This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - oberonspacefruit
Pages: [1]
1
« on: 16 April 2017, 09:56:40 am »
Thanks for all the replies, I think I, and anyone with the same problem in future has all the info there is to be had on this subject, in this thread now.
As a matter of reference, thinking on for future readers, I bought the angled NGK plug caps, thinking theyd mimic the OE ones position wise, and TBH they are too short to angle over the casting on the head so the straight ones would be better IMO. They do work, but tah may be contributing to stressing the leads due to the angles....
2
« on: 15 April 2017, 04:18:43 pm »
apart from the fittings, is there any difference between cdi coils?
is there an electrical output difference or somthing? they seem to be very specific on ebay.
is there a specified output? does anyone know the number for this year of fazer?
as you can see electrics arent my strong point......
4
« on: 15 April 2017, 10:46:35 am »
Have you looked at Dynatek coils to see if they make one that's suitable?
Just had a look and they start at £100 and go to about £180 probably a good option, and it answers my question, but with a £220 price tag for 2 coils and leads its the high end of the scale. good suggestion though
6
« on: 14 April 2017, 03:41:21 pm »
2002 fazer
Ive changed the caps to NGKs six months ago, after the bike was running rough in the rain, and it sorted the problem.
Its now losing power again, it will pick up under hard acceleration, as if a cyl is kicking in under the vibration or somthing. generally, its bearable though.
the other day i hears a clicking sound, it seems to be coming from the near side cap, it doesnt always happen immediately, but after a short ride it clicks again.
i took lead off whilst it was running, and before it died , i heard a similar click, as the lead arced out.
Now im not 100 per cent sure the click is deffo that, but as i have problems in the rain, or after washing it, im thinking it may be worth changing the leads.
when i changed the plug caps last time, i snipped 10mm off the leads to get it to contact with clean metal. the leads are now a bit tighter, and they wont take another snipping.
The problem is, new yamaha coils/leads are pretty expensive . if i have to buy them ill accept it, but on every other bike ive had ive been able to buy the coils/leads caps seperately.
So, the question is, will another aftermarket coil fit on, thats not permanently attached to the lead? that way if im replacing leads, i dont have to replace the whole unit?
Also, if i did have to stick with fazer coils, and i went for used, would late model ones work on mine? Its a bit of a risk buying 16 year old coils and leads as one unit id have thought....
Im not keen on the idea of the conversion that uses caps with integral coils, as im not great at wiring, and im not really that keen on the look of them either......
Thanks in advance for any info...
7
« on: 07 April 2017, 06:32:57 pm »
As you have split the caliper & pistons are corroded can you not grip them with a pair of water pump pliers or mole grips in the vice & with a left/right movement pull them out,
ive got a pipe wrnch on it, and its so stiff, it is just chewing the pison up. ive even hack sawed a notch into the rim of the piston to try and chisel it round to loosen it but its not playing. I may have to weld a bracket on it to get more leverage if i cant find a cheapish replacement. The 1000 blue spot looks interesting.......still be 70 quid though, plus any import duty.... cant believe theyre so hard to come by..... 
8
« on: 07 April 2017, 06:27:02 pm »
Did you try pumping the pistons out with caliper on the bike and using the brake pedal?
i did, but it wasnt forthcoming. having said that i may try re connecting it if i cant get the piston out and trying again.
9
« on: 07 April 2017, 04:48:09 pm »
2002 fzs 600
I came to change my rear pads, after the brake had been getting progressively worse. Ive noticed that the pistons are pretty far out and have a lot of corrosion around the rim. Ive taken ther calliper off, split it, got it in the vice but it wont budge with anything i can get on it, short of welding somthing to it.
I gave up for the day, and decided to look for a used caliper.
theres only 1 that i can find on ebay, its £90 and its in spain.......
so, i may have to put new pistons in this, but as the pistons are corroded-theres traces of corroded rubber, presumably a seal where it come out too far, i'm worried that bthe bore may be knackered too.
Is there any other callipers that people have used on the rear, as these seem pretty scarce, and expensive for what they are......
if not, has anybody had any dealings with re doing the pistons? ive seen stainless ones on wemoto, but its going to be about £70 for those......
An expensive day, as i probably need to replace the disc as well.....
Thanks in advance for your help
10
« on: 07 October 2016, 03:01:30 pm »
the bikes the one in my avatar.....id considered the fairing, its just that if i make a bracket im not cutting into anything so it can always go back to standard. Im not so anal that im totally against it though if its the best solution, which is why im looking for opinions........
just thought that up around the clocks is out of the rain, it says its a waterproof usb socket, but it would be good to give it a helping hand.
thanks for the suggestion though.
11
« on: 07 October 2016, 02:27:24 pm »
If you do end up getting the ngk spark plug ends, dont get the angled ones as theyre not long enough to comfortably pop out of the top of the rocker cover so you hace to turn them sideways, which is hard if youve clipped some off your leads. go for the straight ones, they will fit better.
12
« on: 07 October 2016, 02:21:52 pm »
Ive got a heated grip controller, and a usb socket i need to mount. I dont like the handlebar mounted brackets, as i think it looks cluttered and its more open to the elements im thinking about making a plate to house them, that looks like it might have been put on in the factory, as part of the dash, like somthing that may have been designed to display a temp-oil pressure guage or similar. Has anyone come up with a good looking solution for this to save me reinventing the wheel? at the moment im thinking of a brushed alloy plate near the speedo, but the gold colour may be hard to reproduce.....  whats your solution?
13
« on: 06 October 2016, 08:45:40 am »
ive disconnected the heated grips now. its been suggested that i wire them to the brake light switch. ive bought a waterproof usb socket(for a sat nav) that needs wiring in too. is it best wiring them in to a particular place? can you get a good point near the fuse box?-its easy to get to whereas the ign switchis a nest of headaches......
14
« on: 03 October 2016, 05:59:56 pm »
checked and cleaned earth wire.
it started and lit up with a jump cable.
which means
a-my battery charger is fooked.
b-my battery is fooked.
when it was running i turned it off anthen tried to start it. the lights came on but not enough power to start it- so its deffo a battery issue.
i suspect my grips have drained it- but why would it not bump start?
does it need a bit of power to bump?
15
« on: 03 October 2016, 05:18:00 pm »
2001 fzs 600
The bike fell over on grass when i parked it the other day. It started right up, and i put it away and locked it up.
Came to start it on sunday- no power to anything. Wouldnt even bump start, though i didnt try it for long.
Charged the battery last night-same problem -wont turover -no clock/ign-neutral lights
all the fuses under the seat seam to be intact
im going to try jumping starting it now, and check the earth lead, but if that doesnt work then thats the limit of my knowledge.
it has heated grips, and its wired direct to the battery, so occasionally it drains the battery, which is what i thought had happened. ive disconnected those for now.
any ideas?
16
« on: 29 August 2016, 10:04:32 am »
the air filter on ebay was a k&n one, its £20, and seeing as theyre supposed to last so long, thats why i considered it. its only 40 for new though, so, not a real biggy. I live in an area that doesnt have hard water next to the pennines, but a rad flush with the chemichals would give me piece of mind. the reason the rad may need replacement is that the outlet pipe on the right side came off while adjusting the rubber pipe. ive repaired it with an epoxy based filler, and its not leaking but its on my list to replace at some point. in terms of it being a poorly maintained bike, you may be right, we'll see, i payed a bit extra because it looked so clean. plus it was the model and colur scheme i wanted-first time ive bought the "one" rather than getting an mot fail, or a catc or the wrong colur etc.......which i the usual deal for us paupers.....  Having said all that I love the bike and i want to do right by it so if i cant afford the upgrades now, ill eventually get round to them. I does have a DID chain fitted, so at least a BIT of cash has been spent on it.....(your going to tell me that they were fitted as standard now aint ya) pip
18
« on: 29 August 2016, 08:31:45 am »
Before you ask what a TPS is, here you go. 
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13864.25.html
Ha! you know me so well....... thanks for the detailed reply. Ive ordered a set of plug caps yesterday, they were the angled ngk resistor type in the red oxide colour. When i rode it yesterday, i was backing it out and i thought id give the ht leads a wiggle to make sure they were seated. no4 was giving me a mild shock while holding it(still plugged in) while the others didnt, so at least theres one discrepancy between the 4. I watched a vid on changing the airfilter so ill do that too. how long do they last? theres a good looking second hand one on the bay right now......an unwise move? ive also downloaded the service manuals, so hopefully that should help with any procedures... regarding the rad flush, is it mainly the radiator that the scaling builds up? i only mention it as i could do with a new one anyway..... thanks agin for the reply, i research the tps thing now. pip
19
« on: 28 August 2016, 08:31:12 am »
20
« on: 28 August 2016, 08:21:35 am »
ok, sounds logical. So were not concerned abot the plugs being cr8e's rather than 9's? Also, ive not spotted an inline filter- are they standard or an aftermarket thing?
21
« on: 28 August 2016, 07:56:34 am »
OK.
fazer 600, 2001
bought it 4 months ago. couldnt ride it due to lack of licence, but had the cash (unusually) so thought fook it, spend it before its gone.
passed my test 2 weeks ago, so alls good -bikes running sweet for 3 days. Im in love. after riding a chinese 125, its like being used to greggs pasties, then being given a plate of lobster thermador on a bright day in new england.
So....
on a 40 mile run. burning hot weather, turned on to the m6, and was almost immediately stuck in the most horrendous jam- kicking myself for coming off lovely twisty national speed limit applies cheshire roads. Did two miles of very scary and probably illegal filtering, before thinking that the bike started sounding like it wasnt happy, bit of a whine, plus i was worried about the temp, although fortunately no light came on. got to manchester and the fan was kicking in several times at the lights, so cool, at least it works, didnt even know it had one, now i do. On the last few miles home, it started feeling wierd (great mechanical term, ideal for diagnosis on forums) but i put it down to the prolonged heat, and me not really knowing the bike yet.
Next day, it had a little sulk before starting, but seemed to run ok. put it down to the heat. still a niggle in the back of my mind.
changed the coolant, de ionised water 50/50 with coolant for aluminium engines. burped the hosed, re filled the resevoir.
Ran the same, no better, although i didnt expect it to.
Next day, she started to stutter a bit at low revs, setting off from junctions etc. Changing gear at around 3000rpm, a little stutter.
took it to my mate whos a car wrench monkey at the bottom of the street, to ask him if he had a carb guage, to do a bit of balancing-as suggested on this forum. he didnt. said he wasnt brilliant at working on bikes, although he has one himself. told me that it currently sounded like a misfire, when he heard it running at idle. Said change the plugs, as jap carbs dont usually need balancing if no one has been fooking about with them.
meanwhile due to it having bits of spilled coolant here and there, I take her to the jetwasher, and blast it with cold water. It now runs like stevensons rocket on a bad day. I carried wd as part of my kit, so try that. As im taking no 1 ht lead of to dowse it, the end comes off in my hand. I clip 10mm off an re screw the cap on. check all the others and they seem to at least LOOK tight. Also notice that in the spark plug recesses, its full of water, and fish tank sized grit, which i cant get out manually. It started but it still ran poorly. Took a 15 minute ride to even approach a reasonable throttle response. Not happy.
looked on the the NGK partfinder website- for a 2001 fazer it has 2 products for the 600. cr9e and cr8e. couldnt find out how to choose so went to a big bike shop in huddersfield. ebay mostly says cr9e for an fzs 600 so asked for those. The guy says, no, 8's are listed for your bike. Bought those at £27.
blasted the recesses with compressed air to get the gravel out. removed the cr9eix's -iridium tipped upgrade, and was glad i did because the looked like the had been used on the ark. Concerned that i was replacing 9's with 8's and thought that if it now runs shite, i wont be able to tell if its the old plugs causing the problem, or the new ones.
Fortunately, it starts, and its nearly like it was on day one. I ride off into the sunset vowing never to jetwash it again.
The only small crit, is again, a small hesitation pulling away. but after the last few days, i can live with it.
so......lovely sunny days, put a few hundred on the clock.
Came home from work last night, 45 min ride, over the moors. got caught in a major down pour. no problems for 10 mins, but then, it just started failing. after another 5 mins, it seemed like I had one or 2 cylinders left. if i kept the throttle at a certain place , it would pick up a bit, but if you gave it to much, it just couldnt ignite it. i could only just pull away at junctions. a combination of high revs, lots of clutch and a gradual easing off of the rain, saw me get the last 10 miles home. Didnt break down, so I thank her for that.
So shes sat outside under a gazebo. I suspect that an overnight drying will have helped, but I cant have a bike that stops when it rains.
The obvious thing seems to be to replace the ht caps, but shoud I just go ahead and replace the entire coil/lead /cap set? If its not the caps, the leads are connected permanently to the coils I believe, so it would be the whole shebang.
Ideas? Suggestions that I may have done wrong/overlooked?
Thanks in advance.
22
« on: 26 August 2016, 06:35:40 am »
fixed the brake as per instruction. its a lot better now, maybe TOO much, pads seem fine, but it seems either on or off now, a real lack of progressive braking to it. im probably being fussy, ill let it bed in and see how it goes.
the how to thread on the engine looks great but i think ill avoid the plasticote, ive hade nothing but problems with that brand reacting with every other type of aerosol. your bike looks sweet though....
23
« on: 26 August 2016, 06:31:10 am »
An original exhaust will whine the most.
i think it may be , it has yamaha, tdm stamped on it.......unless of cource its off a tdm.
24
« on: 11 August 2016, 09:25:05 am »
Hello chaps new to the forum. 2 things for the moment- 1: I'm painting my engine in situ-its bubbled under the paint a bit and its letting it down. im going to wire dremmel the flakes off, and wet and dry it to the same level...thats my plan unless you suggest a different one! what paint have you had a good result with? ive used por15 before but its not a topcoat and its very expensive. also, did you use gloss or semi? 2: I passed my mod 2 on tuesday (woohoo) and ive been riding a fazer 600. On my first ride on my fazer at home, i noticed that A: the rear brake is a lot lower/more travel and B: it has a whine coming from the engine. Not the normal fazer whine, they both had that, its somthing else, not loud, not too worrying but it sounds different to the one ive been practicing on. its rotational, on accelleration. Are there common maintainance things that it may not have had done by the previous owner that cause this? i know its hard to pinpoint without hearing it but i hoped there may be a list of common whines- (add your own joke here) Thanks in advance....
Pages: [1]
|
Show Posts