It could be a faulty ignition switch.  Check for continuity between the Black and Blue yellow wires in the ignition switch when the switch is turned on.

I forgot to reply to the ECU reset.Disconnect the Positive battery lead leave it off for about 15mins then touch it off the negative lead for a few secs, now put it back on.There are two sensors for firing of plugs and injectors the Crankshaft sensor and the Camshaft or Cylinder Identification sensor. These going bad would be more of a misfire issue, stopping intermittently especially when hot or difficulty starting and/or rich running or stalling

A Throttle position sensor going faulty could cause  the issue, but would be rare and it would most likely be surging when riding slowly. Removing it and turning it manually should show if it is the cause.
It could still be a stuck thermo wax unit as the little piston can seize. Bike that are idle for a long time or bike that are started occasionally and  not allowed heat up fully when left idle for a long time can have corrosion build up on the little piston causing them to stick on or off. It could be stuck on the replacement throttle bodies also.You can probably remove it with out disconnecting the coolant hoses like the FZ1 or you could separate the unit, I am not overly familiar with the FZ8 but it should be similar to the FZ1. The piston should move in and out when cold but only about 5or 6mm. Since you have a spare throttle body you could practice on it first

Only easy way to find  out is take off the float bowl and check the size of the main jet. The left side float bowl can be removed with the carbs on the bike, it's just a bit fiddly.Standard main jet on that carb is 132.5

Will the idle not drop if you adjust the idle adjuster? I assume not since that is the obvious first step to check.Did you reset the ECU? It is a learning ECU.Did you check the fuel line pressure? Should be 47PsiWhen you tested the items did you check the wiring connection back to the ECU? Did you check the Multi point earth which is prone to corrosion?Was the fast idle included with the replacement throttle bodies, is it adjusted properly and is a common source of high idle issues.
Has the TPS been set correctly?Did you try disconecting the O2 sensor?

yes, ive litterally just found the pipe from the carbs and fitted it, just trying to remember where the rubber engine guard goes as the manual i found on google is useless, thanks for your help

The rubber on the front top of the engine to direct water off plug caps??
If that is it, then the two holes at the top of the rubber closest together push on too the two round protruding pieces on to the flat part at the front of the frame at near the head-stock. Parts catalogue gives a better picture of it

I have been experiencing a sticky ignition barrel so put electrical contact cleaner in followed by a small amount of WD40 and it’s fine now.That is a classic problem with many Yamahas as many have 2 if not 3 circuits within the ignition and one circuit effects the starting. I have been using WD40 for years in Ignition barrels and never had the issue, but know many who had and again extremely common in every day use bike and more so if stored outside uncovered in all weathers. Have even seen a few freeze up due to water within just as Gnasher will most likey have seen also, WD40 does prevent it even though many do not like the idea of putting WD40 into the barrell. 

You will not see the water in the fuel as there will will be so little and well mixed. There are additives you can add to prevent the separation but I have never used any as I prefer to drain the tank. Water build up inside has been know to rot the tank from the inside out with the giveaway being paint on the lowest section of the tank.
At least it is running again, but the sticky ignition could have been the issue as it will turn over but not fire if the ignition acts up

Has the Exup,, plugs and valve clearances been checked recently? Does it misfire before it starts? Do you use the choke when starting from cold?
It is also very possible you have water in the fuel which is common in an all weather bike.
One easy way of checking is to drain the float bowls before starting cold and then letting them refill by turning on the ignition wait until the pump stops ticking turn off the iginition andturn it one again, keep doing this   until the pumps ticks once or not at all when the ignition is switch on. Then try starting it.

Locate the loop plugs under the seat and unplug one of them. Turn on the Ignition, press the starter button, does the engine still turn over YES/NO
If NO, put the loop plug back in and unplug the second one.
If YES continue

Turn the ignition on. Check the socket for an earth, only one of the two socket connectors should have an earth with the ignition switched on the and the side stand up. Use a Meter set to the lowest resistance scale to test it, do NOT use a test lamp as you could blow the CDI.

If there is no earth on either of the connectors in the socket then you have either a faulty ignition switch, a corroded connection somewhere or a broken wire somewhere.Earth both connector in the socket with a good earth, now turn on the ignition, engine in neutral and press the starter button and see if it fires when you spin the engine. If it does not turn over pull in the clutch and try again.
Let me know how you get on

New kid on the block may be Pedro Acosta, 2 championships in 3 years. He won Moto 3 championship as a rookie. Moved to Moto 2 and won a few races in his first year and won the championship in his second year. Moved up to MotoGP and put up a good showing first time on a MotoGP bike in November.My kids grew up with Rossis and we got to see him  in Donnington a few years ago. Made their day.
I always liked Rossi and watched  him come up trough the classes, great man for mind games,  Marquez caught my eye coming through the ranks, but Rossi was different something special.
He was having fun and the more fun he had the more he seemed to win in his heyday.
Stoner was an incredible rider but lacked Rossis personality as does Marquez.For this year it will be hard to bet against Marc.
Roll on the testing and the racing.
As an aside did anyone notice that the first BSB race is in Navarra Spain this year

 Glen Irwin is winding up Tommy Bridewell again yesterday. This time it was in poor taste.

Engine is not that difficult to remove, a bit fiddly, but that's it. See the manual for direction on it
While it is out you can check the valve clearances before putting it back in.

  Does anyone else think our instrument cluster indication of the indicators being in use is shite? I am an old twat from the days of RD 250/400 and 350LCs,  Kawasaki triples etc. The yams, especially of that era had blindingly   obvious flashing bright ones, self cancelling indicators as well, the LC especially as they were mounted very high on the cluster! I am forever forgetting to switch the Fazers indicators off!  It’s not a matter of if but when some arse pulls out in front of me! Only issue I have with the bike really. What do you think?

I totally agree the older Yams had them at the top and were easier to see, especially if they were left on. I replaced Dash Indicator lights  with LED bulbs (Like BBrowne1664) and they do make it easier to see

  Like many on here I do enjoy talking shite about my previous Foxeye and my present Gen 1,05, Thou. Against all better judgement l created a profile for Facebook which I f****** loathe, to try and join a Fazer group. I was declined as a scammer! ☹️ Yes the Facebook profile was vague because I don’t want to be arsed with people contacting me from years ago, I only want to access the Fazer groups! Any thoughts? P.s. As a self confessed ugly B******! I did not have my picture on Facebook when I joined, could this have something to do with it?

You're One of many Dave, One of many.
We will see you on the Book Face side Dave. Put up your pic, of the back of your head with your helmet on. Sorted