Hi Guys,


I am at a bit of a loss.


I was away Friday to Saturday last week on a Stena Bikes Onboard event. The Friday night and Saturday morning were wet, really wet. I got up Saturday morning and tried to start the FZS1000, it was not keen but a little choke and we were away. I boarded the ferry and we arrived in NI, I stopped after disembark to fix gloves and get Sat Nav set up turned on my lights and the dash went off. It restarted and the check lights came on thought it was weird and trued to repeat and it did it again. The bike was still running. We set off and all looked fine, i had to hit the pass light (High Beam flash) and the dash went blank again with check lights, this was only 10 mins after leaving the ferry. We had been riding around 30 mins and i tried the pass light again, nothing happened, so all was good for the rest of the day.


After a really wet trip the bike was put away in the garage and never thought about again until Monday for a wash. I started washing the bike (no pressure washer, just garden hose), gave it a good clean and all was good. I started the bike and it was running for a minute and i thought i would check the pass light to see all was ok. Well this time dash went off and bike cut out, there is now no lights on the dash.


When you turn the ignition there is nothing no lights, no priming of the fuel pump absolutely Zero.


I have checked and Battery is charged and holding 12.76 volts. The main fuse is OK (tested with multimeter), the fuses in the box for lights and that look ok (not tested individually only visual inspection). The earthing has been checked and looks ok.


Can anyone hold my hand through some other checks to determine where the problem lies? I am thinking ignition problem but have no idea how to check this. I have sprayed every connector block with WD40 to try and drive out moisture but still nothing.


My electrical knowledge is not great but i have a meter and if told were to check i will.


Cheers

I have this morning had a coolant leak at the front of the engine, anyone else had this? Easy Fix?

So while doing the forks i have noticed the head bearings are notchy, quite bad, so need new. Now when i look at the Yamaha parts its about £100.


I have seen the Marksman kit [size=78%]http://shop.marksman-ind.com/yamaha-fz1-2001---05-headrace--steering-kits-23350-p.asp[/size], from what i read the tapered bearings are better was will last longer, if i buy the marksman kit will i need anything else for the job? Better to replace any wee cheap parts while in there is they are perishable.


Seen this topic [/size][size=78%]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,7518.0.html[/size] and it has me a bit worried on that the parts will all fit fine? There is a rubber washer mentioned, any idea on part number?

Hi,


Fitted my Renthal 758's yesterday and had seen a mention of chopping 10mm on the ends but was waiting to see how it all felt first. I have the bars on and when fitting the throttle side it felt like there was a good bit of resistance, is this normal for other that have changed?


The cables sit really close to the servo too for the exup, i am thinking its been routed wrong.


The bike has heated grips but they are quite large compared to Oxford, how do i go about removing the throttle grip if i cannot quite get on with it?

Hi,


I had the exup of the bike to clean and get unseized. Decided to get new Slinky cables too, as thats what looked to be on the bike already.


I thought i'd taken a picture to show what one was correct for upper and lower at both Servo and at valve, it would appear not or its missing.


Anyone know? Are the different lengths?

Hi,


I have had the Exup valve dismantled for servicing, turned out to be a pig of a job as bolts were seized. I have managed to get them out with help of a friend. I am now looking at building back up, but the plate seems like a really tight fit, like i would need to tap back on?


How loose should the valve plate be?

I have a problem with my 1999 FZS600 clocks. The right hand side (Right of Rev Gauge and Petrol Gauge) goes off when the bike goes over 4k, this then comes back on about 6k. If i drop below 4k again it comes back on and when changing gears it goes of and back on.

Not sure if this is related to revs or if its just the vibration of the bike at these ranges, any ideas? I have tried wiggling various wires and no help. Weird that its only the right side and not the whole unit.

Do i need to remove fairing to get to clocks?

Hi guys,

So had my gen 1 since last October last year, generally very happy with it but been doing bits and bobs and also finding wee things i'd like to change taking in feedback from the site.

The rear tyre is getting low and squared so thought i better get this done as handling feels pretty shit even with the R6 shock, defo better than standard but still like its sliding about. When i was in today gettin the tyre changed the mechanic said i was to come have a look, the needle bearing at the rear just floats in the wheel, you can move it with two fingers. He said this was not normal and that it should be a comfort fit, this is when i was told it was a new wheel job, would this be correct? There is a breakers nearby but they are looking for £160 or best offer for a wheel. Any ideas on worth?

I have used the link that's in the forum to Marksmen industries and i have ordered a new rear bearing kit and also the sprocket carrier kit so that should save me a good bit money from OEM parts. (Not sure if mechanic will agree to quality of parts over OEM but if endorsed by Mike {Falcon} and the other forum guys then i'm happy)

If the wheel needs changed may also stick a wanted add up in the sale part.

A friend is selling this

I bought the bike with renthal bars, is there anyway to determine the style?

I am having problems with hand cramp, not sure if the renthal bars or the heated grips?

Hey,

I bought an FZS1000 and the end of last year, its pretty much sat over winter (did not want to get it covered in Salt) I also have an FZS600 that I have had for the last 4 years.

I am looking for opinions on what to do to the thou, looks like there is some great mods out there, if you could list your top mods then what would they be?

I have spoken to Mike about Ivanising, i will do this as soon as I can. I also have a Devilsym R6 shock ready to be fitted, getting a shocktube deliverd then fitting.

The bike feels like it has a slight pulsing feeling, the carb rubbers look cracked but probably not right through, is there anything other than easy start to test this? The last owner said a carb balance would possibly be good, i will probably have this done soon. I had asked about the oil in the air filter box and that seems ok, it was not swimming or that. i had thought a about a K&N or Pipercross filter but folk have said that without rejetting this might not be great, so glad i asked.

I also feel the fuel gauge is inaccurate, or not so much that but seems to reduce in a weird way (quick in places on gauge and slow in others) does the multigauge help.

Any suggestions welcome.

Hey Guys,

The Carronvalley MCC from Falkirk are doing the annual Easter Run again in 2016 on the 27th of March. If anyone is about and wants to come along then please do, there is no cost per bike but a Donation to CHAS however small is appreciated.

Meeting at the Falkirk Wheel car park beside the Wheelhouse restaurant from 10am, the run will leave at 10:30 sharp.

Not sure what Fazer I am taking yet, the weather will most likley decide that.

Cheers

I was cleaning the bike today and I was leaning on the rear to get excess water out the belly pan, I noticed there seemed to be some play in the rear. I then leant over the bike and pulled the rear wheel towards the mudguard and there was a we notch of movement. I am assuming it would be from swingarm, certainly feels like that.


I see there is a how to article on changing the bearings, any idea on how long that would take? Also how difficult is it? I am a mechanical novice but my partners brother has said he'd help, he is a car mechanic so should be a good help.


Any known problems i could run in to would help.