Post by: richiomtt on 13 October 2012, 06:59:59 pm
New to the forum but been reading for a while and impressed with the knowledge out there.
So having studies the forum for a while, I've made several mods so far - jack-up kit, braided lines, Ivans soon.... Was going to do an R6 shock upgrade but read about the BMW S1000RR conversion and one was on ebay for £80, so bought that.
All fitted OK after drilling washers etc., but what I was surprised about was that I couldn't get the appropriate sag...too saggy even with the preload wound right up. I measured 20-25mm of unladen sag with that increasing to about 45mm with me sitting on it. Not good. That's with the STD dog bones as I like it a bit higher. I took off the shorter dog bones as it was so high with the BMW shock that the rear wheel touched the ground with the centrestand down!
What's confusing me is that on this and other forums the BMW spring is supposed to be firmer than the Yamaha one, but I managed to get the STD shock to the right pre-load no bother. So that would indicate that the BMW spring is actually softer??
Took it for a spin and it felt so much better than STD, especially the damping. Any thoughts appreciated. Thinking of getting an uprated (BMW) spring from Ktech for £85 fitted.
I'm around 14stone in all my gear.
Rich
Post by: devilsyam on 13 October 2012, 07:40:38 pm
yes the shock is cheaper but not the same like for like v a r6 unit
add the extra cost on springs seems a odd choice
i looked into it and followed the posts as im all up for new idea's but diddnt see a bolt on solution
try finding a spring s/h om ebay to keep ya cost down
Post by: richiomtt on 13 October 2012, 08:01:01 pm
It is a high quality item though and already feels much better than the STD shock.
I read I can fit a CBR1000RR 04/05 spring straight on, but I can't find any of them for sale (at decent money). Might ride it for now and upgrade to a better spring later. Even with a Ktech spring, it will come in at £165 which is pretty good I think.
If it all goes wrong, I can always buy an R6 one one of yours...
Rich
Post by: Jinx46 on 13 October 2012, 10:58:10 pm
I've had no problems since fitting this shock.The bike handles great.No need to change the spring.
Fit your shock with some dogbones from a '99 gsxr 750 and see for yourself. :)
Post by: richiomtt on 14 October 2012, 08:12:48 am
Had seen your post. In fact, that's what persuaded me try it :)
There's no question that the sag* is wrong though, but I agree it feels SO much better than the original shock. I went down my fave bumpy back road and it was so compliant and smooth. A world of difference. But I think it could be better if I got the right spring to get the sag as it should be. Just me probably being over the top to get it exactly right.
*Have you measured the rear sag on your Fazer? That might help me understand more.
Cheers
Rich
Post by: t140 on 15 October 2012, 12:04:32 pm
Post by: richiomtt on 15 October 2012, 04:21:50 pm
Rich
Post by: Jinx46 on 17 October 2012, 09:16:53 pm
Have i measured the sag on my Fazer?
No. Couldn't be arsed with all that. :lol
I used a set up i found here:-ttp://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/viewall.html#ixzz1vkaD3BNK (http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/viewall.html#ixzz1vkaD3BNK)
which is for the s1000rr.
I then used this as a start point and tweaked it from there.
The ride is really good,even with some weight in the top box and panniers :)
Cheers
Tony
Post by: t140 on 18 October 2012, 10:53:33 am
Post by: richiomtt on 18 October 2012, 06:34:46 pm
The bmw is a full 25kg lighter than the Fazer though, hence settings for that bike won't necessarily work with the Fazer. I think that's why the static sag's too much as standard when the shock goes on the Fazer.
No problem though..if you're happy, you're happy.
Rich
Post by: Minty on 31 December 2012, 01:07:45 pm
Post by: richiomtt on 31 December 2012, 03:53:12 pm
Post by: allanmac on 31 December 2012, 08:09:01 pm
Cheers Allan
Post by: devilsyam on 31 December 2012, 11:50:41 pm
Quote
No, with the shorter dog bones (jack up kit) it won't fitQuote
+1 for the r6 shock then :rollin
streach wrote on usa siteQuoteIf you are over 200 lbs, you may want to try the CBR1000RR spring. It worked well for me.Quote
shock for donor spring looks like this
([url]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2007-07-HONDA-CBR1000RR-rear-shock-linkages-100733-/20/[/url]!BoElbOQ!2k~$(KGrHqMH-DUEtt,eu6k4BLmDN+80f!~~_3.JPG)
Post by: JayB on 02 January 2013, 12:44:12 pm
I am getting mine drilled by a mate at work, but what else do I need in temrs of washers to bolt this straight in, I was hoping to gather the materials and get it done this weekend.
I had a right result, £65 delivered and no need to change dog bones...! :D
Post by: richiomtt on 02 January 2013, 08:38:20 pm
I've just had a 95N/mm spring fitted on mine today (Standard BMW is 81N/mm and the Fazer is a soft 75N/mm). I've managed to get the static sag just right and although the roads were greasy it felt great. Even with the standard BMW spring it's way better than the Fazers. I weigh about 14 stone and tall.
The BMW shock is a quality piece of kit.
I found out about the 2012 being different too. Mine's 2011, hence nicely jacked-up just how I wanted it.
My mate popped out the top bush of the BMW shock and enlarged it on a lathe and it was much easier to do that he said.
Enjoy.
Rich
Post by: JayB on 03 January 2013, 09:05:22 am
Mate has taken the shock to work today, not sure if he will pop the bush out or just drill it in situ, if he succeeds and I can grab some washers, I'll hopefully chuck this in at the weekend.
Post by: richiomtt on 03 January 2013, 04:34:16 pm
Let me know what you think of it. I love mine. Got 15-17mm of static sag and about 30-35mm of rider sag. If you haven't changed the spring and you weigh more than 13stone, I'd wind the preload all the way to max (all threads showing). I had position 8 on the high speed compression (large nut at the top) and 9 on the slow speed compression (inner screwdriver at the top) and 7 on the rebound (bottom).
Let us know how you get on.
Rich
Post by: JayB on 03 January 2013, 05:46:42 pm
My mate who has it for drilling the bush works in an engineering works so hopefully he can grab me a couple anyway.
Did you glue them to the mount or the shock? I can't get my head around why they need glueing to be honest, but it might be clear when I get it apart.
I'm hoping for a decent dry day so I can take some time to clean all in and around the swingarm and back wheel while it's apart, BUT with it still being winter and the fact I will still use the bike, it might wait until spring for a proper clean, she's all covered in FS365 at the moment anyway.
Post by: Falcon 269 on 03 January 2013, 06:13:25 pm
Post by: richiomtt on 03 January 2013, 06:37:55 pm
You need to glue the washers to the shock itself. Make sure they're set before you fit the shock as impatient me went for it straight the way and it was still a slippin and a slidin.
Rich
Post by: JayB on 04 January 2013, 10:59:35 am
I figured it out as soon as I looked at it, reckoning it would be a swine otherwise.
Going to glue them up tonight and do the change tomorrow.
I don't have a tool for the preload - reckon I'd be able to wind it up by hand off the bike or wait til I can grab a C spanner?
Post by: richiomtt on 04 January 2013, 02:05:49 pm
Post by: JayB on 07 January 2013, 09:29:34 am
Bit of a pain as I only thought the top mount needed drilling out, had to take it to a bike shop to have the lower one drilled and a new bolt sorted for it as the Yammy one was about 1/4" too short to support it.
All on and done though now, just needs setting up, preload is about half way and there is a bit too much sag, but it now feels a lot better damped, so I think it will be nice once I can wind it up.
Front end is also dropped about 10mm so I will level it back out to normal once I've jacked up the preload some more.
I think it will turn out to be a top mod for the money. :D
Post by: richiomtt on 07 January 2013, 11:03:09 am
Rich
Post by: JayB on 07 January 2013, 12:21:06 pm
Very hard on the high speed damping, I set them both to 6, gonna set the spring and set it all properly at the weekend, maybe one lunchtime if I get chance.
Post by: JayB on 07 January 2013, 12:28:30 pm
Post by: richiomtt on 07 January 2013, 12:47:55 pm
Did you notice how light it was versus the original rubbish? It's a quality item and I keep thinking that's it's meant to help deal with 180BHP, so should be more than up to the job.
Rich
Post by: JayB on 07 January 2013, 03:56:26 pm
I like the fact the BMW one has the rod shrouded too, so it's protected.
Bonus, like the R6 one, having high & low speed adjustment. I probably won't bother going for the Honda spring, I've bust my bike budget for the moment now, with new tyres and this shock, plus the chain is looking tired so that is gonna need doing soon.
Post by: JayB on 08 January 2013, 11:46:47 am
Can you pop out the bolt that clamps the top spring adjuster, like a tit I left mine loose and it's fallen out somewhere outside the house!
:rolleyes
Will try and find it but would be great if you could size it up for me please fella...
Post by: richiomtt on 08 January 2013, 07:47:43 pm
Rich
Post by: JayB on 09 January 2013, 12:02:06 pm
I tried a BMW fiche for the dimensions but it's not featured.... bloody inefficient krauts :lol
Post by: JayB on 09 January 2013, 02:54:45 pm
I may change the dogbones to give it a bit more clearance and make the front-end bias a little less extreme.
Post by: richiomtt on 09 January 2013, 03:30:45 pm
I'm not sure it's going to help you if I remove the pre-load screw and measure it. I won't be able to tell you the pitch and you can work our the length dead easy from the hole. This will be a £2 part at most, so I'd risk a small selection from a bolt manufacturer. It will be standard vehicle thread anyway.
Rich
Post by: JayB on 09 January 2013, 04:11:05 pm
Hopefully once I wind it up a bit more as required, it won't deck out the tyre totally.
It is worth it, rides so much better, can't wait til the weekend to do my favourite 60 mile loop! :)
Post by: unfazed on 07 March 2014, 08:44:16 pm
I finished fitting the 2012/13 S1000rr shock today and with the settings set to BMW normal number 4 Rebound number 4 low speed compression and number 4 high speed compression. I took it for a spin, what a difference no more wallowing :) Must play around some more with the settings, but they are very good at BMW normal settings.
Measurements from Eye to Eye
Standard Fazer 100 shock is 305 mm
The 2012/13 s1000rr shock is 309mm It is easy to tell the difference between the two S1000rr shocks as the fork on the bottom of the 2013/13 shock is silver coloured and the older 2009/10 is bronze coloured like the top. See picture of visual difference in 2010/11 and 2012/13 shocks. The 2012/13 has improved damping control and slightly different standard setting to the 2011/12 shock
You will need the following for fitting:
A 12mm bit
Two 2.65mm thick washers 25mm outside diameter and 12mm diameter centre hole. I made them up as most standard are 2.5mm
A 12mm bolt with the shoulder 41.5mm long.
I used and old shoulder bolt from the top of the 600 shock, ground it to take the shoulder back to 41.5mm, re tapped it to take the standard M10 nut & washer and cut it to clear the dog bones. Original bolt was the correct length but shoulder was to short. The fork of the s1000rr Shock is 2mm wider overall. Using the original bolt was not an option.
Greased up all the linkages and put it back together.
As with previous posts the max preload was giving me 20mm static sag. I measured the thread space at the top of the shock and there is 12mm of space with the shock on max preload. I will make up a 7 to 10 mm spacer to fit under the spring to allow me add more preload and see how it goes from there. It feels fine at the moment as the laden sag is less than the sag at max preload of the original shock.
Post by: unfazed on 16 March 2014, 09:22:19 pm
Post by: bludclot on 26 March 2014, 07:59:39 pm
zero miles, £40 including postage. i couldn't resist:
(http://portchesterpropertymaintenance.co.uk/images/fazer/rrshock.jpg)
going to fit this in conjunction with a forks strip and overhaul. i'll post the results once done. i do my own mehcanical work but know very little about suspension so will be subjective. current shock is the standard fzs unit that i had re-built around 5k miles ago.
Post by: shrekster on 26 March 2014, 08:54:49 pm
Jim.
Post by: NorthWestern on 26 March 2014, 09:46:39 pm
Post by: unfazed on 26 March 2014, 11:35:46 pm
zero miles, £40 including postage. i couldn't resist:
going to fit this in conjunction with a forks strip and overhaul. i'll post the results once done. i do my own mehcanical work but know very little about suspension so will be subjective. current shock is the standard fzs unit that i had re-built around 5k miles ago.
Set it as standard first all the damping settings at 4, but wind the preload up full. :)
Post by: bludclot on 08 May 2014, 10:05:41 am
fitted this and rode the bike yesterday. ride is definitely improved.
unfazed is absolutely correct - the bottom bolt needs to be 41.5mm shouldered, i have the standard bolt in there but this means that the nut end of the shoulder is only within the shock fork by 2mm (or so) of the 6mm available. an option i did consider was taking 1mm off each of the shock fork legs - seeing as the original shock fork legs are 5mm it should be ok - but i would rather fit a longer shouldered bolt. so, can anyone supply me or point me towards such a bolt please?
i did not find it necessary to glue washers to the top of the shock for fitting. it was straight forward to slide the mounting bolt through the frame then through the first washer then through the shock then slide the second washer into the gap then tap the bolt home, easy.
my other issue is at the top of the shock however. the original shock when bolted in just at the top had no real lateral movement. the bmw shock moved all over the place however, not encouraging at all. the shoulder of the bolt was a snug fit into the drilled bushes so i figure the issue is elsewhere, most likely with the washers.
so to conclude, good upgrade but not a straight forward bolt in job as has been suggested in the past.
Post by: NorthWestern on 08 May 2014, 01:09:27 pm
Post by: unfazed on 08 May 2014, 05:40:43 pm
Odd, mine went straight in. The only thing I did was make some new bushes for the top, I didn't fancy washers so removed the original bushes and made new ones. (and put a stronger spring on). The bottom bolt went through fine, like standard.Was yours the 2010/2011?
The spring on the 2012/2013 is a heaver rated spring and should suit anybody up to about 150kg.
Combined weight of my wife and I is 140Kg and it handles great with the two of us on it.
The top of mine was sloppy loose until I torqued up the bolt/nut properly.
I would not advise touching the fork, but get a top shock bolt from a breaker and cut it down to fit. The ones from the 600 and 1000 are the same so plenty of them out there.
Collected the 10mm spacer for the spring today and will fit it over the weekend to allow me play with the static sag.
Post by: NorthWestern on 08 May 2014, 07:09:31 pm
Post by: unfazed on 08 May 2014, 07:59:47 pm
2013. The spring was stiffer than the std fazer one but not by much. I do a lot of two up riding so put a stronger one on
Any idea what the spring rate of the spring you put in is? I have an old Fireblade shock in the garage and the spring is the same size but I must check the spring rate of it as I cannot remember which year Fireblade it was taken from.
Out of curiosity any idea of the combined weight of both of you, I was out with my eldest son on the back and our combined weight was about 170Kg and the spring felt a bit soft only on really bumpy roads. If I go touring on it this year I might need to upgrade the spring if increasing the static sag does not help.
I should be able to adjust the static sag more when I fit the 10mm spacer to the bottom spring seat..
Post by: NorthWestern on 08 May 2014, 08:42:40 pm
Post by: JoeRock on 09 May 2014, 09:11:37 am
2013. The spring was stiffer than the std fazer one but not by much. I do a lot of two up riding so put a stronger one on
Any idea what the spring rate of the spring you put in is? I have an old Fireblade shock in the garage and the spring is the same size but I must check the spring rate of it as I cannot remember which year Fireblade it was taken from.
Out of curiosity any idea of the combined weight of both of you, I was out with my eldest son on the back and our combined weight was about 170Kg and the spring felt a bit soft only on really bumpy roads. If I go touring on it this year I might need to upgrade the spring if increasing the static sag does not help.
I should be able to adjust the static sag more when I fit the 10mm spacer to the bottom spring seat..
That's really not the way to do it mate - for linear springs increasing the static sag isn't going to make a blind bit of difference (it'll just make the ride height about right), it's just where the suspension sits in its stroke. Practically all it means is you'll have a lot less suspension travel to cope with any big bumps you hit, and if the spring is that soft it'll bottom out!
Post by: unfazed on 09 May 2014, 07:25:51 pm
Appreciate the comment, but I am aware that changing the static sag cannot change the spring rate, but if you read what I said "If increasing the static sag does not help." and since it never bottomed out with the combined weight of 170Kg, I was more concerned about the drop in ride height.. It felt softer than I liked which is why I will consider changing the spring. The spacer I had made was to allow me play around with the ride height since the standard shock set up will not allow me go lower than 20mm static sag and I would like to try it at 10mm.
The reason I asked the question about the Spring rate of the spring North Westerner used is that I have 2 springs which are the same dimensions as the S1000rr one, 14.7Kg 600 fazer and a 12Kg RR Fireblade. Just checked the Ktech site and they list all RR Fireblades from 2004 to 2013 at 12Kg and since it came off a RR Fireblade solves the problem not being able to remember which year it was.
The 2012/2013 S1000rr is as far as I can make out is about 9Kg and 12Kg is to big a step since it is pretty good as it is.
Unfortunately K Tech do not cover the later S1000rr or ZX10 on their site.
When I fitted the Hagon Shock to the 600 it was 14.6Kg and it felt a bit on the soft side 2 up and I changed it to a 16KG one which was perfect. Based on this, ideally I would like to try a 10.5 Kg spring first before going higher.
Post by: nsr500v4 on 13 May 2014, 08:47:34 pm
Shock |
All we need is some posts on how everyone sets their shock up with rider weights, spring preload etc etc to give everyone the benefit of the knowledge built over over the months of set ups
Post by: pitternator on 19 May 2014, 12:24:40 pm
Incidentally , just why are so many RR shock about ?...is it leftovers from racers fitting decent stuff like K tech shocks ! :lol
But if its cheap and you like it , go ahead. Personally the weakness in all this fitting of shocks from other bikes is setting yer bikes up, and hoping you have the right spring to get the sag right. You have to get the sag right before you even consider damping adjustments. I do applaud ingenuity and perseverance. But do remember if you have a knackered shock on yer bike..ANYTHING will feel marvellous. But it could still be far from ideal. Ask me how I know !
Post by: unfazed on 19 May 2014, 06:03:34 pm
The advantage of that shock is that is raises the rear 10mm without any modification to the dog bones and improves the turn in on the fazer.
Since it is made by Sachs is is also a good quality item and was much more cost effective than buying a new spring or shock. :)
Post by: NorthWestern on 20 May 2014, 04:43:25 pm
Racers don't replace their shocks with a £300 "Sport" shocks they get the big ones ~£1000 which isn't really a good comparison. For less that £100 you can have a modern design shock with hardly any miles on it and a spring suited to your weight. then you can play with the settings which some folk enjoy doing.
Post by: JoeRock on 23 May 2014, 02:09:04 am
I need the length of the shock, as close as possible, from centre to centre mounting holes
Also the weight of the spring on there as stock
and the measurements accross the mount at the top, and inside the bottom?
Basically, I'm considering fitting one to my zx9r if it'll fit and its about right!
Post by: unfazed on 23 May 2014, 08:45:37 am
I can check the rest tonight as I have one in the garage
Post by: unfazed on 24 May 2014, 01:53:39 pm
See picture it fits nicely
Joe Rock I have 2 shocks and both are slightly different top and bottom one is .15 more and the other is .15 less then the 29.5mm as the average of both measurements
Post by: JoeRock on 24 May 2014, 05:32:58 pm
Hadn't realised the info was on there already! :o
Unfortunately it's way to short for mine, Zx9 is about 337mm so something with a 20mm drop would have to be modded, which would probably make it as expensive again!
Post by: bludclot on 11 June 2014, 06:22:03 pm
i had these made up from stainless steel at my local machine shop:
(http://portchesterpropertymaintenance.co.uk/images/fazer/kit1.jpg)
here's the longer shoulder of the bottom bolt and the standard bolt against the bmw shock:
(http://portchesterpropertymaintenance.co.uk/images/fazer/kit2.jpg)
many thanks to unfazed for his measurements, spot on.
i had two sets made so one is spare. it owes me 15 so if anyone wants it..... my machine shop man said that he can make more sets if required.
Post by: Paolo_69 on 31 August 2014, 10:41:12 am
after reading about this mod, I have replaced my original shock with a S1000RR '12 with 4000 km.
The shock works very good (everything works better than the original), the only proble is that with the shock fully preloaded I have a statit sag of 27 mm (against a reccomended 10-15) and a rider sag of 55 (against a reccomended 30-40). My weight is 90 kg
This make me thinking that the spring rigidity is correct, but the spring is too short, it'd be 10-15 mm longer.
What you think? Could I resolv with a 10-15 mm spacer under the spring?
ps sorry for my bad english...
Post by: JoeRock on 01 September 2014, 07:45:59 pm
Hello there from Italy 8)
after reading about this mod, I have replaced my original shock with a S1000RR '12 with 4000 km.
The shock works very good (everything works better than the original), the only proble is that with the shock fully preloaded I have a statit sag of 27 mm (against a reccomended 10-15) and a rider sag of 55 (against a reccomended 30-40). My weight is 90 kg
This make me thinking that the spring rigidity is correct, but the spring is too short, it'd be 10-15 mm longer.
What you think? Could I resolv with a 10-15 mm spacer under the spring?
ps sorry for my bad english...
You need a stiffer spring mate, by quite some way too!
Post by: unfazed on 08 September 2014, 09:28:03 pm
Hello there from Italy 8)
after reading about this mod, I have replaced my original shock with a S1000RR '12 with 4000 km.
The shock works very good (everything works better than the original), the only proble is that with the shock fully preloaded I have a statit sag of 27 mm (against a reccomended 10-15) and a rider sag of 55 (against a reccomended 30-40). My weight is 90 kg
This make me thinking that the spring rigidity is correct, but the spring is too short, it'd be 10-15 mm longer.
What you think? Could I resolv with a 10-15 mm spacer under the spring?
ps sorry for my bad english...
Does your shock have the silver or bronze coloured shock fork. The silver one allow adjustement of the sag to 20mm the bronze one only allow adjustement of the sag to 27mm.
I did fit a 10 mm spacer to my silver forked one to allow more adjustment, but found that adjusting the sag to 15mm made it hop over bumps and set it back to 20mm. I weigh about 87Kg.
Read back through my posts
Post by: unfazed on 16 September 2014, 03:35:24 pm
Odd, mine went straight in. The only thing I did was make some new bushes for the top, I didn't fancy washers so removed the original bushes and made new ones. (and put a stronger spring on). The bottom bolt went through fine, like standard.
Do you have the dimensions and/or a picture of the one you made up? I was thinking of doing the same.
Post by: NorthWestern on 16 September 2014, 03:42:59 pm
Thats about all I remember really...
Post by: Paolo_69 on 29 October 2014, 11:22:36 am
Does your shock have the silver or bronze coloured shock fork. The silver one allow adjustement of the sag to 20mm the bronze one only allow adjustement of the sag to 27mm.
I did fit a 10 mm spacer to my silver forked one to allow more adjustment, but found that adjusting the sag to 15mm made it hop over bumps and set it back to 20mm. I weigh about 87Kg.
Read back through my posts
The shock is a 2012 with silver fork; at last I have used a spring from a R6 shock with a 10 mm spacer, and the shock works great with my weight (95 kg dressed). In this configuration I have obtained a static sag of 15 mm and a rider sag of 35, but I felt the bike too hard; actually I have reduced the preload of 6 mm, with a rider sag of 41 mm, and I feel much more confidence and comfort.
The rebound damping is set to 5, I switch the LS compression damping between 2 and 3 depending on the road; the HS compression damping is 4 as standard, I have no idea how to set this one
Post by: CatalinU on 19 June 2019, 07:34:01 pm
Post by: PieEater on 19 June 2019, 09:21:02 pm
Post by: coffee on 19 June 2019, 11:31:36 pm
Does your shock have the silver or bronze coloured shock fork. The silver one allow adjustement of the sag to 20mm the bronze one only allow adjustement of the sag to 27mm.
I did fit a 10 mm spacer to my silver forked one to allow more adjustment, but found that adjusting the sag to 15mm made it hop over bumps and set it back to 20mm. I weigh about 87Kg.
Read back through my posts
The shock is a 2012 with silver fork; at last I have used a spring from a R6 shock with a 10 mm spacer, and the shock works great with my weight (95 kg dressed). In this configuration I have obtained a static sag of 15 mm and a rider sag of 35, but I felt the bike too hard; actually I have reduced the preload of 6 mm, with a rider sag of 41 mm, and I feel much more confidence and comfort.
The rebound damping is set to 5, I switch the LS compression damping between 2 and 3 depending on the road; the HS compression damping is 4 as standard, I have no idea how to set this one
my brain's just froze :lol
Post by: Stinka on 24 July 2019, 01:59:46 pm
So wich one should I choose? The one with the silver fork or the bronze fork?
I’ve got the bronze one. It’s epic
Post by: CatalinU on 23 November 2019, 05:41:55 pm
Post by: unfazed on 23 November 2019, 09:14:33 pm
Post by: CatalinU on 24 November 2019, 04:25:12 pm
Post by: CatalinU on 28 November 2019, 04:51:10 pm
A 12mm bolt with the shoulder 41.5mm long, you can cut it to clear the dog bones and leave a few mm more than the nut..Important bit is the 41.5mm shoulder
Any tip on how to adjust the shock? I am 100kg and riding solo. Any start point will help
Post by: unfazed on 28 November 2019, 04:55:37 pm
Post by: NorthWestern on 28 November 2019, 06:15:37 pm
Post by: CatalinU on 30 November 2019, 08:00:12 pm
Is it the one with bronze bottom fork or the silver bottom fork?
Silver one, 2013 i think
Post by: CatalinU on 30 November 2019, 08:00:55 pm
Catalin, a new spring would be the first thing to get.
A spring for the BMW shock?
Post by: unfazed on 01 December 2019, 12:59:46 pm
Set all damping adjusters to 4.
I weigh 85kg and my wife about 55kg which is 40kg more than your weight and have toured with that setting.
After 20000km I changed the damping to 5 all round and never had to touched the preload in that time.
Post by: CatalinU on 01 December 2019, 05:11:13 pm
Post by: CatalinU on 13 January 2020, 08:52:26 pm
Set the rear preload 15 to 20mm, be careful not to wind the adjuster off the threads as it will damage them.
Set all damping adjusters to 4.
I weigh 85kg and my wife about 55kg which is 40kg more than your weight and have toured with that setting.
After 20000km I changed the damping to 5 all round and never had to touched the preload in that time.
I was lookin over your advices. Why didn't you use a 12 mm nut for the 12 mm bolt?
Post by: unfazed on 13 January 2020, 09:57:44 pm
Post by: CatalinU on 14 January 2020, 07:44:13 pm
Post by: unfazed on 14 January 2020, 10:10:49 pm
Post by: CatalinU on 16 January 2020, 11:19:15 am
Post by: unfazed on 16 January 2020, 12:06:23 pm
I got a fellow to make them for me out of an Aluminium bar.
There is a fellow called Derek Pierce in the Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer group on Facebook making the spacers.
Post by: oldninjaron on 03 August 2020, 06:42:13 pm
Carried out this mod using early 2009 shock but instead of drilling both mounts to 12mm, I followed another method spotted elsewhere which retains 10mm bolts using custom bearing sleeves, OD 12mm ID 10MM, fitted to fazer mount points. I fitted 110NM spring to shock, set Compression adjusters to BMW "Comfort" positions and Rebound to 7, so far. At same time fitted r6 5EB forks, resprung also. Bike handles great just harsh over sharp bumps. Came back after latest run found what feels like top mount worn, lifted rear found a lot of play, I now have correct spacers for top mount to fit but it may well be BMW shock mount may be extremely worn - if necessary how do you remove the top bushes, any help would be much appreciated.
Post by: kralik on 24 September 2020, 08:24:48 am
Set the rear preload 15 to 20mm, be careful not to wind the adjuster off the threads as it will damage them.Hi,I just fitted s1000rr shock into my FZS and was looking for how to set it up properly.So, many thanks for your advices about setting up of damping.Just a question, the rear preload is for standard bmw spring, or is it with different spring?And the rear preload 15-20mm is from the top side right?
Set all damping adjusters to 4.
I weigh 85kg and my wife about 55kg which is 40kg more than your weight and have toured with that setting.
After 20000km I changed the damping to 5 all round and never had to touched the preload in that time.
Anyway, I read some info, that the rear shocks use to have different length. For the earlier ones the lowering dog bone kit is needed and for the later ones it is not needed.How can I find out whether I need the lowering kit or whether I should stay with the standard dog bones, please?TIA