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Messages - characticus
26
« on: 16 August 2017, 03:49:28 pm »
"So yours wont start with side stand down in gear clutch in ??" - that's correct. Not only will it not start, engine will cut out if bike put into gear with sidestand down - clutch of course is "in" when you drop it into gear. As BBrown says its a safety feature on all modern bikes.
27
« on: 16 August 2017, 02:53:01 pm »
In neutral fzs1000 starts with sidestand down without touching the clutch (at least mine does and has done from new). Will cut out if put into gear with sidestand down as you say. Will start only start in gear with sidestand up and clutch in.
28
« on: 15 August 2017, 08:19:14 pm »
Are the disconnected alarm wires at the standard alarm connector? If so there are two pairs that have to be connected (looped). These would be cut and fed into an alarm. One pair inhibits the ignition circuit, the other inhibits the starter circuit. I'd check those first. If those are ok then its onto the relay/diode assembly behind left side panel.
29
« on: 30 March 2017, 11:36:28 am »
PM sent.
30
« on: 12 October 2016, 10:09:18 pm »
With everything connected are you able to probe the voltages at the rectifier connector? If so what do you get between red and black with the engine stopped and with it running? What is the a.c. voltage between the white wires when everything connected with the engine running.
Did you measure the 1.8v with the rectifier disconnected from the battery - not a good idea, you might damage the rectifier.
31
« on: 11 October 2016, 07:50:36 pm »
Sounds a bit on the low side. I assume you are measuring with the rectifier disconnected (you should be). The three voltages should be the same, and up around 50V when you rev the bike to 5000rpm. I'd take the cover off and see if any of the coils look black or burned.
32
« on: 10 October 2016, 09:49:12 pm »
1. Do the dynamic test as recommended by Paul. If you get at least 30v (make sure you use a.c. range on your meter) at fast idle, increasing voltage with revs. You can then more or less assume stator and rotor are ok i.e. the generator is ok.
2. If batteries ok, then its either the rectifier/regulator at fault or the connections between. Can you measure the battery voltage between the red and black wires at the recitifier? The red wire connects to the battery positive and the black wire to ground.
33
« on: 09 October 2016, 05:45:17 pm »
Do you have a multimeter? Check resistance of stator windings. Should be around 0.3 Ohms between each of the three white wires and no continuity (open circuit) between each white wire and ground. If not then change the stator.
34
« on: 22 August 2016, 03:33:55 pm »
PM sent regarding seat.
35
« on: 16 August 2016, 03:25:14 pm »
The Parliament House Hotel - stayed there last year.
36
« on: 12 August 2016, 12:19:32 pm »
I just thought there might be an easy modification to add another terminal, in the correct position, to the neutral light switch and use that to illuminate a bulb on the dash. When the bulb is lit, the bike is in top gear. Is this possible ?
No its not possible to do that without some electronics to detemine if you're in top gear - be much easier just to fit a gear indicator.
37
« on: 31 July 2016, 10:56:51 pm »
Does this help.
38
« on: 31 July 2016, 10:31:47 pm »
I think mine were the same - straight banjos at the calipers, slight angle at the master cylinder. Don't recall any problems fitting them or any tight bends. I can take a photo if you want.
39
« on: 05 July 2016, 08:36:05 pm »
40
« on: 05 June 2016, 09:07:43 pm »
It could be the battery, but even with a duff battery the voltage should be higher at 5k rpm. An alarm could possibly flatten the battery in 4 weeks, especially if its a bit "tired". Both rectifier/regulator or an alternator fault are a possible cause. Its possible for the alternator to have shorted turns or some coils to be open circuit and still give some reduced output, so the 12.5v @ 5k rpm unfortunately doesn't completely rule out a faulty alternator. If you have a multimeter you can do some basic resistance checks on the alternator windings while you are waiting for your new battery. On the thou (gen 1) behind the LHS side panel there's a connector with 3 white wires. With this disconnected measure resistance on the alternator side between each of the white wires. Should be around 0.3 Ohms. There should be no connection (high resistance) between any of three wires and ground.
41
« on: 28 May 2016, 09:16:32 pm »
I believe correct fitment for Gen 1 is YT14B-BS. YTX14-BS is 17mm wider (87mm instead of 70mm). YTX14 might fit Gen 2 FZ1 (same width as YTZ14-BS for that bike) - maybe thats why?
42
« on: 26 May 2016, 09:01:44 pm »
"got a reading of 11v on the battery which was the same when the bike was running" - if your only measuring 11v with the engine running it is unlikely the battery is being charged. You may or may not also need a new battery but check the charging circuit first. Fact that the engine started before your ride but not after a quick stop also points towards failure to charge rather than faulty battery. With the engine running and above 2000 rpm you should see over 13v if battery is getting charged. You should see 14.1v to 14.9v @ 5000rpm according to manual.
43
« on: 25 January 2016, 07:31:50 pm »
Should be easy enough to solder in replacement bulbs. I assume remaining four are working ok?
44
« on: 15 December 2015, 05:37:29 pm »
Alarm connector under seat on Gen1?
45
« on: 27 August 2015, 09:03:30 pm »
Extra wires for lights on 2001 & 2002 models. Earlier switch (with more wires) should work on later bike. Other way round trickier. What are you trying to do?
46
« on: 20 August 2015, 09:28:49 am »
I assume you have been offered a fixed penalty? If you do not accept it then it will most likely go to court where fines will be higher than the £100 fixed penalty. To contest it in court you would have to plead not guilty.
Just for info - was this on the Crianlarich side of Tyndrum?
47
« on: 11 August 2015, 10:38:26 am »
48
« on: 23 July 2015, 04:18:29 pm »
Tacho bouncing sounds like its signalling an error code. If its going to 7K exup valve is stuck or servo u/s. There are other codes too - there info on here if you search. Sorry don't have a link.
Ian
49
« on: 22 July 2015, 05:25:40 pm »
What I'd do is;
1. pull plug on relay assembly (behind left hand side panel) and check light goes out (I think it will). If it stays on you a short between the blue/white wire from relay assy to neutral light and ground. reconnect.
2. pull plug on ICU and check light stays on.
3. if both above check out you a short from the light blue wire that runs to neutral switch, ICU and relay assembly. Which is the most likely given the where the alarm will have been wired.
Hope that helps.
Ian
50
« on: 13 July 2015, 09:19:44 pm »
2004 model both on. I've just checked the wiring diagram for 2001-2003 & the one for 2003 onwards. Bulbs are wired in parallel with no possibility to switch one off by itself. US model is the same too.
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