Give the guys at www.tyres4bikes.co.uk a call. Ask for Stef and say Peasy sent you. He'll talk you through some options. He did my gen 1 forks after I fitted the r6 upgrade and I'm more than happy with my set up, not changed it or even thought about changing it since.
Quote from: Peasy on 19 May 2016, 09:55:29 pmGive the guys at www.tyres4bikes.co.uk a call. Ask for Stef and say Peasy sent you. He'll talk you through some options. He did my gen 1 forks after I fitted the r6 upgrade and I'm more than happy with my set up, not changed it or even thought about changing it since.AfternoonSpoke to Stef, and its by far the cheapest option. Where are you located, anyway close to hertfordshire..?
Spoke to Stef, and its by far the cheapest option.....
Alpha suspensions in Morley is worth a shout mate,
If I were in your position I would find someone local that could help you check your preload and damping settings just to make sure you have these optimally set up. With stronger springs you also need to increase the rebound damping from stock settings and this should help with the 'kick-off' you mention, increasing compression damping may help with running wide.If you're happy that you've tried all of this but still need to do something with the suspension then as you've already had new springs and oil which hasn't sorted the problem as far as I can see.So if you're getting much cheaper quotes I would make sure that you are not just paying to have new springs and oil again.
Where abouts are you based maybe you could meet up with another Foccer to compare notes? Just to reiterate I'd be careful about having the 'internals serviced' without knowing exactly what this consists of, if you want anything to change noticeably you'll want them replaced with aftermarket parts like the K-Tech kit rather than the OEM kit cleaned up and refitted with new bushes.According to this thread the OEM progressive springs are 8.0 at the top end and 12.5 at the bottom - http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,3598.msg29436.html#msg29436
The problem lies in the compression damping valves. They are simply too crude to allow decent high speed compression damping, which is what determines the ride quality. but high speed damping determines how the forks respond to rapid transient movement such as you find when hitting the usual bumps and so on in the road.but the trade off is a reduction in rebound damping. Frankly, you can do what Tyres4bikes are offering yourself at a considerably lower price. Unless you make some fundamental changes to the valving, anything else on offer will be a compromise. Yamaha are trying to make light of the fact that the stock forks are cheap and nasty.Your call but IMHO there's no cheap solution to this and anyone telling you otherwise is only selling you a band-aid.
Yeah I figured, I just don't have a tool to hold the catridge while I do up the allen bolt at the bottom - does Pats site demonstrate an work around for this..?
Dude - I've rebuilt my forks 4 times. You don't need the tool, or at least I didn't.
Quote from: AyJay on 26 May 2016, 08:06:09 pmDude - I've rebuilt my forks 4 times. You don't need the tool, or at least I didn't. Ok, but then how do you stop the cartridge tube from spinning, when doing the allen bolt up?
[size=78%]I'm persuaded by Maxton's view that the alloy damper tube does wear. A look at old fork oil coming out of several forks shows just how much metal has gone into the oil over time.[/size][/size][size=78%]Working on forks at the pro level, fitting and calibrating new valves and shim stacks for example, requires tools and workshop facilities most of us don't have. [/size][/size][size=78%]However, the simple nature of the Fazer 1000 forks makes them a lot easier to work on at the basic level of changing oil, replacing seals and bushes and fitting new springs.[/size]