This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - andybesy
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 20
51
« on: 19 November 2015, 02:15:39 pm »
Hi Both,
Thanks for your replies. Only thing done to the rear has been new tyres, Bridgestone BT023 Front + Rear, fitted around 2k miles ago.
I'll consider the tyres and take a closer look at wear patterns but I'd be surprised if they'd gone bad quite so soon?
Andy
52
« on: 19 November 2015, 12:04:52 pm »
Hello Folks,
Just looking for people's thoughts on a funny sound my bike developed from the front wheel area last week.
To me it sounds like a warbling, oscillating sound; my mechanic described it as sounding like a commodore 64 loading.
It's obvious, loud, consistent and easy to reproduce; not sporadic or intermittent. It's quiet up to around 25mph then it starts and remains up to around 90mph.
It's consistent with road speed, increasing in pitch as road speed increases. It's not in any way linked to engine RPM; it remains unaffected when I pull in the clutch lever and coast. If I brake then it decreases with road speed, but doesn't immediately disappear under braking pressure.
My first thoughts were wheel bearings, but my mechanic and I have had the front wheel off and inspected them and they look good and feel smooth. They were last replaced with OEM ones about 20k ago.
My next thought was the speedo drive, but it looks intact. It was replaced with the upgraded part after the original finally failed about 2k ago.
I've of course confirmed that tyre pressures are exactly correct (36 psi front 42 psi rear), that the front sprocket area is clean, and the front sprocket is secure. We've also adjusted the chain.
I've also had the callipers off, cleaned them and checked for foreign objects, and also checked for anything between the front tyre and the mudguard. Bike is otherwise generally all good and well serviced.
My mechanic's theory is that the large spacer in between the bearings inside the wheel hub is rotating, as we noticed when checking the bearings that when he rotated the bearing on one side the other bearing on the other side rotated too. Is that normal?
He very slightly drifted the bearings back out a bit to release pressure of the centre spacer (he described it as "1mm if that") and the noise was indeed gone for a few hundred miles, but has now returned.
Has anyone experienced problems with the centre spacer rotating? Is that normal? Any suggested remedy? Or do you think it might be something else? Would you just change the bearings even though they seem good?
Any advice or similar experiences very welcome, as always.
Thanks, Andy
53
« on: 22 October 2015, 10:00:11 am »
The other thing about engine braking is because it happens at a steady rate it encourages planning ahead. You're watching what's going on ahead and coming off the throttle early and simply rolling down the gears so you slow in time for the junction or hazard ahead. The brakes are just for fine-tuning as you slow, and then brining yourself to a final stop should you need to.
I try to use them 80/20 as I was taught, but as soon as I'm unsure of grip then it's 50/50 or not at all, and just using planning and engine braking.
This of course is all day to day riding. I guess if you're in a race and approaching a corner then you want to be going faster for longer and in that case brakes are your friend, but this is not the type of riding that fills my days.
Andy
54
« on: 12 October 2015, 12:42:45 pm »
A successful challenge was reported recently, I think on Visor Down. Dude had an insurance company's black box inn the boot and it showed under 30 in contradiction to a ticket for 40+. When it came to court the prosecution didn't contest the defences evidence. I'd speak to a specialist lawyer.
Andy
55
« on: 03 October 2015, 11:51:51 am »
Hey karlo What time? We're just in derby so will come say hello some time soon, but may struggle for Sunday's. Andy
56
« on: 17 September 2015, 07:00:00 pm »
Be aware that because XP doesn't have an up to date SSL implementation (the part of the system that makes the padlock icon in your browser work on secure pages) it'll increasingly struggle to connect to many websites.
More and more sites are using SSL, and where they handle payments they're required by the banks to only support current secure implementations, while the older protocols supported in XP have known weakness and can't be supported.
I loved XP too and still use it selectively on a standalone, non-internet media centre PC, but over coming months your mileage for internet use will drop off fast, it just won't be able to connect to half the servers out there.
Win7 is good, agreed. Win 8 kind of sucks, haven't tried 10 yet, but good to see it's free to win 7 and 8 users.
Andy
57
« on: 12 September 2015, 08:25:20 pm »
It should be okay for 2 Or 3 weeks without if being run no problems, presuming no parasitic drains and good battery. I bumped mine solo last week after a month away but it's the original battery.
58
« on: 10 August 2015, 05:28:01 pm »
Advertise for sale? Sure of course its fine.
59
« on: 05 August 2015, 03:59:38 pm »
Anti bacterial spray to kill the bacteria.
Short term baking soda (not baking powder) or fabreeze can also help.
Andy
60
« on: 01 July 2015, 07:39:43 am »
C90s in fields, I think a lot of folks get started this way. After lots of field bikes next was a derbi 50 on the road, then an rg 125 gamma, then a 10 year break, then the fazer.
61
« on: 26 June 2015, 11:53:10 am »
I think when you've had three then you become an honorary lifetime member - like it or not!
Andy
62
« on: 18 June 2015, 09:34:50 am »
Check the level by the sight glass and top up a little if necessary, but not unusual and nothing to worry about.
Andy
63
« on: 15 June 2015, 05:55:06 pm »
Nice to meet you Dave, thanks for an easy transaction.
Andy
64
« on: 15 June 2015, 10:40:06 am »
I used tyreleader.co.uk for the first time recently.
Price was excellent, I think it was around £140 for a pair of BT023.
Both tyres were checked carefully on arrival and the date of manufacture etc were good. Beads undamaged.
Delivery took some time as the front came from France within 48 hours while the rear came from Germany and took a few days longer. Suggest order in good time for when you need them.
But then strapped to the back of the bike and fitted by my local mechanic.
Andy
65
« on: 15 June 2015, 10:34:52 am »
Hi Dave,
Yes, I'll take it at £60.
I'm in Derby and so suggest meeting somewhere along the A38, perhaps Litchfield or even Biker's world?
I'm at work a present but will take a look at map when I get a moment, or feel free to suggest somewhere easy to find!
Only thing is I have a lot of commitments this weekend and end of this week. Could you do this evening after work? Feel free to PM me and we'll sort it out.
Thanks, Andy
66
« on: 19 May 2015, 06:06:36 pm »
Normal for it to look dark after 3,000 miles, especially through the glass.
Depending on the year (and thus your service interval) you'll be changing it again in 1,000 miles or at 6k.
Personally I like to change every 4,000 even though my service interval is 6k, you can feel the difference in the old oil.
Andy
67
« on: 16 May 2015, 04:04:40 pm »
Just as an aside I had to replace the Speedo drive on mine this week and was pleased to find you could buy just the bit with the lugs on, didn't need the whole thing. And also there was an update to the part (different plastic and holes around the base for grease to move through)
68
« on: 08 May 2015, 02:20:09 pm »
Did the problem only start after the service, or was it there before?
69
« on: 27 April 2015, 12:45:07 pm »
Best wishes, hope all okay.
70
« on: 24 April 2015, 04:33:54 pm »
What about in neutral?
71
« on: 19 April 2015, 01:31:22 pm »
What's your approx location posi?
Andy
72
« on: 14 April 2015, 06:54:51 pm »
My bet would be wheel bearings, when mine needed doing it was a funny sound that varied a lot with the load associated with acceleration.
Andy
73
« on: 04 April 2015, 09:39:14 am »
Checked the side stand sensor is not stuck?
Andy
74
« on: 17 March 2015, 11:52:08 pm »
A screwdriver to the engine (in various places) and to the ear may help you track down where it's coming from.
Loose valve? A pump?
It sounds very regular, where as I thought cam chain tends to be kind of occasional tick mostly when coming off the revs or on idle.
Andy
75
« on: 03 March 2015, 01:40:32 pm »
Halfords do large pots of brand name lithium grease and copper clip for about a five/six quid each I think. May well be cheaper by the time you've accounted for shipping.
Andy
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 20
|