another USD question ...

[justanothernoob]

so I'm looking into the USD upgrade and have questions, questions ... and more questions!

Hopefully you good bunch of foccers have answers 

Reading the archives, it seems like the easiest method is to use a complete R1 front-end (forks, wheel, caliper, disk and speedo sensor), replace the top yoke with the original FZS 600 yoke and press the FZS stem into the R1 (so I can retain the old riser handle-bars).

I'll be swapping to a Koso DB-03R so that should get around the problem of the speedo.

Is it really that simple?

Will I need to replace stem bearings?
If I leave the R1 yoke in place, does that make it an easier swap with just the need to grab some raised clip-ons?  (And work out a new mount for the Koso).

I'm already going to be throwing on some 50mm dog bones so I'm keen not to drop the front too much but think this should be ok? I'm not a speed freak - so hopefully I won't be hitting any stability problems. Generally I'll cruise at 100 kph (60 mph) but might haven an occasional blat up to 150 kph (90 mph). Does anyone know what speed the instability come in at?

Mainly I'll be commuting so will be after quick acceleration (so am probably dropping down 1 tooth on front sprocket and going up 4 on the back). Just thought I'd mention that in case it's something to consider.

Appreciate any advice - I have my eye on a couple of sets of 02 R1 front-ends that are ending in the next couple of days.

Cheers

David

[joebloggs]

You need to swap steering head stems so the lower bearing's got to come off so may as well replace the top at the same time.

[joebloggs]

Reading a post earlier I saw that the FZ1 speed sensor can be used with the stock speedo, question I have is could the FZ1 gauges be fitted to the 600, would be a nice little swap if its possible

[Deefer666]

And because the FZS has a shorter headstock and the R1 has thinner yokes you will need a spacer machined to sit under the bottom yoke.

[joebloggs]

And because the FZS has a shorter headstock and the R1 has thinner yokes you will need a spacer machined to sit under the bottom yoke.

Under yoke or spacer required for lower bearing to sit on?

I have different yokes and have lowered the top yoke (discarded one of the top bearing nuts) so it sits closer to the top of the tank, my spacer will be above the top yoke. Could have shortened the stem and extended the thread but didn't know how low the yoke was going to sit at the time, maybe something I'll look at in the future 

[kebab19]

Basically follow Mike / Falcon69's guide to an R1 front-end for the Fazer 1000.
Also be aware that unless your clipons are raised a fair amount, they risk fouling the petrol tank on full lock.
Which reminds me - the R1 lower yoke lockstops may not be in the correct place for the Fazer if the stem bearings are bigger / broader

[justanothernoob]

yeah that's the guide I was going off. It looks like the easiest way is to get a complete front end and then just a little bit of jigerry pokery with a spacer and replacing the yoke with the FZS one?

[JoeRock]

yeah that's the guide I was going off. It looks like the easiest way is to get a complete front end and then just a little bit of jigerry pokery with a spacer and replacing the yoke with the FZS one?

How you gonna use an FZS yoke on R1 forks fella - they're USD, they won't fit in the clamps?

[justanothernoob]

yes - quite right - I meant to say stem. Been a loooooooong week ...

[justanothernoob]

Ok so a wee update: New Zealand regulations mean that milling out existing yokes to take the USD forks is not going to be road legal soooooooo ... I'm gonna have to swap out the whole front end and get a new stem machined.

Expensive - yes. But still cheaper than buying a bike that's already setup the way I want it.

So speaking with the scrappies I have a few options - the question is ... 2004 Hayabusa or 1998 Ducati ST2? Or wait a few weeks for a 2004 R1 front end?

The ST2 forks are 700mm long which I think is the about 10mm shorter than the R1 forks. I want to retain the same upright-ish riding position for commuting so I think I'll skip those.

The busa forks are around the 720 mm length which is still 35 mm shorter than the FZS600 forks but shouldn't be too bad. Plus the busa yoke also has pre-drilled holes for risers. So I can either go with riser clip-ons or riser bar.

And the busa is 60kg heavier (wet)  so I shouldn't I won't have any problems with the front diving. With me being 103kgs I reckon it should be spot on.

Also the busa has radial brakes

Unfortunately it doesn't have the Brembo calipers but I reckon anything that can stop the busa should be more than sufficient for the Fazer.

But what I'm not sure if is what I'll need to do to get the speedo working? I'll be using a Koso DB-03 for the gauges. Is it a case of removing a sensor from the existing wheel and having it attached to the new one? Appreciate any advice

[kebab19]

R1 forks are popular as they are longer than most USD forks. 
From memory, the 4XV / 5JJ / 5PW forks are around 770mm from top cap shoulder to centre of axle - assembled but without any weight on them.

You can see my old thread below where I compared the length of Fazer FZS1000 forks with early R1 USDs and RWU R6 5SL forks.

http://fazer1000.yuku.com/reply/23677/Re-R6-forks-nonUSD-for-Gen1#.V7IgWjV0cdU

The R1 USDs and R6 RWUs pictured are about the same length as the FZS600's forks.  Anything much shorter and you could well have ground clearance problems.

Regarding the speedo, Muddybuddy provided a solution for fitting an altered speedo sensor to either a replacement front-end or working off the rear brake disc instead.  Unless you want rid of the standard clock setup?

[joebloggs]

If you search the SV/GSXR forums you will find reference to fitting K1-3 gauges using the output shaft sensor you would need a speedo healer to correct for gearing but it would give a wider choice of gauges

[justanothernoob]

thanks chaps.

Kebab - by getting rid of the clock setup, do you mean replacing the existing stock gauges? If so, then yes, that's what I'll be doing - and replacing with the Koso DB-03 digital gauge.

[kebab19]

Yes, sorry I wasn't clear enough - I meant that a FZ1 speedo sensor can be wired in & used to trick the original FZS clocks / speedo / TPS into thinking the front wheel sensor is still there after you've replaced the front-end with something more exotic.

Are there no Koso / speedo forums which can advise on re-wiring?

[justanothernoob]

ahhhhh right - that makes sense - sorry, working 12-14 hour days for the past couple of weeks and the sleep deprivation's starting to kick in!  I hadn't thought of checking the Koso forums - good call, sir