Post by: John Silva on 06 July 2011, 06:44:09 pm
For whatever reason the offside light on the Fazer only comes on when it’s on main beam (although it has a H4 dual filament bulb fitted).
This leaves only the nearside (single filament H1 bulb) for dipped beam. Lighting levels are crap in dipped and it also looks weird with only one light on.
Whilst stopped at some traffic lights recently this bloke standing at the adjacent bus stop hollered over that only one of my lights was working - yeah, its supposed to be like that!
So lets have both lamps on in dipped and see and be seen better.
These instructions are basically those on the FOC-U (Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial) messageboard but with accompanying pictures and my own commentary.
First of all the mod is easy!
What is required:
Tools (ideally have the right tools but you could do it all with a pair of combination pliers at a push)
1 - 8mm and 10mm sockets and suitable driver (T handle ideal)
2 - Side cutters
3 - Long nose and combination pliers
4 - Crimping tool (type dependent upon desired method of joining wires)
5 - Hat pin or similar long thin pointed thing (not absolutely necessary)
6 - Piece of wood about 600mm - 2ft long (something like 50mm x 25mm - "2 x 1")
Materials (dependent on your chosen method - see text)
1 - 1 metre (4 ft) 1mm² PVC insulated copper wire - preferably Black
2 - 8mm female un-insulated crimp terminal (AMP Fastin/Faston Type) Right Angle if possible
3 - Suitable male and female connectors e.g. insulated bullet connectors, or insulated spades - not required if in-line fuse is used.
4 - In-line fuse (with 10 Amp fuse) if desired
5 - Insulation tape and/or small cable ties
Time
It took me about 20 minutes, although it will take longer if you are not familiar with wiring type stuff, or if you are a perfectionist and want it done "right". I intend to redo it in the fashion which I consider "right" another time but the way I did in as follows is still functional and safe.
STEP 1 - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
Remove the seat and disconnect the battery. This will avoid any possible short circuits which at worst could ignite rogue petrol fumes, or at best blow a fuse (usually the one the size you haven't got).
STEP 2 - RAISE THE PETROL TANK
Remove the tank securing bolt, at the front of the tank (8mm socket) and slowly and carefully raise the tank sufficiently to clear the electrical connection box (taking care not to strain the breather tubes) - check for any leaks. Prop up with a length of wood as shown.
STEP 3 - TURN OFF THE FUEL
For safety turn off the petrol tap at the rear of the tank.
STEP 4 - LOCATE THE BLUE CONNECTOR
This is the connector which has the dip feed from the left hand bar switch via a green wire into the male part of the multipole rectangular connector. There is no corresponding connection on the female part of the connector. Note this connector may be black on Y2K Fazers.
It is this 'un-used' green wire which will provide the dip feed to the offside lamp which we need to extend to the lamp connector on the offside headlamp. There are various ways of achieving this.
Although I didn't do it this time, my preferred way would be to obtain a female Fastin-Faston receptacle and use the spare way in the female connector.
And ultimately this is how I will do it (when I can be arsed).
STEP 5 - UNPLUG THE HEADLIGHT CONNECTOR
Unplug the connector from offside headlight. I found it easier to push this down through the gap at the front of the fairing and bugger about with it there. Unclip the back of the connector and you will see the two wires and 8mm receptacles (female spade connectors). I got a pre-wired three pin connector from my local motor factors for a quid but it was not a right angled one and would have meant rewiring the existing wires to look half decent and not a complete bodge job. So I settled on removing one of the receptacles and using that in the existing headlight connector.
You need to look at the connector to make sure you push in the receptacle (un-insulated female spade) in the right way up (which should be obvious if you look carefully and at the existing receptacles). The receptacle is pushed in from the back - it may need the leading edge 'tweaking' a bit with the pliers to get in (pliers are useful to push it in). Assuming you have used a straight receptacle, then you will need to bend it slightly to lead the wire out (it doesn't necessarily have to be bent 90º - just sufficiently to lead the wire out of the connector. Clip the connector lid back on and plug back into the lamp.
STEP 6 - ROUTING THE WIRE
In keeping with my theory of doing it the "right" way I intended to route the wire together with the existing two wires as far as possible. As this would have meant removing the fairing, basically I couldn't be arsed so did it what I would call the cheap and cheerful way. Also by looking a bit shit it is more likely to prompt me to do it properly sooner rather than later.
Route the wire back along the main harness run which goes into the fairing using either insulation tape or tie wraps (I used the latter for ease and out of laziness). Take care not to run the wire where it can be chafed (obvious?).
Route back into the electrical connection box and leave some slack.
STEP 7 - THE FINAL CONNECTION
Now for the other end. It is quite easy to push the male spade (tab) out of the blue connector using something to push in the locking tab. Look inside the connector and you will see the spade and the retaining tab. I used a watchmakers screwdriver to push in the retaining tab whilst pulling on the green wire( ah so that's where the hat pin comes in!). The spade connector (tab) can the be cut off and replaced with your choice of mating connector (or in-line fuse holder).
You don't have to remove the green wire like this; you can simply cut if off!
I used insulated spade connectors to connect the two ends (yes I know they are two different wire sizes - smartarse), but my first choice would have been to use the correct Fastin-Faston receptacles and the blue connector intact (even using the same colour wire on the other side) together with an inline fuse (for the just in case MOT bit).
STEP 8 - PUT EVERYTHING BACK AND TRY IT!
Neatly put all the connectors into the back into the black box and refit the lid. Turn fuel back on! This is in bold because this is one of the typical "put everything back and then have to remove it all again because you forgot to put something back etc" scenarios. Put the tank back and secure with the bolt. Re-connect the battery. Fire her up and rejoice in the abundance of light.
MOT Time?
There seems to be some confusion/uncertainty as to whether the bike will subsequently pass an MOT test with the mod. Basically I haven't got a clue but will update this page if my cluelessness becomes resolved.
Connectors?
Where do you get them? Well I got mine from a local motor factors, it was all he had. Without doubt you will be able to get the "real McCoy" from somewhere like an auto electricians. I will update this page if more info is forthcoming.
Disclaimer
Obviously there is little chance of you blowing yourself up etc but in these time of "where there's blame there's a claim" and shit like that, not forgetting the parasites that preach it, then just be reminded You do the mod as at your own risk.
2000 Fazer?
Apparently the connector plug in the 2K model is Black
Linking across the headlight connectors?
Yeah it works, but dip and main beam will be on at the same time on the offside lamp (when main beam is on) - apart from that shouldn't be a problem i.e. loading on the electrical circuit will normally be the same as if you did the mod "properly". Obviously when on main beam you the lighting load will higher (only a potential problem if you live in the middle of nowhere).
Relay?
My arse.....the switch sees the same load when switching on two dipped beams as it does when switching on one dipped and one main beam on std wiring setup. Use a relay if you fancy wasting your time........ There is also a single fuse for the headlight (i.e. dipped and main) and again the load is no different if it is one dip and one full beam or two dipped. Except for a means of isolating the mod, there is no reason whatsoever to use any additional circuit protection end of fekkin story'
Brighter Bulbs?
What about these 30% brighter bulbs, blue vision, etc?
I bought Ring Xenon plus H1 and H4 , £14.24 (inc VAT) pair from JPR Motor Parts Leeds, 0113 2256161.
Finally Did It "Right" (ish)
I eventually (in the process of replacing the fairing) routed the wire with the existing loom as a proper job:
Post by: willmckeand on 06 October 2012, 10:37:12 am
Thanks
Will :)
Post by: DanielT on 29 October 2012, 04:18:41 pm
Hi there, I know this is an old old post but I wanted to ask what the benefit is of doing this mod rather than just having the full beam switch on all the time?
Thanks
Will :)
If you have your full (main) beam on, you may be blinding the driver in front of you. Or oncoming traffic, who may then put their main beams on and blind you.
Originally posted by Moffmeister on 31/03/01
I have just done this mod, took the same sort of time, 20 minutes. I had to drive home the other night along the A27 from Polegate and it was so dark it wasn't funny! Looking to now upgrade the bulbs too. Wondering if using H4s on both side, so that main beam is even brighter is possible
Thanks for the effort you went to in posting this guide
(http://images.zaazu.com/img/thumbsup-thumbs-up-approve-ok-smiley-emoticon-000283-facebook.gif)
Post by: Candyman on 10 November 2012, 06:28:21 pm
Any problems with MOT?
Post by: triker on 02 February 2013, 06:04:11 pm
Just done the MOD
Well chuffed....that will stop people saying your bulbs blown in one of your headlights.
Oh yer should also say thanks to James who arrived at Flitwick Yamaha on a silver Fazer 600 2001 model at the same time as me. He had the mod done on his bike. Looked good so got me motivated to get it done.Nice one
:D
Post by: John Silva on 02 February 2013, 06:45:31 pm
Thanks must go to the originally poster Moffmeister who did this mod on his bike.
Just glad your happy with the mod 8)
Post by: simonm on 20 February 2013, 11:34:15 am
Just wondering.
Post by: Fazerider on 20 February 2013, 03:31:04 pm
One thing that has me slightly confused ? If you're using the original wiring loom and 'just' connecting a wire from the dipped beam switch to the dipped beam light then why would you need a fused connection ?, surely the original loom would be fused within the lighting circuit and you'd in essence be double fusing it ?Yes. As Moffmeister says: "Except for a means of isolating the mod, there is no reason whatsoever to use any additional circuit protection".
Post by: madmondeoman on 08 May 2013, 01:45:57 pm
Post by: SirQuiksilver on 05 August 2013, 03:55:24 pm
Was hoping you could clarify for the basic setup with the original lights though, I want to be sure I understand how it currently works before I change it :o . I've never really looked to closely at the bulbs and I'm no mechanic...
Does the main beam switch normally activate a second higher-powered bulb on the side that is usually dark, or is it the same bulb on both sides, just the main beam bulb is angled higher on the road? Or is it something else altogether?
Post by: SirQuiksilver on 05 August 2013, 04:28:06 pm
Now fully understanding the setup, I'm gonna give the mod a go!
Post by: apage16 on 28 October 2013, 01:32:55 am
And I removed the silver shroud over the dipped beam (nearside) H1 bulb.
No problems at MOT.
Also, the fusebox holds a 20A fuse for the headlight.
Watts = Volts x Amps
so
12 volts x 20 Amps = 240 Watts max for the headlight wiring before the fuse blows.
So half that for safety and you can still run 2 H4 bulbs through the standard loom without any issues. 60W main beam x 2 = 120W to be clear! (Though it would actually be H1 @ 55W and H4 @ 60W so 115W)
Post by: king1 on 19 January 2014, 04:54:05 am
A question about this mod
I have read somewhere that fitting a relay to the lights would boost power and efficiency. Any comments on this?
Thanks
Kelvin
Post by: Fazerider on 19 January 2014, 12:18:52 pm
There is a fair voltage drop along the existing cables for the headlights, typically more than a volt.
You could install heavier cabling to relays and use the existing signals from the switches to control the relays, that will give you brighter lights.
It'll also drastically reduce the life of the filaments.
Post by: king1 on 22 January 2014, 08:32:22 pm
I have started doing this mod but am having problems.
On mine the green wire from the blue block is for the indicators
I have a 98 fazer
I have also found a bodged up wiring repair to the main big white connector, the wires in that match the headlight wires and would account for the melted connector at the back of the bulb
Any advise welcome, I will take a photo
Kelvin
Post by: lmdtm on 13 March 2014, 07:35:26 pm
Mine uses the right for regular and the left for hi beam, but the hi beam is very weak as I got the H4 Night Racer Osram.
Can I just connect the hi beam from the H4 to the H1 to get a full hi beam solution?
Post by: AnandaYamaha on 01 May 2014, 04:40:31 pm
I chose Osram Nightbreakers Unlimited. They seem pretty good so far, but I still have to try them on an unlit country road.
Does anyone know how they compare to the Nightbreakers Plus?
Post by: robhog on 13 May 2014, 08:25:46 pm
Whats the chance of this mod working on a 2012 fazer8
Post by: apage16 on 15 May 2014, 12:53:47 pm
There is a fair voltage drop along the existing cables for the headlights, typically more than a volt.
You could install heavier cabling to relays and use the existing signals from the switches to control the relays, that will give you brighter lights.
It'll also drastically reduce the life of the filaments.
I'm seriously thinking of doing this. But my problem would be that I can't imagine where the extra relays would go? Theres just NO more room in that tiny little fusebox under the tank. I suppose the rear left panel by the battery has a bit of space, but that means running the switching wires practically back to the battery.
And what kind of gauge of wire would folks recommend? I've just run in a relay switched spot/foglight combo unit (with relays) and used 1.5mm2 cable. But I'm guessing that 2 lamps is about the limit of this cable. If I'd been a little more forward thinking I could have run in a thicker cable from battery to fusebox and branched from there. D'oh!!
Post by: Fazerider on 15 May 2014, 01:34:18 pm
And what kind of gauge of wire would folks recommend? I've just run in a relay switched spot/foglight combo unit (with relays) and used 1.5mm2cable. But I'm guessing that 2 lamps is about the limit of this cable. If I'd been a little more forward thinking I could have run in a thicker cable from battery to fusebox and branched from there. D'oh!!It depends on what your spot/foglights are, if they're LED and only taking one or two amps then the cable has plenty of capacity to carry the headlight current too. If they are 50W halogens then I'd run in a second cable, 1.5mm2 will be fine.
Post by: Fazer800SAchap on 07 January 2015, 12:24:04 am
Hi
Whats the chance of this mod working on a 2012 fazer8
Works on a Fazer 800 and is the correct way of going about it using the green wire from the headlight switch.
I paid good money for a service manual for the 800SA rather than the FZ8N manual available as a download from the downloads section. (different headlight set up using the single unit on the naked version)
You'll better understand with the SA wiring diagram in front of you but ultimately it is fused through the main headlamp fuse and uses the existing relay to do the job. In addition it will prevent you overheating the H4 bulb and your reflector by preventing both filaments within the bulb being used at the same time and your wiring loom in general although as previously mentioned the headlamp circuitry is good for 240W theoretically.
Other threads/forums suggest having a completely separate circuit and installing another relay to prevent excessive load on the headlight switch itself but thats BS as the switch already takes the load of the main beam which is of a higher wattage rating and therefore will take the load of dipped beam.
Hope this clarifies the issue.
Post by: fazer020 on 12 January 2015, 02:01:53 pm
Post by: Chappers on 13 January 2015, 05:08:23 pm
Ive got my bike in bits fitting various new parts etc.... thought id try this mod out but i cant find any blue or black connection blocks but i do have a couple of brown and a couple of pink ones?
Thanks
Post by: fazer020 on 22 January 2015, 08:31:40 am
Great guide! I have one question: will the dip-beam deactivate on the H4 bulb when main beam is active?
I did this yesterday. Tip for anyone trying, get a doner H4 plug before you start! Having a fitting crimp terminal for the H4 plug really makes it alot easier.
To answer my own question, dip-beam is deactivated in the H4 bulb when you select main beam!
Post by: fazer020 on 22 January 2015, 08:34:16 am
Hi all
Ive got my bike in bits fitting various new parts etc.... thought id try this mod out but i cant find any blue or black connection blocks but i do have a couple of brown and a couple of pink ones?
Thanks
Look for a block that has a wire coming in on one side, that isn't present on the other side. It was a green wire in my case. Hehe, in the movies, shouldn't you always cut the red wire? :)
Post by: HJFazer on 10 March 2015, 10:30:06 am
I am planning to do this mod this week... Struggling to find any h4 headlight connectors with the third wire in place online, any ideas where I can get one? Otherwise, would a standard h4 connector come ready for spade connectors and is there a standard of wire I should use?
Thanks
HJF
Post by: HJFazer on 14 March 2015, 02:21:58 pm
Post by: Yasack on 09 August 2015, 10:07:14 pm
Just been reading through this old thread and wondered if anyone has tried this on a 2009 Fazer 600? I would like to be able to do it, but electrics is not my thing. If anyone could advice it would be much appreciated, alternatively could you not just put a wire fron the left lamp to the right lamp or does that not work?
Hoping for a reply,
Richard
Post by: IamEEKY on 12 August 2015, 11:41:16 am
Thanks for the easy walk through :)
Tom
Post by: Adscan on 03 September 2015, 04:59:10 pm
Post by: Flying_haggis on 23 November 2015, 10:50:00 pm
Thanks FH
Post by: nico on 16 June 2016, 02:01:17 pm
Going to try this mod. I've also added one xenon hid kit to my main light side and will possibly add a second one to this side. Regarding the parking light what do people usually do with this? I was thinking about removing it or does anyone now how to activate it only in parking mode, ie I don't want it on when main and full beam are on?
Post by: Albert Herring on 28 June 2016, 12:06:45 pm
(I used a new H4 connector from Halfords; it's got the wires coming out in slightly suboptimal directions but I didn't think it was worth struggling with the existing one for £3.50)
Post by: fazerfan on 07 July 2016, 10:55:01 am
Interestingly, my Y2K has the black box which does have a spare green wire from the left handlebar switch but with the either dip or main lights illuminated there is no feed from the green wire. And pulling the terminal apart has no effect on these lights either. The only effect is for the indicator and hazard lights not to work. Am used to wiring diagrams but will have to keep digging.
Sorted it was indeed the green wire. Thanks for the excellent topic...
Post by: Darth-Fazer on 12 February 2017, 10:07:57 pm
Post by: GhostCat on 24 March 2017, 07:07:08 pm
having just done the mod with the help of these instruction hoping it cant hurt to add my 2p worth you can learn from my mistakes !
Johns original instructions refer to a Fastin-Faston 8mm right angle connector. Having spent a while searching for the right part I figured out there is actually no such thing which is why everyone had trouble finding them ! They are 7.8mm AMP Fastin Flag Terminals. But there are plenty of them on Ebay, just need to search for "H4 connector" I bought a Durite one which had the correct terminals in brass and the terminals in the correct orientation.
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/rory_moles/durite_zpskgllcmoc.jpg)
Also, to open up the old connector, you just need to push a flat screwdriver into the central hole between the 3 pins to push the flap open.
If you look at the terminals, you see the small tab which holds the connector in the block. If you want to use your new block you get the old ones out by inserting a thin strong object to push the spring tab back so you can withdraw it from the back.
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/rory_moles/tab_zpsemgxh9f2.jpg)
Here is the power end that plugs straight in to the connector that has a green wire going in one side and no corresponding connection on the other side of the block, that is in the junction box under the fuel tank. It is a 2.8mm crimp terminal. I crimped it, then soldered it for good measure. No need to cut any of your existing connections. The fuse can be removed for MOT's if required. I searched on ebay for "2.8mm terminal latch" - the ones you need have the small locking tab poking out of the bottom to click them in place.
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/rory_moles/power_zpshb3aupij.jpg)
(http://cablesandconnectors.com/PIX/2257084184.jpg)
good luck and a big thanks to the original author John Silva.
Ghostcat
Post by: Armitage on 17 May 2017, 05:01:55 pm
Many thanks
Post by: tommyardin on 28 May 2017, 09:55:04 pm
Hi all
Ive got my bike in bits fitting various new parts etc.... thought id try this mod out but i cant find any blue or black connection blocks but i do have a couple of brown and a couple of pink ones?
Thanks
Look for a block that has a wire coming in on one side, that isn't present on the other side. It was a green wire in my case. Hehe, in the movies, shouldn't you always cut the red wire? :)
Said the one armed mono pod :rolleyes
Post by: moffmeister on 25 July 2017, 10:32:13 am
Post by: Stormbringer on 22 January 2020, 09:58:58 pm
I believe the connector I need is under the air box so this and the tank will have to come off ?