Date: 29-03-24  Time: 15:54 pm

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Freza

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7
1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Plastic carburetor intake valve
« on: 13 October 2022, 04:09:47 pm »
Asked a several shops, including Fowlers.
Nobody can tell for sure...
Some shops have listed 112 as fit for all carburetor Fazers.
One of them said it should fit, another one said if it's a different part number, they're different.

I don't know what else to do. I've sent an email directly to Yamaha Japan in hope they'll even bother to answer...

2
FZS600 Fazer / Plastic carburetor intake valve
« on: 12 October 2022, 02:16:45 pm »
Hi,


I need to change these plastic intake valves, on picture number 19: http://yampart.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/YAMAHA-FAZER-FZS-600-CARBURETTOR-CARB-PARTS-DIAGRAM-YAMPART.COM-Copy.jpg


So far I've found them under parts no. 5DM-14113 and 5DM-14112.


112 are somewhat available to buy new, but 113 are not.


112 are supposedly from 1998-1999 models, and 113 from redesign.


Does anyone know if 112 will fit in model 2003? Have they changed anything in this department with redesign model?
I'm not sure if I can order 112s...

3
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Complete new front fairing?
« on: 12 September 2020, 12:57:13 pm »
The father paid for factory new, already painted front fairing, so fortunately I don't need to worry about that. Thanks though.

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Complete new front fairing?
« on: 11 September 2020, 05:17:08 pm »
Boxeye or Foxeye fairing?
If it's a Foxeye, I think the FZS100 fairing could be made to fit with modifications?If it's a Boxeye, does the fairing need to be undamaged or just complete? I have a Boxeye front in the garage but big frankenstein splits - would need a fair bit of repair.

2003 foxeye.
The fairing cannot be repaired because all the hooks are broken as well as the mini frame...

5
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Complete new front fairing?
« on: 10 September 2020, 04:38:46 pm »
Thanks for the link.
Just been to the local Yamaha dealership and parents were fair enough to pay for all the original parts immediately, so I could say I was lucky because kid didn't have any insurance on his bicycle.

Total cost ~735 GBP.

I paid for the new right mirror from my own pocket, because the difference would be too visible. They were 17 years old after all.

6
FZS600 Fazer / Complete new front fairing?
« on: 09 September 2020, 09:15:27 pm »
Hi,

Had a smallish accident this morning, for the first time in 23 years of riding bikes.

Kid went through a zebra crossing at full speed on his bicycle, not stopping to look left or right. I did what I best could and thanks to my reaction I only hit his rear bicycle wheel, but also caught a part of his rucksack and him with my fairing, which sent him spinning for 180 degrees. Landed on the tarmac with bruises and shock, but nothing serious.

I managed to stay on the bike, however my front fairing took a beating, broke and left side got pushed inside. Mountings for the fairing are all broken (mounting frame included). Inner black plastics are both warped. The left mirror is done too.

I'm looking to buy a complete new front fairing with frame, because this one cannot be patched.

Looked through Wemoto, but they don't have any. Ebay has partial fairing parts only, I need everything that goes in front except for the lights, instruments and blinkers.

Any clue where I might find that?

Thanks

7
Nothing wrong with the springs, set them to 25mm static sag to get as close to 35mm laden as possible. Now check the oil level in the forks, ideally 140mm for stiffer springs. Check with springs out and forks fully compressed.Do you know what weight oil the mechanic used? Removing the springs will result in a slight drop in oil. Try to allow as much as possible to drain off the springs back into the forks as possible.


I think he used 10W. Or 15W. Don't know, I'd need to ask him about that.
Regarding the oil level, he followed kebab's guide:


Quote
13. Once in place, pour about 250-300ml of your fork oil in. What weight to go for? Racetech mention ether 15W or 20W for the TRX forks. I'm about 73kgs so went with the lighter 15W oil. Now pump fork up & down (slowly, about 15 times) and enjoy the gurgling noises.14. Now add remaining oil. How much in total? Well, I have again gone with data similar to the TRX. Their forks use 483ml per leg (early Fazer 475ml). The emulators displace volume, but exactly how much is unknown. Most TRX owners use about 440ml per leg, so just over 40ml less than standard. For the Fazer, I have started with 430ml - 45 less than standard. I realise that Fazer fork oil height is usually a critical setup factor, but the introduction of the emulators changes all this. Besides with no one else having tried this I had to start somewhere……


How do I set static or laden sag ?
Just with preload ?

9
At the back is newly mounted Nitron R1 shock with standard dogbones: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,23519.msg301335.html#msg301335

10
Ok, did the test and here's the results: https://imgur.com/a/1VK3iM5

The ride now, after loosening the preload, is night and day difference, much plusher and comfier.
Haven't had a chance to ride it harder to see if it still floats under acceleration...

11
Eh, I don't really know :/
I'll try your advices.

12
Hi,

The oil added was 10W I think, and honestly don't know if he cut down the spacers. Since he was following your guide, and he's a pretty smart guy (did emulator mods before mine), I'd bet he did.
Yes, my forks have preload adjustment which I'll need to loosen up and see if the harshness is gone (could probably be the solution), but still my main problem is not so much the harshness as floaty feel when going fast over longer hollows. Feels as if they're too soft in the upper end (when fully extended)...can't describe better than that, sorry.

13
unfortunately this will be a trial and error exercise.   I had a similar issue with the FZS1000 and  decreasing the compression solved it, but the compression adjusters on the FZS100 are easier to get at than yours.
Backing off the compression in your case is probably a fork strip job unless there is some tool to adjust it with the springs out.


Decreasing compression should eliminate fork play? Are you sure? I always thought that increasing compression would stiffen it and limit its motion, reducing the possibility to play, especially when under acceleration (but I don't actually understand what compression really does).
It is a strip job but not so difficult.

14
A few months ago, my mechanic installed the original Racetech emulator and Ohlins linear springs, following kebab19's guide.


Can't remember the details right now, but I think it set compression conservatively at 2-3 turns.


I've been riding the bike since, and the front end feels pretty harsh over bumps, but more importantly, when going faster over longer depressions in tarmac, it doesn't feel as planted. As if it floats too much, especially when forks are fully extended (under acceleration).
On my route home, there's a nice fast 3-lane curvy road going uphill, but it's plagued with depressions in tarmac (if that's the right expression, pardon my english).
So when going fast on that road + leaning, the front end plays too much and makes me uneasy. Yet, when coming off that road and slowing down, then going over harsh bumps, it puts a lot of stress on my arms.


Now, I must admit I don't quite get what which settings exactly do, and how to tweak them to remedy this problem.

I need to: a) lower the harshness and b) get rid of the fork play when under acceleration.

Do I increase or decrease rebound? Or compression? Or preload? It is now preloaded a bit (I gave them a few turns).

Can someone enlighten me please... thanks

15
FZS600 Fazer / Re: What are my rear shock options ?
« on: 06 August 2019, 03:10:28 pm »
So, after a while I went with Nitron R1 shock.
Came this morning...it looks great.

Been exchanging emails with their sales rep since I couldn't decide between "road" and "road and track" options, so he suggested they create a custom spring for me that will provide firm handling when riding fast, but won't sacrifice comfort for daily commuting.
Big props to them for that.

Can't wait to install it in ~2 weeks.
Will post some opinions after that.


Pics:


 

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Stock grips measures ?
« on: 25 July 2019, 09:24:58 am »
I'm nowhere near my bike but yes, good idea, I'll have someone take measure.

17
FZS600 Fazer / Stock grips measures ?
« on: 24 July 2019, 01:00:49 pm »
Hello, does anyone know measures of stock grips?
I need to order the new ones, but don't know the diameter and length.


I guess the diameter is 22/25.4mm, but length ?

18
FZS600 Fazer / Re: What are my rear shock options ?
« on: 31 May 2019, 02:46:15 pm »
Does anyone know what's the difference between these 3 options when ordering Nitron R1 shock?
I drive fast on country roads, so maybe road+track ?





20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: What would you replace your FZS600 with?
« on: 14 May 2018, 01:07:05 pm »
I tried hard to find a worthy replacement for my 2003 FZS600, but the verdict is - there isn't any.
No other bike so perfectly blends performance, comfort, carb character, awesome brakes, underseat storage, revvy powerful engine, pure joy to ride and great looks (even after 15 years) like Fazer.

21
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacement cooling pipes
« on: 14 May 2018, 12:54:37 pm »
Update:
For now the problem is solved, I've found some replacement pipes from a local guy here and installed them.
They're used but in good shape.
Cleaned the system 3 times, a lot of rust got out.
For now it's not leaking, we'll see in the future.

22
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted: In urgent need of cooling pipes
« on: 14 May 2018, 12:52:20 pm »
For now the problem is solved, thanks everybody, especially bikemad.

23
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted: In urgent need of cooling pipes
« on: 24 April 2018, 12:11:32 pm »
All fazers have it, the Carburetors are heated by flowing coolant through the carburetors (different circuit to fuel and air) to prevent what is called Carburetor Icing in cold damp weather, which would effect the cold running at idle to 1/2 throttle.
It happens when there is damp cold air (below 4C) and the water vapor freezes going through the carburetors.
If you look closely at the front upper of the carbs on both sides you will see black hoses attached to the outer two.
They go to the rear right side radiator (Small pipe) on the  and thermostat housing under the tank. :thumbup


Nice, I'll have him check that as well.

24
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted: In urgent need of cooling pipes
« on: 23 April 2018, 11:04:16 pm »
What's a carb heater and how do I know if I have it, or if it's broken ?

25
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted: In urgent need of cooling pipes
« on: 22 April 2018, 09:44:40 pm »

Looks more like a hose leak, did you remove the larger hose to check it?



I did nothing, the mechanic was working on it. I'll tell him to make sure it's not the hoses, but those pipes are rotten anyways...




If they are just pinholes, then chemical metal is your friend.



Not sure this can be fixed by that.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7