1992 was the year the burger van caught alight at the Bulldog Bash.Scary old night that was.

I bet it smelt great though

Anyway it is past my bed time so I shall wish you late night owls a pleasant night. so Good night girls X   

Every foccing review you read about anything, some idiot says 'it does exactly what it says on the tin' Stop it! You your bloody imagination and say something original. Please.

It is just like the twats that always say 'At the end of the day' after just about everything they say.

To the admins and moderators of this group;
Can you please try to have a little more control over who you let in. There is a new member.... An older woman and she has been privately propositioning men!
She sends naked pictures of herself along with close ups of her private parts. She is offering an iPhone 7 in exchange for sexual favours.
I am especially upset at this last part because, as it turns out the phone wasn't even an iPhone 7....... It was a iPhone 6!!!
And it obviously has a virus because it's ridiculously slow and on top of that, the power button sticks !
                                 Morphy

Seen on another forum

The iPhone has a very good vibration mode on it so it make you wonder what was causing the power button to stick, no I don't want to borrow your phone to hold up close to my nose and mouth to make a call. 

Early Fazers (Boxeyes) up to 2001 weight 210 Kilograms, the 2002-2003 (Foxeyes) weigh 214 Kilograms, both these weights are kerbside weights with all fluids in the bike with a full tank of fuel, so I guess the difference in weights between the two models is that the later foxeyes have a slightly larger fuel tank.

Right my rider weight is 89 Kilos the kerbside weight of my bike is 214 kilos the power at the Crankshaft 96 BHP.
all this put into the calculator that Tiger (Frosties) put into his post above comes out at 316.83 BHP per Ton with my arse on the seat. 

Thus far Tiger I bow to your racing prowess as uno numero.

Quote from: fazersharp on 09 March 2017, 07:29:28 pm

Quote from: shieldr on 09 March 2017, 06:23:15 pm

Cheers for the posts. For clarity the manifold was blowing a bit and the plan to nip the nuts up was to slacken off a touch, scoot with wd40 then nip up.  When turning anticlockwise to loosen, the nuts rounded with almost no force at all. The central manifold nuts are very badly corroded. Due to the risk of shearing and coupled with the fact that I have to watch rugby and drink beer this weekend said bike will be visiting the local garage next Wednesday. "loosey lefty righty tighty". 😁

Ahhh now it makes sense, watch out because they may snap them and then want to charge you the extra for fixing. A few weeks with a penetrating oil as mentioned earlier would be the best way to go, I used an oil for cleaning guns and a is called Kroil  (creeping oil )its very thin and smells a bit of nampther from what I remember nampther smelling like , I applied it for weeks on to the nuts with a syringe to reach right in and behind the bracket collars also, my nuts came off ok but the bike has not seen rain for 17 years       

It"s probably dying to go and have a good splash about in the rain. 

I have made a profound discovery and have acted upon it.


My old socket set has been confined to the back of the shed, who the f--k thought it was a good idea to make sockets with a 12 point fitting when nuts and bolts have six points. they have a much less meaty grip on the bolt and Yamaha ferrous cheese bolts lose their corners very easily, so I purchased me a new socket set with 6 point sockets they are so much better than their 12 point cousins. Fuck you Hilka you are confined to the deep dark corners of spanner hell.

I had a flapping/clicking sort of noise once when riding home after a long trip, I stopped several times to try and find the source of the noise to no avail. So I pulled into a service area and had a cup of tea whilst giving the bike a though check over, found nothing finished my tea got back on the bike and no noise, a mystery.


About 3 weeks later I jumped on the bike just to pop down to my local town, Petersfield in Hants, and foc me the noise was back, I sat at home that night thinking about those two trips and the only common thing between the two trips was I wore my old Duchinni Helmet and not my LS2 Convert.
Now this is the embarrassing bit, it transpired that the noise was in fact the helmet strap tapping away on the back of my collar and the back of the helmet, The old Duchinni is one of those double D ring type fittings on the strap and I had not done the little popper up at the end of the strap, on my first trip when I noticed the noise I must have done the popper up after my cup of tea stop and again 3 weeks later when it happened again.


Now the upshot of this post is, apart from not coming out of all this in a very great light is, we often think the worse because we love out bikes and are fearful that something is going drastically wrong.
This is what I thought, is my cam chain focced, is it a small end bearing breaking up maybe a wheel bearing cos the noise gets less as I slow down and stops when the bike is stationary. No its a wayward helmet strap 

Hi any admins out there can you help as Darrsi has just talked me out of committing sideways? no suicide because of this.
Ok ok! who said FFS Darrsi let the twat do it.

Had a great little ride out this afternoon in the sunshine, did not go far, about 14 miles I guess, down to a local lake and took some piccys of the Baby FSZ in the sunshine, turning around, visiting some friend for a chin wag and a cup of tea before going home and booking my families trip to St Louis to visit my Son (Jack) at the end of May this year.
London HR to Chicago O'hare to St Louis, Missouri.

Not been State-side since 1998 so looking forward to it, just going for 12 days as her-in-doors has to get back for school half term re-starting, no she not a school girl she a teacher, she gets a week half term and the college have given her a weeks sort of sabbatical as she has worked in the same college for 32 years.

Woo woo! look out America.       Duelling banjos     Guns, and we all know about the red necks

tommy 

Why does a random biker who happens to be on the otherwise of the planet deserve a R.I.P thread? People die on the roads every day it is life get over it.

I agree with Captain C, he is right people do die every day all across the world caused by all sorts of differing causes. But if you can not find it in your heart to say something kind about the loss of somebody don't say anything at all. My sympathy goes out to her loved ones. RIP.

I've never seen anything like that before! 


I had a look at the two bolts when I took them out and they're not standard ones, so the last dickhead whoc changed the disc must've ran out of bolts an dused whatever was lying around.
They're 5mm longer, which meant they protruded out the other side of the wheel and corroded to shit, making getting them through the thread a real pain.

That's odd, because all my disk bolts were longer and protruded 10mm or more into the centre of the wheel, with a lot of fiddling, swearing and achy wrists I was able to get into the wheel hub with a dremel and flexi drive with a small wire brush and clean up most of the threads and gave a sharp crack or two with a claw hammer on the head each bolt, whilst drenching them in W/D, little bit of heat with a gas gun and struggled but got them all out. i ran a tapered tap down each of the threads to clean them out and fitted the new disk with shallow headed (For clearance) stainless steel hex headed bolts. So hopefully if I ever need to remove the disk again it will come off ok. The stupid Allen Key headed screws that Yamaha fit are rediculas.

I've just been in touch with a member of another forum who will strip and ultrasonically clean and rebuild carbs for £60 inc return postage. Thats £60 for the set, not each. Of course if any parts are required you'll have to pay for them but thats a bloody bargain, I've seen adds asking for £45 per carb.

I've not had mine done yet but will post results when I get them back

FUCK I'm sure I sent 4 away, anyone know who to adapt the carb rubbers to suit the triple carb setup.

Hi Graham your bike comes with progressive springs as standard,  so they are what the bike was designed  to run on. I have Hyperpro  progressive springs  in mine and Luke R6 shock kits.  Had problems  with mine to start  with , spoke to Luke and he'd spent a lot of time helping  me out, but the front settings  back from Hyperpro settings to the Yamaha  standard  settings  and very  very much improved,  will now run and see how  I go.Do not give up, I think you're  mechanics have got some thing wrong, speak to Luke he really  knows his stuf and I am sure will help you out. Good  luck.

I was told that the FZS 600 came with Progressive springs as standard, but in fact they are not progressive they are 'Dual Rate' springs please see photo of the springs i removed from my FZS 600.

Progressive Spring as the name implies change rate slowly from one end to the other (Slow change in the pitch of the spring from one end to the other) = smooth increasing compression transition, stiffening throughout their length, should equal better handling.

Dual Rate Spring (See picture) again as the name implies two compression rates, after the initial softer rate is overcome the second harder or stiffer rate come into play causing changes in the motorcycles geometry (Especially when cranked over into a bend and hitting undulations in the road surface) = arse clamping up and nasty marks in your Y fronts.

See the piccy and the spring rate changes at the place my finger is pointing.

My understanding is that progressives are a vast improvement on the Standard Yamaha Springs, but it is a 'One Spring Suits All' situation
Ideally one spring can not suit a 9 stone rider and the same spring suit a 20 stone rider, it will always be a compromise.

With Linear the spring rate stays the same throughout the total length of the spring,
of course progression still comes into play but it does not change rate =  better stability, constant contact and feel and little or no diving in or running wide on a bend because of geometry changes because of bumps and lumps mid bend. You purchase the spring rate to suit your on board rider weight.

Please remember these rantings are only my opinion and lots of others will have differing opinions, its a bit like tyre choice, brake pads, engine oil, air filters, braided lines, (Only it's nothing like those choices really I am just saying that to patronise you) but of course when it comes to bike colour choice it's SILVER every time = no choice

Lots of very cleaver guys on here when it comes to suspension Kabab19 and Devilsyam  for a start, look up their writings and thoughts on the subject, me I'm just a newbie, still learning and still getting it wrong sometimes.