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Messages - wickedmonkey
1
« on: 08 September 2016, 05:06:19 pm »
Thanks. I might have to try that
2
« on: 08 September 2016, 05:03:32 pm »
Ha! Nice pic
I still can't turn the setting from 1. Won't budge at all.
Are you pushing the lever away from the bar before trying to turn the dial? If not, it wont turn as the pin will be in the detent.
Yes, I am. Won't budge. Maybe it's seised. Not too bothered at the moment. Would be nice to adjust it though.
Looking underneath, it looks like the underside of the dial may be seised
3
« on: 08 September 2016, 04:41:14 pm »
Easy enough to do, but before you do ensure the hole in the clutch lever is not elongated from use, because if it is your wasting your time until you replace it.
Screw in the cable adjuster full at the lever end.
Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep spanner ( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster
Read this post also http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.msg105622.html#msg105622
Done. Worked like a charm! Thanks for the help.
4
« on: 08 September 2016, 03:06:50 pm »
Ha! Nice pic
I still can't turn the setting from 1. Won't budge at all.
Are you pushing the lever away from the bar before trying to turn the dial? If not, it wont turn as the pin will be in the detent.
Yes, I am. Won't budge. Maybe it's seised. Not too bothered at the moment. Would be nice to adjust it though.
5
« on: 08 September 2016, 03:01:37 pm »
It is adjusted to the end of the lever screw thread. Not sure how easy it is to adjust at the other end. Is it easy enough to do?
I'm baffled how you haven't already adjusted it before now?
I use it as little as possible...
6
« on: 07 September 2016, 05:44:01 pm »
Mine sometimes does the same accelerating hard uphill. Oil level at the max mark when on the centre stand on level ground.
Would like to know if your eggcup did the business.
Put your own eggcup full in and see
I'd rather someone else went first and reported back in one piece...
7
« on: 07 September 2016, 05:41:30 pm »
It is adjusted to the end of the lever screw thread. Not sure how easy it is to adjust at the other end. Is it easy enough to do?
8
« on: 07 September 2016, 04:52:58 pm »
Hi all,
My clutch cable has started to not return as eagerly as it used to. I'm presuming it needs lubricating but not sure how. Anyone done this before?
David
9
« on: 07 September 2016, 04:41:07 pm »
Mine sometimes does the same accelerating hard uphill. Oil level at the max mark when on the centre stand on level ground.
Would like to know if your eggcup did the business.
10
« on: 07 September 2016, 04:31:40 pm »
Hi guys,
After replacing my front brake pads, my front brake switch doesn't quite come on soon enough. Is there any way of adjusting this? Does changing the brake lever span dial setting effect when the switch is activated?
Many thanks,
David.
11
« on: 07 September 2016, 04:28:52 pm »
I want to really thank everyone who gave me advice on this thread. It has been much appreciated. Update, if you're interested. I gave the front callipers new pads and a fairly good clean as much as possible without actually removing the pistons. I smeared red rubber grease around the pistons and some copper slip on the back of the pads and a little on the pins as well. The front pads are not binding anywhere near as much as when I first changed the pads without cleaning the pistons (ie, they do contact the disc but it's easier to spin the wheel around now). I have now done about 100 miles on the new pads and all feels good. Buoyed up by this relative success, I have just cleaned the rear calliper and changed the pads as well. The rear calliper was filthy and the pistons need replacing or a damn good clean I think due to corrosion (seems like a bad design to have the calliper upside down so it collects water and debris). However, they do feel a lot better now. There is a little drag on the disc like the front but it doesn't seem too bad. I do have another problem relating to the front brake switch but I'm going to start another thread about that little chestnut. Thanks again guys 
12
« on: 25 August 2016, 08:12:04 am »
Ha! Nice pic
I still can't turn the setting from 1. Won't budge at all.
13
« on: 24 August 2016, 03:28:32 pm »
Great video, bretty. I'll clean them as soon as.
14
« on: 24 August 2016, 01:42:21 pm »
Silly question: how do I change the setting? It doesn't seem to turn for me.
15
« on: 24 August 2016, 01:41:07 pm »
Been out for a short ride and the front brake now feels amazing!
No, I didn't clean the calliper - just knocked off some dirt. Cleaning the calliper and lubing the cylinders makes sense. Is it easy to do? Do you happen to have a link to an idiot's guide handy?
16
« on: 24 August 2016, 12:16:42 pm »
Thanks guys. I'll take it out for a gentle ride and see how it feels. Maybe I'll take a backpack with a few tools and DOT4 fluid with me just in case.
Regarding the little wheel adjuster on the brake lever: I presume '1' is the most relaxed setting?
17
« on: 24 August 2016, 11:36:04 am »
Hi guys,
MOT happened a couple of days ago. The bike passed but I had a warning about the front brake pads being very low. I replaced them today mostly without a hitch (pics of old ones attached). Because of the extra friction material on the new pads (SBS sintered), it looked like there was now too much brake fluid in the system as the brake lever barely moved before stiffening up. So, I syphoned off some fluid from the master cylinder (homemade syphon pic attached) but the lever is still stiffening too soon. The front wheel turns easily but not freely so the pads must be touching at rest. The master cylinder fluid level is just above the low mark now and the lever indicator is on '1'.
What am I missing here? This is the first time I've done the brake pads so it's quite likely I'm being a doughnut.
Finally, as you can see in the picture, one of the old pads has worn unevenly. I'm presuming this is because the callipers need cleaning. How easy is this? Can anyone point me to an idiot's guide?
David.
18
« on: 24 August 2016, 11:19:25 am »
Wish I was in this heat...
19
« on: 24 August 2016, 09:17:17 am »
Just wanted to thank you, jules, for this logical idea. Going to try that myself
20
« on: 24 August 2016, 09:05:15 am »
Pic looks fine to me, not sideways or anything else weird
21
« on: 23 August 2016, 04:16:36 pm »
This is embarrassing but here we go...
I changed the oil — twice. The first time, I thought I had put far too much oil back in. I saw a light amber colour in the little oil window and thought I'd put too much in so I started draining oil bit by bit hoping to see the oil level decrease. A litre later I realised that the light amber colour was showing it as empty not over-full. So I had to buy more oil and fill it up again.
Aside from that, I also changed the oil filter and spark plugs. Checked and lubed the chain. Got some SBS brake pads but not sure if I trust myself to do those without adult supervision.
22
« on: 03 September 2015, 06:06:32 pm »
Yeah, I guess, but I already had the watch so for a couple of quid, I figured I'd mount the watch and use that. It's light and very secure as well. Oh, did I mention it's waterproof? And it looks more elegant than a phone in a ziplock bag!
23
« on: 03 September 2015, 02:12:30 pm »
Will keep an eye out for this. Thanks for the heads up.
24
« on: 03 September 2015, 01:59:34 pm »
Ah, but can you wear it on your wrist?
Have you got a weblink to your tomtom?
25
« on: 03 September 2015, 01:58:51 pm »
Cheers. My mind has been out at ease!
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