Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
General => General => Topic started by: mtread on 21 September 2017, 07:41:35 pm
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1. Halfords have got 20% discount on all Castrol 4 litre oils at the moment. Making 10/40 Power 1 = £31.20 and Power 1Racing = £32.80. Probably cheaper than anywhere else at the moment?
2. Lidl have got an intelligent battery charger which can be switched between bike (less than 14ah) and car (14ah to 120ah). Price £13.99. OK for lead/acid, AGM and GEL Also can charge 6v.
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That's still bloody expensive for oil.
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Not for Power 1 Racing it isn't
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The marketing spiel is designed to get you hooked, but it's still oil at the end of the day, that has to be of certain specs and regulations, otherwise engines would be going pop left, right and centre.
I wanted to try fully synthetic for a change so tried this stuff out for quite a while now and i've been more than happy with it, with no issues whatsoever.
As long as the oil is changed within the recommended intervals then you shouldn't have any problems. The 600's are given a 6000 mile recommendation, but me, along with quite a few others tend to change it around the 4000 mile mark, so paying over the odds for it isn't too appealing just because it has a fancy name on the container.
The semi synthetic is even cheaper, but if you haven't bought any already give this gear a go, i promise you won't be disappointed. ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?epid=0&hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?epid=0&hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y)
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You can get 5 Litres of Semi-Synthetic 10W40 at Wilkos for £15.50 http://www.wilko.com/car-maintenance-products/wilko-semi-synthetic-motor-oil-10w40-5l/invt/0257972 (http://www.wilko.com/car-maintenance-products/wilko-semi-synthetic-motor-oil-10w40-5l/invt/0257972)
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Well I like Power 1 Racing, hence the bargain. Running 2 Triumphs as well as the Fazer, both specifying fully synthetic.
Tried the Lidl battery charger today and looks to do all that the much dearer 'specialist' bike ones do.
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Cracking shout there darrsi, after checking it out via the link I will be defining giving it a try. Cheers
Oh I forgot to add aldi also have battery chargers in at the same price, I picked one up last week & I'm happy with it 👍
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The marketing spiel is designed to get you hooked, but it's still oil at the end of the day, that has to be of certain specs and regulations, otherwise engines would be going pop left, right and centre.
I wanted to try fully synthetic for a change so tried this stuff out for quite a while now and i've been more than happy with it, with no issues whatsoever.
As long as the oil is changed within the recommended intervals then you shouldn't have any problems. The 600's are given a 6000 mile recommendation, but me, along with quite a few others tend to change it around the 4000 mile mark, so paying over the odds for it isn't too appealing just because it has a fancy name on the container.
The semi synthetic is even cheaper, but if you haven't bought any already give this gear a go, i promise you won't be disappointed. ;)
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?epid=0&hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?epid=0&hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf[/url])
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y[/url])
Why are you changing it sooner than recommended? Do you doubt the oil quality, or some other reason?
API SL and JASO MA2 seem very promissing.
What's the (not petrol station rip off) price of Motul 7100 10w40 in the UK?
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The marketing spiel is designed to get you hooked, but it's still oil at the end of the day, that has to be of certain specs and regulations, otherwise engines would be going pop left, right and centre.
I wanted to try fully synthetic for a change so tried this stuff out for quite a while now and i've been more than happy with it, with no issues whatsoever.
As long as the oil is changed within the recommended intervals then you shouldn't have any problems. The 600's are given a 6000 mile recommendation, but me, along with quite a few others tend to change it around the 4000 mile mark, so paying over the odds for it isn't too appealing just because it has a fancy name on the container.
The semi synthetic is even cheaper, but if you haven't bought any already give this gear a go, i promise you won't be disappointed. ;)
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?epid=0&hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?epid=0&hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf[/url])
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y[/url])
Why are you changing it sooner than recommended? Do you doubt the oil quality, or some other reason?
API SL and JASO MA2 seem very promissing.
What's the (not petrol station rip off) price of Motul 7100 10w40 in the UK?
Just something i've always done, i don't do a lot of mileage really so it's not as often as you'd think, probably once a year so it's no problem.
I consider it time to change it around the 4000 mark, but also know i'm in no hurry and it's not an urgency.
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For those looking to break into the MotoVLogging ting.....
(Price drop) ;)
GoPro HERO Session Full HD Action Cam [Built in Wi-Fi / Bluetooth / Waterproof upto 10M] now £139 @ Argos (2 year guarantee)
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Good price here on a blackshadow rear disc that fits the FZS600. British made to boot :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef)
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Good price here on a blackshadow rear disc that fits the FZS600. British made to boot :)
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url])
You sure it fits?
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Good price here on a blackshadow rear disc that fits the FZS600. British made to boot :)
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url])
You sure it fits?
I hope so cos I've bought one!
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Good price here on a blackshadow rear disc that fits the FZS600. British made to boot :)
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url])
You sure it fits?
I hope so cos I've bought one!
I've been on the lookout for a new rear disc, i just can't stand the thought of going through all the grief of changing it though after the last one turned into a nightmare.
It's okay for now but it will need changing soon.
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Good price here on a blackshadow rear disc that fits the FZS600. British made to boot :)
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url])
You sure it fits?
I hope so cos I've bought one!
I've been on the lookout for a new rear disc, i just can't stand the thought of going through all the grief of changing it though after the last one turned into a nightmare.
It's okay for now but it will need changing soon.
What happened?
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Good price here on a blackshadow rear disc that fits the FZS600. British made to boot :)
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-Supersport-ST2-ST4-ST3-wavy-wavey-rear-disc-Blackshadow-uk-/292272142575?hash=item440cc6f8ef[/url])
You sure it fits?
I hope so cos I've bought one!
I've been on the lookout for a new rear disc, i just can't stand the thought of going through all the grief of changing it though after the last one turned into a nightmare.
It's okay for now but it will need changing soon.
What happened?
Every bolt refused to budge apart from one, which i got half way out with brute force, then it snapped off in the wheel hub.
I did try heat at the time, although maybe just not enough, but as i needed the bike on the road asap for work i came to the conclusion that a new wheel with the tyre swapped onto it was the quickest and cheapest option rather than pay for someone to try and remove the bolts then maybe find out it was a waste of time and money.
Because of the direct heat transfer to the fixed disc when braking the bolts fuse themselves to the wheel hub making them a major headache to remove.
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The disc bolts should have thread-lock on them which makes them difficult to undo. You need to give each bolt plenty of heat to release the thread-lock. They are still a devil to get undone and normally make a good crack noise when they start to turn.
When you put a new disc on it's best to also use new bolts with thread-lock, you can use your old bolts if they came out ok and the Allen bolt heads haven't gone sloppy but new ones don't add too much to the cost and I've always thought that bolts that have been heated are weaker which is not a good idea on the most important part of your bike.
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The disc bolts should have thread-lock on them which makes them difficult to undo. You need to give each bolt plenty of heat to release the thread-lock. They are still a devil to get undone and normally make a good crack noise when they start to turn.
When you put a new disc on it's best to also use new bolts with thread-lock, you can use your old bolts if they came out ok and the Allen bolt heads haven't gone sloppy but new ones don't add too much to the cost and I've always thought that bolts that have been heated are weaker which is not a good idea on the most important part of your bike.
All good stuff thanks. I'm going to enlist the help of a car mechanic mate with a gas bottlle, lets hope it's a straightforward job. :)
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The disc bolts should have thread-lock on them which makes them difficult to undo. You need to give each bolt plenty of heat to release the thread-lock. They are still a devil to get undone and normally make a good crack noise when they start to turn.
When you put a new disc on it's best to also use new bolts with thread-lock, you can use your old bolts if they came out ok and the Allen bolt heads haven't gone sloppy but new ones don't add too much to the cost and I've always thought that bolts that have been heated are weaker which is not a good idea on the most important part of your bike.
Firstly, do they even need threadlock, 'cos i seriously cannot imagine them ever coming loose if torqued properly?
And secondly, as the disc is being changed, would it not be a great idea to take the bike for a spin and use a lot of rear brake, because that will heat all the disc bolts up anyway!
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You really need a blow torch on them so they're really hot.
I use thread-lock because the bike manufacturers do. They're renowned for cutting down on grease etc so if the disk bolts didn't need thread-lock they wouldn't put it on.
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You really need a blow torch on them so they're really hot.
I use thread-lock because the bike manufacturers do. They're renowned for cutting down on grease etc so if the disk bolts didn't need thread-lock they wouldn't put it on.
Yep I'm hoping I can find a wee bottle of triple 2 that I can 'borrow' from work
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I fitted new discs a month or two ago. Blow torch and heat is definitely the way to go. You don't need them red hot (they would be softer when cooled) but a minute or two for each bolt.
You'll need to shield your bearings from the heat. I used an oil filter wrench thing with foil inside it just sat over the top of the bearings.
And also good whack or two with a hammer or rubber mallet straight down on to your allen attachment to shock them.
They should then come out fine.
Andy
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Firstly, do they even need threadlock, 'cos i seriously cannot imagine them ever coming loose if torqued properly?
And secondly, as the disc is being changed, would it not be a great idea to take the bike for a spin and use a lot of rear brake, because that will heat all the disc bolts up anyway!
Agreed, threadlock is not necessary in my view. I've used Copaslip when I change the discs and they haven't unscrewed themselves.
As for the rear disc heating the screws and wheel hub, it just doesn't.
Well, no more than a few degrees anyway.
Steel is a lousy conductor so most of the heat is lost to the air directly from the disc. What little does get there is then distributed rapidly through the whole wheel (aluminium is an excellent conductor), so it never gets the bolts any more than tepid.
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Firstly, do they even need threadlock, 'cos i seriously cannot imagine them ever coming loose if torqued properly?
And secondly, as the disc is being changed, would it not be a great idea to take the bike for a spin and use a lot of rear brake, because that will heat all the disc bolts up anyway!
Agreed, threadlock is not necessary in my view. I've used Copaslip when I change the discs and they haven't unscrewed themselves.
As for the rear disc heating the screws and wheel hub, it just doesn't.
Well, no more than a few degrees anyway.
Steel is a lousy conductor so most of the heat is lost to the air directly from the disc. What little does get there is then distributed rapidly through the whole wheel (aluminium is an excellent conductor), so it never gets the bolts any more than tepid.
I can totally understand manufacturers using thread lock, they're simply covering their arse in the very unlikely event that a bolt might unscrew, plus they don't have to remove the buggers either so probably smear plenty of the strong stuff on it too.
It's quite possible the disc I tried removing was the OEM one so maybe that's why it was so difficult?
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Firstly, do they even need threadlock, 'cos i seriously cannot imagine them ever coming loose if torqued properly?
And secondly, as the disc is being changed, would it not be a great idea to take the bike for a spin and use a lot of rear brake, because that will heat all the disc bolts up anyway!
Agreed, threadlock is not necessary in my view. I've used Copaslip when I change the discs and they haven't unscrewed themselves.
As for the rear disc heating the screws and wheel hub, it just doesn't.
Well, no more than a few degrees anyway.
Steel is a lousy conductor so most of the heat is lost to the air directly from the disc. What little does get there is then distributed rapidly through the whole wheel (aluminium is an excellent conductor), so it never gets the bolts any more than tepid.
I can totally understand manufacturers using thread lock, they're simply covering their arse in the very unlikely event that a bolt might unscrew, plus they don't have to remove the buggers either so probably smear plenty of the strong stuff on it too.
It's quite possible the disc I tried removing was the OEM one so maybe that's why it was so difficult?
I think some types of threadlock continue to get stronger with age. Front discs are less of a problem because they wear out quicker, but the rear can easily be 15 years old before it needs changing. That also gives plenty of time for moisture to creep in and cause corrosion.
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Well the good news is the disc is the right fitting, the bad news is I've managed to snap one of the bolt heads in the wheel :wall The bolts were a bugger to get out, took lots of heat and took some of the thread with them. I'm going to retap the threads and use new bolts along with the threadlocker.
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Best of luck with getting the snapped one out - unless you've already done it...
I've got to admit that I hate trying to undo disk bolts cos you never know if one's gonna break.
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Firstly, do they even need threadlock, 'cos i seriously cannot imagine them ever coming loose if torqued properly?
And secondly, as the disc is being changed, would it not be a great idea to take the bike for a spin and use a lot of rear brake, because that will heat all the disc bolts up anyway!
Agreed, threadlock is not necessary in my view. I've used Copaslip when I change the discs and they haven't unscrewed themselves.
As for the rear disc heating the screws and wheel hub, it just doesn't.
Well, no more than a few degrees anyway.
Steel is a lousy conductor so most of the heat is lost to the air directly from the disc. What little does get there is then distributed rapidly through the whole wheel (aluminium is an excellent conductor), so it never gets the bolts any more than tepid.
I can totally understand manufacturers using thread lock, they're simply covering their arse in the very unlikely event that a bolt might unscrew, plus they don't have to remove the buggers either so probably smear plenty of the strong stuff on it too.
It's quite possible the disc I tried removing was the OEM one so maybe that's why it was so difficult?
I think some types of threadlock continue to get stronger with age. Front discs are less of a problem because they wear out quicker, but the rear can easily be 15 years old before it needs changing. That also gives plenty of time for moisture to creep in and cause corrosion.
They probably use the strong stuff, and yeah it does get savagely strong over time.
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Thread lock on anything other than the front sprocket nut is out as far as I am concerned.
I have heard of guys thread locking exhaust studs into the head, and the exhaust manifold nuts, that's not asking for trouble is it?
Also thread lock on front fork steering head pinch bolts and front fender/mudguard mountings, not for me in cast alloy. guys sometimes thread lock the axles in and the fork bottom pinch bolts, why?
I know some say that it is a belt and braces technique and better be safe that sorry, my new S/S head studs went in with copper slip as did my front fender mountings and my axles and all the pinch bolts.
I take the manifold nuts off one at a time just once in a while and re-apply copper slip.
I struggled like a loony getting my rear disc of when I changed it, copious amounts of plus gas for about a week before hand, gave them several hard sharp cracks with a ball pain hammer (flat side) and also used a gas blow lamp on them, they all came out but there were beads of sweat were on my brow expecting the worse, that will not happen again, proper spanner headed stainless steel bolts went back in with a smear of copper slip applied to each, that was two years ago you know what not one has come loose and I know that if I need to change it again it will be much easier next time.
Anyway those dome headed allen/allan screw headed things really are made of cheese, often your Allen key will wreak them. the sprocket is not so bad but again no thread lock, they seem to have inserts in the nuts/bolts.
I always reckon that a steel bolt going into alloy will often be a bastard to get out without thread lock because of electrolysis between the two metals that white powdery stuff inside threads is not good.
In my opinion only.
PS:
The bolts that hold the sprocket on pass right into the centre of the hub where those ventilation holes that are in the hub, you can actually see the threaded part of the bolts sticking through into the void, usually covered in rust, also 10-12 mm longer than they need to be thats 10-12mm of rusted bolt that has got to be unscrewed through the threaded soft alloy hub, (I replaced mine with Stainless Steel 10 mm shorter than the ones that came out) with Copper slip.
A Dremel with the flexy snake type lead and a small rotary wire brush helps inside the hub to clean the threads, you cant get at it all but if you clean 50% it helps, it's also a good spray plus gas on them inside the hub as well.
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IMO, a patent that needs a thread lock to stay in place is not well engineered.