Also it's worth making sure there is no dirt or crud in the plug 'well' before removing the plug or you might get dirt falling inside the cylinder head.

Dunno if the mirror is the same as the ones on the 2002-2003 FZS 600 Foxey?

I had exactly the same problem with one of my mirrors being wobbly and at speed the whole mirror used to move backward from the hinge/swivel point, the original set up is riveted, I tried to tighten the rivet to no avail, so I purchased a new pair of mirrors on EvilBay for about £20 I think it was. Well, they turned out to be the biggest load of crap ever manufactured (Obviously with the exception of the Harley Davidson) As an aside someone told me the best way to increase the power of a Harley Davidson is to buy a smaller plough

I sent the mirrors back and got a refund. I then stripped out the old mirror, drilled out the rivet and replace it with a 10mm bolt and nylock nut (That's 10mm spanner size not thread diameter) the mirror is now fine and holds station unless I go over about 120 when it slowly folds back so all I can see is my own shoulder, which is not good when you want to see if there is any colour blue behind you.

Any policeman    reading this post I wish to inform you that this is total fiction, as I am a law abiding citizen.

My problem is that I need to fold both my mirrors back towards the fairing to pass through a side gate to my house, and this is the thing that shags the swivel point as my mirrors back and forth each time I leave and arrive home, also when tight filtering in slow moving traffic I tend to pull my mirrors back to give more clearance between cars.

My front are Hel
No one so far has mentioned the option of a two or 3 line front, I went for a two line front.

Same as that Sharpie, I went for the two line front as opposed to the three line setup as it cuts out the splitter manifold on the front fork yoke, plus it reduces the number of bango bolts/joints, less chance of leaks. win win it seems to me.

No Tiger!  That's my knob that's the size of a Hobbit, sometimes known as a Hobnob but don't dip it in your hot tea.

Just found this while doing a search on YouTube with regard to front sprockets

No not an engineer at all, just a bricklayer.   and a retarded retired one at that.
I take it my theory holds no sway with you then?
Never mind life goes on. 

A. I have them, i find slight improvement in braking, old rubber hoses will be well passed there use date now too, so a good mod I think.
B. Yes as above slight better breaking, you can also choose different colours and helps customise the bike a bit.
C. You will get a Foc-U discount from HEL on braided lines, think its 25%

Agrees with Tefer,
The chances are that the rubber originals on your bike are possibly 10 or 15 years old, and rubber does perish and after a while some breaking efficiency is lost due to the old rubber pipes ballooning under heavy breaking, so a real improvement in braking is gained with braided lines.

Plus as Tefer says you can choose a colour to match your custom scheme if you have one, or, the colour of the bodywork of you bike if you don't, another plus is they are not so fat and chunky so they look a lot sharper.

I have Cobra lines on mine, but someone did say that he thought they were manufactured in the same factory, Hells are highly thought of and if you can get soem dosh off as a Foccer that would be the way to go I would imagine.

Good luck  and as said, it's a great upgrade and win win in every direction 

Quote from: sgpwwg on 25 July 2016, 10:45:51 pm

Had another great track day at Bedford Autodrome. Changed the front sprocket to 13 tooth for greater punch out of the corners. Videos being uploaded to YouTube tonight if anyones interested. Still revs into the red-line, fastest top speed 134 on the back straight not bad for 86,000+ miles. Added a few pics from the day.

amazingly good

Hi Yamasaki, sounds really good mate, I have never done a track day I don't have the balls for it as I found out years ago down at brands hatch on a practice day (was a Wednesday then) Nigel Warne a mate of mine raced a Boniville and we had rebuilt it over the winter, it was the 9 stud cylinder head bonny so the head could be put on 180 degrees out so effectively she was ram ait with the carbs at the front (Amal Monoblocks) We fitted a Quaif 5 speed gearbox close ratio, lightened valve gearing and the Morgo 750 conversion. We have transported the bike Down to Brands to trial and run it in before Nigel raced at Mallory on the weekend. Nigel did about 30 laps of the short circuit and came back to the pits for a potty break and a wet from the flaske. He suggested that I take the bike out and do some laps, I really wanted to but no race licence no insurance of any ant discription and no blood tag around my neck (wonder if you need  all that for a Trackday?) anyway he talked me into it , didn't take many seconds so in the secrecy of his Thames van I donned his leathers and skid lid with smoked grey visor and hung his blood tag around my neck as you need to show it when going to the pits. Anyway onto start and finish straight and I'm away, through paddock under the Dunlop tyre up to the hairpin, hang a left down the hill into clear ways I loved it and thought I was 'King of Brands' Well did 4 laps and coming out of the hairpin and hooking a left into south bank I think the bend was called for the fifth time I felt I was really the dogs bollocks by now, I'm on the far right of the track about 3 foot from the angled checkered kerbs cranked hard to the left feeling invincible, I did not have a clue, completely oblivious to the fact that a 3 lung Kwacker 350 stroker had come up behind me fast and passed between me and the checker kerbs, he must of been doing 15 or 20 mph more than I
And sound like world war three had started, fuck those things are loud with triple expansion chambers. I damn need lost control, totally unexpected just the incredibly loud screaming from nowhere and I almost felt him as he passed and the angle he was over at must of made me look vertical. I'm sad to say I learned one thing about myself that day, I was never ever going to be KING OF BRANDS. my balls are much to small.


Yamasaki please post a link in here to yout YouTube Clips I would love to see them. I have enjoyed many a foccers track day clips in here.    tommy

Cheers for those links, I've saved them for when the time comes. This is the one I'd been looking at:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400676831619.


The chain has stretched past the limit they quote in the manual but still doesn't pull off the sprocket teeth very much at all, so I'm hoping to keep it going a bit longer. Need to keep an eye on the front sprocket wear as well though.


Would be a nice job for spring / summer when it's warmer /lighter ,  and I can take the opportunity to regrease swingarm bearings at the same time

I heard that the front sprocket wears out much quicker than the back as it only about a third the size therefore rotates about 3 times to every one of the rear leading to hooked teeth much quicker than the rear,
It was recommended to me that the front sprocket be changed about 12-15K and that helps the chain and rear sprocket last to probably twice as long possibly up to 30 -35K.
Make sense?   Whatcha fink?
Chain and both sprockets £120, front sprocket about 18-20 Quid.


Quick modify to my post thinking about it.


If the front sprocket wears and hooks much muck quicker than the rear the worn front will damage the chain much quicker ans as the chain is the most expensive part of the drive train I guess it makes sence to change the front sprocket sooner than later.

I am old, so manners and politeness are not old fashioned to me as it was the norm when I was brought up. Other than this forum, I post on fishing and football forums, the main purpose of all of them is the sharing of experiences, opinions and advice, as well as the odd wind up. But to come on a forum and say "hi wanna buy my bike?", is not on. There's plenty of For Sale columns in plenty of bike mags, MCN springs to mind first.....but then you have to pay to place your advert. Maybe I should have posted this on "What gets my goat".

Robbo and the 'Norm' ha ha!  dear oh dear where did he get that from?

Just used half a 250ml can of WD40 to wash the Ignition Key/Switch out (I put a lot of gun oil in there earlier today) I pushed the thin applicator pipe right down into the switch and wigged it up and as spraying and it washed load of muck and scummy stuff out of the bottom on the switch barrel I wedged about 12 folded sheets of kitchen roll under the switch on top of the lower headlamp mounting bracket and the tissue was soaked in really dirty slimy WD40, I kept doing it untill the WD came out clean.


I will pop into Maplins tomorrow and pick up a can of spray electrical switch cleaner and give it a really good clean out with that also, hopefully by next Wednesday my graphite lube will have arrived so the i can apply that and hopefully all will be well.


But as said in an earlier post into this forum, once the key is fully in the lock just gently pulling backwards towards the fuel tank made the key turn really easy without any snagging what-so-ever.
So I'm guessing that both the lock and key are probably worn, but I think this work around will do while I find source for the 7 wire ignition switch, although they seem as rare as rocking horse poo.
Think I removed the tissues to soon WD now dripping off my fender extender, but at least its clean.

Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock

Graphite I believe is possibly a mixture with other thingsthat a pencil lead is made. Years ago it was said that if a plug wasn't sparking very well to rub a pencil on the electrodes and it would help the situation. I would have thought that it would have been burnt off with the first bang.