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Messages - deeteefifty
1
« on: 28 December 2018, 06:37:10 am »
2
« on: 27 December 2018, 06:21:01 pm »
Been looking at astonishingly cheap new Lifan 125 engines, a few genuine parts adds up to the price of one. Yours doesn't look like a Lifan, did you fit it?
3
« on: 24 December 2018, 07:26:57 pm »
His Dudeness, I'll guess mpg similar to C70, C90 step ins. The main reason I got it is to do a couple of long distance trials next year, just for kicks, I suppose I better find out the range of a full tank.
4
« on: 23 December 2018, 07:46:03 pm »
That's why I didn't say goodbye😀. There's plenty I should've kept. For the life of me I can't understand why she thought living in the garage thus freeing up the house for bikes wouldn't work.
5
« on: 23 December 2018, 04:22:51 pm »
😀 I wasn't permitted to bin the hoover
6
« on: 23 December 2018, 08:25:42 am »
Just a note to thank you all for you fantastic help, a bit of a laugh and advice, this is one of the most active, informative sites I've discovered. I had an itch to scratch and unfortunately the Fazer had to make room for another (ahem) bike, a bigger garage would be nice. The Fazer is a fantastic bike for all round use, anybody with around £1000 to spend on a do all bike would need their head examining for not trying one. Thanks again.
7
« on: 17 December 2018, 08:41:04 am »
Thanks for info Gerkin
8
« on: 16 December 2018, 07:19:55 pm »
Toms, being an ignorant northern type, I don't have a clue or really care WTF goes on in London, it may as well be a different solar system, but what will you be able to ride into London once the further stupidity comes into effect?
9
« on: 21 November 2018, 06:40:55 am »
Was that the fix for the clicking noise you had?
10
« on: 10 November 2018, 08:01:18 am »
That's my understanding of it too. Now. 😊👍 Ta Dudeness.
My mate had tight valve clearance cause the same issue on a Kawasaki, I don't know how the cylinder managed to join in as the revs increased though.
11
« on: 09 November 2018, 10:17:10 pm »
This won't be the answer to your problem, I found a lens shaped gauze filter at the lower end of the petrol pipe where it attaches to the T piece that splits to the 4 carbs. Worth a clean if you haven't already.
12
« on: 09 November 2018, 06:57:26 pm »
Can you swap a carb to eliminate, see if it moves the fault to another cylinder?
13
« on: 21 October 2018, 05:37:55 pm »
Just referring to the original post for anyone without scales, it involves a bath of water and a Greek. But enough of that. 
14
« on: 21 October 2018, 09:15:00 am »
Oh-oh  , I better keep quiet about my procedure for weighing silencers  .
15
« on: 20 October 2018, 04:50:01 pm »
I support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.
This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.
16
« on: 20 October 2018, 08:20:41 am »
They look nice, sort of thing I'd expect to see at 12-15 overpriced quid.
17
« on: 17 October 2018, 10:59:52 pm »
Good stuff simply put. Going back to basics is worthwhile now and then. Back in the 1980s my college lecturer used to to kid us with a half truth that the power supply companies were conning all of us in a big way because all of the power they produce returns to them in the complete circuit.
18
« on: 02 October 2018, 08:55:33 pm »
 Stainless is heavier than mild steel too. You can go about with a set of scales if it helps.
19
« on: 16 September 2018, 10:22:35 pm »
You'll manage, soak carb jubilee screws in advance. Seat, tank off. Disconnect battery, remove 2 bolts from coil / fuel pump fixing bar, remove airbox rubber cover, loosen carb jubilee clamps, 3 airbox bolts and slide it back. Pull carbs back pulling the right hand side up and out. Avoid removing throttle cables from carbs, they're twats to get back on. See if the air filters OK.
20
« on: 16 September 2018, 07:30:27 pm »
Are they cracked right through, is the engine running OK?
21
« on: 16 September 2018, 08:20:36 am »
Sorry for my poor description guys, I will upload a video of the bike starting up from cold and hopefully it will show what I'm talking about, if however it is the cam chain/cam chain tensioner, if the cam chain is worn do I have to replace both the cam chain and the cam chain tensioner or just the cam chain itself?
Hope that question makes sense, I will upload a video of the bike starting up tomorrow.
Thanks for all your responses so far.
It's unlikely the tensioner is defective, it's at the rear of the cylinders under the carbs, loosen the centre nut but don't remove it yet, remove the two outer allen bolts, at this point mine needed a tap with a soft mallet to break it free from the gasket (order one in advance) the tensioner will spring out as a complete unit, now unscrew the big nut you loosened first carefully because the springs under it will still be in light tension. There's a spring loaded pawl on the end of the tensioner press it down and push the ratchet serrated shaft back to the body, this is now fully retracted, you can now place it back in the cylinder block, nip up the two allen bolts with gasket in place, then press the tensioner rod in till you feel it tension the chain, remove the Allen bolts and tensioner but don't touch the tensioner rod, once out count and note how many ratchet teeth are exposed then extend the rod to see how many teeth are remaining, if there's only a few, it's soon time for a chain. If the tensioner springs are broken or the pawl is faulty it needs repairing. Re assemble as if you were doing the measurement stage again, this time secure the Allen bolts properly, put the springs in, you'll hear the ratchet click up then put the top nut on and secure it. I did mine with carbs off so it could be twaty with them in place. It's not as hard as the essay describes, words can paint a thousand pictures 😁. There'll be a film about it somewhere.
22
« on: 15 September 2018, 10:17:38 pm »
Thanks bandit.
23
« on: 15 September 2018, 08:53:33 pm »
Hello, I stripped my forks down for a clean, re-seal and taffy up the paintwork. Just curious to know if the item fitted in the internal bore arrowed (not the split bush) on the photo is removable as I can't see any internal fastener and the stanchion end is swaged over. I wondered what needs to be done come the time the stanchions need renewal with aftermarket items.
24
« on: 15 September 2018, 06:53:23 am »
Perhaps the cam chain is worn, my bike has similar mileage and a few weeks back I had the the carbs off and took the opportunity to remove the cam chain tensioner to get an idea of chain wear, there was 3 ratchet tooth segments of adjustment left on the tensioning rod, so it's time for a new one soon. I've read on here that the chain can become a bit noisy just before the tensioner automatically clicks up another tooth to retension the chain.
25
« on: 14 September 2018, 10:09:09 pm »
Agree with both your points. Guess it's not stealthy either.
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