Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: TOM VR46 on 21 September 2019, 03:10:46 pm
-
This is only way I can describe this. Any gear when applying throttle, all I can hear and slightly feel is CLUNK :rolleyes , CLUNK :rolleyes ,CLUNK !! :rolleyes :eek :rolleyes :rolleyes !. Clutch in and free wheel - no clunk. The clunk is getting slowly louder, don't know how long it would last before Clunk goes to Crunch !!. When just sitting ticking over all is ok, just when you are moving creates the Clunk.
Any ideas on where to start looking welcome and will be big help. My problem too, is time, if this is strip engine, could be long fix.
Oh, if just sitting and first gear, front brake on, slowly let clutch out , will pull no problems with no Clunk, only when moving does the clunk start.
Peeved as it great day for run. :'( :'( .
Oh, 2001 FZS 600 with just over 64 thousand on clock.
-
That'd be the front sprocket wear. The teeth have hooked and the chain clunks as it drops into the teeth. Would always recommend replacing both sprockets and the chain at the same time.
You can alleviate the problem by careful adjustment of the chain but replacement is the right way to go.
Fwiw I recommend and use myself, DID HD gold X-ring chain and renthal sprockets. Keep away from those kits with JT sprockets in, they wear too quickly and take the chain with them. I get around 40k-45k from my chain and sprockets.
-
:agree most likely worn front sprocket/chain.
No pressure on it when clutch pulled in.
I find changing the front sprocket every 10 to 12000 miles helps the life of the my chains.Remember front sprocket wears 3 times faster than the rear
-
Thanks for replies. Had been thinking of new chain and sprockets. I changed the front sprocket last year and took it down to 15th and also changed the sprocket nut too. Ive no idea what age chain is , as I never got told that when I bought it. I do keep it well lubed as bike is use the bike weekly. Will have a look tomorrow and see how chain is running over front sprocket. Hope that's the solution. Thanks again.
-
Put the bike on the centre stand and try and pull the chain off the rear sprocket, anymore than 5mm and your chain is heading for replacement. See file attached
-
If it's the sprocket or sticking chain links then you must be feeling it through your left footrest?
-
I had a chain which broke one of its link plates on the inside of the run. That gave a regular clunk and it took me ages to find the cause because it was so hard to see the crack. Must have done a thousand more miles before I spotted it… amazed the thing didn’t let go.
-
Well I tried to reply but something went wrong. I had a look and took pic of sprocket. Will try and attach before I go on.
-
That looks quite hooked and needs to be replaced.
-
oops :rolleyes something went wrong again. Ive heard about pulling chain at the rear sprocket but never tried it. Will give that a try tomorrow and see what happens. Ive put old sprocket on again and the chain seemed to run over it a bit smoother. Again see how that goes tomorrow.
And yep you can feel it through the foot rest. The louder the clunk the more you can feel it. It starts from 1st and through to 6th. Most noticeable at low speeds in higher gear.
Ive also had a wee look and ive had bike about 2 years and done around 10000 miles in that time. So maybe time for new chain and sprockets, as I have no idea when they were last changed.
Will give it a wee test run tomorrow to see what the difference is in the sprockets.
Thanks again for replies :) and I hope this one posts. Will let you know what happens tomorrow.
-
If you're feeling it through the footpeg it's most likely a sticky chain link.
Sprocket is a bit worn, but not that bad.
Look at the lower level of the chain, a sticky link will be at an angle, rather than horizontal.
-
That sprocket is focced.
-
All needs changing whatever way you look at it :lol
-
:) Well as I said I put old sprocket on last night and,,,,, no Clunk today :) . But the old sprocket has signs of hooking on it too.
Was a bit worried as it started to clunk quickly. But as I said was thinking of changing chain and sprockets. Going to be costly month as need new rear tyre, front brake is close to edge, and now chain and sprockets. Wee bit of overtime needed.
Thanks for pointing straight to sprocket. ;) . Help well appreciated.
Oh, and tried pulling chain at rear sprocket. And it does pull out :o , probably about 3mm without much effort.
Well time for coffee and thanks again.
-
I had the same symptoms and the sprockets were not in bad shape but it was the chain that had a tight spot. I changed both sprockets anyway along with the chain,its its great not having the clunk after putting up with it for too long.
-
:) Well as I said I put old sprocket on last night and,,,,, no Clunk today :) . But the old sprocket has signs of hooking on it too.
Was a bit worried as it started to clunk quickly. But as I said was thinking of changing chain and sprockets. Going to be costly month as need new rear tyre, front brake is close to edge, and now chain and sprockets. Wee bit of overtime needed.
Thanks for pointing straight to sprocket. ;) . Help well appreciated.
Oh, and tried pulling chain at rear sprocket. And it does pull out :o , probably about 3mm without much effort.
Well time for coffee and thanks again.
It is best to set the chain to the tightest position half way along the swinging arm, this way you are pulling the most worn section of the chain from the sprocket.
In any case a new set of sprockets and chain are needed.
-
Yep , new chain and sprockets on shopping list. Had a look today for old riveting tool I once had, cant find it :\ :\ , so that could be on list too. Was nice not hearing and feeling that noise today. Finished work at 5am on Sat morning and was wondering if I was going to make it home. And yep that's the way I adjust the chain, trying to find tightest spot first. And on paddock stand. Tried it once as it say somewhere in manual to have the bike on side stand,,,, no way could I figure out how you could set the chain this way. :rolleyes :rolleyes .
-
Easiest way to adjust the chain on the Fzs600 is to find the tight spot and at a point under the end of the rubber swinging arm protector, push the chain up and it should just touch the rubber, if it doesn't it's to tight.
-
Easiest way to adjust the chain on the Fzs600 is to find the tight spot and at a point under the end of the rubber swinging arm protector, push the chain up and it should just touch the rubber, if it doesn't it's to tight.
You do that on the side stand or centre stand?
-
Centre stand
-
My change is all here - be warned 6 pages http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,25205.125.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,25205.125.html)
-
I'm now thinking this is the issue I have with my bike. Only when cold does it do it. First couple of junctions I get the clunk as I set off. Don't notice it in any other gear but then the noise maybe drowns it out.
She's a 2001 and just clocked up 10,000 miles. Would the front sprocket be worn this quick?
-
Short answer, Yes.
-
Precise and to the point. Like it.
What's the longer term diagnosis of running it like this. To be fair iit' been like it 6 months already.
Will it last a few more miles until I lay her up over winter and then I'll fit new chain and sprocket? I take it I'm risking the chain snagging and totally screwing the sprocket?
-
Precise and to the point. Like it.
What's the longer term diagnosis of running it like this. To be fair iit' been like it 6 months already.
Will it last a few more miles until I lay her up over winter and then I'll fit new chain and sprocket? I take it I'm risking the chain snagging and totally screwing the sprocket?
Or if it is because of a badly seised couple of links then you could be risking a snapped chain. I tried to ignore mine for as long as I could but couldn't really relax and enjoy my rides. If you are only slow commuting then you may decide to take a risk.
-
I'm now thinking this is the issue I have with my bike. Only when cold does it do it. First couple of junctions I get the clunk as I set off. Don't notice it in any other gear but then the noise maybe drowns it out.
She's a 2001 and just clocked up 10,000 miles. Would the front sprocket be worn this quick?
If you mean it clunks between gears, or as you put it into gear, thats not the same issue. Thats chain tension.
-
Yep Mr sharp, followed your change when you were doing it and theres some good links in there too :) . Have been looking at some adds but haven't made up mind on which way to go yet :rolleyes . Started my shopping with the easiest option , new rear tyre, Pilot Road 4. ;)
Was also looking at front brake discs and got a big shock :eek , they aren't cheep. And again there are so many options . Think ill be doing a bit more research on these before I choose.
-
I'm now thinking this is the issue I have with my bike. Only when cold does it do it. First couple of junctions I get the clunk as I set off. Don't notice it in any other gear but then the noise maybe drowns it out.
She's a 2001 and just clocked up 10,000 miles. Would the front sprocket be worn this quick?
If you mean it clunks between gears, or as you put it into gear, thats not the same issue. Thats chain tension.
Might just change the chain and sprocket. That'll sort it either way. Any recommendations on both?
-
Middy have a look at fazersharp link to his change . It will give you a good place to start deciding what you want for your bike. Im still thinking about what I want. I do like the idea of these noise reduction sprockets.
-
Bike torque Racing https://www.biketorqueracing.co.uk/buy/ognibene-trofeo-ognibene-silent-sprocket/361991r15.htm#eq1 (https://www.biketorqueracing.co.uk/buy/ognibene-trofeo-ognibene-silent-sprocket/361991r15.htm#eq1)
My son had it on his bike and lasted the same as any other sprocket he had.
JT sprockets do them now also http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTF513RB/ (http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTF513RB/)
-
Just wee update. Fitted new tyre at weekend :) . Today new chain and sprocket arrived with wee surprise. After much head scratching :rolleyes over chain and sprocket sets I decided to just go for what to me was a normal choice, nothing fancy, - Yamaha FZS600 Fazer 1998 to 2003 Silver X-Ring JT Chain & JT Sprocket Kit Set[font=] - off ebay. I was going to order silent front sprocket too but forgot to add to order, so left it off. But today opened the box and set ,,, comes with JTF513.15RB rubber dampened front sprocket. So chuffed with that :) . [/font]
[font=]Now just waiting on new riveting tool as I couldn't find my old one. Hopefully it will be here this week.[/font]
-
Not sure if the "silent" front sprocket makes any difference but the manufacturer tells me it does so I went for it on the front as that is what was OEM but I did not bother with the back silent one.
-
ahh, still trying to attach pic.
-
Well nothing is going right today. :'( . The pic should have been in the post, but instead you get two pics , no post. So as you can see I have broke one of the pins. :eek . All was going well until I decided to give that one another quarter of a turn,,,,,,, and I don't know why. So now waiting on new joining link. Hope this works. :rolleyes
-
What tool are you using to flare the rivet? From the picture, you went off centre which is usually caused by the riveter not being set up incorrectly. General the flare should be not be less than .3mm or more than .6mm of the thickness of the rivet. I generally go for .5mm measured with a vernier to be sure.
-
Sorry the pic isn't the best. Ive got just a basic flaring tool of ebay. But the flare part of the set didn't seem to good so I made a part which gave a little bit more of a spread to the pin. The part that came with the set seemed as if it would have been apply direct pressure without any flare. I do have a Vernier but the display is working properly so I cant say how much im flaring the pin but it wasn't a lot. If I had have stopped and not gone that little bit more it looked ok. But I do have a habit of just a wee touch more, and this is the usual result. Not as bad as when I was younger but is still snap things every now and again. But ill know the next time, which will probably be next weekend.
-
Had a mate back in the 60's, who had a bad habit of overdoing it with spanners. We called him Screech :lol .
-
Sorry the pic isn't the best. Ive got just a basic flaring tool of ebay. But the flare part of the set didn't seem to good so I made a part which gave a little bit more of a spread to the pin. The part that came with the set seemed as if it would have been apply direct pressure without any flare. I do have a Vernier but the display is working properly so I cant say how much im flaring the pin but it wasn't a lot. If I had have stopped and not gone that little bit more it looked ok. But I do have a habit of just a wee touch more, and this is the usual result. Not as bad as when I was younger but is still snap things every now and again. But ill know the next time, which will probably be next weekend.
What was the tool.
I used this one youtube.com/watch?v=skX2GhrB2Oc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skX2GhrB2Oc#)
STUPID VID WONT LINK, copy and paste this youtube.com/watch?v=skX2GhrB2Oc (http://foc-u.co.uk/youtube.com/watch?v=skX2GhrB2Oc) and add the www. (http://www.By)Its by Afam Although I did think afterwards that the pin that does the pressing into the hole looked a little worn after I had done the two link pins. Not sure if it would do such the same good job if used again.
-
Is this the type you have?
(https://www.revzilla.com/product_images/0064/7895/motion_pro_chain_breaker_riveting_tool_750x750.jpg)
-
It was the same as unfazed. But, as in unfazed pic , the flare pin , you can see clearly the point that would enter the pin on link to be flared.
The set I got , if you had taken pic at same angle as in unfazed pic , you would not have seen as much of the point. When I held it up to the link to be flared , the point was in the hollow and flush with the face, this to me would not have done any flaring.
So, after a bit of head scratching and looking through old tools I found a small punch , similar to tool one in the picture. A little bit of work and it looked ok. The point was same size as the hollow in link , but has more of an angle to flare.
The thing I got wrong was just the pressure, because you are flaring to such a small degree, it would have been ok if I had not gone for the last wee tweek on it. My fault :\
But the tool in unfazed pic looks a lot better than the one I got.
-
Just a wee update. Decided to buy another set of [font=]Vernier Calipers, just cheep set to see what I had done. [/font]
[font=]So on new link , pins measure 5.2mm.[/font]
[font='verdana,arial,helvetica,sans-serif']On the riveted pin links on chain, roughly 5.6 , 5.7 mm.[/font]
[font='verdana,arial,helvetica,sans-serif']So going by unfazed measurements the riveted pins are about 0.5 more than the new link.[/font]
[font='verdana,arial,helvetica,sans-serif']Well ,,, I was well above that ,, by atleast 1.0mm . OOps too much. [/font]
[font='verdana,arial,helvetica,sans-serif']So no time just now (work) , will do job again at weekend , Taking a little bit more care.[/font]
-
Where are you based? I don't mind popping over to give advice/help out /bring my tool if you're within 100 miles of me and the rain ain't torrential.
-
Where are you based? I don't mind popping over to give advice/help out /bring my tool if you're within 100 miles of me and the reason ain't torrential.
Any excuse for a spin :lol :woot
-
Hell, I do a hundred miles every day just for work, that's not a ride, that's popping to the shops.
BTW let me know by 1430 so I can bring my tool home from the workshop.
-
When I did mine I think I remember that the pins were already very slightly wider than the holes in the plates, or at least the same size which is why you have to use the tool to force press the plate over the pins. The flareing of the pins that is needed is almost unmeasurable. I still don't trust it and cant help myself in checking that the plate is in place before a ride.
-
There has been a chart linked on the forum somewhere, that gives the expected expansion of soft links for all DID chain sizes. A rule of thumb is •5mm.
-
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,23870.msg276721.html#msg276721 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,23870.msg276721.html#msg276721)
-
:) Happy days. New link on today and all seems ok. Took a bit more time and flared pins to 5.7 which is .5 larger . Havent been out to see how new chain feels yet. Hopefully out tomorrow for wee spin. Sounded a lot smoother just spinning it on paddock stand. ;) Thanks for pointing out the small increase in pin when flaring , without that I would have probably broke a few more links.
-
When I ordered my set it was going to come with a littl can of lube so I asked to swap the lube for and extra link in case I messed up with the firs one.