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Messages - tommyardin
The picture that you posted above seems to be the same picture that you posted a few days ago, but your post leads us to believe it it a different picture taken since you used brake cleaner and kitchen roll on it, I think you have re-posted the old picture and not the one you have taken since the clean up.
I have re-attached both of your pictures to this post for side by side comparison.
There is a mark on the sump near that allen screw that looks like it could be a crack, but you say you have checked it out so maybe it is just a coincidence.
I find it hard to understand how engine oil could leak out of the bolt hole, as I believe (Seems logical) the bolt holes are bottomed holes, unless of course the inside the sump or the engine block itself has a bit of material broken away forming a passageway for the oil to pass into the bolt hole, but that seems highly unlikely.
Back to your pictures, please see the circled part in pic 'sump2.jpg' it looks like a crack in the sump, but if you have given it a thorough clean and check it can't be.
« on: Today at 08:06:05 AM »
You really have not thought this out have you C C?
You seem to me to be a very selfish person who cares very little for anyone but yourself.
You care little for the efforts of others when they try to a positive and worthwhile thing, your comments are in bad taste about a biker who is killed, that young woman was someone's daughter and probably sister, girlfriend or wife she may also have been a mother.
You don't know these people or what they are like so why make such distasteful comments.
It seems to me you are a taker in life, and are willing to give nothing to anyone not even a word of sympathy.
I to hope that you never have to rely on the emergency services, but if you do you will be so glad that they are there for you, even if your not going to support them in any way.
The idea of the forum is to make friends, ok so we are not always going to get on with everyone, but that is the general idea, but I fear that if you do need advice or help with any aspect of your bike no one is likely to help you in any way.
So the only conclusion I can come to is that you are here to be disruptive and spiteful so why not go join the train drivers union and leave the old foccers to themselves.
I have a Go-Pro that I use on the bike, I have mine set at 720 and 30 GPs, 1080p gets you very large files sizes. I tried my camera on the top of my bucket (helmet) but found at the faster speeds it tended to drag my head back, causing severe neck ache forcing head forwards all the time. The Go-Pro has a big front profile and catches the wind a lot, I tried it on the right hand side of my helmet but found that my helmet blocked some of the kerbside view and again it caught the wind and caused a lot of buffering and wind noise.
I now have a sturdy handlebar clamp and shot video through the screen of the bike, I also purchased a skeleton housing that allows better sound recording and the camera is protected from wind, rain and stone chip behind the screen. Another option is a chest harness that you wear, good for mountain biking and running as well.
Mmmmmmm one of my favourites raw chicken and cornflakes.
If people are going to be prosecuted for driving 1mph over the limit then car manufacturers need to ensure they comply with speed limits by fitting calibrated speedos, as opposed to lenient speedos, to new cars with a warranty matching the rest of the car. If I had say a new Ford and was prosecuted for driving according to the speedo then I would be looking to counter act Ford.
Yeah but on the other hand Tiger if you bought new Ford you should be foccing prosecuted.
A number of police forces are just now taking possession of new cameras that have infrared light units (3 X times infrared panels) on the back of their vans coupled with infrared cameras so they can now get you in very very low light conditions.
Also one police force has disguised one of their speed camera vans by painting it scruffy blue sticking a tow-bar on the back of it and have what looks like cement or plaster smears or marks over the back doors to make it look like an old builders van. when quizzed about this the police said that they only use the van on roads that have speed camera signs on it.
What I read somewhere is if anyone knows where the van is, Ie: where/what lay-by its parked in with the time and date get everyone you know to ring the police and report a scruffy blue van dumped in a lay-by and share the number plate with all.
I am not to be trusted with a big boys bike, so have never ridden a 1K and have to make do with the baby 600.
But welcome to the forum, there are some really helpful guys on here that I'm sure will be able to help out with advice if needed for the 1K.
I had a similar problem when I replaced my down pipes.
I had been soaking the studs in W/D for about 4 days before starting the job.
Two of the stud nuts come out bringing the studs with them, I managed to get 5 other nuts off but one sheared the stud, but as the others were all off I was able to remove the original down pipes.
The sheared stud was one of the centre (ish) studs and although it was sticking out of the head by a bout 6 or 7mm it was almost impossible to get at, I tried moles but once they were snapped into place the was no room to turn them.
I managed to get the broken stud out by using a small 5mm socket (1/4" drive) with a 1/4" to 3/8" adaptor and a short extension bar that allowed me get between the front duplex frame tubes and gently tap the 5 mm socket onto the the stud that was sticking out of the head.
I kept gently tapping the end of the extension bar and it forced the socket over the stud, actually moving the stud material to completely fill the socket then a ratchet on the end of the extension bar and just unscrewed the broken stud, I actually think that the tapping helped break any corrosion that was helping to hold the stud in place.
I never managed to get the broken stud out of the socket but it did the job.
Oh! my apology to darrsi for the re-writing the Gettysburg Address, but I thought it might be helpful.
Hi sorry to hear about your incontinent Fazer.
This is just a thought, on the very front of the engine, above the oil filter is an external oil pipe that takes a hammering from the weather and road grim and they rust into pin holes and leak, gravity comes into play and the oil will ends up over the lower front of the engine.
Check this out:
Short length of small bore metal pipe with a union on each end can be seen roughly centre of picture, you will note that mine has started to pickle a bit with rust,
« on: 18 March 2017, 11:21:31 PM »
Well I would have assumed, in fact I did assume that most of the bikes in here are pretty much standard bikes, not ones that are made up of all sorts of parts from all different years.
Years ago we use to call them old dogs
Pedantic means "like a pedant," someone who's too concerned with literal accuracy or formality. It's a negative term that implies someone is showing off book learning or trivia, especially in a tiresome way.
Personification · Pensive · Petulant · Peculiar
Pedantic = Darrsi
« on: 18 March 2017, 05:10:26 PM »
The term pedantic comes to mind Darrsi.
If it was exactly what you said Darrsi then there would have been no point in saying it.
« on: 18 March 2017, 04:12:23 PM »
Darrsi is right when he says about the oil levels being slightly different between the Boxeye and the Foxeye.
The Boxeye has 10 millilitres (10cc) less oil per leg than the Foxeye, the reason for this is that the Foxeye Damper Rods in the base of the fork leg sliders/bottoms are shorter they are 190 mm as apposed to the Boxeyes 210 mm, the slight larger Damper Rods in the Boxeye displaces the oil a little more raising the level in the forks so the Foxeye needs the extra 10 millilitres (10cc) to make up that shortfall. Bearing in mind a house-hold teaspoon is said to hold 5cc so we are talking very little indeed, in fact two teaspoons full per leg.
10 Millilitres = 10 Cubic Centimetres, 10 ml and 10 cc are the same amount.
Again bearing in mind all these parameters are set by Yamaha with the Yamaha spring in place, the Linear Ohlins springs that I fitted was very slightly lighter in gauge so the displacement of that spring was slightly less that the Dual Rate Yamaha spring, plus, I had to take into account the Emulators that I fitted, I opted initially for 465 millilitres in each leg, hoping that the slightly lighter gauge spring would compensate for the oil displaced made by the Emulators, but I upped the oil level back to the recommended Yamaha level by 475 millilitres and found the ride to be better, but still i felt in was topping out a little when under a lot of power accelerating hard out of bends. I removed with a surgical syringe and clear capillary pipe 100 millilitres of the 15 weight oil that I used from each leg and replaced it with 30 weight oil.
I took the bike out for a ride and initially did not notice any difference but after about 30 miles or so the forks stopped topping out, due to the slightly slower damping effect of the slightly heavier oil. it took about 30 miles for the two different weight oils to mix and generally upgrade to a slightly heavier oil.
So the oil in my forks are 475 mls, made up of 375 mls of 15 weight and 100ml of 30 weight, again bearing in mind my forks are no longer Damper Rod forks but Cartridge Emulators, with the emulator set at 3 full turns in from the initial Emulator spring contact.
For me this is perfect, plenty of feel with the road, no harsh crashing out as forks plunge under heavy braking or bumpy surfaces also with the oli combination no feeling of the forks topping under hard accelerating.
« on: 18 March 2017, 03:41:45 PM »
I've never had a front end problem that many here have experienced, but I had a leaking fork seal so had to change mine the other week (along with a kebab-supplied R6 shock on the back). The first thing I noticed was that the oil that came out was in excellent condition and very, very thick. Much more so than the 15w I put back in. There is no noticeable difference in the front end since the change and I wondered if for some reason fork oil thickens up as it gets old?? Mine had been in for at least 35k miles.
Hey Wookie, Did the old oil stink when you took it out.
I changed mine when i did some modding to my suspension over winter and it was Minging, smell like rotting fish. and was metallic silver grey in colour.
Thanks for that Tommy and a big thank you for your donation
My pleasure, My daughter was picked up by Air Amublance after being thrown from a horse and then was trampled by it, they suspected a broken back, bur mercifully she just damaged two of the lower vertebra in her back and was up and about in three weeks, the Ground Ambulance were so concerned about her condition and the Air was called and within 20 minutes of the Air arriving she was safely in hospital.
We never know when we or our loved ones will need this service, that's why its important to raise funds the way you guys are
Cheers tommy.....bike not been started since november last year , be out in the garage shortly , connect charger , check tyre presures , clean and lube chain and then just a mile ride too MOT MAN....tyres are a bit low but otherwise I think it will be ok...
Another year goes by.....another MOT booked....the mighty thou this time,10.45 tomorrow morning...
Good luck in the morning
My 600 went straight through on Friday 10th, hope yours does likewise
« on: 17 March 2017, 11:12:44 PM »
I really want to see Fazersharp's figures.....aka the "Racing Snake"
Me to, come on Sharpie WTF are you?