Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
General => General => Topic started by: Dan Gliballs on 10 December 2016, 09:18:13 pm
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Like them on the gs or other type bikes. has anyone fitted some with any success ? are the cheap ones any good?
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Hiya fella,
I've bought and fitted these to my boxeye and they make a hell of a diffence. Will get a pic up asap.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF)
Used a fuse tap to link into a switched circuit on the bike http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw)
I've bolted them straight to the top bolt of the radiator side plate. I know what you're thinking but a damaged rad is the least of my worries if the bike goes down hard.
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Piccies
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Normal
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Spots make a huge difference to night riding and also add another layer of safety for day time riding also.
I fitted a couple on my Fazer a year or so ago, I feel more confident by being able to see better at night and also being seen in the daytime.
The spots I fitted are 30watt Projector Crees, they are amazingly bright and double the light out put at night, I have them focused on the low side so as not to cause issues for oncoming drivers and they really light up the area 30 feet in front of the bike, kerbs and road edges are also illuminated well.
The link below is for evilBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-LED-SPOT-LIGHTS-FOG-LIGHTS-X-2-30W-CREE-1200LM-12V-CAR-/262755212897?hash=item3d2d6e5e61:g:ONoAAOSw3zxXMMMA (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-LED-SPOT-LIGHTS-FOG-LIGHTS-X-2-30W-CREE-1200LM-12V-CAR-/262755212897?hash=item3d2d6e5e61:g:ONoAAOSw3zxXMMMA)
I just clicked the link and went back to the EvilBay web page, and was shocked at the price this particular seller is asking I paid about 15 or 17 quid for them when I bought them I also bought a silver pair of cheap bar end weights for the ends of the mounting pipes.
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Got the same as you Tomski fitted to my CBF. ALL my bikes have either the same as yours or the 10w Cree type fitted - all set to about 25 -30 ft same as you.
I know from drivers reactions, when filtering, that they have made THE difference between being seen or not.Ride with them on at all times.
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Hi thanks for the input will look into this some more
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Is the effectiveness of the indicators not compromised by the close proximity and high brightness of the spot lights?
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Is the effectiveness of the indicators not compromised by the close proximity and high brightness of the spot lights?
That's a bludy good point! I've noticed that problem with a lot of newer cars, the headlights or running lights are so big and bright that they over power the indicators. I can't think which car it is but I'm sure it's a new Ford that has DRL's that change to orange while indicating then return back to white afterwards, great idea.
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Is the effectiveness of the indicators not compromised by the close proximity and high brightness of the spot lights?
No. They dazzle more in the pics than real life.
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Is the effectiveness of the indicators not compromised by the close proximity and high brightness of the spot lights?
Hi Dan,
No! the way I have mine, and its sounds as if Tiger (Frosties) has his pointed in the same direction and height, they do not overpower the wandercaters at all, there seems to be very little spurious light emission from these LED Projector lamps, it is a definite spot beam with very little breakaway light, so indicators not effected.
I I have tried mine at different height levels and the level that the cars stopped flashing :eek me is around, at the top of beam 30 foot in front of front tyre.
And as Frosties said, that it really helps when filtering and I have also noticed that cars do not pull out of side roads in front of me like they did when I just had dipped lamps on. No guarantees on that one though.
mines a 2002-2003 model FZS600, so both dipped beams are on automatically anyway. (Foxeye)
My spots are wired into the main supply to the side lamps that way they come on with side lights, and as the side lights stay on with the headlamps therefore so do the spots. The other good thing about wiring them this was is 'Ignition Off' everything off, so it is not possible to leave the spots on without realising it in the daytime when parked up, :rolleyes no flattening the bike battery.
Jobs-a-gudun.
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Is "cree" a brand? And between you i have links to 10w and 30w lights but there are some cheaper ones on ebay saying 125w, i take it those are bollocks and you get what you pay for?
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My understanding is that Cree is the type of LED used in these lamps rather than a brand.
See Below:
Cree Inc. is a multinational manufacturer of semiconductor light-emitting diode (LED) materials and devices, with its headquarters in Durham, North Carolina. Most of its products are based on silicon carbide.
Good old Wiki
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Not sure if this is going to work or not video from my phone, might try it with Go-Pro if it does not work
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Hey it did work, double click the link to download 3 or 4 second video. :woot
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You will probably notice that I do not leave my wandercators on by mistake either lol
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I have my Hazard warning indicators on and it took me 5 shots to catch it with them on, :'( the other four pics were caught between the flashes.
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That looks decent mate! Not convinced on the white V on the screen though.
These are the cheap 125w ones
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644)
Its a mine field eBay at times!
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That looks decent mate! Not convinced on the white V on the screen though.
These are the cheap 125w ones
Look at this on eBay [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644[/url])
Its a mine field eBay at times!
Yeah I saw those when I was looking a while back, but opted for the lower wattage ones, I'm sure they will be really bright but the problem is that you are adding another 250Watt load on the bikes charging system along with all the other lights that you will have on at the time.
Standard 2002-2003 FZS600 power consumption is (I would Imagine) 2 X 55 watt dipped headlights , 2 X 5 watt rear tail lights, 2 X 5 watt front sidelights, plus maybe another 10 watts for the instrument lights.
That's a total of approx 140 watts, with the spots you are proposing you are adding an extra 250 watts load on the generator, I not convinced it would keep up and if it did I would have to ask how long for.
The total lighting load on your generator would be 390 watts, that well over a third of a kilowatt.
My lighting system total load is 200 watts, I have to admit I was a bit concerned about my generator having to work to hard when I first fitted them, but so far all is good.
When I get back from a ride I plug the battery conditioner (Oxford) in straight away and it always goes straight to Maintain Mode, indicating that the battery is fully charged.
On the other hand the Cree spots that you supplied the link for when I was first looking for spots they were between £28 and £32 a pair.
It may well be that the generator would handle the added load of these 250 watt a pair spots. I am sure there is a foccer out there that could throw some light on the subject (Haha no pun intended)
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That looks decent mate! Not convinced on the white V on the screen though.
These are the cheap 125w ones
Look at this on eBay [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644[/url])
Its a mine field eBay at times!
Yeah mixed feelings from people about the V on the screen, they are professional quality ribbon of 18 LEDs each side of the V about 24 watts in total, they are fitted to the inside of the screen. Again these are also wired into the sidelight system so they are on with the other lights as you can see in the picture, but I have a switch fitted to the fairing infill panel to the live supply to the LEDs so I can turn them off at night when riding as they throw a bit of light back in my face, plus I wear glasses that doesn't help with the glare, but I guess it would be the same with just the visor.
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That looks decent mate! Not convinced on the white V on the screen though.
These are the cheap 125w ones
Look at this on eBay [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262749223644[/url])
Its a mine field eBay at times!
Yeah I saw those when I was looking a while back, but opted for the lower wattage ones, I'm sure they will be really bright but the problem is that you are adding another 250Watt load on the bikes charging system along with all the other lights that you will have on at the time.
Standard 2002-2003 FZS600 power consumption is (I would Imagine) 2 X 55 watt dipped headlights , 2 X 5 watt rear tail lights, 2 X 5 watt front sidelights, plus maybe another 10 watts for the instrument lights.
That's a total of approx 140 watts, with the spots you are proposing you are adding an extra 250 watts load on the generator, I not convinced it would keep up and if it did I would have to ask how long for.
The total lighting load on your generator would be 390 watts, that well over a third of a kilowatt.
My lighting system total load is 200 watts, I have to admit I was a bit concerned about my generator having to work to hard when I first fitted them, but so far all is good.
When I get back from a ride I plug the battery conditioner (Oxford) in straight away and it always goes straight to Maintain Mode, indicating that the battery is fully charged.
On the other hand the Cree spots that you supplied the link for when I was first looking for spots they were between £28 and £32 a pair.
It may well be that the generator would handle the added load of these 250 watt a pair spots. I am sure there is a foccer out there that could throw some light on the subject (Haha no pun intended)
Yes good and valid point, they're bikes, not industrial diesel powered generators :rollin
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Just looked again at the advert for the spot lights, and, I am confused as to what power consumption they actually are.
See Below, Cut and Pasted from the advert on eBay:
Light power 125 watts actual power 15 watts, your guess is as good as mine
Description: This is high quality 125W super bright Spot Light waterproof LED head light.The World's top American original For CREE-U5 light bead, outside the brightness of the starts.Night driving be obviously strong pillar.Unique square spot.Suitable for pavement, super province electricity, night driving more fuel efficient.Technical Parameters:LED Chip: CREE XML U5 Light Power:125W Actual power:15W 3 Lighting Modes: High, Low, FlashEnvironment Temperature: -40-40 degree centigradeFlux: 3000LMLed color temperature: 6000K-7000KInput Voltage:12V-80V DCMaterial: Aluminum alloy, PC LensRange: 200 metersWaterproof: IP65Body Color: Black & SilverProduct Size: 134 x 110 x 78mmProduct Weight: 352g (1pcs light)Package Size: 180 x 135 x 125mmUniversal Fit motorcycles, bicycles, bike, cars, trucks, boat.Red wire positive & Black wire negative.Package includes:2pcs Spotlight
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I can't imagine for a moment they consume 125W. I think the point they are making is that they are 15W lamps, but because they are LEDs they give out light equivalent to 125W bulbs. But I'm no electrician ......
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I just ordered the same as Frosties, was gonna get 30w but they seemed a bit savage.
Only thing bothering me is i read they should have their own on/off switch, but i'm looking into that.
Sounds like a good idea anyway, i prefer stuff to be off to save the battery on start up.
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I just ordered the same as Frosties, was gonna get 30w but they seemed a bit savage.
Only thing bothering me is i read they should have their own on/off switch, but i'm looking into that.
Sounds like a good idea anyway, i prefer stuff to be off to save the battery on start up.
We will naturally require post install pics :D
1 switch http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152224874286?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152224874286?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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I've seen a bike with green spots on the front. What a twat I say, they're like giving the green light to be hit
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I've seen a bike with green spots on the front. What a twat I say, they're like giving the green light to be hit
Ba-dum dum.....tsssss
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Hiya fella,
I've bought and fitted these to my boxeye and they make a hell of a diffence. Will get a pic up asap.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url])
Used a fuse tap to link into a switched circuit on the bike [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url])
I've bolted them straight to the top bolt of the radiator side plate. I know what you're thinking but a damaged rad is the least of my worries if the bike goes down hard.
That's the wrong link for the fuse tap isn't it? :groan
I'm waiting for it to turn up but just noticed it says "mini blade". :'(
That's put a proper spanner in the works as I need it for tomorrow morning, anyone know of a shop that sells them?
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Hi Darrsi,
I made exactly the same mistake a few weeks back regarding the mini blade taplink.It's a pisser when you wait for the delivery, you're all set to get on with the project and the wrong foccing thing drops out of the envelope.I feel for ya bud.
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Hiya fella,
I've bought and fitted these to my boxeye and they make a hell of a diffence. Will get a pic up asap.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url])
Used a fuse tap to link into a switched circuit on the bike [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url])
I've bolted them straight to the top bolt of the radiator side plate. I know what you're thinking but a damaged rad is the least of my worries if the bike goes down hard.
That's the wrong link for the fuse tap isn't it? :groan
I'm waiting for it to turn up but just noticed it says "mini blade". :'(
That's put a proper spanner in the works as I need it for tomorrow morning, anyone know of a shop that sells them?
Glad I read your post first, as I was just about to load up evilbay and order everyting.
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Hi Darrsi,
I made exactly the same mistake a few weeks back regarding the mini blade taplink.It's a pisser when you wait for the delivery, you're all set to get on with the project and the wrong foccing thing drops out of the envelope.I feel for ya bud.
Paid £3.50 for two of those mini blade ones, now gonna have to go and pay £7.99 for one at Halfrauds.
I only need one as well, luckily.
http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-blade-add-a-fuse (http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-blade-add-a-fuse)
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Hiya fella,
I've bought and fitted these to my boxeye and they make a hell of a diffence. Will get a pic up asap.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url])
Used a fuse tap to link into a switched circuit on the bike [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url])
I've bolted them straight to the top bolt of the radiator side plate. I know what you're thinking but a damaged rad is the least of my worries if the bike goes down hard.
That's the wrong link for the fuse tap isn't it? :groan
I'm waiting for it to turn up but just noticed it says "mini blade". :'(
That's put a proper spanner in the works as I need it for tomorrow morning, anyone know of a shop that sells them?
Glad I read your post first, as I was just about to load up evilbay and order everyting.
I've got the lights, cable and everything else I need, the fuse taps were posted to me on the 11th December, obviously from Outer Mongolia, still not got them, not that it matters now anyway.
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FROSTIES.....I think you may need to change that link, maybe with a little note that it's been altered correctly.
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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh crap - really sorry fellas. Yup....I am a complete tw@ :wall :wall :groan
Correct link below
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170709632237?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170709632237?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
If it's any concellation, it does look good and is very effective when done :look
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No worries fella, spotted it in time, so all is good. ;)
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What size fuse are you meant to use for these 10w LED lights?
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What size fuse are you meant to use for these 10w LED lights?
Just asked the same question to my electrician friend and he said a 2 or 3 amp should be fine.
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All fitted now, but for some unknown reason my indicator beeper now only works with the spotlights switched off?
Dunno what's going on there?
All i know is that it was bloody cold outside.
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All fitted now, but for some unknown reason my indicator beeper now only works with the spotlights switched off?
Dunno what's going on there?
All i know is that it was bloody cold outside.
Have you wired them in with the headlights so they work off the headlight switch or have you wired in a aux switch and run direct from the battery?
And yes it is a tad chilly out there :lol
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I bought a handlebar waterproof on/off switch, and the only place the fuse tap would fit was on my air horn wiring.
I don't wire anything direct to the battery, it's generally a bad idea in case you forget to switch off.
My mate did the wiring for me, i'm shit at electrics, but he never went near the beeper wiring.
It did all work correctly if the lights were wired directly to the battery though.
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I just wondered as I'm crap with electronics too and I'm just looking for the simplest way to wire it all up. I think I'm going to just wire up directly to the battery and hope I don't ever forget to turn them off :lol
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I just wondered as I'm crap with electronics too and I'm just looking for the simplest way to wire it all up. I think I'm going to just wire up directly to the battery and hope I don't ever forget to turn them off :lol
You gotta be realistic about these things, YOU WILL forget, for whatever reason, it's just one of those things.
How long for will then decide on whether you have any juice left in the battery to start the bike, probably in the middle of nowhere, when it's cold and raining. :lol
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I bought a handlebar waterproof on/off switch, and the only place the fuze tap would fit was on my air horn wiring.
I don't wire anything direct to the battery, it's generally a bad idea in case you forget to switch off.
My mate did the wiring for me, i'm shit at electrics, but he never went near the beeper wiring.
It did all work correctly if the lights were wired directly to the battery though.
Where's the piccies then - rules are rules :deal
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I just wondered as I'm crap with electronics too and I'm just looking for the simplest way to wire it all up. I think I'm going to just wire up directly to the battery and hope I don't ever forget to turn them off :lol
Mate - with a fuse tap it's a piece of piss. Will happily post up a how to. If you can wire a plug you can do this and ignition off will mean ALL off :thumbup
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I just wondered as I'm crap with electronics too and I'm just looking for the simplest way to wire it all up. I think I'm going to just wire up directly to the battery and hope I don't ever forget to turn them off :lol
Mate - with a fuse tap it's a piece of piss. Will happily post up a how to. If you can wire a plug you can do this and ignition off will mean ALL off :thumbup
Out of curiosity which fuse did you share with the tap, and where?
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The photos don't really do it justice.
Bear in mind these are spot lights, and they are aiming downwards, they don't really spread the light like the headlight (should).
So apart from daytime running lights, i wanted them for more light on the floor in front of me so i can have a better chance of seeing pot holes.
I was gonna get brighter but these are just the 10 watt ones in Frosties link and they have proved to be more than good enough, plus after looking about i noticed they had an easier chance of movement for direction, plus fitted nice and easy on the radiatior on the top side screw, whereas most others needed a bar to be clamped to.
Turns out the radiator bolts could be used again without the need to change them.
And by pure luck i got the distance set spot on, without the need to adjust them again when it turned dark. The light distance is good but you'll note it's nowhere near the top of the drivers seat to dazzle or blind anyone.
Think i have Philips Xtreme bulbs in my headlights, which are not cheap and highly recommended, yet the 2 spotlights still outperform them due to the crappy reflector housing in the headlight unit.
This is a great mod for older bikes with naff lighting.
First picture is with spotlights and (both) headlights.
Second is just with (both) headlights.
Concentrate more on the floor lighting, which as you can see is much "whiter and brighter",which is appropriate as my name is Daz. :D
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I just wondered as I'm crap with electronics too and I'm just looking for the simplest way to wire it all up. I think I'm going to just wire up directly to the battery and hope I don't ever forget to turn them off :lol
Mate - with a fuse tap it's a piece of piss. Will happily post up a how to. If you can wire a plug you can do this and ignition off will mean ALL off :thumbup
Yes please :thumbup However I have been known to even wire up a plug wrong so don't be suprised if you see a post with me stating "I got my mate to wire it up as I focked it up" :lol
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FROSTIES, i'm still curious as to which fuse you tapped into with the splitter gadget?
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Wire then directly into the side light circuit, when the side lights are on so are the LED spots, also the side lights stay on with the headlights, so LED light are still on with the headlights.
Switch the headlights off ,side lights and LED's still on, switch all light off LED's off.
Leave all the lights on and switch the ignition off and all the lights go off anyway.
It's impossible to leave them turned on wired this way. One less switch to go wrong, less clutter on the handle bars, less to wire up.
Easy peasy.
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Oh! and another added bonus, no fused tap needed.
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i wanted them for more light on the floor in front of me so i can have a better chance of seeing pot holes.Concentrate more on the floor lighting,
WOW you really can see a lot more than before
Picture below
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I tapped into sidelight circuit , put an inline 3 amp fuse, not sure if it was necessary then a switch to turn them on separately, But if I forget to switch them off they go off when I switch ignition off anyway.
Had them on for over a year now with no problems, not bad for about £25 for both lights, switch and wire.
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i wanted them for more light on the floor in front of me so i can have a better chance of seeing pot holes.Concentrate more on the floor lighting,
WOW you really can see a lot more than before
Picture below
Hahaha, crikey that's just a bit too good. :lol
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FROSTIES, i'm still curious as to which fuse you tapped into with the splitter gadget?
Liking the results fella - like me the crisp white light really does the job and I reckon lays down about as much light as a car :thumbup
Wired mine into the heated grips circuit which had a separate fuse. The feed for the grips is via a relay from the rear brake circuit.
I did try the tap in the central fuse box but found the cover wouldn't close properly.......was prepared to do this and simply gaffer tape the fuse box but changed my mind.
Lots of ways as you know to wire these lights in as mentioned by others - depends on available time I suppose.
I reckon if you went for the central fuse box and gaffer tape approach then you'd have it all done in an hour - allow double for wiring into other circuits.
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Wire then directly into the side light circuit, when the side lights are on so are the LED spots, also the side lights stay on with the headlights, so LED light are still on with the headlights.
Switch the headlights off ,side lights and LED's still on, switch all light off LED's off.
Leave all the lights on and switch the ignition off and all the lights go off anyway.
It's impossible to leave them turned on wired this way. One less switch to go wrong, less clutter on the handle bars, less to wire up.
Easy peasy.
Side lights?
Don't forget you have a different bike to me, so your fairing is a bit more advanced.
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FROSTIES, i'm still curious as to which fuse you tapped into with the splitter gadget?
Liking the results fella - like me the crisp white light really does the job and I reckon lays down about as much light as a car :thumbup
Wired mine into the heated grips circuit which had a separate fuse. The feed for the grips is via a relay from the rear brake circuit.
I did try the tap in the central fuse box but found the cover wouldn't close properly.......was prepared to do this and simply gaffer tape the fuse box but changed my mind.
Lots of ways as you know to wire these lights in as mentioned by others - depends on available time I suppose.
I reckon if you went for the central fuse box and gaffer tape approach then you'd have it all done in an hour - allow double for wiring into other circuits.
As we found out the fuse box under the seat was a no go as the fuse tap doesn't fit into it at all unless you maybe start cutting a panel out of the lid somewhere which was really the thing to do.
There was a wire with a fuse on already outside the fuse box that was part of my air horn wiring, so we used that.
But as i said before, now the indicator beeping system only works with the spot lights switched off, then stop working with the lights switched on, which is a bit puzzling as we didn't go anywhere near or tamper with the beeper wiring at the front of the bike?
I put the beeper indicating gadget on my bike because i was fed up with people walking out in front of me without looking as i was about to lean to turn into the road where i live. I either had to keep waiting for them to cross before me, or use the air horn on them, but what i found with the air horn was that people did a little panic dance deciding whether to go backwards or forwards, or it would just simply make them jump. It all got a bit like Groundhog Day so i decided to put the beeper on to pre-warn them i'm approaching. It works most of the time and has been a big improvement, but for those special ones that just don't look or listen they still get the full air horn blast to wake them up. :evil
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The beeper issue is a weird one. Worked fine before the spots were wired in but now works with lights off but not when they are on....WTF.
Do you know how the beeper is wired in....from the indicator relay?
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i wanted them for more light on the floor in front of me so i can have a better chance of seeing pot holes.Concentrate more on the floor lighting,
WOW you really can see a lot more than before
Picture below
Hahaha, crikey that's just a bit too good. :lol
I couldn't resist, it was crying out for it
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21527.0;attach=27418;image)
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If your bike doesn't have a sidelight supply /sidelights you can wire the spots into the live supply that goes to the dipswitch, the negative wire goes to the chassis of the bike
(Whats commonly known as ground or Earth)
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i wanted them for more light on the floor in front of me so i can have a better chance of seeing pot holes.Concentrate more on the floor lighting,
WOW you really can see a lot more than before
Picture below
Hahaha, crikey that's just a bit too good. :lol
I couldn't resist, it was crying out for it
([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21527.0;attach=27418;image[/url])
Hey Sharpie I bet you do brisk business in wedding photographs, you know! make the bride look good and all that stuff.
Or do you work for the police incriminating innocent people lol!
Great bit of work :thumbup
I love it
:lol
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i wanted them for more light on the floor in front of me so i can have a better chance of seeing pot holes.Concentrate more on the floor lighting,
WOW you really can see a lot more than before
Picture below
Hahaha, crikey that's just a bit too good. :lol
I couldn't resist, it was crying out for it
([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21527.0;attach=27418;image[/url])
Hey Sharpie I bet you do brisk business in wedding photographs, you know! make the bride look good and all that stuff.
Or do you work for the police incriminating innocent people lol!
Great bit of work :thumbup
I love it
:lol
My neighbour was out in the driveway yesterday looking for a leak, and i mentioned to him i had taken a photo and noticed a damp patch on the right of the picture.
So i sent him this photo by Whatsapp yesterday........no response yet. :lol
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Hoping to getting around to fitting me second hand givis today, had some twat pull out in front of me and the missus in Cheltenham yesterday, which was nice, on top of slippery roads and braving the hurricane..
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Great bit of work :thumbup
I love it
:lol
I was going to put a rat running across the drive but thought this would be better.
My neighbour was out in the driveway yesterday looking for a leak, and i mentioned to him i had taken a photo and noticed a damp patch on the right of the picture.
So i sent him this photo by Whatsapp yesterday........no response yet. :lol
He's probably too scarred to say anything :lol
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i wanted them for more light on the floor in front of me so i can have a better chance of seeing pot holes.Concentrate more on the floor lighting,
WOW you really can see a lot more than before
Picture below
Hahaha, crikey that's just a bit too good. :lol
I couldn't resist, it was crying out for it
([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21527.0;attach=27418;image[/url])
Hey Sharpie I bet you do brisk business in wedding photographs, you know! make the bride look good and all that stuff.
Or do you work for the police incriminating innocent people lol!
Great bit of work :thumbup
I love it
:lol
My neighbour was out in the driveway yesterday looking for a leak, and i mentioned to him i had taken a photo and noticed a damp patch on the right of the picture.
So i sent him this photo by Whatsapp yesterday........no response yet. :lol
You know why he has not responded as yet? He moved house immediately after receiving that picture, the houses up your lane are now valued at £12,000.
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Hey Darrsi, are you still checking out how good your lights are in shop windows and the rear of cars when sitting behind them ???
I'm still loving mine on all my bikes and find myself turning them off on dimly lit roads to see the difference. Sad fecker or what :lol
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Hey Darrsi, are you still checking out how good your lights are in shop windows and the rear of cars when sitting behind them ???
I'm still loving mine on all my bikes and find myself turning them off on dimly lit roads to see the difference. Sad fecker or what :lol
Still not been on the bike since they were fitted to be honest.
And got another week off yet to sort out the beeper issue as well.
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Everyone still pleased with these 10w lights?.... I'm tempted!
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I've got the same on the Bandit aswell as the Fazer :thumbup
As said before, if you include fuse taps and a switch then it's less than £25 all in. I appreciate you're a Northener but c'mon eh :pokefun
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We northerners haven't got £25s to throw away like the affluent southerners....We need to spend carefully up here.
But we do have the best roads and scenery 😁
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I am a proper northerner, born in Scotland and live in Yorkshire, being tight is a religion to me but I am willing to break into the piggy bank if it helps some blind cager see me.
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:agree .....totally agree, c'mon Turpin - DO IT :lol . Seriously, you won't regret it fella and will wonder how you managed without them. In addition, up t'north you lot get less daylight hours than us down here so you need them more :pokefun
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:agree .....totally agree, c'mon Turpin - DO IT :lol . Seriously, you won't regret it fella and will wonder how you managed without them. In addition, up t'north you lot get less daylight hours than us down here so you need them more :pokefun
[/quote
LOL 😂😂😂
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Frosties......I got a Bandit, can you pm me with the ins and outs of how and where you fitted them......my pooter doesn't open some of the links ppl post on here...especially pics
cheers
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I went out on the bike earlier and the lights do make a great difference.
Shame i couldn't sort out the indicator beeper issue though, it just won't work when the sidelights are switched on?
Tried wiring it a different way but still wouldn't have it.
It's no big deal, i just got used to it that's all.
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Frosties......I got a Bandit, can you pm me with the ins and outs of how and where you fitted them......my pooter doesn't open some of the links ppl post on here...especially pics
cheers
Will post up pics of the Bandit tomorrow fella :thumbup
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Frosties......I got a Bandit, can you pm me with the ins and outs of how and where you fitted them......my pooter doesn't open some of the links ppl post on here...especially pics
cheers
Hiya fella, sorry for the delay........booze etc :lol . Wired these the same as Slappy - Quote "I tapped into sidelight circuit , put an inline 3 amp fuse, not sure if it was necessary then a switch to turn them on separately, But if I forget to switch them off they go off when I switch ignition off anyway."
1st pic is mount the same as Fazer on the top side mount of rad side plate. 2nd pic headlight only. 3rd with spots and 4th with spots and hazards on so you can see how much the indicators are not affected.
]As said before, the pics really don'y do them any justice - especially as it wasn't dark at the time of taking pics.
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cheers mate, looking good
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First time out tonight in the dark with the new lights.
Makes a big difference, i've got them aiming right down, giving me about 35 feet of extra light on the floor but they're not in anyone's eyes at all in oncoming vehicles.
I went down a few dark side roads and switched them off then on again and the difference was very noticeable compared to just the headlights, even though i've got Phillips Xtreme bulbs in the headlights the new sidelights gave off a much whiter and brighter light on the floor. But even in daylight they are really bright as well.
Well worth doing, job's a good'un. :thumbup
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Finally got the last of my order, now I just need to find some time to get it all fitted and during daylight as I don't have power in my garage.
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Guys,
I didn't find any infos about the waterproofing of both options of lamps. Did anyone had problems?
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Guys,
I didn't find any infos about the waterproofing of both options of lamps. Did anyone had problems?
They're waterproof already.
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Looking at the pictures I'm thinking do they make seeing the indicators difficult for drivers especially in daylight. I see some cars with DRL that turn off the side that is indicating so there must be an issue.
If its seeing better in the dark that is needed if you only ride in the city then there is no need, so maybe and on off switch that is connected to the high beam switch ? And I suppose that you will need to disconnect them for the MOT too.
If it is for beeing better seen by others then what about a couple mounted in that little gap under the MK fairing - seems made for it, not sure on the MK 2 but either way better under the fairing than next to the indicators.
What about in an insurance claim the driver says he did not see your indicators because of the spots next to them.
Discuss
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Looking at the pictures I'm thinking do they make seeing the indicators difficult for drivers especially in daylight. I see some cars with DRL that turn off the side that is indicating so there must be an issue.
If its seeing better in the dark that is needed if you only ride in the city then there is no need, so maybe and on off switch that is connected to the high beam switch ? And I suppose that you will need to disconnect them for the MOT too.
If it is for beeing better seen by others then what about a couple mounted in that little gap under the MK fairing - seems made for it, not sure on the MK 2 but either way better under the fairing than next to the indicators.
What about in an insurance claim the driver says he did not see your indicators because of the spots next to them.
Discuss
Question's already been discussed on Page 1 of this thread.
I use the headlights and spotlights at night, the spots light up the road ahead for me probably 5 times more than the headlights ever did, plus they have a much nicer white light. And the headlight stays on, probably because it's the law, but gives me a wider and more general beam, albeit in a shitty colour in comparison..
In the daytime i now only use the spotlights, without need for the headlights, which also takes unnecessary strain off the battery.
There is no problem with the indicators, the spotlight beam aims down on the road, so isn't dazzling peoples eyes, and they don't really have a wide beam like the headlights do.
Even when you pull up behind a car in traffic you can really notice how bright they are by looking at other cars headlights beaming on the car in front of them.
I bought a separate waterproof on/off switch for a few reasons, like plod, MOT (won't be a problem) and starting the bike with all lights and accessories switched off.
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Fitted my spot lights a while ago but just not had the chance to get pics until now, so here they are.
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Looking good fella :thumbup . You reckon people see you more now?
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Looking good fella :thumbup . You reckon people see you more now?
Too bloody right unless they are in a BMW, Audi or a new styled Land Rover because they just don't FOCCING look :lol people are really shocked at how bright they are when I tell them that they are only 10watt. The only problem I have with them is I'm still trying to work out how how to wire them into the ignition switch, I know it's probably easy but it takes a few attempts to just wire up a plug socket :lol
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Looking good fella :thumbup . You reckon people see you more now?
Too bloody right unless they are in a BMW, Audi or a new styled Land Rover because they just don't FOCCING look :lol people are really shocked at how bright they are when I tell them that they are only 10watt. The only problem I have with them is I'm still trying to work out how how to wire them into the ignition switch, I know it's probably easy but it takes a few attempts to just wire up a plug socket :lol
You need a mate called Steve, i've had one for years, he's not colour blind, thinks outside the box, and is basically a thoroughly decent bloke to ever wish to have the pleasure to ever know him as a true friend. He probably classes me as a nuisance, but we can't all be perfect. :thumbup
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Looking good fella :thumbup . You reckon people see you more now?
Too bloody right unless they are in a BMW, Audi or a new styled Land Rover because they just don't FOCCING look :lol people are really shocked at how bright they are when I tell them that they are only 10watt. The only problem I have with them is I'm still trying to work out how how to wire them into the ignition switch, I know it's probably easy but it takes a few attempts to just wire up a plug socket :lol
You need a mate called Steve, i've had one for years, he's not colour blind, thinks outside the box, and is basically a thoroughly decent bloke to ever wish to have the pleasure to ever know him as a true friend. He probably classes me as a nuisance, but we can't all be perfect. :thumbup
I've got a few friends that have the skills, knowledge & tools to do the job but none of them seem to be able to spare the time to help me out. I'm not panicking about getting it done as I have breakdown cover if the battery goes dead plus I have a bit of OCD when it comes to making sure everything is turned off when parking the bike up :lol
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I went a bit mad with my money when I had my last bike and bought a pair of Clearwater darlas. Outrageously expensive but unbelievably bright and dimmable for daytime use. They can be varied between 10 to 50% brightness on dipped beam and go to full power on main. I know it's an old cliché but they turn night into day, Riding along the A75 from Cairnryan to Carlisle in the pitch dark and pouring rain they showed up the cat's eyes and road signs for miles ahead. They're only about 2'' in diameter so are quite inconspicuous on the bike and really well put together. I took them off before I sold the bike and plan to have them fitted to my Fazer at some point soon. Awesome lights.
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Vinny - for that 'kin price I'd want more than night into day....I'd want God riding in front with his arse facing forwards to light up the road.
They look great with the variable output etc but I can't think of anyone who'd pay that much - were doing it for £25 all in.
https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-r1200gsaw (https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-r1200gsaw)
Buuut you pays your money........
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:lol Oh well your only here once. They really are brilliant lights but maybe slightly on the pricey side. Not thinking of buying yourself a set then I take it?
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Looking at the pictures I'm thinking do they make seeing the indicators difficult for drivers especially in daylight. I see some cars with DRL that turn off the side that is indicating so there must be an issue.
If its seeing better in the dark that is needed if you only ride in the city then there is no need, so maybe and on off switch that is connected to the high beam switch ? And I suppose that you will need to disconnect them for the MOT too.
If it is for beeing better seen by others then what about a couple mounted in that little gap under the MK fairing - seems made for it, not sure on the MK 2 but either way better under the fairing than next to the indicators.
What about in an insurance claim the driver says he did not see your indicators because of the spots next to them.
Discuss
My understanding is that they must to be able to be switched off to do the headlight and dipped beam test for the mot. I have a spade type push on connector on mine under the right hand side fairing infill panel
that I unplugged for my mot last week. 1 minute job to re-plug after mot done.
My spots are wired through the side light circuit on my foxeye. So lights off all off, ignition off all off.
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Looking at the pictures I'm thinking do they make seeing the indicators difficult for drivers especially in daylight. I see some cars with DRL that turn off the side that is indicating so there must be an issue.
If its seeing better in the dark that is needed if you only ride in the city then there is no need, so maybe and on off switch that is connected to the high beam switch ? And I suppose that you will need to disconnect them for the MOT too.
If it is for beeing better seen by others then what about a couple mounted in that little gap under the MK fairing - seems made for it, not sure on the MK 2 but either way better under the fairing than next to the indicators.
What about in an insurance claim the driver says he did not see your indicators because of the spots next to them.
Discuss
My understanding is that they must to be able to be switched off to do the headlight and dipped beam test for the mot. I have a spade type push on connector on mine under the right hand side fairing infill panel
that I unplugged for my mot last week. 1 minute job to re-plug after mot done.
My spots are wired through the side light circuit on my foxeye. So lights off all off, ignition off all off.
You can see the indicators very clearly with them on so any driver that states they couldn't see the indicator are telling porkies, the only way they wouldn't is if you have the beam too high like a lot of GS riders that I've seen and it that situation I would be slowing to stop as I would be being blinded and I'm not going to make a turn if I can't see.
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Looking at the pictures I'm thinking do they make seeing the indicators difficult for drivers especially in daylight. I see some cars with DRL that turn off the side that is indicating so there must be an issue.
If its seeing better in the dark that is needed if you only ride in the city then there is no need, so maybe and on off switch that is connected to the high beam switch ? And I suppose that you will need to disconnect them for the MOT too.
If it is for beeing better seen by others then what about a couple mounted in that little gap under the MK fairing - seems made for it, not sure on the MK 2 but either way better under the fairing than next to the indicators.
What about in an insurance claim the driver says he did not see your indicators because of the spots next to them.
Discuss
My understanding is that they must to be able to be switched off to do the headlight and dipped beam test for the mot. I have a spade type push on connector on mine under the right hand side fairing infill panel
that I unplugged for my mot last week. 1 minute job to re-plug after mot done.
My spots are wired through the side light circuit on my foxeye. So lights off all off, ignition off all off.
That's why I put an extra switch on mine, even though they are wired to come on with the headlight because the separate on/off switch is there it passes mot. Doesn`t make the indicators harder to see either.
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Hiya fella,
I've bought and fitted these to my boxeye and they make a hell of a diffence. Will get a pic up asap.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url])
Used a fuse tap to link into a switched circuit on the bike [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url])
I've bolted them straight to the top bolt of the radiator side plate. I know what you're thinking but a damaged rad is the least of my worries if the bike goes down hard.
Thank you very much... I'll get them
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Nice one Nick. We do however have to apply forum rules and demand pics of them when fitted lighting up somewhere dark :thumbup . We like pics we do :lol
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Hiya fella,
I've bought and fitted these to my boxeye and they make a hell of a diffence. Will get a pic up asap.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Lamp-Driving-Fog-ATV-Motorcycle-4WD-Boat-UK-SHIP-/331903321625?hash=item4d46fac619:g:BMsAAOSwbYZXf0sF[/url])
Used a fuse tap to link into a switched circuit on the bike [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Add-A-Circuit-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Splice-Holder-ATM-APM-Piggy-Back-Fuses-Tap-12V-/151973106702?hash=item23624d940e:g:3HQAAOSw3ydV5lbw[/url])
I've bolted them straight to the top bolt of the radiator side plate. I know what you're thinking but a damaged rad is the least of my worries if the bike goes down hard.
This morning before leaving to go to work I noticed that one of my spotlights (same as above link) has stopped working. :'(
I've not had a chance to check it out yet, but does anyone know off the top of their head if they have changeable LED bulbs or do I need to buy another set to change the whole light unit?
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The ones I bought were a fixed bulb, not replaceable without soldering capabilities.
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The ones I bought were a fixed bulb, not replaceable without soldering capabilities.
I have soldering equipment at work, plus electronics engineers to give me a hand if needed too so that's not an issue.
I'll have it apart in my lunch break and see what I can find. Bit annoying though, I expected them to last a lot longer than 6 or 7 months. :(
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Had a look at the spotlight unit at lunch time, there is power going to it so it's not the wiring.
One of my electronic engineers is gonna take the board out by unsoldering it tomorrow and give it a once over. I'm hoping it's just a dry joint or something simple.
If it's fooked i'll have to buy another set and replace it, plus then have a spare.
I've found them to be invaluable out on the road, night or day, so really want it sorted asap.
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Took the board out of the spotlight and it is the LED that's blown. :'(
Also not only is it extremely difficult to remove because of the way it's obviously been manufactured by machine, we couldn't source any replacement LED's that were guaranteed to be the same sort of light, so I've just ordered another pair of spotlights and i'll get the board swapped over when it arrives, plus have a spare one in case it happens again.
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Had a look at the spotlight unit at lunch time, there is power going to it so it's not the wiring.
One of my electronic engineers is gonna take the board out by unsoldering it tomorrow and give it a once over. I'm hoping it's just a dry joint or something simple.
If it's fooked i'll have to buy another set and replace it, plus then have a spare.
I've found them to be invaluable out on the road, night or day, so really want it sorted asap.
Yesterday the spotlight on the other side stopped working as well, so a pair lasted around 10 months.
Not impressed by that at all, but will still replace it as without them now i feel like i have no lights at all.
The headlights are just shit.
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Could be a bad batch - both sets of mine still going strong over a year later. Even if they did only last a year each time, I'd happily pay £15 a year for the benefits. £200 -£300 variable output LED spots might last you longer................
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Could be a bad batch - both sets of mine still going strong over a year later. Even if they did only last a year each time, I'd happily pay £15 a year for the benefits. £200 -£300 variable output LED spots might last you longer................
That's the thing, when i rode home the other night without them i realized how useful they really are.
And i said the same the other day that i wouldn't mind paying £20 a year either.
On this latest light i put bullet connectors on it rather than soldering it so i can do a quick and easy swap next time if necessary.
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https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-1 (https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-1)
I had these on my BMW and had them removed before I sold it. I'm going to fit them onto the Fazer when I work out how to fix them to the engine bars. They're incredible and were still working perfectly after 3 years but they're not very cheap.
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https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-1 (https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-1)
I had these on my BMW and had them removed before I sold it. I'm going to fit them onto the Fazer when I work out how to fix them to the engine bars. They're incredible and were still working perfectly after 3 years but they're not very cheap.
Feck me.........that's 20 - or so pairs (or 20 yrs) compared to the ones we use.......but like I always say, you pays yer money etc,
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https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-1 (https://www.clearwaterlights.com/products/darla-1)
I had these on my BMW and had them removed before I sold it. I'm going to fit them onto the Fazer when I work out how to fix them to the engine bars. They're incredible and were still working perfectly after 3 years but they're not very cheap.
Feck me.........that's 20 - or so pairs (or 20 yrs) compared to the ones we use.......but like I always say, you pays yer money etc,
Yeah, for the price of two pairs of them i’d just buy another bike with spotlights already fitted. :lol
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you can get 3 of these for a pound, I jusrt need to work out how to fix them to the bike ?!?
(https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51AUJvaPMoL._SY355_.jpg)
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Sorry to bring back up this thread, but how have you found the longevity of these lights?
I had some fitted for just over a year now, same as tommyardin and slappy, much lower down mounted on top of the standard Yammy low engine crash bars. In that time, I've had no end of hassle with the bolt that goes through the supplied mounts and threads on the the alu body of the lights giving up leaving me with spinning lights that just fling to side to light up hedge row... Tried lock tight and all sorts, but ultimately the threads on the light bodies are shite. Swapped with longer bolts now with a nut on inside - bit of faff to tighten up, but held much better.
I've also had hassle with water ingress into the lenses, with moisture on the inside taking ages to dry out. Have to pop them open to clean and dry them out.
Mine also came with a handle bar mounted switch, and loom with relay. The switch has recently given up ghost, only turning them on if the rocker is in some half way state, where it never stays whilst riding.
They also have some weird flashing mode that you can activate by flicking them on and off quickly. But this always seems to get activated when you don't want it. Especially when the above switch was playing up and power was being cut intermittently.
I have to agree to think they do help with filtering, especially through winter and dusk/dark conditions. Definitely get the impression of more people noticing me, though these things are always hard to confirm, it could just be my perception. Now I'm in two minds as to bin them, try bypassing switch and hooking relay to side lights instead, or splashing out on new, better ones.
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My lights and switch are still working perfectly, even after being removed from my old FZ1s and now refitted to my MT09.
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The ones I fitted to the Bandit (same as ones on Fazer - 2nd post) are still going strong. Ride all year round and bike used to London and back each day so nearly 2yrs at 3hrs a day.
The ones fitted to the CBF - 30w jobbies let water in and tarnished the lense. The CBF failed just like my 1st CBF so outed it.
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The CBF failed just like my 1st CBF so outed it.
You broke L'Bob?
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Didn't kill him Bob...he committed suicide.
The 1st CBF had the dreaded tps/ECU issue. Still have bike and need £1800 to fix.
L'Bob wouldn't charge the battery so checked it out and found the rectifier shot. Replaced it and then found alternator shot....wtf!! Replaced alternator and then the battery went. Replaced battery and the feckin rectifier went again.
Found after that on these CBF's and other Hondas that you need to replace alternator, rectifier and battery all at the same time if the rectifier or alternator go. If you only replace one part then the new good part screws the others.
After all that I was waiting for the dreaded tps issue to raise it's head on L'Bob. Couldn't feel that it was not going to let me down so had to sell it even though I loved it to bits.
SORRY BOB :'(
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Sorry to bring back up this thread, but how have you found the longevity of these lights?
I had some fitted for just over a year now, same as tommyardin and slappy, much lower down mounted on top of the standard Yammy low engine crash bars. In that time, I've had no end of hassle with the bolt that goes through the supplied mounts and threads on the the alu body of the lights giving up leaving me with spinning lights that just fling to side to light up hedge row... Tried lock tight and all sorts, but ultimately the threads on the light bodies are shite. Swapped with longer bolts now with a nut on inside - bit of faff to tighten up, but held much better.
I've also had hassle with water ingress into the lenses, with moisture on the inside taking ages to dry out. Have to pop them open to clean and dry them out.
I have to agree to think they do help with filtering, especially through winter and dusk/dark conditions. Definitely get the impression of more people noticing me, though these things are always hard to confirm, it could just be my perception. Now I'm in two minds as to bin them, try bypassing switch and hooking relay to side lights instead, or splashing out on new, better ones.
I had the same ones as Tommy had fitted to my 1st CBF - whilst they were good they let in water and misted up.
The smaller ones as per earlier posts are still going fine on 2 bikes after nudging 2 yrs riding 100 miles a day in all weathers.
Might be worth a go with these 10w jobbies that mount straight onto the top rad side plate bolt using original bolt.
None of mine have moved an inch and don't let water in.
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Just gonna add to this, my spotlights kept blowing every so often but then I realised that because I have them mounted on both sides of the radiator the wires were getting hot and pegging out the lights.
I solved this by adding "heat resistant cable sleeve" over the wires, which looks a bit like heat shrink (before shrinking it) and and it has worked wonders.
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