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Messages - tommyardin
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1901
« on: 01 February 2017, 09:05:31 pm »
Im no engineer but at 10k and physically looking at the old next to new I would say that it did not need changing.
I last looked at mine 2000k ago and it looked ok to me and that was at 18k.
Your probably right Sharpie, I guess it all depends on how you maintain your chain, I'm a bit anal when it comes to looking after the chain and lubing it. I use Motul spray chain lube, it sticks well and does not fly off excessively making a mess of the back wheel. It's due a clean and lube now so it will get done when the sprocket goes on, as stated earlier I was going to put on the new Renthal 15T, But thinking about your comments with regard to the old one think I will put the 16T back on as it does probably does have 3 or 4K left in it.  Cheers Sharpie
1902
« on: 01 February 2017, 08:50:15 pm »
1903
« on: 01 February 2017, 07:03:31 pm »
If memory serves me the copper gasket washers are compresssion type and squash down and would be flatter and bigger when they come out.
When you put the new ones in smear a bit of grease over the face to the engine it helps them to stay in place when you fit the downpipes and torque the nuts up to correct tightness
Exactly they are indeed meant to compress, I have heard that they are sometimes known as crush Gaskets, when they crush or compress they expand.The gaskets I got with my S/S down pipes were round in profile and had to dab some grease on them to hold them in plase while I lined the down pipes, They have certainly never leaked at the manifold.
1904
« on: 01 February 2017, 03:35:09 pm »
The quickest easiest and simplest way of checking the slack on the FZS600 chain is as follows:
Rotate the rear wheel to find the tightest part of the chain.
Now push the chain up to just touch the rubber swinging arm protector.
If you cannot just touch the swinging arm protector with the chain, adjust it until you can.
That is exactly the way I do it you end up with about 40 mm at the tightest point of the chain, it might seem a lot but my understanding is that as the rear suspension compresses the chain tightens by that action.
1905
« on: 01 February 2017, 12:47:12 pm »
So how many miles has the sprocket had.
Be interesting to see a pic of the new one next to the old
New 15 tooth Front Sprocket and Locite 620 arrived this morning. A few pictures follow. The old sprocket looks very good considering it has done between 10 and 11K. Plus a picture comparing old sprocket tab washer to the upgraded new.
1906
« on: 01 February 2017, 02:00:35 am »
They're on a win win as well, 'cos if it's faulty, or just shite, there's no way you're gonna splash out to return stuff, you'd just bin it.
Totally agree, I bought from China what was supposed to be X Mini Speakers. I have had the X Mini's before they are brilliant little speaker and you can daisy chain several together and get a really full sound out of them. Trouble is my daughter keeps nicking them, so I bought these two from China, they were delivered after about two weeks they really look the biz plug then into my iPod and now I see why they were only half the price of the one I bought before. They are a complete fake, they were never made by X Mini, they are really tiny sound and the cones buzz like a demented wasp. As darrsi says it would cost me a small fortune to send the buggers back with insurance on them, and a lot of returned stuff never gets there, Missing in transit do you have insurance Sir. In the bin with them.
1907
« on: 01 February 2017, 01:42:25 am »
there are times when I look for 7th gear.
I'm always tugging up for 7th, makes me mad, I'm going the GlPro way and fitting a cog counter. That will be my next project.Still not set the loaded rider sag on my baby yet since the suspension upgrade. The Rear static sag (Weight of the bike on the suspension) is 16 mm from fully extended.The Front static sag is 25 mm from full extended.I'm looking Rear loaded Rider sag of 35-40 mm fully togged up ready to ride, feet on the pegs (Full weight on the suspension)And 40 to 45 mm on the Front Forks.But its one of those jobs you need a few spare hands, and, people you can trust to measure accurately while you sat on the bike with someone else balancing/holding the bike upright without applying and down pressure or lifting at all.I have the right guys to help but this weather is so shit I don't fancy the 25 mile ride total to get it sorted. just have to wait till it warms up a bit, as I don't do rain or cold, and I came off too many times as a younger guy cos of snow and ice.Anyway I have just made a curry for tomorrow evening supper, I like to make it the day before cos it marinades, and curry always tastes better the next day. Peter a mate of mine loves spices and makes a chilli paste/sauce that he calls 'Diabolo' it has so much heat in it, but the flavour is delicious just half a level teaspoon is enough in a curry for 4 people,it is as hot as I can bear it and my family are about the same when it come to Diabolo tolerance so all is good. He grows all the mini red chillies and limes and coriander and all the other stuff that goes into it, he says that he wants to know that everything is perfect before it get the title 'A Peter Woson Production'  Beginning to feel like Mary Berry here lol!Ingredients thus far1 kilo of chicken breasts, 1 large onion finely chopped, 3 gloves of garlic crushed, 1 large potato diced, 1 large parsnip diced, 1 large carrot diced, 2 red capsicum peppers, 1 green capsicum pepper, half a level teaspoon of Peters Diabolo paste, (and here come the cheat) 1 Jar of Sharwoods Extra Creamy Tika Sauce. And tomorrow for the final cook a few florets of cauliflower and a hand full of cashew nuts. Mmmmmm  What this has got to do with a spongy clutch I do not know.
1908
« on: 01 February 2017, 12:45:29 am »
On the second picture, the one with the number 16 on it you can see the shape of the chain links at the base of the sprocket teeth, its just polished there is no ridge, it looks much worse than it is. Maybe the chain was running just a tad out of true cos the polishing effect of the chain is not so pronounced on the flip side
1909
« on: 01 February 2017, 12:41:23 am »
There has been some big discussions on here about tooth numbers and the effect on RPM at different speeds and also something about the same link hitting the same cog more often with certain front and rear tooth amounts.
Have a search on here for it.
When I do mine I have decides to go with standard extra acceleration would be good but there are times when I look for 7th gear.
I would be good to take some side by side pictures of your old and new sprocket for wear comparison.
Hi Sharpie, Just cleaned the old sprocket and taken a couple of pictures one from each side and you can just make out a very, very slight hooking just starting so it will be good to replace it. I will try the new 15 tooth sprocket and if I don't like it I will get a 16 and replace it.
1910
« on: 31 January 2017, 10:03:52 pm »
Oops! forgot to add picture, hope i don't forget to add the sprocket tomoz
1911
« on: 31 January 2017, 10:01:49 pm »
Hey Sharpie, Same as that matey peeps. Just been in the shed and taken the cover off cleaned it all up in there ready for the new sprocket to go on in the morning.
That all depends on the friendly man in the big white van arriving with my new sprocket and the Loctite 620 of course tomorrow.
The Renthal sprocket I ordered is advertised as a standard sprocket Ie: 15 tooth.
The one i have just removed from the bike is 16 tooth, I know my Fazer had a chain and sprocket set fitted about 1K miles before I bought the bike (The bike was well maintained) so chain and sprockets have now done about 9 or 10K so I thought a new front sprocket was a good idea, although there is no hooking to the front sprocket as yet but I am aware the beasties are case hardened and one the case hardening is compromised the little buggers wear out quickly shagging the rest of the drive train with it.
Any ideas Sharpie will the one tooth down on the front make that much difference? I know for track days 14 tooth is often recommended for better power out of the bends, just I dont want to lose to much top end if it only make about 5 or 6 mph difference off the top I can live with that as the better aceleration will more than make up for it.
Wot-cha-fink?
Woo woo! All cleaned up and ready to party
1912
« on: 31 January 2017, 09:35:38 pm »
I've always used an inch (ask my x) never had any problems with premature wear but if it should be looser then I bow to your superior knowledge
No Superior knowledge here Joe, just a workshop manual. 
1913
« on: 31 January 2017, 09:31:07 pm »
Evening foccers, just wondering what the correct rear wheel but torque value is and what the chain sag should be and how to correctly set and measure it.
Torque setting for the rear wheel axle nut on the FZS 600 is 117 Nm, Front wheel FZS 600 is 67Nm.
1914
« on: 31 January 2017, 05:49:05 pm »
The 1000 Fazer will probably/definately be different with regard to the previous comment pics.
Final Drive Chain slack FZS 600 1988-1999 = 30 to 40 mm slack
2000 onwards models FZS 600 = 30 to 45 slack
Seems the same to me with a little bit of tolerance
1915
« on: 31 January 2017, 05:47:06 pm »
Evening foccers, just wondering what the correct rear wheel but torque value is and what the chain sag should be and how to correctly set and measure it.
Torque setting for the rear wheel axle nut on the FZS 600 is 117 Nm, Front wheel FZS 600 is 67Nm.
1916
« on: 31 January 2017, 05:05:24 pm »
Oh! And one other thing thinking about it, under the front sprocket cover just in front of the sprocket itself is a clutch push rod that is actuated by the clutch cable via an internal leaver system this lever system can get completely gunged up with dirt and dust and other road grime mixed up with a load of thick greasy dirty chain lube, just another thing to check as all that crap could also act as a damper on the clutch action.
If it is not that then you will at least have a nice clean sprocket clutch push rod area on the bike so it is not wasted time.
1917
« on: 31 January 2017, 04:58:26 pm »
Were you sitting on a spinning washing machine when you took those photos?
You not tried it Darrsi? you really should, make your eyes water.
1918
« on: 31 January 2017, 04:52:42 pm »
arcing from plug caps will also cause those symptoms
Spent spark before it reaches the plug electrodes
1919
« on: 31 January 2017, 04:44:11 pm »
Hi guys
Been having a little problem with my clutch recently for about a month and a half/2 months.
Every so often the clutch becomes really spongy for a few moments but then will go back to normal, it's very temperamental and I was wondering if anyone could give me any ideas of what could be causing it?
I don't mind having to buy a new clutch as springs and plates ain't that overpriced, and I already have a new clutch cable waiting
Hope you guys can help as always 
Thanks
Just a thought, you say you have a new clutch cable to fit, so I am assuming that you feel something is not quite right with the cable. Worth a try, why not fit the cable and see if it makes any difference before shelling out on springs and plates and also a lot of work changing them, as it may not be necessary. If the cable is dragging hanging up it would/could make the clutch feel spongy, by not biting quickly, because it is dragging, inner operating wire on the outer cable, could almost be acting like a bit of a shock absorber. Just a thought.
1920
« on: 31 January 2017, 04:11:57 pm »
Been experiencing grinding sounds in the chain department and a quiet knock on corners; thinking it related to the winter road crap and salt (how much lube do I have to throw at this not year old chain ffs) I figure a clean is in order.
Removed the front cover, loads of crap around the front sprocket so the scoop out begins and suddenly once enough crud is removed to my horror the the sprocket wobbles.
The new wider nut has come off. I found the lock washer down below which had been bent round the nut as required
but some how flattened off.
I replaced the chain and sprocket in May, torqued correctly (imo) to the spec suggested for wider nut.
Hey Midden! I bet when you started this post off you did not realise it would go on so long. well done buddy
1921
« on: 31 January 2017, 03:35:27 pm »
If you fitting new nut and sprocket just dremel the old one off making sure you don't touch the threads on the end of the shaft.
LOL! How long you been a mind reader Jules? I am just sorting out the stuff to remove the 12 mm nut if it proves to be a bugger like the 9 mm one was. The mouth wash, tomato kethup and bananas play no part in the operation.
1922
« on: 31 January 2017, 07:55:30 am »
Yamaha put their hands up to that fault and have replaced free of charge the 9 mm nut with a 12 mm nut when bikes went in for a service or maintenance
Mine never got replaced at service or maintenance.
When I went to purchase the 12mm nut at the dealers they didn't seem to be aware of the issue at all.
They tried to sell me the old 9mm nut until I handed them the part number for the uprated one and asked them to just order that, rather than keep referencing back to parts list.
The independent garage I currently use knew all about the situation when I took the nut kit to them for fitting
Hi YamFazFan,
A request went out to all Official Yamaha dealerships telling them to replace the nut and washer as a matter of course whenever an FZS 600 came into their workshops to have work done to them, and the replacement was free, and the workshop was to put a centre punch mark after the info on the frame plate near the steering head. There was never an official call back as it was deemed to be a relatively small number of machines afflicted with this fault/problem and judging by the numbers of FZS 600 still about some 14 to 19 years later it sort of bears this out. And to be honest if this wasn't the case would we be the proud owners of our bikes or would we all be on Honda or Quackers.
Hi tommyyardin
I wonder if because my Fazer was one of the last in the production run it wasn't affected by this issue?.
The original 9mm nut never came adrift thankfully, but it's got to be a good idea to fit the uprated nut anyway isn't it.
As I said its all history now as far as Yamaha is concerned, the FZS 600 has a reputation for being a reliable bike with a bomb proof engine as long as it is serviced regularly, OK it had a quirky issues with the front sprocket nut letting go but, only on some bikes. I wonder what the mileage was on the bikes with the problem sprockets, I wonder if the front sprockets had been changed on any of them? if that was the case had the nuts been done up properly. Anyway YamFazFun, me, I'm just an old Joe Blow who rides and enjoys his FZS600, but it would seem to me to be a wise thing changing the Nut and washer when changing the front sprocket, Yamaha call it an upgrade kit so it's certainly an improvement even if some have found that the original was a bastard to get off as I did, as I said I nearly bust a blood vessel in my neck straining to undo the bugger, even with a 3 foot length of 1 1/2" inch galvanised steel pipe over the socket wrench handle and still managed to bend the pipe. The windy gun just shocked the shit out of it and it eventually let go. I think a lot of that issue is caused by the 620 Locite, but its better to have that removal problem, which is manageable, than to have the sprocket come off messing up your output shaft or worse still causing you to come off when it all goes tits up.
1923
« on: 31 January 2017, 12:22:14 am »
Fazersharp, as much as i totally get your point about '98's not having an issue, i would've loved to see your exact bike under the strain of all year round weather for the last 18 years.
Every bike is obviously different but yours has been a tad pampered.
We all pamper those we love. My FZS 600 is pampered, (as is my MR2 Spider is pampered) the Fazer gets treated well, never ridden purposefully in the rain, has the best cleaning products on it (Oh no! Personal preferences again) oil changed on or before due, spark plugs every 6k or every other oil change, air filter every other year bearing in mind the bike probably only gets ridden two or three times between beginning of Nov and end of Feb. I purchased some carbatooter balancing gauges about a year ago so I am hoping to be able to get around to balancing them this week along the the new front sprocket
1924
« on: 30 January 2017, 10:26:17 pm »
Mine actually did the opposite, and it took my mechanic supposedly 40mins to get my nut off!
That sounds so wrong....
It does on all levels 
1925
« on: 30 January 2017, 10:10:08 pm »
Yamaha put their hands up to that fault and have replaced free of charge the 9 mm nut with a 12 mm nut when bikes went in for a service or maintenance Mine never got replaced at service or maintenance. When I went to purchase the 12mm nut at the dealers they didn't seem to be aware of the issue at all. They tried to sell me the old 9mm nut until I handed them the part number for the uprated one and asked them to just order that, rather than keep referencing back to parts list. The independent garage I currently use knew all about the situation when I took the nut kit to them for fitting Hi YamFazFan, A request went out to all Official Yamaha dealerships telling them to replace the nut and washer as a matter of course whenever an FZS 600 came into their workshops to have work done to them, and the replacement was free, and the workshop was to put a centre punch mark after the info on the frame plate near the steering head. There was never an official call back as it was deemed to be a relatively small number of machines afflicted with this fault/problem and judging by the numbers of FZS 600 still about some 14 to 19 years later it sort of bears this out. And to be honest if this wasn't the case would we be the proud owners of our bikes or would we all be on Honda or Quackers.
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