Author Topic: Help me FOC-U you're my only hope (Read 4483 times)

Fazer99 · « **on:** 03 June 2016, 09:29:14 am »

Hi all,

I'm having electrical issues with my 1999 Fzs600. It started last week and has been getting worse, the speedo and rev counter go nuts and cut out, at stages when this happens I pull the throttle and strains and makes a knocking noise. I have checked any connections as best I can and they all seem fine. I had it hooked up to my car to check if it was a dying battery and when connected faults seems to go. So bought a new fully charged battery and fitted it at the shop and all seemed fine until about half way home it shared to happen again, managed to get home and not it will not start properly, when the ignition is on it makes that clicking noise from the solenoid but for ages rather than just a few seconds. When it does finally fire up pulling the throttle it just strains and makes that knocking noise but when any electrics are activated eg the headlights that noise goes but all other faults still going on. Also I seem to now have lost an indicator but the bulb is fine and I should also mention that when all the cults are happening there is a lot of little popping and backfiring noises coming from the exhaust.

Fazerider · « **Reply #1 on:** 03 June 2016, 09:52:20 am »

Most of this does sound like a connection problem. Somewhere there is a loose or corroded connector or a broken or shorted wire. A multimeter (or a mate with one who knows how to use it) can be very useful in locating the fault, but thorough visual inspection of the entire harness can often work too.
Presumably the clicking noise from the solenoid you refer to is the fuel pump which either has a faulty pressure switch or insufficient flow of fuel or one or the carbs is flooding. Check for a pinched breather hose or fuel pipe and the fuel tap/filter.

Fazer99 · « **Reply #2 on:** 03 June 2016, 11:22:18 am »

It could be like you say dodgy wire as I only checked connectors. I don't think any hoses are pinched as I did check them as best I can as I thought that might have been the reason for the popping and backfiring from the exhaust, didn't think about the fuel pump I'll check that out and the carbs. I think I'll try and get my mate over with his multimeter as I don't own one or really know how to use one

Fazer99 · « **Reply #3 on:** 03 June 2016, 04:04:06 pm »

spoke with my mate and he said that he doesn't believe that The shop fully charged the battery before I installed it in the bike so he will be bringing his charger over tonight and I will give it a good long charge and that way we can work from scratch as he said there is no point testing currents if the main power source is no good.

I'm really hoping it's just a lack of power in the battery as I've had problems with the last 3 bikes I've owned that I've had to fork out lots of money on to rectify and I don't want to have the same issue with this bike otherwise this will happen

unfazed · « **Reply #4 on:** 03 June 2016, 05:41:40 pm »

Check the earth strap from the battery and white earth connector on top or near the battery. That earth supplies the loom. Often forgotten when checking for corrosion in the connectors. Also check the connector blocks under the right infill panel and the connector box under the tank

Fazer99 · « **Reply #5 on:** 03 June 2016, 10:49:27 pm »

I have checked those connectors this morning but cheers for the idea unfazed. I'm living in hope that it's just that the battery is not fully charged as my mate brought his battery charger over and the battery is now on charge, he also brought his multimeter and tested the battery, it was showing that the battery was well undercharged which explained why it was not getting any power when trying to start the bike.

Fazerider · « **Reply #6 on:** 04 June 2016, 10:42:40 am »

Once you have the battery charged and the bike running, check the voltage across the terminals at various rpms both with and without the lights on. If the battery lost enough volts to give running problems on the way home they either sold you a very sick battery or it isn't being charged by the bike.

unfazed · « **Reply #7 on:** 04 June 2016, 08:48:22 pm »

as long as he has the right charger to charge it

Fazer99 · « **Reply #8 on:** 05 June 2016, 06:40:59 am »

Fully charged the battery yesterday and connected it all up. Bike starts but still getting all the problems, going to get my mate over again and check all the currents but unfortunately can't at the moment as manically busy so it's going to have to wait until I have some free time.

Thanks for all the help and advise I'll keep you all posted

paulchucky · « **Reply #9 on:** 05 June 2016, 07:21:41 am »

check the main earth wire that bolts on to the back of the engine abit fiddley to get at but a seriously important wire

something thats easily overlooked

Ferg · « **Reply #10 on:** 05 June 2016, 08:28:35 am »

Alternator or Rectifier. Id get these checked out.

Fazer99 · « **Reply #11 on:** 05 June 2016, 06:08:10 pm »

paulchucky: that was actually the first wire I checked, but yes I wouldn't have noticed it if it wasn't for the fact I happened to have been checking the oil level and cought my glove on it as I was getting up

Stator and regulator are the next to things on my list to get checked, if one of them has gone then I hope it's the regulator as a new stator will set me back about £100 that I don't have spare.

unfazed · « **Reply #12 on:** 05 June 2016, 09:26:43 pm »

regulator/rectifier is the most likely of the 2 as the alternator rarely gives trouble.Most which have given trouble were damaged from a trip down the road which broke the cover and was not replaced with the cover.

I would go at replacing the regulator/rectifier, if you are happy all the connections are ok, but test the alternator first to make sure it is ok.

Wire to wire on the all pairing of the white alternator wires should for the 98-01 models be according to the manual between .36 and .44 ohms and no continuity to earth.

Fazer99 · « **Reply #13 on:** 06 June 2016, 06:26:59 am »

I'm hoping to be able to work on it after work. I want to get it up and running properly as I hate having to drive the car, the bike is my transport come rain or shine but not snow or ice, done it before and went sledging down the road on my arse too many times to want to go through it again, plus I'm a lot older than I was back then and it Herts more

Fazer99 · « **Reply #14 on:** 06 June 2016, 09:00:44 am »

Just had thought and it was painful

the bike is fitted with a Datatool System 3 pain in the arse alarm system, does anybody know of these affecting electrical systems? or am I just clutching at any hope of a quick easy fix.

unfazed · « **Reply #15 on:** 06 June 2016, 09:58:27 am »

Technically it should not have any effect like you have if it is fitted correctly.I will pm you the bypass for it just to rule it out. How many connectors dies it have?

Fazer99 · « **Reply #16 on:** 06 June 2016, 10:21:53 am »

I have no idea how many connectors, as it was already fitted by one of the previous owners and I can't get to it without practically stripping the entire seat unit. I'm hopeing to get working on it after work as I've managed to borrow a multimeter.

unfazed · « **Reply #17 on:** 06 June 2016, 10:59:14 am »

I will pm you the bypass for the system 3

They normally have 2 connectors: a 6 pin and an 8 Pin

Fazer99 · « **Reply #18 on:** 06 June 2016, 11:49:01 am »

Thank you I'll try that after I've tried a few other thing's first, only because it's such an arse to get to

Fazer99 · « **Reply #19 on:** 09 June 2016, 09:08:09 am »

Update on the progress:

A couple of my mates came over last night with their testing equipment and it looks like the alarm system is faulty and causing several issues to the electronics so now I have had to arrange for someone to remove the alarm system. Once that has been done it 'should' be all hunky dory, as when we bypassed the alarm everything seemed to work. However, if I still get problems after removal of the alarm at least then I won't have the alarm system cutting things out or bursting my eardrums where it won't register the fob while trying to turn it off.

unfazed · « **Reply #20 on:** 09 June 2016, 01:15:31 pm »

Follow the PM I sent and it is easy to remove it yourself.

Where is the alarm located on the bike?

Fazer99 · « **Reply #21 on:** 09 June 2016, 03:25:23 pm »

The alarm was wired in all over the place so you couldn't tell if it was an alarm wire or something for the bike, so the PM you sent couldn't help me unfortunatly, but thank you again for it.

All sorted now, there was another fault that was found other than the alarm. The main wire from the connector to the rectifier leading to the starter solenoid was not reading a constant currant so new wiring put in place and now it's sweet.

Only one slight issue now and that is the right front indercator is not working, but that should be an easy fix.

Fazer99 · « **Reply #22 on:** 13 June 2016, 12:44:22 pm »

Finally got the indicator working.
After hours of stripping down the front end and cutting into the protective tube to find the wires, it turned out to be a loose wire in the connector plug thing (technical term

) under the tank which would have taken be 5 mins tops to fix, bloody tipical

Thank you to everyone for all and any help and advice given