Sorry for not replying yesterday guys.

You're really looking for that flaming aren't you?!

I left work after trying to adjust the clutch at the bar. To no avail, it slipped like a bugger all the way home. Got home and decided to have a look at the bottom point for adjusting the clutch, one snapped crappy screwdriver later I adjusted it and backed if off slightly.

Took it out for a spin and hey presto it's fine!

I'd forgot how bloody fast it is! Thanks for all the comments, seems the most obvious choice was the culprit.

Now back to the oil... I think it was the fact that I only had one kermit sock on that day...

I think it must have started slipping then or soon after as the clutch was nackered, coincidence rather than positive correlation.

Thanks again. I want to hear this oil debate continue! ;-)

There's nothing wrong with using fully-synthetic oil in the FZS600, so long as it's suitable. It's just more expensive then the engine needs (though you can stretch the oil change interval). If it says motorcycle oil it should be fine. The oils with friction modifiers (usually molybdenum) are the ones to avoid, they usually brag about fuel economy on the carton.
If you have got moly on the plates, you can supposedly clean them up by dismantling and giving each a good scrub with paraffin.


Other possibilties causing slip are a mistake on assembly or perhaps the adjuster in the sprocket cover being wound in too tight, though I'm not sure how that could happen accidentally.

Thanks fazerrider. Quick question, how would winding the clutch cable too tight cause a slipping issue under load? as I'm writing this i'm thinking that it could not be fully disengaging the clutch and thus the plates are moving under load...?


I don't think there was a way to assemble incorrectly and get it to work (of a fashion). I did put the basket on wrong first time, which caused it to juts spin rather than lock in place when I tightened the spring bolts but I realised my mistake and relocated it before tightening up again...

I'd be inclined to make sure the throttle cable is adjusted correctly, starting at the bottom end first.

Throttle cable Darrsi?

Quote from: philshaq on 08 April 2014, 01:05:14 pm

I'll happily try anything. I just moved it in the car park and it was slipping under partial load at 4k 


Is it likely that I'll need to replace the clutch plates as well as the oil if it is down to the oil?

Was it car oil buddy???...theres no shame...loads o folk use it on various bikes....but if so then id say it is the culprit......if bike oil then not quite so sure.????

Hi, no I bought this oil brand;


http://goo.gl/Th2kDg - from a local garage. But can't remember if it was synth or semi. Will have to check when I get home tonight.


Here's a link to the springs;


http://goo.gl/2qj3YN - they are EBC heavy duty ones.


Iwouldn't have thought the springs were the culprit as it was doing it before at around 8-9k under hard acceleration and I've changed everything barring the clutch cable as wemoto sent me the wrong item, but its got loads of life left in the one that's on currently.


It does seem to improve when the engine warms up, but only a bit...

well... It would ring true with the issues being seen on the last clutch not long after an oil change (from a rather hazy memory, it was a while ago though).


I'll check the oil when I get home tonight and if it is fully synth scream (with a combination of frustration and relief) and report back!


I replaced the springs aswell fazerrider with ones from We-Moto. The originals where a bit shorter and probably done for.

Hi guys,


I installed a set of new EBC clutch plates last weekend, first proper ride out on the bike today and its slipping quite a bit under load. One of the steel plates had a little bluing on but nothing major.


The cable is adjusted to the correct tension at the lever 1cm of slack movement. And it bites and feels really positive on initial engagement but it slips like a b**ch at 5k and again at 9k.


Any ideas?


Thanks in advance.

Hi guys,


Tis a while since I've posted, the bike's been hibernating in the garage over winter while I've been wroking on the T4 camper van.


Now thats sold I've spent some time on the Fazer, new clutch, clutch springs, cable, stainless exhaust downpipes, oil and filter change and she's running sweet 

[/size]However, I took it for a front tyre change at a local garage and the bloomin speedo packed in on the way home [size=78%]


I took it back and they were sound about it, apologised and stuff and said they'd order the part in question. Its a plastic collar with a couple of lugs on the top that fit into the wheel, does anyone know of the part? I can't seem to find it on any parts sites, just wondering how much it will cost & how available it is.


Don't want to be riding it without speed for very long!


Thanks,


Phil

I think mine had been kept indoors and only dry ridden prior to me owning so the headers are actually in fairly good nick aside from the surface rust that I'll sort tomorrow and friday.


As for the header bolts, I had a play with a few a while ago so knew that they were going to be OK. They came off really easily, I had been spraying them with DT-85 for a while though, after every wash and most weeks when it was stood outside.


I was going to make a start on the headers tonight but was late home from work and greeted by a moody Mrs Shaq I thought it best to stay out of the garage for a night!


I'll try and take some before and after shots and post them up.

Hi guys,


I haven't been on here in a while, little riding recently combined with moving house has meant I've had hardly any time for anything!


We've now moved house, and I have a garage, so the Fazer is tucked away all dry at night now as opposed to being out in the weather.


Its going in for its MOT on Saturday and I've been getting it ready for the summer after riding it all winter then putting it away since March, sadly I can't ride it this week as no MOT and a rear tyre squared off with winter riding and down to the minimum.


I've already put new front callipers on, braided hoses, sorted out the binding rear brake, un-stuck and lubed (ooherr) up a lot of parts. left to do is;


New Clutch,
New Rear Pads,


and sort out the exhaust manifold, I've taken the full exhaust off and there is quite a bit of rust that needs sorting out before I re-spray Matt Black again and put it back on.


My question is; what's the best way to get rust off? I've heard Phosphoric Acid works well and a sanding drill bit, just wondering if there are any major doo's and don't's that people have come across as I imagine that its slightly different doing an exhaust due to the high temperatures that can be reached (so Kurust etc is off limits?)


Thanks as always

Well that's good of the missus!

I've used Keiss gloves and the vest all winter. Cable comes out by the front of the seat and plugs into the bottom of the jacket.

I then just tuck the controller under the bottom of my jacket and it doesn't ever get in the way.

Just need to make sure the cable runs around the outside of your leg, otherwise it will rub on the tank and scuff the paint.

Yeah you're right, doesn't make much sense if its working fine when its warmed up. What makes you think its getting too much air?


If there is something a-miss then starting on the choke might just hide the problem rather than cure it and get it back to starting as you are used to, which I'm guessing you're aiming for.


I use the choke out of habit so tomorrow will try it without!


Sorry I can't be of more use.

I've been doing it with mine since buying it, I tend to stay away from doing it between 1st and 2nd and only between 2-3 when really pushing it as otherwise it does feel a bit clunky.


I spoke to a guy at my local garage about that and he said its easier on certain gearboxes at certain rpm, it deffinately works well 3-4, 4-5 and 5-6, hardly feel it at all 5-6.


And to answer your question the gearbox has been fine since I bought it 6 months ago with daily riding as mentioned above.

nice looking bike, I'm about 6 months off going for a thou I think otherwise I'd be very tempted!


good luck with the sale mate.