Decided to put a few more layers of amalgamating tape on the silver disc part, as in the above photo', to build it up a bit more.
Then when i put the bulb back in and clipped it into place i could see from the front that the locating pins were in the correct place but the added tape moved them back by about another 1mm so that they weren't actually in contact with the housing.
Then after giving the bike a good clean up and a bit of TLC i went for a quick spin up the road.


Now i don't know if it's the same for you, but every time i clean the bike it feels better than normal, but this time it felt particularly good, and then i realised........NO BUZZING 


So, this is the fix for any buzzing headlights out there.
Get yourself some self amalgamating tape and wrap it round a few times, as in the above photo', and it will act as a cushion, and because of its rubber properties will counteract any vibrations. It's really useful stuff anyway, and doesn't go off, and a roll lasts for absolutely ages. You just stretch it then it sticks to itself, and is heat resistant and waterproof.
The difference in noise to me was very noticeable, and now it just sounds sweeeeet   

When i last adjusted mine i found that they didn't work as straightforward as they should, but if you persevere with it they will move eventually.
I found it easier to do aiming at a wall when it's dark so you can see what's going on a lot better too.

They've already got progressive springs as standard.
I'd be inclined to change the fork oil if you don't know when it was last checked, and make sure the levels are spot on.
The level for 00/01 bikes are different to 98/99 bikes because you have the adjusters, so more internal metal work and less oil, so make sure you get the correct air gap from the manual.
And i don't know what build you are, but if you are of the heavier variety then try using 15w grade oil rather than 10w, i found it to make the front end much more stable, but then i'm no lightweight.
If you look like you need a good meal then stay with the 10w otherwise you'll find it a bit bumpy up front, although at least you can use your adjusters.
I've got older forks without adjusters on my 00/01 bike, but have had no problems at all. 

The chain pulls the unloaded wheel to the point where it simply builds up too much momentum but because the chain is in the way it stops it from going too fast, causing the jumping about.
It doesn't happen when the wheel is on the ground with weight on it.
The gasket is quite useless so don't be too concerned about that.

Well last year I was knocking on nearly 20st so probably weighed more than you and all your equipment haha

Thankfully that's not the case anymore as I am down to 14.5st I played around with lowering the pressures when I got my new tyres on, but I feel more comfortable on the 36/42 so that's what I'm sticking with

Yeah, i agree, over winter the tyres generally lose a bit of air so i would experiment and see how far i could let it go before getting the wobbles, and it didn't take much to notice a difference in handling after a few pounds of lost pressure.
But once topped up back to 36/42 then all was sweet again   

The 600's have a 187kg total weight load limit on them, which is fine for one person, but i'm about 100kg for instance, then add the always half full large top box and metalwork, possibly 20-25kg, and it leaves me quite limited as to the size of my passengers i can take, about 9 stone max in my case (which is handy ).
I bet a lot of people don't take these weight limits into consideration!

The oil level should be checked after letting the bike tick over for a few minutes as well.

First guess would be worn or badly adjusted chain, but need a little more info to be honest?

I've obviously never had the cone in question, and never failed an MOT yet!

Quote from: darrsi on 19 April 2013, 07:26:14 pm

cos my light unit is still buzzing and my thingamajig isn't even there 

 Check the front indicators where they go through the firing the biggest cause of buzzing.    The other is the cone and H1 blub.  Heat from the bulb turns the back of the reflector into chalk disintegrating the back of the lens which isn't made of metal.  This is the cause of the cone coming loose and the blub will start to oscillates in it's mounting = buzzing, eventually the entire back of the reflector collapses.   Daytime use of low beam accelerates the damage and there is no practical/easy way of stopping it that I know of, tell tale sign is dust in the light unit.   
   

You've probably seen my post, i've put self amalgamating tape on the bulb holder, i think that'll help a little, although i'm still confused as to why it's still buzzing?
It's definitely the left bulb area, when i'm riding if i put my finger on the bulb wiring socket it stops, plus i can feel it really vibrating.
I may put some more tape on it tomorrow and build it up a bit and see if that helps.

I read what Padraig was saying about undoing 2 clips to release something, in my other post about headlight vibration, and wasn't totally sure what he meant, and now i've read this post a few times, scratching my head, and realised that i have no idea what anyone is talking about???   


I'm starting to think this metal cylinder thingy you're on about has already been removed on mine.


When i look through the front lens all i see is the bare bulb, and the 2 locating pins.


Are you saying there is meant to be something else there, around the bulb? 

Have you tried both screws, they don't really behave like they should do?