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Messages - Adam2201
1
« on: 25 June 2019, 03:39:00 pm »
I recently had the same thing happen to one of the allen bolts on the foot peg holder. I decided to go at it with the plan of softest options first: 1) elastic band over the hole with the correct size allen key 2) hammer a torx in. use manual impact driver 3) heat 4) cut slot in bolt for flat head At this stage I was getting desperate. Bought some of these on Amazon [size=78%]https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-function-Gripping-Extractors-Engineer-neji-saurus/dp/B00NBSVYOY[/size] Expensive for a tool you don't use so much, and gimmicky looking, but they turned it straight out! The reason they're good is that they properly bite onto the bolt head and you can apply loads of force. Before I got them I wouldn't have thought they would have worked, but had seen some similar pliers used on Shane Conley's youtube channel. If you're fairly close to West London I can always bring them over one night if you want to try them.
2
« on: 04 May 2019, 11:53:47 am »
Cheers for sharing, I'm going to be giving this a try 
3
« on: 12 April 2019, 04:23:16 pm »
Usually Kill Switch for me - not sure when I started doing that. Then I kick the side stand down and put the steering lock on at the same time as turning the key.
It's habit more than anything - if I don't do everything in exactly the same order I'll end up leaving the key in the ignition and not putting the chain on!
4
« on: 29 November 2018, 10:46:10 pm »
The ER-6 still passes all them marks so I'm sure most bike schools will still be alright.
Its the usual utterly pointless rule changes though, if anything they need to get rid of the stupid age system.... as if being 24 makes you any more qualified to ride a bigger faster bike!?
I personally think the 47bhp limit should be enforced on ALL new riders regardless of age for a minimum of 2 years. No re-test bollocks either, just automatic upgrade to a full license, unless you have acquired speeding points then you should have to wait longer.
It would give everybody the chance to actually learn to ride better on a machine that isnt outside their ability before they decide to jump on a 200bhp crotch rocket.
I reckon it would save a fair amount of lives too
100% agree. You won't ever use the full 67bhp on the street doing your A license test - even if you pin the throttle open to get up to speed for a dual carriageway - so in that sense there's no difference between the current A2 and A (in terms of the test). If the worry is that people are jumping on litre bikes without experience, then a 2 year probation at 47bhp (with automatic upgrade) makes much more sense. If you do A2 and A separately with a school, you're looking at well over a grand in lessons and fees.
5
« on: 02 July 2018, 12:25:45 pm »
That's great thanks! Clearly I didn't put the correct words in when I searched 
6
« on: 02 July 2018, 11:51:17 am »
Hi all,My centre stand was really slow to retract last night, and when I had a look at it, the larger spring has snapped  . Has anyone had any luck finding a generic spring that fits, or is my only option OEM at £20.00?The coils seem to be much wider than the ones you see on ebay or WEmoto, probably because of having to accommodate the thinner spring going through the middle? The same spring fits the Fazer 1000 and VMax apparently but I can't find any second hand ones online.My caliper is dead, but looking at it with a ruler the measurements seem to be roughly 120mm hook to hook (assuming it's the same as the thin spring). The coil part is roughly 25mm OD, and nearly 60mm long.If anyone has one knocking around that they're happy to sell please let me know!Cheers,
7
« on: 29 June 2018, 02:01:42 pm »
Fokker
8
« on: 23 June 2018, 12:07:02 pm »
Scored 49/50. The one I got wrong was about tyre on motorcycle over 50cc. I clicked tread depth below 1.6mm (which is the legal minimum for this category as far as i recall-can anyone confirm this please?) I should have gone for bulge in tyre which thinking about it, I would be more concerned about a bulge than having insufficient tread although I guess we all regularly check our tyres(bike & 4 wheel vehicles) unlike a few cagers I know who NEVER check tyre pressures let alone look for cuts/bulges/tread depth 
It's 1mm for motorbikes and "visible tread pattern" for mopeds (50cc and below) IIRC. I thought it was 1.6mm until I did my CBT
9
« on: 05 June 2018, 09:27:16 am »
Thanks for this - I've been thinking about doing the same, but may as well stick with what I know.
As much as a better rear view would be awesome, the Fazer is the perfect width for London commuting without having to fold the mirrors in all the time, I wouldn't want to lose that.
10
« on: 31 May 2018, 09:51:21 am »
Cheers mate, been to Honda and ordered one off a '97 Honda Prelude (nice car!). Seemingly it's that and the CR-V that use it.
Should all be sorted now when it arrives.
11
« on: 30 May 2018, 05:52:20 pm »
Mine is just using the standard reflector unfortunately. As much as I'd like to fit the Retrofitlab projector version I just can't justify the expenditure, so it will be going back to standard Halogen. Looking at the parts diagram it seems to need a H1 socket connector on the left headlight (part 4 - https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/genuineparts/9654/42/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998/headlight?uID=0 ), which I am hoping I am going to find in the bike somewhere still as it's not available to order.
12
« on: 30 May 2018, 01:52:08 pm »
Thanks, hopefully it will be straightforward then. I will have a look at it tonight and try to see what the score is. It's the left hand light which I think would have been an H1 originally .
If it's fairly easy I'll just put a Halogen bulb back in for the MOT.
13
« on: 30 May 2018, 11:38:35 am »
Hello foccers, Not seen anyone post about this yet, sorry if I've missed it. I've booked by MOT for next week, and looking at the new rules ( https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/class12/Section-4-Lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment.html#section_4.2 ) it seems that my Boxeye's HID headlight conversion will fail u nder the "Some motorcycles may be fitted with high intensity discharge (HID) headlamps. Existing halogen headlamp units shouldn’t be converted to be used with HID bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.". Doesn't seem like there's much room for leeway.[/size][/size]Has anyone been for an MOT since 20 May with an HID conversion fitted or am I going to be the guinea pig  [/size]? [/size][/size]Mine came with the conversion done when I bought it.... assuming it fails will it just be a case of snipping the wires and soldering an H1 connector in to put it back to original? Ta,
14
« on: 11 May 2018, 09:47:55 am »
16
« on: 07 February 2018, 10:44:35 pm »
Agreed! I hadnt checked anything when I first posted to be fair, it's been a busy week and just haven't had chance until now. It's easy to think the worst, I wanted to try and make sure I was on the right track before I started and work through methodically. The things I've learned from here in the past have been great, as when something goes wrong you remember someone else having the same problem.
I got a fair bit of old history with mine, but i try to keep a note of everything I do on a spreadsheet as it helps when you do have a problem like this. I knew I'd had that connector off but couldnt have told you when. Same with changing the coolant.
17
« on: 07 February 2018, 09:32:11 pm »
Finally had chance to have a look at it tonight. Before I did anything else I pulled the water temperature warning light sensor off and was greeted with this picture (which will hopefully attach). Green with corrosion. Don't know why I didn't look at this when I first had the problem (I had the tank off anyway to check the levels in the rad), but I just trusted the red light.
I've looked at my maintenance records and I took the sensor off in June to check the fan was working, so maybe it didn't quite go back on properly and it allowed water to get in - it didn't look like that in June, let's put it that way!
I've cleaned the connector (and the sensor end) and WD40'd it and it looks like new. Pushed it back on until it clicked and put a blob of grease around to try and keep it sealed. There's no play in it, it seems like a good connection, and the wires look fine on both this and the fan sensor.
It would be daft not to check everything else you've all suggested (and flush the rad and change the coolant, which my records say was last done July 15, so it's overdue), but I'm hoping the wire will be the solution- it was biblical rain on Saturday and with the speed/wind on the motorway it was horizontal, so it wouldn't surprise me if water got in that way. Will try riding to work tomorrow and see what happens.
The only sign I had of overheating at the time was the steam coming from the engine, but as it was p*ssing rain it's not surprising really. I'm not the brightest spark! I did see a drop of coolant, but that was likely from taking the rad cap off to check the level.
So I imagine this will either go one of two ways now. I'll either test everything and it will all be OK so I'll never post about it again. Or alternatively I'll be posting from the back of an RAC lorry in a few weeks' time when I've forgotten all about it!
At some stage I will do the mod someone posted on here and fit a proper analogue temperature gauge to the bike. I've had overheating problems with a couple of old cars in the past and it does bother me not having a gauge on the bike (even though the Fazers seem to run cool and I've never had a problem with it before). If I'd seen swinging readings on the gauge, rather than just a red light I would probably have done a bit more testing.
[/size]Thanks for all the suggestions, and hopefully this will be the last update.
18
« on: 06 February 2018, 06:01:34 pm »
It seems to takes very little to go from the min line to pouring out on mine (especially if you've got a funnel in there, it's hard to judge). you can't see very well into my reservoir with it being old, so I tried adding a few ml just to be sure that what I thought was the coolant level was indeed the level. It ended up with a bit too much in, which came out of the overflow pipe.
I didn't want to keep saying that the level was correct in the reservoir then find that I was looking at a line of old coolant dried on the inside!
Hopefully will get chance to have a good look at everything later, thanks again for all the suggestions,
19
« on: 06 February 2018, 09:56:52 am »
would be great if it is just a bit of rain in the sensor...
I saw loads of little tiny bubbles in the top of the rad when I started it, I only left it on for a few seconds as i didn't want it to spray out. When I've had a blown HG on a car in the past, it's been a bugger to start and drive. Also you can see the oil and coolant have mixed when you check the reservoir. Haven't got any of those symptoms so far, so fingers crossed for it being OK. I wouldn't do a head gasket replacement myself, I've never opened an engine.
20
« on: 06 February 2018, 07:36:07 am »
The sensor is the other possibility! I can test that at the same time as the fan switch. It was very heavy rain Saturday with a lot of spray.
The only symptom over heating was a load of steam when I parked up, the bike was riding fine. Not sure when I will get to work on it, but I will give an update!
21
« on: 05 February 2018, 09:39:10 pm »
Thanks again everyone. I like to work on the bike myself but I'm really short on time this week. Even so, will work through things systematically after work to try and eliminate them as it will drive me mad if I can't find a cause and it doesn't happen again.
I just took it out for a ride to get it properly warm. It started fine, was pulling strong like normal. There have been no leaks in the garage since this morning when I started it.
I left the bike running for 5 minutes when I got back, fan didn't come on (as normal), but I didn't get a red light or anything. Radiator (and all corners) was hot. The pipes in the corners were not quite as hot as the fins on the side of the engine, but I couldn't keep my hands on them for long.
The water pump itself (and hoses going to it) were hot. When I took the cap off the radiator (turned engine off and left a few mins) I got a good hiss for the first part of opening. I started the engine with the cap off and could immediately see loads of bubbles in the radiator. Will do punk's check opening the drain screw with the engine on tomorrow before I drop the coolant tomorrow to see how much flow there is
Oil looks clean in the sight glass. Coolant is bright green (was premix when I last changed it and haven't topped up with water since). I did put a few mills more of coolant in the reservoir earlier (until it poured out the funnel), and when I've opened the rad cap just now, it did piss some out of the overflow pipe, which I imagine was just because it was overly full.
The only thing I did differently to normal on Saturday was the long periods of motorway driving (I normally only commute 10 miles each way, but did 70 miles in the morning, left the bike all day in the cold, then drove home). When I started the bike to come home on Saturday, I left it idling for 5 minutes on the side stand as I was gearing up (normally I just drive as soon as I start the engine). It was definitely around zero degrees, and I was driving at 70 in top gear (for at least 15 minutes) when the light came on initially, I would expect the engine to be cool in those conditions.
Will try coolant change tomorrow (with pump drain check), radiator check and flush. Whilst the coolant is drained I will pull the thermostat and the fan switch and try heating them up - I have a multimeter for the fan switch so will look at the specs in the manual. Will also try bridging the fan to make sure it's still working.
Cheers
22
« on: 05 February 2018, 03:39:19 pm »
Cheers guys, will have a look tonight and see what the score is
23
« on: 05 February 2018, 12:59:26 pm »
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. On mobile now, hopefully this is readable!
Just to give an update. I put the battery back this morning. Checked coolant levels and still full In rad (cap looks OK visually ) and correct level in reservoir.
Fired up first time and ran it up to temperature. Not a single drop of coolant coming out, no red light today. I don't know how hot it got idling but headers were red hot.
Fan didn't come on but it never does. I tested it last year and it does work (didn't test switch).
The only sign on the garage floor was a brown mixture (like oil and water) under thermostat. But could equally be rain that dripped off a rusty exhaust. The headers are white but looks more like salt. And as the coolant is full I don't think its that (no sign of crust on rad).
Will drop and flush the coolant as a matter of course as it's been two years (used premix last time). Then will try thermostat (just boil it in a pan and check it opens, closes when cool ?). Then presumably water pump like you say - that was my first suspicion Friday. How can I tell if its buggered? I guess the leak under it would be telltale If it's there when I get back home. You can't hear it working normally can you?
24
« on: 04 February 2018, 08:24:53 pm »
Hi all,
Was riding home on the M25 yesterday when the dreaded red temperature warning light came on. I stopped at the services and the engine was clearly hot (steaming in the pissing rain), but once it had cooled down I checked the coolant and it was up to level in both the rad and the overflow. I carried on my merry way and was ok for 10 minutes or so before I got the red light of doom again. I didn't want to risk it so I pulled over for recovery.
I need to do some proper diagnosis to try and find the problem. The battery is currently charging from having the indicator on for hours waiting for RAC, but will get it started in daylight when I can and try to find a leak with the engine running. Assuming I'm lucky and it is just a leak from a hose/pipe or radiator (seems that way as I can see some spots of coolant on the engine and the radiator does look a bit haggard), rather than a water pump or head gasket failure, does anyone have a link to a radiator they've bought recently that fits straight out of the box? I saw a few posts a while ago where people had ordered replacement rads but the inlet/outlet pipes didn't line up properly on the bike.
[/size]Yamaha originals at £300.00 are out of budget unfortunately.Thanks in advance,
25
« on: 08 August 2017, 01:28:39 pm »
Gutted for you.
If it were me and I had time, I'd be really tempted to try and street fighter it. Some of the naked ones that have come up on here recently looked really good for fairly minimal expense (round headlight, indicators, new clocks if you need them). Clock bracket shouldn't be too hard to figure out using off the shelf parts or minimal fabrication.
Then just run it until the ULEZ comes around (assuming the 'goalposts' haven't changed again in the meantime) and get something Euro compliant then. If it's still going strong at that stage, selling it already fightered should make better money than selling a "project" now you would have thought.
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