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Topics - Dead Eye
1
« on: 25 June 2016, 05:07:14 pm »
So the thou has been off the road for a few weeks as I thought the Cam Chain needed doing. However, after taking a look at the auto tensioner everything seems fine and well within tolerances  But, now a squeak has appeared  - It seems to mostly happen when slowing down and not at all when accelerating - Clutch in/out makes no difference, nor does RPM - so that rules out me fucking up the cam chain - New plugs is the only change made in addition to fiddling with the tensioner - It's more noticeable under 40 MPH - though this is likely due to reduced engine / exhaust / wind noise - It reminds of when a fan / aux belt or pulley is loose on a car My guess and assumption is front wheel bearing but I can't seem to replicate the issue when I'm not riding the bike and it seems weird that it would just randomly start after being sat for 4 weeks. Figured I'd consult the foccer font of knowledge before tearing things apart 
2
« on: 17 December 2015, 11:39:48 pm »
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« on: 03 November 2015, 05:01:16 pm »
Figured I'd take advantage of the famed foccer font of knowledge  I've just helped a friend move out of his place and he needs to sort out the plumbing under the kitchen sink where the dishwasher and washing machine used to connect... unfortunately he is fucking useless and I have very little experience with plumbing. What I want seems to be dead simple, but I'll be damned if I can find it! The waste from the two machines connected to two spigots above the waste trap like in the photo below  | Waste Spigot |
All we want to do is block off where the spigot connects so that waste can't back up and overflow when the sink is being drained. It seems simple enough but I can't find what I'm after... can anyone point me in the right direction? Google just yeilds hundreds of results for how to plumb in a washing machine, not how to deal with removing the fucker
4
« on: 12 July 2015, 01:47:26 pm »
So I've finally be working to try and get my 600 back to life. Got the new carbs in place (thanks noggy) and all the other bits and pieces attached so got some fuel and tried to prime the system of which the fuel pump seems to constantly go mad (obviously the system was entirely empty so initially this made sense) Ended up trying to fire up the bike, but fuel started coming out of the below pipe (when the bike is cranking)  | 20150712 130907 |
I though this was just a breather? ... I have just had a thought - could this be the float bowls overfilling?
5
« on: 03 July 2015, 08:37:35 pm »
So we all know the great Fazer forums are basically 10x better than any other... as such, a quick query regarding suspension for 4 wheels instead of 2 My car has decided it's drunk  The offside (drivers side) front corner has dropped by about 1-2 inches - is this likely the springs or the damper rod thing (shock)? Now the springs are basically brand new (done about 200 miles) HOWEVER, I have come across some evidence that suggests they are the wrong springs for the variant I own. Obviously I will be replacing them with the correct springs, but instead of having to potentially swap the springs over twice, I am curious as to whether the shocks have had it as well Suspension is not my forte 
6
« on: 13 April 2015, 06:24:01 pm »
So I like the idea of learning to weld as I feel like its the next step in my progress of working on cars and bikes. I'd like to do a simple course which introduces welding and gives me an idea of how to do it but unfortunately it seems like these things just don't exist anymore The main stuff available is full time courses and education colleges which last for 9 months and cost a fortune, but you get a certification which I don't need I'm curious if any of the foccers local to the likes of Hertfordshire have any experience of any night classes that are hidden away from the mighty Google. Based on a few old forum threads I've run in to this is what I want to do; Work with steel / stainless steel and potentially aluminium Small work, nothing too crazy and not likely to be particularly often unless I sink my teeth in to a large project Primarily working on cars I expect - so seals, custom brackets, exhaust work etc Figure that I may just end up practising some basic stick welding and try not to set fire to anything - just learn from making all the mistakes possible haha. The other option for me I think would be MIG but the setup costs are somewhat more prohibitive it seems... Advice is welcome
7
« on: 27 November 2014, 02:48:13 pm »
In a twist from the usual helmet recommendations I have an issue that is beginning to get on my nerves with my glasses...
I have to use them to ride and I can't use contacts because of my line of work. I finally replaced my helmet a few months back and have a pinlock insert which has been great at preventing the whole misting up issue that I had on my old one any time the temperature dropped to being even remotely cool - however, this has now highlighted that my glasses seem to be doing the same damn thing. So now my glasses are misting up any time I get on the bike, which is generally fine when travelling upwards of 30mph, but for anything slower, especially traffic, I end up trying to look through more-or-less frosted glass
I tried using some anti-mist stuff on the lenses but this didn't work despite working on my old visor... anyone know of any better products or solutions?
8
« on: 03 September 2014, 11:34:17 am »
I know this topic has been done to death so this is just an informational post...
My renewal is at the end of this month and so my friendly bike insurer (MCE) phoned me up to discuss my renewal. After going through the options and stating about how I'm adding on extra stuff this year (which I am) that it's going to be more expensive bla bla bla, he comes back saying that he is surprised at how cheap it is... at a staggering £479.69 - I just laughed.
He went on to talk about how the winter prices are going up and that every company is some £100-150 more expensive this year and that no one is getting a cheaper renewal. I pointed out that I'd had quotes for £200-£300 for which he claimed that was because the online systems were wrong and that if I tried to purchase I'd be called up with the correct price.
So he did me a favour for a one-time offer of £354.69 for this years cover... after contemplating my options I decided to give it a miss, much to his disappointment (this call lasted like half an hour of him rambling about how the prices are more expensive this year etc).
I immediately proceeded to GoCompare, got my quote as usual and oh look, £215.38 - that's more like it and about the price I was expecting to pay... quote offered by, guess who? MCE...
I proceeded to the site whereby I purchased my insurance without any trouble and no phone call to tell me the price was incorrect.
So, ladies and gentlemen, ignore the bastard tele-sales people and don't be convinced that you are getting the "absolute best deal possible" when on the phone. I'll admit that my phone quote included Protected No-Claims and Free Trackday cover (with an excess of half the bikes worth mind!) but that doesn't warrant an additional 50% premium imo.
TL;DR
Tele-sales people are slimey bastards that want your money. Don't fool for it - check online for yourself before committing to anything over the phone.
9
« on: 21 July 2014, 10:33:27 am »
As part of my eventual move I need to transport my bikes, one of which that does not run
At first I figured I'd hire a Luton / Box Van with a tail-lift but this is proving difficult due to age requirements and mileage limits etc
I previously transported my first 600 using a Transit and a ramp, but the ramp was dodgy as all hell (it was never designed for motorcycles) and its not mine so I no longer have access to it. Plus, that 600 worked so I could use the engine power to assist in getting it up the ramp.
I'd rather not spent £40-60 on a ramp that I will likely use for one day and then never again, so does anyone have any ideas or possibly have a ramp that I could borrow?
10
« on: 17 July 2014, 06:14:36 pm »
Sorry, but I couldn't resist the pun... despite it being done to death... Anyway, I've put this in general as it is car related, not nothing to do with my Fazers So, I have just finished the task of replacing the discs and pads on all 4 corners. The rears were very low and almost at metal on metal and the fronts were just old and figured I'd do the whole lot anyway. Having completed the procedure, I bled all 4 corners a few times and the pedal became rock hard - much better than ever before (woohoo I thought)... But ahah, not so fast the car says, upon starting the engine, the brake pedal falls almost to the floor and the brakes become absolutely useless... I've never experienced this before and I've actually done the brakes on the same make and model car before as well! So, off I trot to the internet to do some research... to which I find 101 various answers and counter-arguments, the highlights of which are; 1) Air is still in the system. 2) Calipers / Master Cylinder / Booster are busted 3) ABS system needs to be bled 4) Seals in Master Cylinder have flipped For each of these things, there is a counter-argument that people have made and so far, in not a single thread I've read has the OP come back with the solution to their woes... fucking bastards... Now, I could go all night attempting to bleed the brakes, but that seems to have been done by several people with no success. I can't see any bulging on any of the flexi-hoses and there are no leaks on any of the calipers as far as I can tell. I then came across a guide to test the booster, so followed its instructions; 32. Brake Booster Test
Functional Test:
1. With engine off, depress brake pedal several times; then, depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line, or brake caliper is bad.
2. Start engine with pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.
Leak Test:
1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary, while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is fine. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.
2. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve. My car responded as expected, suggesting that the booster is in full working order. So, minions of FOC-U, have any of you in your travels experienced said problem and actually managed to solve it? My only real next step is to test each caliper by clamping the flexi-hose (and trying not to destroy it in the process) and spend the next year bleeding the brakes with gallons of DOT4 until the problem magically fixes itself...
11
« on: 24 May 2014, 08:24:56 am »
I saw this online and it looks quite interesting. It's only in the US at the moment, but it would be awesome if it took off. It's currently trending so here's to hoping that it hits it's target
12
« on: 15 May 2014, 04:35:39 pm »
Well, I was going to go to the DVLA local office to ask this question but apparently its been closed... so that was helpful, thank you very much In any case, my previous 600 had a falling out with some fire. The frame is toast ( ) and I don't believe its in a good enough condition to sell plus no bugger wants to have it for free. So I figured I'd scrap it so that I don't have to re-SORN it every year for the rest of my life. The catch is that I want to rescue the engine (this process is already under way) and I don't know if scrapping the bike will affect my ability to use the engine later on in a legal capacity. Is it something completely stupid and I'm just worrying about nothing? Or do I have to go about some sort of process? A quick Google search didn't yield any particularly helpful articles
13
« on: 28 March 2014, 11:35:24 am »
This happens far too often for my liking... note that I'm the "expert" in this scenario and the clients are always muppets...
14
« on: 07 March 2014, 03:40:58 pm »
For a few weeks now, maybe a month or more in fact, the front end of my bike has felt... off - particularly noticeable when cornering and when the tyres are cold. Once they are warmed up the problem seems to dissipate I'd checked around the front of the bike a bit without much success in identifying the problem, but after a short ride today I took a closer look and found that a section of the front tyre feels raised / deformed. Its most noticeable when running your fingers across the tyre and can just about be seen by the eye when up close. I took a photo to try and illustrate the issue and have highlighted the area where you can just about see the raised section of the tyre. This raised section appears to loop the entire tyre is almost midway between the centre and offside of the tyre (slightly closer to the centre)  | BT023 |
This is a BT023 that has about 4-5k miles on it and the problem has only surfaced within the last 1000 miles at most. I'm assuming that I'm going to need to replace the tyre, but wanted opinions and thoughts on whether this is just a one-off issue down the the tyre or whether there are other forces at work here. Also worth noting is that the bike doesn't do any commuting and the majority of my mileage is on A and B roads so the tyre isn't squared off (that I can tell)
15
« on: 24 February 2014, 01:49:25 pm »
Now, according to the previous owner, my gen 1 has been Invanised... I'm fairly sure at the time he said it was the full monty, but my memory isn't fantastic So, with that in mind, is there a simple way I can check for myself to see if it has been Invanised and to determine if it was the fully monty or just the slip-on? Apologies if covered in another thread. I couldn't find a dedicated thread for this particular question and searching for invanising in general provides a plethora of results
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« on: 11 January 2014, 12:38:11 am »
Recently, since the theme has reverted after Christmas and the New Year, the logo appears to have been savaged by some strange obelisk of blackness :P Screenshot attached and should be viewable here as well http://www.liamfreke.net/screenshots/clipping_6646.png
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« on: 22 December 2013, 10:19:27 am »
Since I moved back I don't recall seeing a full day of half decent weather! Its ridiculous! Made even worse by the fact that it taunts and teases you
Woke up about 45 minutes ago, lovely sun, bright skies, no clouds to be seen. Got in the shower about 20 mins ago, all still fine. Get out of shower and now I can't see a single bit of blue sky and its throwing it down with rain... well and truly ruined my biking plans for today
AARARARHGHGHGHGHG!! Fucking weather.
Note: I swear its like this all year round and I had a few nice days in Hertfordshire last week so I know its possible this time of year!!
Rant. Over.
... for now.
18
« on: 11 December 2013, 05:46:06 pm »
Spotted this today, thought it might be of interest to a few people. Pitted our beloved Fazer 600 against a VFR800 and a ZX-9R as a winter hack for £1500
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« on: 02 December 2013, 07:10:30 pm »
In my parents house, there is a multi-fuel burning fire that is typically fed with wood however there is recent concern about the build up of tar in the chimney flue which can cause chimney fires. I've done a little research about the best way to get rid of these deposits as they are sticky and can't be removed with a chimney sweep.
A couple of products have shown up as special chemical logs which turn the sticky tar into a brittle compound that breaks up. Other places have recommended burning smokeless fuels for a while as the sulphur released does a similar thing. My question really is has anyone had experience with either options or any further advice on how to get rid of tar from a chimney?
Its been in place for years and years, but recently we've switched our fuel source and this may be the cause of the larger / faster tar build-up. Unfortunately as this fuel is currently completely free its not ideal to switch from using it. Its compressed briquettes of saw dust that comes from a joinery business owned by family friends, although its not 100% clear as to whether this is the cause - its just something that was mentioned by the person who came out to sweep the chimney.
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« on: 22 November 2013, 04:57:28 pm »
Found this on the interweb today
21
« on: 18 October 2013, 05:07:19 pm »
Tried doing a few searches and couldn't find anything specific so here goes;
Does removing / inserting the baffle on an aftermarket exhaust make any real difference on an Ivanised bike... I wouldn't have thought it make too much difference if any, but Mr. Exupnut has got be thinking now after a conversation we had...
23
« on: 09 October 2013, 01:29:43 pm »
Had this come up on every single page request to the forum for about 20 minutes...
Warning: Unknown: failed to open stream: Permission denied in Unknown on line 0
Fatal error: Unknown: Failed opening required '/home/gareth/public_html/index.php' (include_path='.:/usr/lib/php:/usr/local/lib/php') in Unknown on line 0
24
« on: 04 October 2013, 07:04:57 pm »
So instead of infesting a dozen other topics about my woes I figured it would be a good idea to start a thread. I'm currently embarking on replacing the Head Bearings and so far it hasn't been tooo bad... until now... Dismantled the front end the other night and removed the old bearings which were beginning to get notchy. The lower race also has some pitting in it which I think is where most of my problems have come from... I hope... In any case, I managed to get the upper race out using a hammer of all things... its a lump hammer thing and it was slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the race so I managed to anchor the edge of the hammer head underneath the race and leverage it out without having to use a drift at all which is awesome as its no doubt saved me a headache... however, the lower race is an absolute b!tch as was expected. I can't seem to find (or buy) a screwdriver to use as a drift that has the right profile. All the long screwdrivers seem to have heads that are too wide and the shaft is too bloody strong to bend to make it fit better plus the races' larger size means my hammer trick doesn't work TL;DR So basically, advice is requested ^^ I've pretty much run out of light this evening but I have the whole of tomorrow scheduled to try and get this sorted. I think my butane torch might be coming out to play but it would be nice to have a half decent drift
25
« on: 16 September 2013, 08:28:29 pm »
I have the internal parts of the forks from a '99 FZS 600 available. The bike had done about 24k so the springs may still be of some use to someone not after anything special. Free to collect or pay for postage (located in Chelmsford, Essex) This is from a pre 2000 Fazer so does not have the pre-load adjusters. I have the fork lowers lying around as well I think... forgot to take a photo though
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