Swinging arm re greasing

[chr999chr]

Anyone know of a good guide to re greasing the swinging arm, the old girl has just passed 27k.
I had a look at pats page but there is nothing on it.

[dekker555]

Haynes workshop manual? Has a lot of other useful info too!

[tomjimtom]

I did it recently, follow haynes manual - all becomes clear
Main thing it doesn't say in the haynes is that you'll need a 27mm socket get  32mm for the rear spindle too...

It' a good idea to grease up the suspension linkages/rear shock as well, you need to take them out before the swingarm anyway


I found you don't need to remove the silver frame protectors by the footpegs, it'll all come out anyway (good for me because there's a rounded bolt )
I didn't need a new grease seal for the swingarm, but you may, I'd only done 16,000 miles

Oh, it's much easier if you can find someone to help as well, the swingarm's pretty light, but still easier to have someone to move chain out of the way, push bolts through etc..

Hope that helps,

any questions just send me a pm and I'll try and help

Tom

[phil on a fazer]

It' a good idea to grease up the suspension linkages/rear shock as well, you need to take them out before the swingarm anyway


I found you don't need to remove the silver frame protectors by the footpegs, it'll all come out anyway (good for me because there's a rounded bolt )
I didn't need a new grease seal for the swingarm, but you may, I'd only done 16,000 miles

Tom

yeah, totally agree. i do mine every two years and it isn't hard to do at all. While you have the back end out it gives a chance to inspect/clean more things.

[bludclot]

some tips that you might find useful or choose to ignore:

- removing the end can and pillion foot rest hangers is not necessary but improves access, especially if you intend to torque up the torque arm forward nut when done

- wrapping the left side of the arm with newspaper when removing and re-fitting protects it from being scratched by the chain

- shock doesn't have to come out but loosening the top mounting bolt helps it swing out of the way

- cutting a piece of timber and jamming it between the floor and the undertray will prevent any pivoting accidents while there's no rear wheel in. you may not lean on the seat but visiting mates or children....

otherwise it's a simple case of unbolting everything. there's no clips or split pins or left handed threads or anything else out of the ordinary.

torque settings required are: (nm / lbft)
rear axle 150/110
caliper bolts, shock 40/29.5 (uj required for top of shock bolt)
bones 48/35.4
swingarm 125/92.2
torque arm 23/16.7

the swingarm bearing designations are:
main ta2525z
linkage ta1715z
and cost around 30 posted for a set (if required) (tko, not genuine yamaha) from marksman ind., 2 of each required.

[ZiggyCol]

- cutting a piece of timber and jamming it between the floor and the undertray will prevent any pivoting accidents while there's no rear wheel in. you may not lean on the seat but visiting mates or children....

Another safety tip to avoid any possibility of accidentally  'lifting' the bike off the centre stand whilst heaving on tight bolts etc. is to simply tie a piece of rope or similar between the stand and the front wheel.