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Messages - Spiffle
1
« on: 12 March 2019, 08:41:15 am »
I got them on yesterday, but it's snagging a bit now - yay cruisecontrol!
I'll try some duct tape on the handlebars (renthal) to see if that helps.
2
« on: 10 March 2019, 01:46:59 pm »
Done, but now I can't get the throttle handle and wires to line up. FML
3
« on: 27 February 2019, 11:22:00 am »
Its easiest to remove the cable with the carb hanging out to the left hand side of the bike. Failing that, you need very long, very thin fingers.
Remove the battery and slide the airbox backwards to release the rear carb rubbers and then just pull the carbs back to release them from the front ones. Finally pull the carbs out the left hand side.
You are 75% there already.
Much appreciated, will give that a try once the weather permits again!
4
« on: 27 February 2019, 09:14:11 am »
Hey Foccers!
Recently snapped my pull-cable, got a new set from WeMoto delivered but I can't for the life of me seem to get the old cables off the carbs and new ones on.
Have removed everything but the battery and airbox, was hoping to be able to wiggle them in without removing half the bike (limited tools and street parking).
Have looked for youtube vids with no luck, searched here with the same luck.
Anyone have any links or tips it would be much appreciated as I'm about to just light the bike on fire and get a new one out of pure rage.
5
« on: 28 January 2019, 01:11:50 pm »
Could I ask where to get lights and fairings like that? Since mine was kicked over when parked I haven't bothered fixing it (cheap runaround bike) but pondering tidying up the front completely.
I just got it off ebay for £37.99 delivered black/blue/red/silver/chrome options, it needs 2 headlamp brackets to fix to but that a minor problem.my only small gripe with it is the indicators are not to my taste and i wanted/want to fit my own LED ones but they point inwards and look cack.
So i need to either buy some spacers or something or just cut them off completely
Thanks! Had a look at eBay but was unable to find anything suitable. Ebay's search functions sucks balls.
6
« on: 25 January 2019, 10:55:00 am »
Could I ask where to get lights and fairings like that? Since mine was kicked over when parked I haven't bothered fixing it (cheap runaround bike) but pondering tidying up the front completely.
7
« on: 12 August 2018, 09:32:20 am »
Aaaand the bike was kicked over last morning.
Renthal bars seems to have held their shape (i get it now), but the front fairing is fecked, knocked at least 1 inch off center. I'll strip the fairings and reshape the flimsy holders I reckon.
Strangely enough all the lights still work, even the shitty $2 imports.
Btw, anyone else experience a huge initial stretch with DID chains? I got the Black gold x-ring and have a 7-8cm slack 200kms after fitting (3cm slack at delivery).
That’s a bit shit. The main bracket near the headlights can bend quite easily, but at the same time can be manipulated back into shape fairly easily as well.
As for the chain, i’ve only ever used D.I.D. and never had any issues, and definitely not slack like you’re talking about.
I’d be inclined to contact the supplier and see what they have to say.
Yeah, a bit shit. Glad I have the renthal bars on though. Left side bracket is bent (the insex anchor point, if familiar?) and probably some of the other fairing brackets. Still runs well and keeps me happy though, might just let the cracked plastic be. You used the DID x-ring or standard o-ring? I'm thinking it's just an initial stretch, since it's not stretched more.
8
« on: 09 August 2018, 01:00:18 pm »
Aaaand the bike was kicked over last morning.
Renthal bars seems to have held their shape (i get it now), but the front fairing is fecked, knocked at least 1 inch off center. I'll strip the fairings and reshape the flimsy holders I reckon.
Strangely enough all the lights still work, even the shitty $2 imports.
Btw, anyone else experience a huge initial stretch with DID chains? I got the Black gold x-ring and have a 7-8cm slack 200kms after fitting (3cm slack at delivery).
9
« on: 02 August 2018, 05:46:24 pm »
Working on bikes is like therapy
Because you normally end up traumatised and in tears? 
That's if you ride italian.
10
« on: 02 August 2018, 01:11:30 pm »
You don't need a lift to do a fork service, just a jack and stands to hold the front up.
I've done it a couple of times at home and agree 2-3 hours to do it all. If you only want to change the oil (and not change seals) it's even easier as you just remove the top of the fork, empty the oil out and refill with new oil. Personally, if you're bothering to remove the forks I'd to the lot at once.
My current facilities to work on the bike is curbside parking in a small street so I have limited room and limited tools - otherwise I'd happily do it myself. Working on bikes is like therapy 
11
« on: 02 August 2018, 12:23:37 am »
Malta!
Aaahh, last holiday place i visited.
Fantastic destination, absolutely love the place.
Come again, bring the fazer, make new friends! (
12
« on: 01 August 2018, 11:32:42 pm »
I've been using some €25 bar end mirrors for a while, and they do the trick just fine. On amazon you'll find a plethora.
They look decent and do the job just fine, but beware that they will increase your width by and inch or so.
13
« on: 01 August 2018, 11:29:49 pm »
Malta!
14
« on: 01 August 2018, 09:18:46 pm »
You're all more than welcome to pop over!
(And stay at my place while Keith takes care of your bikes)
15
« on: 01 August 2018, 07:25:44 pm »
You paid €360 for all that! That's a bargain!
Than WeMoto for that
16
« on: 01 August 2018, 06:08:51 pm »
Yes. With a receipt. He even cleaned it for me.
(And replaced the lightbulb he missed for free after i pointed it out)
17
« on: 01 August 2018, 05:13:12 pm »
I put it into a garage to have it done since I don't have a lift, but no, it's not a huge job. 2-3 hours if you're a first timer with some mechanical experience at most.
I paid 230 for parts, and 130 for labour (+ some small parts and fluids)
Front bearings and oil seal
Front shock seals, covers, clips and 465cl oil x2
Front brake pads
Sprockets, chain replacement (DID Gold X-ring, JT sprockets)
Rear brake pads
Rear bearings+seal
Valve check
Oil+filter replacement
Carb check (no work needed)
-
At €15 an hour, might be different in the UK.
18
« on: 01 August 2018, 10:17:58 am »
Front bearings
Front shock oil seals replacement, with 15w oil upgrade
Brake pads front+back
Drivetrain swap
Oilservice
Worth it? Yep!
19
« on: 01 August 2018, 08:17:32 am »
Hey!
Thought I'd update you lads after servicing the Fazer with new seals and 15w front fork oil: What an upgrade!
Just got mine back with new bearings, brakes, drivetrain and other items - and the effect of the shock upgrade was incredible. Thanks for convincing me! =D
((Is it a good sign when you ask the mechanic several times if he spotted anything that needs work, and he says 'neh - bike is almost perfect mate, you don't even need to do the carbs'?))
20
« on: 14 July 2018, 01:49:44 am »
22
« on: 26 June 2018, 12:08:11 am »
It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
It hasn't happened again since I wiggled and reconnected the cables I could find, cleaning out dust etc. But the 8k+ trouble has become worse at times, especially if I go full throttle through the gears it just plutters and foccs around above 8-9k.
New filters are on it's way (air and fuel), new regulator (ebay ftw) and a carb repair kit ought to do the trick.
A milestone - I've now spent over half the initial price on upgrades and replacement parts
 that's about right, you need deep pockets to keep a 15 year old on the road. The 8k+ trouble could be a vac leak if she's running lean, have a look at the condition of the carb rubbers.
Initial price was just shy of 1600 eur, 32.000km on the clock. But I think it's been converted to 'sport' somewhere along the road, had low bars, smaller windscreen and adjusted rear-brake and gear levers, which I had to adjust after the Renthal 754(?) came on. Does anyone know the stock length of the doglegs? I'm no heavyweight and the spring is at 3/4 hard adjustment. Anyone able to make an internet opinion on if the arse is high? https://i.imgur.com/AiRFhal.jpgIt's booked for a major service, have to do forks and front bearings, it's not great while braking, vibrations etc. New pads, went GG because they adapt to the worn disks - later on those have to be replaced, after this set of pads. They'll flush the tank and service the carbs at the same time. Landed on the DID X ring gold and black, about €125 for a kit with JT sprockets. The current ones might well be original from the sound and looks, but at least the front nut and lock has been changed. Got a new one for that too. Since the shocks have being serviced, I'll be going for 15w instead of 10w - has anyone found this to be uncomfortable? Roads here range from good to scattered spots of asphalt with some gravel on, so while i want to get rid of the ridiculous nosedive while braking maybe mixing to 12,5 would fit better?
23
« on: 25 June 2018, 07:51:35 pm »
It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
It hasn't happened again since I wiggled and reconnected the cables I could find, cleaning out dust etc. But the 8k+ trouble has become worse at times, especially if I go full throttle through the gears it just plutters and foccs around above 8-9k. New filters are on it's way (air and fuel), new regulator (ebay ftw) and a carb repair kit ought to do the trick. A milestone - I've now spent over half the initial price on upgrades and replacement parts
24
« on: 20 June 2018, 09:11:16 pm »
It may be one somewhere near the headstock. I've not checked out the Fazers wiring yet but I had similar problems with an FJ1200.
Now that you mentioned it, the bike has been cutting out at full left lock sometimes, and it wasn't the running switch causing it when I checked.
25
« on: 20 June 2018, 08:31:29 pm »
I would suspect a corroded connector block. You need to clean as many as you can find. It's a long and boring job but use some ACF-50 or similar stuff to do a good job.
Cable sleeves, electrical tape, strips and ACF50 and I'll make a day of it - needs a good tidying up anyways. I did poke around the fusebox and connectors before trying again though, and to my surprise there was no corrosion in the connectors I checked and all of them had clean metal contact surfaces.
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