Hi Folks,

I've finally got around to sanding and painting my Givi luggage rack but could do with some advice on which paint to use.

I'm not too fussed about looks, it's corrosion protection that interests me.

Following previous efforts with poor results I'm really keen to use a good primer, but most of the anti-rust top coat paints I'm looking at seem to want to go straight on to bare metal (or even rust!). Is it just that they can do that but will also be fine on top of a primer, or must they go strait to bare metal? It's Hammerite stuff seems most common.

Is red oxide primer any good?

Which primer/paint combination would you recommend?

I'm restricting myself to stuff I can apply with a brush due to lack of facilities, and just looking for a basic satin black finish.

Advice appreciated as always.

Thanks, Andy

Okay, thanks.

And am I right in thinking no steel or stainless tools when cleaning?

Perhaps just a scotch bright or similar would do.

I'll research aluminium primers this afternoon.

Andy

Sounds like may be the ht lead caps, if you run it at night in the wet you may see them arcing to the head. I'd change them and see how you go from there.

Andy

Deefer 666 is the expert on this, I'm on the mobile at present and so can't look them up for you but if I remember right then he's detailed in previous posts how to access or even replace selector forks and drum via the sump. Might be worth searching out.

Andy

Hi, Approx location please?

Thanks, Andy

I'd work to eliminate other easy to check possibilities, then check the bearings directly.

Check there isn't anything between the front wheel and it's mudguard.
Check your chain is well adjusted and lubed. Check no tight spots.
Check type pressures and visual inspection of tyre condition. Sometimes tires can go bad and make silly noises.
Check brake caliper condition, check for binding, clean calipers if necessary.
Check there isn't a pheasant under you seat.
Other things I haven't thought of.

If you don't find anything elsewhere, then I'd look at the bearings next. Get the bike up on it's centre stand and check the front wheel for play in any direction. Check the forks (head stock bearings) too whilst you're at it. Any play change bearings.

Even if there's no play, it can still be the bearings, as sometimes when they're just starting to go bad you just get the noise without any play (yet).

You can take the wheel off and check how the bearings feel with your finger. If notchy or otherwise not free and smooth running replace.

On mine replacing the bearings fixed the silly warble noise.

Possible could be something else, just process of elimination is the best way I can advise.

HTH, Andy

Not screws, just little holes in the cylinder head around the area of the spark plug wells so that those wells can drain and don't become water logged. The holes can become blocked, just check they're clear.

Andy

Rubber seals around plug caps might have gone, or high resistance within caps combined with water could cause a cylinder to arc to head. I'd check that area.

Just to reassure you they do around 135, maybe a little more or less depending on the bike, but certainly should go right up to 100+ without thinking about it.

I guess in principle failed wheel bearings could affect your top speed, but they would have to be causing a LOT of friction to hold the bike back that much, and that amount of energy is going to show itself as heat.

I think if you're unsure of your bearings then it's a no brainier to change or at the very least inspect them irrespective.

But I'd also be looking closely and both brakes to see if there is any binding.

Perhaps is restricted in the carbs?

Andy

Hi alchemyx,

Short answer: I'd change the spark plug caps.

The HT leads are formed as part of the coils and so must be replaced together if that is really necessary. Commonly found on ebay for not a lot of money.

But most people find it's sufficient to just replace just the spark plug caps, and trim 0.5cm or so off the end of the existing HT leads to ensure a good connection (ensuring they'll still be long enough).

If you're familiar with the use of a multi-metre to measure resistance then you can test your existing coils (both sides), leads and caps to see if they're within spec.

It's quite simple to de-assemble and re-assemble, and you can find the resistance specifications in your haynes manual.

You'll probably find your caps have gone out of spec and should be replaced. They may even be arcing to the head when wet.

As far as water is concerned, new caps may help, but also a good spray with WD40 can't hurt either.

Hope this helps, and let us know how you get on.

Andy

Could well be the bearings, but binding brakes can cause this too, even when applied. Had that recently and just standard post-winter clean sorted it. Suggest give em a clean at same time as inspecting your bearings.

Andy

Anyone know, How much play is normal in shock linkage?

I've bumped the 600 on the flat just running with it and jumping on. Bit edgy but can be done. Only necessary after accidentally packing luggage while leaving lights on in, middle of nowhere in Scotland. Lot quicker than recovery. Suspect battery packs a good idea though given can also charge phone etc. Andy