Date: 23-07-18  Time: 18:10 PM

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Messages - darrsi

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1
General / Re: I have got a stiff one
« on: 21 July 2018, 09:07:26 PM »
I doubt very much it will improve in my humble opinion, and 20 years out of a chain and sprockets ain't too bad.
Maybe you can save up and buy it a new kit for Xmas.  :lol

2
General / Re: I have got a stiff one
« on: 21 July 2018, 03:47:19 PM »
Is this the original chain?

3
General / Re: Gift Aid
« on: 21 July 2018, 11:42:49 AM »
Neither is the radar museum.


I can't find that one  :lol

4
General / Re: Gift Aid
« on: 20 July 2018, 11:12:24 PM »
Thought museums were free?

5
General / Re: Noise
« on: 18 July 2018, 06:44:48 PM »

I quickly gave all the brake pad pins a clean up after work yesterday and as i had gloves on i physically felt and examined the whole chain and there were no stiff links at all and as i said earlier it appeared to be in really good nick.


So why would it suddenly start making a noise? I expect it when they're new but i've never had one make a noise before without having a stiff link?


Wheel alignment after adjusting the chain? Perhaps combined with a particular level of wear and tear?


Seems okay, i’m a bit fussy about the wheel alignment and even had a whinge when my last tyre was fitted because it didn’t feel like it was straight enough.

6
General / Re: Noise
« on: 18 July 2018, 06:51:17 AM »
I reckon it's the chain and sprockets.
The noise goes away when you pull the clutch because you are unloading the chain.


This is now becoming favourite, although i don't get why?
I quickly gave all the brake pad pins a clean up after work yesterday and as i had gloves on i physically felt and examined the whole chain and there were no stiff links at all and as i said earlier it appeared to be in really good nick.


So why would it suddenly start making a noise? I expect it when they're new but i've never had one make a noise before without having a stiff link?


I've now just found this article as well which does describe the same thing quite accurately.


https://www.motorcycleforum.com/59-motorcycle-repair/105036-friction-noise-deceleration.html 

7
General / Re: Noise
« on: 18 July 2018, 06:42:59 AM »
I may be being naive here but you've said repeatedly that the noise goes away when you pull the clutch lever? So surely the first thing to do would be check over the clutch?
I've no clue what it could be but just seems logical no?


I have considered it maybe clutch slip, but i know what that feels like and the bike is showing no signs of that whatsoever, i can give the throttle a lot of welly without any slipping feeling at all, plus i remember that is more of a higher pitched grinding sound.

8
General / Re: Noise
« on: 17 July 2018, 06:31:45 PM »
Just had a look over the chain, it’s in really good condition, i’ve been putting engine oil on it with a paintbrush every couple of weeks so the links were moving really easily.
Exhaust is all good, nothing loose or flapping about.


Only other moving parts i can think of, other than the engine itself, are the waterpump and the speedo sensor, but again the noise goes away with the clutch pulled in so can’t be them.
Both wheels spin quite happily on the centre stand, with the pads not even touching the discs so nothing sticking at all in the pistons.


Kinda stumped now?  :look

10
General / Re: Noise
« on: 17 July 2018, 01:56:37 PM »
Does it make the noise when stationary? If so, it could be the clucth basket though that tends to only be at idle if the cars balance/idle speed is wrong.
is it speed sensitive? ie the faster your traveling the faster the clicking? If so, it could be a stiff link on the chain.


It’s speed sensitive.
It’s not the chain, because i’d feel that on the footpeg, plus the chain still moves when the clutch is pulled in, which is when the noise will stop.


There’s plenty of things i can safely rule out, but it still doesn’t leave me with anything i can think of as a culprit?

11
General / Noise
« on: 17 July 2018, 12:32:50 PM »
I've waited long enough now so it's eventually time to ask for your font of knowledge.

There's a noise coming from my bike that I can't even fathom out whereabouts it's even from yet due to added wind noise?

Best description is a whirring sound which seems to go along with the engine speed, most noticeable when I shut off the throttle and let the bike slow down with the engine. Imagine clicking a cable tie really quickly but it's constant.

Thing is, it only goes away when I pull the clutch in.

So that rules out anything to do with the wheels or wheel bearings.
It doesn't go away either if I use one or both brakes, it just slows the noise down, but as soon as the clutch is pulled in it's gone.

It sounds a bit too loud to me to be a vibration thing, although I've not completely ruled that out yet, but from what I can guess I don't think it's coming from the rear of the bike.
And pulling the clutch in doesn't stop the chain from moving so it can't be that either.

Any thoughts or ideas welcome, as firstly it's annoying the hell out of me, and secondly, something's obviously not right at all is it?

Cheers, D.


12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: do I need to replace front sprocket nut
« on: 16 July 2018, 03:06:25 PM »
Actual recommended torque setting for the newer 12mm nut is 90Nm, but a few of us thought that might be a bit risky due to the thread issues so only used 80Nm with a bit of Loctite, as well as the washer.
9mm nut was 70Nm if memory serves me correctly.

13
General / Re: England will win the 2018 football world cup
« on: 14 July 2018, 11:43:53 AM »
Who is this Gummy Gnome, Gummy Gnome, that the English fans were singing about???????


# It's coming gnome #


14
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Reluctant to start after a month in the sun
« on: 14 July 2018, 11:40:21 AM »
Take the plugs out and give them a good clean, they may have had a reaction with the Mystery Oil and the heat after being left unused.


If you get it running lob a full bottle of this in a full tank of high octane petrol and it'll give the system a good clean.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STP-Complete-Fuel-System-Injector-Cleaner-Fuel-Treatment-Additive-400ml-Petrol/221355676730?epid=19020311935&hash=item3389d3943a%3Ag%3AbC4AAOSwIMxa1Mik&_sacat=0&_nkw=stp+complete&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313




15
General / Re: Come on England 3hrs empty roads 1500hrs sat
« on: 06 July 2018, 03:43:47 PM »
30 degrees around 3pm, think i'll pass on that idea   :sun

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fuel pump noise
« on: 06 July 2018, 06:26:54 AM »
Hey Darrsi.


I am loosing my marbles! Too much sun!  :rolleyes :rolleyes
Fuel tap was not on. Can not believe that i did not check that first but to be honest don't remember have turned it off.  :lol


Thanks for you reply.


Nice easy one for a change  :thumbup

17
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fuel pump noise
« on: 05 July 2018, 09:01:40 PM »
Simple things first, check for a kinked fuel pipe coming off the underside of the tank, and make sure the fuel tap is fully turned on.

18
General / Re: Bike insurance
« on: 04 July 2018, 06:46:06 PM »
With the cost of insurance for young motorists that honestly doesn’t seem that bad at £450


I was actually gonna say the same, first time on the road at that age, and with a very nickable sporty bike, i didn’t think it was that bad.

20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Indicator relay
« on: 03 July 2018, 12:39:02 AM »
Possibly regulator

21
General / Re: Happy Birthday Unfazed!
« on: 02 July 2018, 06:07:06 PM »
Yeah, happy birthday mate.  ;)

22
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Indicator relay
« on: 02 July 2018, 06:05:34 PM »
Check all other bulbs, normally happens when one is faulty.

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Spark plug caps and ht leads (coils)
« on: 28 June 2018, 07:00:05 AM »
The spark plug cap has a self tapping screw in it.
The HT lead consists of a small bunch of wires, which over time get pushed into the outer plastic casing of the lead.
If you snip 5-10mm off the ends of each lead you can then carefully screw the cap back in until it stops and feels firm for a fresh connection.
It's quite important that the connection is good and solid otherwise it can cause running issues, especially in bad weather.


Also another option, which a lot of us have done because they are so dirt cheap, is to replace the caps for under a tenner with NGK ones, which work absolutely fine.
Last time i checked original replacements were at least 20 times more expensive.  :eek


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NGK-Spark-Plug-Cap-SD05F-Resistor-Cover-SD05-F-Black-8022/263254945790?epid=19017010992&hash=item3d4b37affe:g:3XkAAOSwT-xZ273M

24
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Strange and intermittent electrical problem
« on: 26 June 2018, 10:31:16 AM »
It might not be shorting when turning. It might be "breaking" when turning too
It hasn't happened again since I wiggled and reconnected the cables I could find, cleaning out dust etc. But the 8k+ trouble has become worse at times, especially if I go full throttle through the gears it just plutters and foccs around above 8-9k.
New filters are on it's way (air and fuel), new regulator (ebay ftw) and a carb repair kit ought to do the trick.


A milestone - I've now spent over half the initial price on upgrades and replacement parts  :lol


 :rollin that's about right, you need deep pockets to keep a 15 year old on the road.  :)  The 8k+ trouble could be a vac leak if she's running lean, have a look at the condition of the carb rubbers.

Initial price was just shy of 1600 eur, 32.000km on the clock. But I think it's been converted to 'sport' somewhere along the road, had low bars, smaller windscreen and adjusted rear-brake and gear levers, which I had to adjust after the Renthal 754(?) came on. Does anyone know the stock length of the doglegs? I'm no heavyweight and the spring is at 3/4 hard adjustment. Anyone able to make an internet opinion on if the arse is high? https://i.imgur.com/AiRFhal.jpg


It's booked for a major service, have to do forks and front bearings, it's not great while braking, vibrations etc. New pads, went GG because they adapt to the worn disks - later on those have to be replaced, after this set of pads. They'll flush the tank and service the carbs at the same time.


Landed on the DID X ring gold and black, about €125 for a kit with JT sprockets. The current ones might well be original from the sound and looks, but at least the front nut and lock has been changed. Got a new one for that too.


Since the shocks have being serviced, I'll be going for 15w instead of 10w - has anyone found this to be uncomfortable? Roads here range from good to scattered spots of asphalt with some gravel on, so while i want to get rid of the ridiculous nosedive while braking maybe mixing to 12,5 would fit better?

Go with the 15w, I found it to be a big improvement as far as handling is concerned.

25
General / Re: Mock theory tests
« on: 23 June 2018, 12:54:13 PM »
I also had this one. Its almost like a trick question. How many bikes are actually 50cc -Any? I thought they were 49cc - ergo my answer 125cc


"...if your bike is over 50cc’s you can ride this on the motorways in the UK – as long as you have passed your full test for the machine you’re riding!  You cannot take any vehicle onto the motorways with “L” plates or with just your CBT certificate..."

I think i would've said 125 as well. Thing is, you don't really associate people with a full bike licence riding a 50cc, it's just the norm that once you pass your test you get a bigger bike. I don't even think i'd really want to ride a 50cc bike on a motorway anyway.

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