and design encourages you to work on and maintain!
Forks were the worst part of the bike as they were suffering from lacquer corrosion so I set to and after rubbing them down with wire wool, rattle canned them with primer, silver wheel gloss and lacquer from Halfords. Really pleased with the result.
New tyres already on the bike and as the front brake pistons were a bit gummed up I've stripped and cleaned everything as a precaution.
Here she is:



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