Bikes, Hints'n'Tips > Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner

Fazer 1000 Suspension woes and more

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Dynspud:
I'm 100% with Ogri on the MCT thing.
He took me down there to get mine done and it was just in time apparently as the sludge was indeed grinding the inner walls away.


New oil, bushes and springs replaced, together with suspension settings set, all as recommended by Darren at MCT, as he has done dozens of Gen 1 thous, and my bike now handles superbly.
Money well spent.

unfazed:
I agree with the sludge build up issue, completely dismantled the forks on the 600 and 1000 early this year as it had not been done for about 5 years. Took a fair amount of time to clean out the internals of the 1000 especially. When I out it all back together the settings I had on the 1000 just did not work even with the same oil. Took a while to get it right again. Especially trying to dial out the biggest issue fault with the standard bike, runing wide out of corners

The standard 1000 front fork springs are way to soft and this is the first port of call to sort out. Whether you go progressive or linear is dependent on your riding,  2 up progressive, always on your own linear. In general it is a matter of personal choice.

Tim270:
Cheers for the replies fellas.


Thanks for the settings Unfazed, I was around those already as I think that feels the best with how it is.



Yep I changed the fork Oil (5w) when I got it, it was fairly old but not the worst ive seen. I need it for a stint in euope in about a months time, by the replies I think I will go straight to fully splitting them with new bushings then.


How hard is the damper rod on to remove on these, ive diy'd a tool before on simpler forks but this looks a bit more complicated inside.


If lack of oil changes causes internal wear im wondering if my forks have already been damaged then. I noticed this too when I was changing the oil.


https://puu.sh/DH7dJ.jpg


Roughly how much did it cost for a rebuild from MCT? Spings, new hardware etc.


The main problem is still a constant juddering and bucking through the bars, even on fairly smooth tarmac. Its not that the settings are a little soft/firm, it just feels like something is fundamentally wrong/broken on them.

ogri48:
the last one I had done was the cb1300 last year, a good clean, some new bits(slides and bushes), fresh oil, new fork seals, new springs £440. Not cheap but it transforms the bike. A thorough clean out is essential. the oil drains out ok but leaves all the bad shite inside mate.

unfazed:

--- Quote from: Tim270 on 29 July 2019, 07:46:37 pm ---Cheers for the replies fellas.
Thanks for the settings Unfazed, I was around those already as I think that feels the best with how it is.
Yep I changed the fork Oil (5w) when I got it, it was fairly old but not the worst ive seen. I need it for a stint in euope in about a months time, by the replies I think I will go straight to fully splitting them with new bushings then.
How hard is the damper rod on to remove on these, ive diy'd a tool before on simpler forks but this looks a bit more complicated inside.
If lack of oil changes causes internal wear im wondering if my forks have already been damaged then. I noticed this too when I was changing the oil.
https://puu.sh/DH7dJ.jpg
Roughly how much did it cost for a rebuild from MCT? Spings, new hardware etc.
The main problem is still a constant juddering and bucking through the bars, even on fairly smooth tarmac. Its not that the settings are a little soft/firm, it just feels like something is fundamentally wrong/broken on them.

--- End quote ---
Before you start write down the number of clicks back from full hard you have set on the rebound adjuster.
The damper rod is easy to remove, but needs a 26mm socket, It does not require much to hold in in place while loosening the bottom bolt. I used a 3/8 drive 26mm socket duct taped to a straight length of chrome vacuum cleaner pipe. Held it by hand with nitrile gloves on.  Same putting it back in, getting everything to line up was the slow part.Follow the instruction on the Haynes manual which are very good.
Wrap the threads of the upper damper rod with a split piece of petrol pipe and hold it with a vice grip to undo the nut all the rest is easy enough.
Note: Before refitting the rebound adjuster; Set the rebound adjuster half way on its adjustments, it has 42 clicks when of the forks, but only 21 are used from full hard to full soft.
When it is all back together wind the adjuster to full hard and back it off to your settings. Now you can be sure the adjuster is set to full hard not the end of adjustment before full hard is met. That ensures that both dampers are equal. Many put the adjusters back as they come off, but that can end up with both sides different and almost impossible to set the rebound correctly.

Before You strip the forks, check the following:1. The bearings are not worn. (Check this with the calipers off the discs and tied up)
2. The rim is straight
3. The tyre is on straight4. The wheel is balanced5. Headrace bearing are not tight or notched

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