New bike/fazer owner, proper way to go about the initial service?

[kgjersda]

Hello, I just got my new (old) 2000 fazer! Loving it this far.


The bike has ridden 32000 miles. In the last 6 years it has been driven 6000 miles in total, less in the last couple of years as the previous owner got a new bike.


I don't have access to it's service history but it's last service was 26000 miles. With a recent oil change around 31000 miles.


The bike drives nicely, no oil on the forks, breaks are good and chain/sprockets are good.


At idle the bike runs a little rough.


The bike is used so it has some visual imperfections. I'll get around to that second


My plan now is to:
 - Change the spark plugs (NKG CR9E)
 - Change the oil (Castrol Power1 10w-40)
 - Change the oil filter (Snell filter)
 - Bleed the brakes and replace with DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
 - Balance the carbs (just ordered CarbTune)
 - Change the cooling fluid

I'm not brave enough to check/do the valve clearance, so I might put it in a dealer if it still runs rough after doing the above list.

Anything else I should do?

[BBROWN1664]

Pump up the tyres and check the bulbs?

Check/adjust the TPS along with the carb balance to get rid of the rough idle.
Unless the coolant is discoloured, I would be tempted to not change it.

[darrsi]

I would recommend, whenever you need to, to upgrade the fork oil to 15w oil instead of the suggested 10w, which will noticeably improve the handling.

[kgjersda]

Pump up the tyres and check the bulbs?

All new tires on it, but I will be sure to check the pressure. Bulbs are working

Check/adjust the TPS along with the carb balance to get rid of the rough idle.

Will do.

Unless the coolant is discoloured, I would be tempted to not change it.

Service manual states that it should be changed every 2 years? I cannot be sure it has been changed in the last 6.

I would recommend, whenever you need to, to upgrade the fork oil to 15w oil instead of the suggested 10w, which will noticeably improve the handling.

Noted.

[His Dudeness]

The rear caliper will need a clean. They are notorious for getting clogged up with brake dust and clogging up the dust seals and then the caliper will start to sieze. Check the front sprocket nut. They undo and can cause problems. You could give the exhaust a paint as they rust. I wouldn't take it off though as the studs can shear easily. Valve clearance check is not too bad. If you're reasonably handy with tools it shouldn't be a problem.

[kgjersda]

Thanks for the replies.

The rear caliper will need a clean. They are notorious for getting clogged up with brake dust and clogging up the dust seals and then the caliper will start to sieze.

The rear brake is a little "slow". Should clean it as you say.

Check the front sprocket nut. They undo and can cause problems.

Noted.

Valve clearance check is not too bad. If you're reasonably handy with tools it shouldn't be a problem.

From my understand I just need to take the cover off (including the tank and anything else in the way) and use gauge blades to check the clearance? And if they are out of specc then I need to shim, and that's a bigger job?

[His Dudeness]

Yea that's pretty much it. Get that top cover off, I took the thermostat out to make that easier but I don't think you have to, get the side cover off the engine so you can rotate the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, you'll know you're on the compression stroke because the cam lobes will be pointing away from each other and then slide in the gauges, then rotate the engine again and do the same again for the other cylinders. There's a good step by step guide in the workshop manual in the download section. Page 3-5 and 3-6. You'd only be measuring the clearance so you wouldn't be taking the cams out so you don't need to worry about timing the engine or lining up the cams, you're just taking the covers off and rotating the engine and then putting the covers back on

[kgjersda]

Alright, thanks for the information. Seems easy enough to do. I've worked a fair share on car engines, but never on the smaller MC engines.

[kgjersda]

So I just changed the brake fluid to DOT 5.1. You can clearly see the old fluid in the container and the new fluid in the hose It was about time, the rear was cloudy and had red spots!

Also I noticed that the silencer is scratching against the frame. I managed to tip over the bike a couple of days ago and that probably changed the position of it a little bit. Used some force and bent it back out.
Am I correct that the only points the silencer are held is to the passenger fix point and the exhaust flange?

[kgjersda]

I'm still having problems with the muffler. I tried to bend it out from the frame but there is too much leeway in the bracket mount so it keeps going back and rubbing the swingarm.

I think the exhaust is original, but it is painted black and there is a piece of rubber in between the muffler/metal holding it. Probably put there to conserve the paint.

It is extremely hard to fit it if I take it off. How is it with you guys?

[His Dudeness]

It should line up pretty easily. Your end can has taken a bit of a beating from the swing arm so that could be the problem. If you take the bolts holding the can out and rotate the can away from the swing arm and then see where the bracket for the can is lining up. You could try taking out the bolt under the foot peg and see if that makes it easier to line up.

[kgjersda]

Indeed His Dudeness. The can looks very beaten up. I'm beginning to think this has been a couple of owners' first bike 

Ended up taking the whole rear foot peg thing off and pressed the rubber as much outwards as I could without breaking it.
I also put on a 1mm washer on the rear foot rest against the frame.
I then twisted the can as much as I could before tightening it at the rear, and then locked it in place where the exhausts meets. It's got at least 1cm of clearance now.

Unless something is loose it should stay put.

It was way easier to tighten it at the rear first, then at the midsection. Last time I tightened it at the midsection first to "lock it in place", that gave me one hell of a problem fitting it at the rear. I think the end result is much better now.

[His Dudeness]

With only 1cm clearance you might still have some issues with the swing arm hitting the can. I'd say it should be more like 1 inch rather than 1cm. A replacement can might be what you need

[kgjersda]

Honest newbie question: Does the swing arm move sideways?

Edit: or is it more the concern that the "body" is moving on the shock absorber "sideways"? :|

[His Dudeness]

The swing arm should only move up and down no sideways movement. If you've got sideways movement you might have a problem with the swing arm bearings or the suspension or wheel bearings. I thought from your picture that maybe someone had bent the exhaust in and that's why it was hitting the swing arm but I guess it could be the swing arm moving. Does it feel solid when you're leaned over cornering or does it move around a bit? I saw a guy one day proudly showing off his new bike to a mechanic and the mechanic lifted it up off the side stand to have a look and he noticed a bit of sideways movement in the swing arm or so he thought. It turned out the last guy hadn't tightened the rear axle nut. It was only hand tight

[kgjersda]

Right! The swing arm moves as it should then, no sideway movement As long as there's not a lot of pressure on the right passenger foot peg which might cause it to be pressed inward, everything should be fine.
Will have to double-check with a passenger + load.

Crazy story :S

[BBROWN1664]

the standard end can is permanently connected to the link pipe. To move the can out a little, try loosening the clamp that holds it to the down pipes.
If the end can and link pipe are separate pieces, it is not a standard can so you can loosen both ends of the link pipe to make adjustment easier.
IIRC, the standard can has the retaining strap welded to the can (i.e. no rubber part) so as yours has a rubber part, it looks like an aftermarket can.

[kgjersda]

I've looked alot of pictures now of the original can and compared it mine. I am very certain that the can is original but repainted, it has the YAMAHA 5DM-markings, as do the strap.

The major difference is that because of the rubber I have to fit the strap on both sides of the mounting bracket on the passanger foot peg. It will never fit if I try to force it together. I see on the pictures of the original that the strap is flush with itself.


Is there a way to tighten the gear changes on the bike? I drove my brothers Thuncerace (not the thundercat), and though I know it's a totally different bike, it was just so much smoother between the gears. Is there a way to make the gears more "precice" when changing?

[darrsi]

I'm wondering if you've lost the oil out of the rear shock and you're riding the spring?
That's what happened to mine.

[BBROWN1664]

putting the strap on the inside of the foot peg mounting will move the can inwards adding to your problem.

the fazer is known for its slightly clunky gear change but this can be almost eliminated by making sure the chain is adjusted properly. 30mm or so of travel at the mid point of the chain under the swing arm when sitting on both wheels will see the clunkiness all but disappear.
If the issue you are referring to is slack in the gear lever, it could well be the lever/shaft it sits on is worn.

[kgjersda]

So I checked and adjusted the chain yesterday. I had to use some rust remover to get it open. In this process I got some of it on the tire along with some other lubricants.
I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to slippery tires, what is the best way to clean a rear wheel tire? I've seen some specialized expensive cleaners in the shop, but what's the cheap method?

[BBROWN1664]

petrol or paraffin on a rag

[kgjersda]

petrol or paraffin on a rag

Thanks for answering my simple newbie questions.

[His Dudeness]

paraffin and petrol are oil based. brake cleaner would probably be better

[Jules-C]

Lots of hot soapy water and then good rinse