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Messages - Robbus
1
« on: 27 September 2014, 08:11:11 am »
I changed my rear PR2 last week at 15k of mainly motorway miles for another PR2. It had survived 2 punctures, both RAC repaired then fully repair by tyre shop, at speed on motorways and was a little squared off naturally but still handled well enough.
The front that was fitted at the same time as looks like it can do another 15k, mental. All weathers bar snow (because we didn't have any) and completely inspiring right up until the last 1k I'd say when the back got a bit looser on some greasy B road bends, but then show me a tyre that wouldn't have slipped a bit in those conditions.
Cheers, Rob
2
« on: 19 September 2014, 09:32:15 am »
Got a pic, anymore info on this smaller screen?
Cheers, Rob
3
« on: 10 September 2014, 09:23:09 am »
I've been regularly getting 260 miles to the tank, usually then takes 19l to (seriously) brim it meaning there must be a few more miles left on reserve. I expect mileage will start dropping soon as the temps drop though.
Cheers, Rob
4
« on: 07 September 2014, 08:31:22 pm »
I feel your pain!! I've got an X-creen fitted, seems to help a bit but I think the fairing design is fundamentally bad and causes turbulence at motorway speed, I'm even thinking about ditching the fairing completely. It's pretty much the one downside about the Fazer, shame that about 70% of my commute riding is on motorways I wear a Shoei Qwest helmet that's supposed to be quiet, is it hell. Tried it with the chin curtain and whisper strip accessories, not much different. Now have a Windjammer II fitted with the vent holes taped over, that's noticeably better but I still wouldn't ride any distance without ear plugs, that's not going to be much use for a flip up helmet though. Schuberth always seem to be recommended as the quietest helmet but come at a serious price, with no guarantee that they will actually work for an individual, so a bit of a lottery. Cheers, Rob
5
« on: 03 September 2014, 09:28:01 am »
My question is, why do you need to remove the plugs to do this? Also, I'm buggered if I can get the bike to roll backwards in gear with my puny strength!
Just to answer this, it so the engine has no compression, so when the pistons move up the cylinder they just push the air out through the plug hole. It's really quite difficult to turn an engine over with plugs in as you'll be compressing air in one cylinder, it normally takes a bit of an explosion to give the crank shaft the required force to keep turning over and compressing air in a cylinder prior to ignition. Cheers, Rob
6
« on: 22 August 2014, 12:42:32 pm »
That's a cracking price. I 100% recommend this upgrade. I've not changed any of the default settings other than bumping the preload up a couple of notches. It's a vast improvement over the joke of a stock shock.
Cheers, Rob
7
« on: 16 August 2014, 02:40:13 pm »
Hi,
Noticed the big spring on my stand has snapped, so if anyone's got a spare knocking around, or know of an alternative (as in easily available!!) I'd be interested.
Cheers, Rob
8
« on: 11 July 2014, 02:20:13 pm »
Sold to Drapes81!
Cheers, Rob
9
« on: 11 July 2014, 08:10:14 am »
Yep, dibs to you mate, I'll drop you a PM.
Cheers, Rob
10
« on: 10 July 2014, 01:03:47 pm »
Well I'm not entirely convinced about the speed factor, red means stop after all The split should be pretty straightforward, the piece is still intact, so it should be a case of some tape and filler/bond on the backside I would've thought, or a bit of plastic welding and some filler to smooth things out. I'll point out now that I'm far from a bodywork expert of course! Cheers, Rob
11
« on: 10 July 2014, 09:20:14 am »
Just a quick note to say mine's fitted and has a few hundred miles on it now. Currently running default settings from Jeff:
"Setting the high/low compression damping at 4 turns out from full hard on the yellow high speed adjusting nut, and 16 clicks out from full hard on the low speed compression blue screw worked well for me, and my weight. Rebound damping i have set at 16 clicks out from full hard, and that worked well, also.
Preload is set midway, I haven't properly measured sag yet but I've not bottomed out yet so it can't be far wrong. Running a 675lb spring, I'm a couple of pounds over 14st when fuller clobbered up.
Impressions are it's a very worthwhile upgrade, even though I spend 75% of my time on motorways the old shock was still bouncing around in a rather undamped fashion, things are nice and smooth now. I've also got EMUs fitted to the forks and I was wondering if they actually worked but it turns out the old shock was so bad it was masking the front. With the new shock I can actually feel the front working properly which is a bit of a relief.
Cheers, Rob
12
« on: 30 June 2014, 09:06:41 am »
Hi,
Yes, there's no reason this won't fit a boxeye, so first dibs to you.
Cheers, Rob
13
« on: 29 June 2014, 09:30:56 pm »
Quick bump for 'any' interest before I put it on fleabay.
Cheers, Rob
14
« on: 25 June 2014, 12:11:46 pm »
its pretty easy to self fit. Wheel off, suspension linkage off (and it could probably do with a clean and grease up anyway), old shock off. Tophat spacers in, fit top of shock into place, linkages back in, dogbones on, wheel back on. Home mechanic 2 hours tops.
I'll be doing this shortly (third shock down in the pic above is mine!) bet I take longer than two hours. Good job I live a long way from other people too as I bet the language will be pretty blue at times Any recommendations for grease in the linkages, do I need some fancy waterproof moly based stuff or will the regular black stuff do the job? Cheers, Rob
15
« on: 15 June 2014, 05:05:40 pm »
17
« on: 15 June 2014, 04:54:39 pm »
Genuine Yamaha belly pan with crash bungs. Somewhat rare is the best description It's not perfect, couple of chips and the front part is split slightly but solid when mounted on the bike. Obviously repairable should it need respraying to a slower colour. Crash bungs are undamaged, ironically I've drop the bike a couple of times since removing the belly pan and bungs - d'oh I'm looking for £100ono, that includes delivery. Or if you want to collect from the wilds of East Yorkshire that's no problem and I'm more than happy to help fit it and offer a brew. Cheers, Rob
18
« on: 15 May 2014, 09:09:56 am »
£80+ I was quite interested until I see that
A lucky bag on Ebay, def not worth £80! Possibly upgrading to a Pan European front fairing would solve the issues Cheers, Rob
19
« on: 14 May 2014, 02:46:21 pm »
Been meaning to reply to this for a bit but only just got round to taking a pic. I fitted an MRA X-Creen to a standard foxeye screen, basically a bit bigger than the adjustable bit on a full MRA Vario. After a few trial runs on the M62 testing ground and basically regretting/swearing bothering with the damn thing I gave up and set it up flat like this: | MRA X-Creen |
That was a revelation. Basically it catches the air being forced up the screen and diverts it on to the chest meaning my heads in nice clean air, much quieter and less buffeting. It works well at motorway speed +/- a little bit When I had it in the expected more vertical position it just created massive turbulence and noise, awful. I had to duck my head right down behind it to get any peace, basically chin on the tank. I did an experiment the other week and stuck the Puid DB back on, no joy there unless going very much above the limit where it starts to deflect the air higher. 6'1" ish and knock around in a Shoei Qwest if that's of any help. Cheers, Rob
20
« on: 18 April 2014, 08:38:04 am »
Very slick mate!
Could you let me know the diameter of the axle when you get a chance please?
Cheers, Rob
21
« on: 04 April 2014, 08:59:37 am »
Sounds like my foxeye too. Had the carbs balanced, didn't make any noticeable difference so I guess it's carb cleaning time. I'm not convinced I'm the best person to do that though Any recommendation on fuel additive as a first try? Boggo Redex stuff or is there something more capable? Cheers, Rob
23
« on: 22 February 2014, 02:32:57 pm »
Errrr, sorry to be a doubter fellas but i've always used Graphite Powder/Lube in my bike locks/ignition as this contains no oils (WD40) to attract and hold any dirt.
Always worked for me for long periods...........
They wouldn't listen to me
OK, OK, everybody listen to Frosties!! And maybe give Noggy a tip o'the hat. My wee can arrived this morning and I now have a super smooth lock I've even managed to get it to the steering lock position without too much swearing, some sort of fandango like moves are still required with the key to achieve this but it's nice to know it'll go. Couldn't get it to PE though, I'm not fussed in the slightest about that. I was so happy I even cleaned the bugger and tightened the chain Thanks to all contributors, I think this needs to go down as the official Foc-U lock fixing solution! Cheers, Rob
24
« on: 20 February 2014, 11:29:28 am »
Alright already Ordered up from fleabay too. Have yet to do anything with the lock as I've been away from home so I'll leave it until I can graphite the hell out of it now. Cheers, Rob
25
« on: 18 February 2014, 12:34:22 pm »
Hmmm, common problem then, hey ho! I'll try stuffing some grease down there at the weekend and giving it a good jiggle Cheers, Rob
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