if i ever buy another blow torch i will buy the one with the piezo igniter cause sods law the moment you need it you wont find a lighter
-and when you turn to the backup matchsticks that have sat in the drawer for 3 years you realise they got damp and wont light

there are loads of topics on using the r6 shock using a couple of tophats and new doglegs
search r6 shock in the foc-u search bar and they will pop up

dont know exactly but from looking at info in the haynes manual the looks like they are totally different
the spring free length is a good 100mm longer which doesnt necceserily translate over to actuall length
but it does suggest yzf forks are longer which is more likely as doesnt the fzs have clip ons above the top yoke

i only mentioned wd40 (the devils semen) because unfortunately that seems to be the only lubrication some people tend to know about
wd40 your ignition barrel   - NO NO NO (use carb cleaner then a graphite spray - never an oil) (try carb/brake cleaner first as a test next time)
wd40 your tight bolts - NO use a proper penetration spray
wd40 your wifes arse - NO NO NO be nice and use Another type of penetration lube


wd40 is great for some jobs dont get me wrong and i always have some but it is rarely the correct thing to use
we have a can in our rally cars tool box but rarely use it back at the garage is its primary roll is water displacement
can it penetrate YES - is it the best HELL NO

if the wheel isnt off yet hit the bolts with some plus gas every day for a few days while your waiting for the new disc

if you aint got a welder but have a blowtorch get some heat on those bolts then hit them with some plus gas /wd40 / thin oil and let them cool
and give them a good whack with a hammer to shock them (every little helps)

there is also the candle wax trick but hardly anyone has candles anymore
then its time to get out the shortest socket you have and a breaker bar - those fuckers are tighter than a ducks arse but not as waterproof

have just realised i have done the service items for the 98-2001 models i will get round to doing them for other models when i can

Years ago I had a prick pen, now, now that's enough lads, allow me to continue.
It was like a ballpoint pen with a very sharp short needle at one end and a small bulb at the other end, half way along its length it had a flying lead about 2 foot long with a small crocodile clip.


Now somehow the needle and the centre contact on the bulb must of been connected and the flying lead to the mount or negative side of the bulb.
It was brilliant for finding out if cables had power and you could work your way along the length of a cable or wire and find the exact point the the break was. The needle made such a fine hole in the insulation just rubbing that sport hard with a thumb nail and it seemed to disappear.
 I,m going to make one, it's not rocket science. Sewing machine needle,  six inch length plastic tube, small bulb (12 volt) and bulb holder, wire a crock clip and builder bucket full of aradite. Jobs-a-Goodun


Update:
thinking about it you could do exactly the same thing using a multi meter with a very sharp positive probe

just get some spare leads for your multimeter and solder a sewing machine needle to it on positive side (just key the multimeter surface first to make sure it gets a good hold)
- could try tacking it on with a welder but i have a feeling something would melt first

i can clear all that on photoshop - its just so i get the right look - i will pretty much remake the whole thing using the filled in one as a guide
(kind of like using a light box and greaseproof paper)
thats why if you see a scan of my driving licence there are no points on it lol

and that is why myself and everyone else who is not an idiot uses the NGK option
ooh i cant wait till someone says they bought OEM plug caps, because that says they have more money than sense

daviee any chance you could scan it or take photos so i can mess around on photoshop cleaning it up and make one for the download section that looks original for people ???


although i have no idea how i would get it onto the download section yet

would be suprised if any still came with a recording booklet
i just type it in notepad and keep it in the folder with the manual i downloaded from the download section

ok this is getting out of hand very quickly


so setting them all at the same zero would work in a perfect world and most of the time could work
HOWEVER
due to how these sort of things work they need calibrated in use as they have moving parts and springs and all other things that may not be exactly the same as each other and will show a different reading anywhere other than 1 bar


another way to explain  calbration is  2 torque wrench's sitting on a table, one calibrated, one way out
you have no way to know which is which untill you put them under force on a test rig
ok we dont have a test rig for vacuum BUT WE DO we have four different ones of them
each cylinder is its own test rig giving the same vacuum all the time (ish)

i think daviee is referring to the calibration of the carb balancers - i have had my eye on the same setups for a while but i know my bench setup works pretty well then i tune it with my ear and a piece of pipe (years of practice and still learning from my pops, webers and classic rally cars gives an advantage) the problem after balancing is the idle screw and getting it right from there


think of it this way - a cylinder will usually take as much air as it wants in there once ballanced (allowing same air volume) - our job is to give the right amount of fuel for that amount of air weather that be during tickover (idle screw) or jets and needles for later in the ranges
if your running stock everything then a quick balance then idle screw setup is all you need to worry about
(assuming you have clean carbs and no gummed up emulsion tubes)


a lot of people also overlook doing a compression test if things are a bit lumpy at tickover (including myself)