This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - tommyardin
« on: Today at 01:34:24 PM »
« on: Today at 06:18:57 AM »
when it comes to an important piece like that i dont like to bodge
i do in many other areas as it is
i have managed to find one for £35 just waiting for it to arrive
update email says its being processed so god knows
Tis good you have one coming and you found it at a better price than initially thought.
I only mentioned the aquarium tank T piece because in you first post you said 'anyone know of any suppliers or anything that fits and is available cheap?
sounds like you will soon have the bike back on the road.
« on: 27 April 2017, 11:39:38 PM »
The bike ran fine with the pump disconnected and a temporary tank plumbed straight into the feed to the carbs.
The pump had been shutting off ok, and it was only leaking when running, but as I've tried pretty much everything else at this point I've ordered a second-hand replacement pump off ebay and will give that a try.
Plan B, if that doesn't work, then I'll have the carbs off (yet) again and give them another clean. I think that the most likely culprit at this point is a valve which is sealing just well enough to stop the fuel at atmospheric pressure, but not well enough to stop the fuel when the pump is running and the engine is vibrating.
If Plan B fails then Plan C is to get the carbs cleaned and overhauled by a professional.
Or a 5 gallon can in a top box plumbed in directly.
Sorry not helpful I know, but would certainly make the bike handle weird with 50 lb weight of fuel up high slopping around.
I notice that BB made a comment about the carb drain screw or screws are the tight and sealed? just sometimes the obvious is easily overlooked.
Good luck and I hope you sort it soon as I'm sure it is trying your patience.
As it only does this while the bike is running could it be to do with a carb fuel shut off valve letting go with the vibration, I think this is called clutching at straws.
As I said 'Good Luck'.
« on: 27 April 2017, 11:18:03 PM »
Did you source a T piece ? I'm breaking a set of carbs so I have one available
Stupid though maybe, but, what is the outside diameter of the T pipe could you use a T piece from a aquarium the sort of fitting that goes into a fish tank air line.
As I say it is just a thought, one like that if it fitted is likely to cost you 90 pence and available at most garden centres.
I will measure a fitting on one of my tanks ......................................
4.75mm outside diameter and made of plastic, the internal bore is 3mm.
Not sure how it will stand up to petrol? But cheap plastic fuel cans do.
Just a thought
« on: 27 April 2017, 11:05:11 PM »
50k, yeah almost all city riding through London, lots and lots of slow speed stuff...
If the clutch centre and drum are badly worn (grooved) is it worth filing the worst of the grooves out (Or just reducing them) and remove any rough edges off the centre or drum and see if there is any marked improvement? if there is then it would indicate that the clutch assembly is Focced.
I know years ago we used to dress out any groves in the drum slots on my old BSA Super Rocket and the Norton Dommy 99 I had.
It can certainly give a few more thousand miles out of the assembly, the downside is that as the slots will be that much wider than the tongues on the plates it will cause the plates to rattle and of course wear quicker because of the hammering effect of the loose fitting tongues or lugs. but it should give you a summers worth of riding and a project for next winter replacing the whole assembly.
You might find that a Dremel with a small grind stone would be better on the clutch centre and a file for the drum, I personally would remove the whole clutch from the bike and work in a vice if you have access to one .
« on: 20 April 2017, 12:23:01 AM »
If the oil is old just changing it for new oil will make a big difference. So at 19 years old should I be changing my oil.
I after setting the level I added another 10cc of oil to each leg and it has increased the spring rate a bit so I reckon it's worth a try
And without me bothering to find out --- what do I do (in a nutshell )
I thought you were saying you were 19 years old you tart, and the other 60 lol!
« on: 18 April 2017, 11:29:30 PM »
Was sorted ages ago, when we set up the articles section...
How do we move some nice threads to Articles how to sections?
I was looking for suspension upgrades for my FSZ 600 and although there are plenty for how to threads about rear and front (mostly from kebab19), in the articles section there is no any FSZ 600 suspension Arcticles?
The reason why most of the threads about suspension are from Kebab19 is because he is the Bogs Dollocks when it come to suspension, especially the front end. A Pioneer one might say.
« on: 18 April 2017, 11:24:36 PM »
Whaddya think? would it work. I am sick and tired of online sites as i end up meeting girls that just don't measure up?
My Mrs been saying that about me for years
« on: 18 April 2017, 11:23:50 PM »
« on: 18 April 2017, 11:20:35 PM »
Are you uploading them on a wireless network or via mobile data?
Ensure that the phone wireless is switched on, because if its working via mobile data a pic of 2 megs may take to long to up load and abort (Timeout)
Could it be that you have inadvertently changed the photo resolution on your camera to a higher setting? By mistake maybe, it happens.
« on: 18 April 2017, 10:47:36 PM »
Vinny, Try putting in 15 weight oil and if you feel its a little harsh/overly firm just loosen of the two top yoke to fork leg pinch bolts, Make sure the front wheel is off the ground Ie: no weight on the wheel, then unscrew the top of fork leg cap bolts and with a syringe and a sort length of fish tank air line draw out a measured amount of the 15 weight and replace it with the same amount of 10 weight or even 5 weight until you are happy with the results.When you draw out the say 10ml of 15 weight oil into the syringe while the fish tank pipe is still in the fork leg pull the pipe off the syringe so that the oil in the pipe runs back into the leg.To put the replacement oil back into the leg you do not need the pipe, so it will be exactly what you have in the syringe that goes back into the leg.It's just fine tuning the oil weight really. It should take no longer than 30 mins to do the oil tuning. DON'T FORGET the top yoke pinch bolts, 30 Nm torque.Top of fork leg plug nuts 23Nm torque.Good luck.
« on: 18 April 2017, 10:27:54 PM »
If you don't want to go to the trouble of the Emulators and the associated work on the Damper Rods, fit a pair of Linear Springs matched to your fully clothed rider weight, they will be matched for you and not compromise in any way. I have heard some say that they are not matched when you have a pillion or luggage on the back, but, that applies to Progressives or Dual-Rate Springs (Standard FZS600) the same as it does to Linear Springs.And to be honest the pillion makes more difference to the back of the bike than it does the front.If you sit in one of your dinning room chairs and place your feet flat on the floor in front of you, then lean back against the back of the chair the front legs tend to lift off the ground, my experience is this is similar to the front of a bike, the weight at the back can cause the front to be a little lighter, you are transfering more weight backwards, if this is true then a pillion should not make much difference to any front spring set up.Now the ass end is a completely different situation.
I realise it's a topic that's been done to death but there seem to be so many opinions about the best way to go to improve the standard front end. I thought I would try to get a consensus. I'm thinking of doing the emulator/ linear springs thing but it's an arse to do and not without risks and potential problems so what about progressives and 15w oil but there are at least half a dozen options there and they can't all be the same can they? I could start by just changing the oil out, I can't imagine it's ever been changed but do I put 10 or 15w in?
So I'm trying to get peoples assessments of whatever they've done, whether it has achieved what they set out to do and if was worth the cost and effort involved. thanks.
« on: 18 April 2017, 10:11:34 PM »
« on: 18 April 2017, 10:07:21 PM »
« on: 18 April 2017, 10:04:42 PM »
Being a bit of a Numpty, would it not work in an adverse way with the mono-shock upside down, there must be fluid or a fluid/gas combination in there, surely gravity would have that fluid or fluid/gas combination on the wrong side of the piston, above in the compression area.
I am just asking the question as I really do not know, I do know that you can get USD front forks but they are designed like that,but I am not very hopeful that a set of RSU forks would work in the USD position and my thoughts would be the same for a mono-shock that is mounted the wrong way up.
Please enlighten this Numpty.
« on: 18 April 2017, 06:43:56 PM »
Hi guys,I am looking for some advice, I dropped my bike (FZS600) a couple of years ago, it was stationary at the time, so, no great damage, but it did put a couple of cracks in the front fairing, one where the off side indicator is mounted and on at the rear end of the front fairing where the rear fixing screw is.Now I am quite a dab hand at fibre glass repairs so I removed the fairing from the bike and thoroughly cleaned (Brake and Clutch Cleaner) the inside of the fairing where the damage was and scored it with a sharp chisel to form a key for the glass resin, I laminated the area giving a good 3 inches past each crack with 2 layers of course matting and one layer of fine glass mesh.With the fairing infill panels in place the repairs are completely invisible. I have lived with it for two years but feel it's time for a makeover, the cracks are hardly noticeable when viewing the bike, unless you are doing a close inspection, but want to do a better job by scratching out the cracks and using some fine filler and respraying, here comes the issue how the FOC do I get the FAZER decals off the fairing without doing more damage that is already done.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.For those who read my post with regard to the passing of my much loved MR2 Mk 3, I have decided to replace it with a BMW Z4 2.5 straight 6 , I tell you this as a warning as BMW drivers are not very popular in here, mainly because most of them need a white stick, that is those who look, but don't see, the others just need a swift blow to the side of the temple. I am hoping not to fall into either category.
« on: 17 April 2017, 09:57:06 PM »
Great progress man!
As for colours then everyone will just suggest the same colour as their own bike (because everyone thinks their colour is the fastest... haha) I do love the origonal yamaha colour of deep purplish blue metallic cocktail, same as my foxeye but got for something completely different. I always think the fazers shape lends itself well to a strip of different colour down the middle. the tank has the raised centre section, the tail unit has the centre section and the front can easily be seperated between the lights or whatever. Go on give it a racing stripe then it'll be super fast. haha.
I had my wheels done gloss black and think it looks much nicer than the standard satin black too as they never looked clean and shiney to me.
Keep us updated!
Yeah Chris is right about all Fazer owners thinking their colour is the fastest, all except the Silver Owners they don't just think they know LOL
« on: 17 April 2017, 09:48:08 PM »
I'm with every one else on the tyre front, if you wanted a bit more piece of mind you could push the nozzle of a tube of puncture repair vulcanising rubber cement in the hole and fill it, it would stop other small bits and bobs going in there. Do it after your next ride while the tyre is still warm and it would dry over night. It would just shut the door.
« on: 17 April 2017, 09:38:48 PM »
Hang on I would not let 95% of the foccers in here look after my house when I go away on holiday either.
The gypsy that I know well (Jess) is a true traveller boy (50 years old) he settled down about 6 years ago and formed a reputable (Ish) tree surgery company, he bought a plot of land about 1.5 acres and put a double mobile home on it, he has one of the best kept gardens in the area and does so much more for his local community than anyone else.
Jess gives logs to the elderly and delivers and stacks them for the recipients.
He cuts the grass at his local village church yard and cemetery with his own Allen scythe and takes the cuttings to the local recycle centre, and all this he does on a voluntary basis and he fits the cost for the fuel.
Now you must speak as you find and Jess is a dear guy, that's for sure and he has a real heart for those who are struggling, he gives of his time and his resources.
So I am standing up for Jess, just as I would stand up for anyone else I know if I thought that they were being given a hard time for no reason, yep even some of you miserable foccers in here.
« on: 14 April 2017, 12:16:15 PM »
I read somewhere that Fazer FZS 600 Cam Chains do sometimes get a bit noisy before the adjuster clicks on to the next notch or whatever it is it locates in.
It could also be that the tappets/Valve setting spaces need re-shimming.
In the past I have had bikes with a slappy cam chains and it produced a noise heavier than that, but of course the sound could vary from bike to bike.
One bike (DOG) I had a few years back the cam chain was so loose that it rubbed/slapped its way through the chain tunnel and oil leaked through the hole it made (About 3 mm wide by about 8 mm long)
Better to have a chain slightly loose than a bugger to tight that's for sure.
If it is the cam chain I personally would not be in an immediate rush to do something about it, you might find in a few miles that it clicks over and the adjuster takes up the slack and it runs quieter again. But you need to make your own mind up on that decision.
Looking at what we can see of the bike in the video it looks well used, has it been maintained well? Is it a new bike to you? (New Member in FOC-U)
Anyway as someone else helpfully suggested introduce yourself in the introduction section of the forum and let see a few pics of your steed.
Oh yeah! Welcome to the nut house.
« on: 13 April 2017, 02:38:43 AM »
I rest my case
« on: 13 April 2017, 01:41:41 AM »
Oh Foc, that was tough luck Tommy, any idea why it let go with such a bang, blocked cat or sludge??
When Yamaha stopped making the engines for Toyota they went backwards.
Don't know what the issue was and will never know as she has gone to Birmingham and is going to have a Turbo lump in it and used as a Donnington Park track day car.
It certainly would not have been dirty oil that caused it as I changed the oil every 3.5K miles and used a good quality semi synth oil.
the filter gets/got changed each oil change, the oil that came out the back was dark in colour but certainly not dirty (It had done about 1.5K miles)
The only indication I got, thinking about it with hindsight, was a couple of times that morning I felt that the car had gone over a ridge in the road, but it only effected the rear wheels, it felt like a bump in the tarmac but when looking in the mirror the road appeared to be smooth with no tarmac repairs or anything else. Now wheather this has any bearing on what happened about 1 mile after the last tim eit did that I don't know for sure, but I have wondered since if the con-rod/big end bearing bolts came loose and ended up in catastrophic failure.
« on: 13 April 2017, 01:12:05 AM »
Just had a look on ebay re replacement engines, why not rebuild it?
Engine was passed a rebuild, the con-rod went through both sides of the alloy engine block on the back you could poke you little finger through the hole in the back and your clenched fist in the hole in the front, the chances are that the stray piston has smashed the valves and possibly knocked the cam shaft mountings out of the head.
To find a low mileage replacement lump is not an easy task, (Rocking horse poo is the term I believe) and then to have the head removed to check the top end over. Removal of the old engine and the taking the alternator starter motor, and all the other bits off, the MR2 has to have the engine taken out through the bottom cos she is a mid engine, rear wheel drive car, and tons of stuff has to be removed to allow this to happen, then the reverse process and set up the new lump made it an uneconomic task, possibly £2,500 to 3,000 complete, and to be honest it's still a second hand lump and 3K is more than the car is worth.
Thanks for the thought though Joe