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Messages - Hugh Mungus
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51
« on: 03 August 2018, 06:06:11 am »
That's news to me but then I've not had a Triumph. I think I've found the answer to your problem . . .
That looks like a tax disc holder attached to his head.
52
« on: 03 August 2018, 06:03:24 am »
Great. Will keep fingers crossed...
53
« on: 02 August 2018, 01:08:39 pm »
I thought it was strange to read that one mirror will have a left hand thread...
It's a Yamaha thing. They've been like it for years and years. Bit of a pain really as no other bike has it and there haven't been loads of negative comments about not having LHT mirrors.
54
« on: 02 August 2018, 03:22:21 am »
One of them will be left hand thread - easy way to check is to gently try to screw a bolt in.
Plenty of mirrors available for Yamaha's but many come with a left hand thread adaptor that screws onto the bottom of the mirror stem and can look a bit odd, although using an adaptor means you can fit any mirror and not just LHT ones.
I've got bar end mirrors on my Fazer and I think they are great. They take a little getting used to and the actual mirrors I've got are probably a bit too small. For the first few times you ride you will still be looking at where normal mirrors should be. Bar ends are not too great if you do a lot of filtering through traffic.
55
« on: 01 August 2018, 08:15:47 pm »
I have no idea except you might want to pay the £30 as it sounds like a bargain.
The engine will be HEAVY. I don't think you'll walk far with it unless you put it into a wheelbarrow.
Taxi drivers will not be impressed as it certainly won't be spotlessly clean so you can expect most of them to tell you to foc off.
And then you'll be left there with an engine...
56
« on: 01 August 2018, 08:12:14 pm »
Now I was perfectly happy with my exhaust until I saw this. Now I'll have to check mine...
57
« on: 01 August 2018, 08:08:22 pm »
Almost worth nipping over for a full service...
58
« on: 30 July 2018, 10:07:41 pm »
Oh yeah. I made up 2 wires - one end fitted with a male spade end connector and the other end with a female spade end connector. Both wires the same to make an 'extension cable'. Only needs to be a few inches long. Doesn't matter which way around you connect to the relay.
59
« on: 30 July 2018, 08:09:41 pm »
Have you tried earplugs?
Glue them all round the inside of the chain 
Or better still, glue them into your ears.
60
« on: 30 July 2018, 06:04:09 pm »
61
« on: 30 July 2018, 05:58:58 pm »
Don't know what you're talking about 
Post the link up, I could do with a laugh  Only in the same way that you can guess the nitrogen content of the air in the tyres by looking at the headlight bulb.
About 78%... That's what my headlight bulb says...
62
« on: 28 July 2018, 09:19:18 pm »
That's what I used Trebus. Oil everywhere. All over my hands, all over the floor, all over the bike... Some did make it down the cable though.
Just clicked on the link and it is exactly the same as mine - I've only had mine for 33 years, it still works and it's still as messy to operate as the day I bought it.
63
« on: 28 July 2018, 05:27:25 pm »
Thanks all. I have ordered a new OEM at £42.08!! My old one has been oiled a few times but it goes heavy quite quickly. I'll try giving it a go off the bike, maybe soak it in oil for a couple of days. Can't do any harm can it?
Not much point as your new cable should last years. I suppose you could keep it as a spare but you'll probably end up chucking it.
64
« on: 27 July 2018, 08:34:55 pm »
I was going to buy a new clutch cable but I thought I'd have a go at oiling the old one first.
It did the trick. Gone from super heavy clutch action to feather light.
Assuming you haven't broken the cable.
65
« on: 27 July 2018, 08:32:59 pm »
I have always said that too Daviee but I was told a few years ago that was ill informed as split links are a lot better nowadays. I still don't use them because I'm a Luddite.
66
« on: 27 July 2018, 03:20:42 pm »
I've got those on mine. I fitted an adjustable flasher relay as I got some cheap. I haven't used in-line resistors as I didn't need any because the relay has sorted that out.
I get no difference in flash rate with engine running or not.
As your original indicators worked fine I suspect that it is still the relay.
What parts have you actually fitted to the bike?
68
« on: 26 July 2018, 08:19:43 pm »
Unless you have an air bubble in the system.
I changed the coolant on my FJR and it seemed fine. Got stuck in traffic and it spat coolant out via the expansion bottle cos the fan didn't kick in. I suspected the fan but it was an air lock in the system. When you re-fill the radiator rock the bike side to side to help get air bubbles out.
Yes it could still be the fan so don't rule it out completely.
69
« on: 26 July 2018, 08:16:19 pm »
I'm thinking about regularly taking the exhaust bolts off and put a bit of coppaslip on them so they don't end up a rusted mess that breaks and needs drilling out...
I think that each and every one of us that have removed an exhaust downpipe have had the same idea. The trouble is that I don't know anyone that has kept it up
70
« on: 26 July 2018, 08:10:50 pm »
No as it is not a modification. You are merely replacing the engine for one that works - if it were a 'highly tuned' engine then you might want to say something but as it is not, then don't.
Just let DVLA know the new engine number and that is all you need do.
71
« on: 26 July 2018, 06:21:29 pm »
Oh yes, good job you found that out before complaining about the engine having bits missing. This is where the difference lies between buying a complete engine from a breaker and one from a guy breaking his bike - The breaker will always remove the alternator and starter.
Shame about the big end but these things do happen. If you get the workshop to fit the engine don't assume they will service it without you saying so. Don't forget to tell them you want the old engine too.
72
« on: 26 July 2018, 05:15:18 pm »
Apologies for the radio silence...anyway, I checked the voltage on battery idling is 12 point something, when revving up to about 4-5k voltage goes up to 13.5 ish...is that normal?
I would need to be there in person to make a proper judgement but at first glance of your figures I'd agree with BBrown1664 in that it looks a little low. Not massively low, just a bit. This can be causing you a few problems. Before I go suggesting things that might be expensive... Did the original indicators work properly or did you have problems with those too?
73
« on: 26 July 2018, 05:09:30 pm »
I know the bike has gone to the workshop but I was wondering if any Foccers local to you could help out with an engine change etc. Some of us would help out for cups of tea and bacon sarnies in return...
74
« on: 23 July 2018, 10:33:21 pm »
The taxation class for all motorcycles is "Bicycle."
I had a bike that was from Ireland, it was registered in England at a later date and had all that gumph on the log book too. It wasn't classed as an import.
Colour change isn't something to be worried about - It's likely had a change of tank/plastics or maybe even a respray and the owner hasn't told DVLA. It needs correcting but it's only a matter of telling the DVLA, there is no cost.
The main thing is to check the frame and engine numbers very carefully. If anything looks dodgy just walk away.
75
« on: 23 July 2018, 10:25:58 pm »
The guy I spoke to at Vernons said (just a guess) that maybe a valve had dropped, but also said that it if it was something more serious, might actually be cheaper to simply buy a replacement engine, rather than pay for the workshop time to strip the current engine and rebuild it!
Describing engine noises etc is a bit of a minefield/guesswork. The mechanic may be spot on but he also might be a mile off. The only way to tell is to have it looked at. Sometimes it is easier/cheaper to buy a replacement engine but you never know how good that engine is going to be until you fit it. Could turn out to be no good either so have a good think before you go down that route.
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