Date: 28-03-24  Time: 13:55 pm

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Messages - Dcock

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1
For Sale & Wanted / fzs600 givi monorack and plate for sale
« on: 30 July 2014, 10:52:03 pm »
givi monorack and monokey plate off my 1998 fzs600 for sale on ebay. will fit other boxeyes. not sure about fox eyes.

2
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fazer oil change
« on: 08 June 2014, 03:03:48 pm »
im currently running some 10w40 semi-syth specific for a massey ferguson tractor in my bike. (brother is a farmer and had some left over form servicing his tractor). Have had absolutely no problems at all. (so tbh i would just go for any 10w40 semi-syth, its not like your running a superbike so dont go wasting your money) I used to put in rock-oil from my local shop, that was pretty cheap as well.

3
FZS600 Fazer / Fzs600 1998 value
« on: 08 June 2014, 01:59:24 pm »
hi just wanted some opinions on what you guys think is a fair price for my bike.. i'm thinking of selling soon to upgrade.


1998 fzs600
category C
34k
12 month MOT
6 months tax
good tyres and sprockets/chain
cam chain replaced
recent fork oil and seal replacement
new front pads
jack-up kit
micron end can
runs well, no bad noises


bad bits
front fairing damage, large crack to one side, has been previously repaired before with fibreglass (can be seen from inside)
tatty paint on engine
dent and scuff to link pipe/exhaust
few chips to tank


i was thinking around £750

would upload pics but only after a basic estimate. cheers

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing selector forks and drum
« on: 15 May 2014, 05:15:06 pm »
I remember adjust the pushrod system a while ago when I first noticed the gear change trouble. Just to clarify is it the mechanism behind the rubber plug on/by the front sprocket cover? Although I dot remember regreasing it.

5
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing selector forks and drum
« on: 14 May 2014, 01:51:08 pm »
Thats an amazing reply. Thanks a lot for that Deefer. Would you suggest not doing this until it starts jumping out of second gear? Or are you thinking this problem may not be related to the selector forks?

6
FZS600 Fazer / Replacing selector forks and drum
« on: 13 May 2014, 08:14:42 pm »
Hi, i have a 1998 fzs600 and since i have had the bike it has been very clunky/sometimes grinds/crunches when going from 1st to second and from second to third. Also there is significant whining noise while in second gear. Does this sound likely to be a bent selector fork or worn drum? If so i heard that these can be replaced with the engine still in the frame with the sump removed and clutch out. I replaced the cam chain on this bike and fork oil/seals etc so feel confident i could do this job. Any ideas on what it could be or info about replacing the selector forks would be appreciated.


Cheers, Dan

7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Side stand causing engine to cut out in neutral
« on: 29 March 2014, 09:12:52 pm »
i've been doing a bit of research and think it may be the main relay. Anyone selling one that fits a 1998 fzs 600?

8
FZS600 Fazer / Side stand causing engine to cut out in neutral
« on: 29 March 2014, 04:34:15 pm »
Hi, so recently my fazer got stolen and they hot wired it. Luckily i got it back and managed to repair most of the things wrong with it, including reconnecting all the wires to the ignition. Although i am left with one minor problem. If i have the bike in neutral (neutral light on) when i flip down the side stand it cuts the engine out. If i hit the starter switch it will turn over but not fire up. I read somewhere about a relay under the left hand side black panel maybe causing this problem. Any ideas? Also what size are the holes in the front disc, looking at getting a disc lock.


Thanks, Dan.

9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 1999 Fazer 600 swap for CBF125?
« on: 13 October 2013, 05:31:13 pm »
yeah i would say the mileage is too high. Plus as others have said you could sell your 125 for much more than that and then get a decent fox eye fazer allowing you to see at night... always a bonus.


10
For Sale & Wanted / Re: FOR SALE .Nice clean low mileage gen 1
« on: 02 September 2013, 11:00:42 am »
how much tax and mot?

11
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15W Fork Oil. Does it make that much difference?
« on: 28 August 2013, 05:14:11 pm »
right i think i'll have a go at changing the oil when i get some spare time then. Thanks.

12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Flat Spot
« on: 28 August 2013, 05:12:56 pm »
UPDATE: Today i decided to check the air filter, pretty clean. so i moved onto the carb to head rubbers. I took each one off had a look and even though they are cracked real bad on the outside, it has not penetrated all the way through. Back on they went. I then took the carbs off and holy shite the float bowls were full of rust. So i cleaned all the float bowls and all the jets (we have a blanker mid jet that fooled me into thinking it was blocked for a while) and then had a look at the diaphragms and lubed up the slides. I also decided to reset all the air/fuel mixtures screws as the idle was bad beforehand. That was a mistake as one of the screws just snapped off. So i had to cut a slit in it to be able to turn it... anyway that sorted i put it all back together with a new fuel filter and now it runs perfect again. So i'm guessing it was blocked up carbs or something carb related. Just a side note, two days beforehand i put in a small amount of carb/injector cleaner in with my fuel. I wonder whether this had a part to play?

Cheers for the help.

13
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Flat Spot
« on: 27 August 2013, 11:14:07 pm »
cheers for the replies. I had a look at reds thread (Not quite all 40 odd pages though) How do i check the regulator? Also could spark plugs cause this?

14
FZS600 Fazer / Flat Spot
« on: 27 August 2013, 10:53:17 pm »
Right so after blasting it half way back from poole bike night tonight my 1998 fzs600 developed a problem. As i was trying to blast it past my mates fz1 my bike lost power and now will not rev past 7k unless i hold the throttle back for a good 5 seconds and then finally revs past it but with very little power. It feels liek a very bad flat spot. Also it seems to happen lower down the rev range if i'm in the lower gears. I feels as if it looses power at the point when the engine used to start pulling hard. I'm wondering whether it's running lean as i had the fan come on for the first time today also the carb rubbers are cracked, but i sprayed wd40 on them and the idle did not change.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Dan.

15
FZS600 Fazer / 15W Fork Oil. Does it make that much difference?
« on: 26 August 2013, 06:55:04 pm »
So i hate how spongey the forks are, will changing from 10w oil to 15w oil make a reasonable amount of difference? Or do i really need new springs?

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: riveting a cam chain
« on: 17 August 2013, 05:05:04 pm »
I just done mine last week and had a few issues with it, but I got there in the end thanks to some help from folks on here.

This may not be the most efficient or right way to do this, but it worked just fine for me.

Once I had the chain new in and ready to install the rivet link, I held the chain held in place with a clamp (rubber tooth type) as it draped over the edge of the engine.

Then using my hands (note this is a fiddly process and needs the dexterity of a gynacologist) I took both ends of the chain and folded back the open links on each side of the chain to get them out of the way, except the last links, the bottom ones in this case.

I pushed the rivet link through the bottom links but only pushed the rivets through until flush. Then I installed the first link plate and again pushed the link rivets through until flush. Then I pivoted round and into place the next open link on each side of the chain and pushed the rivets through until flush. Repeated this process for the next link until I was ready to put the top link plate in place.

Placed the top link into place and gently squeezed into place with a pliers over each rivet. This will allow the plate to be pressed on but only as far as the rivets come flush to the new plate. In order to get them through far enough to protrude and allow them to be peened over, I placed a small nut on the top plate over the rivet and squeezed with a pliers.

Did this with each rivet one at at time and press down in small increments to allow the plate to go on evenly and not to tight, I kept checking the width as I progressed as compared to existing link on the chain. Take care with the last pinch as you don't want to go to far and get a tight link as I did the first time.

Once I was happy with it, I got ready to peen the rivets. I checked the diameter of the rivet with the vernier, I then held a small lump hammer in one hand (and resting on my knee!) then using a small ball ended hammer and peened over the ends of each rivet.

A couple of small taps at a time works well, don't go too heavy handed, it's easy to over do it. Checked with the vernier again and once happy it was the same as the other rivets on the chain it was job done.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Very helpful reply, thankyou!

17
FZS600 Fazer / riveting a cam chain
« on: 14 August 2013, 10:28:30 pm »
so i have my new cam chain, and i also have my rivet link. I'm going to replace my old cam chain on tuesday/wednesday. I've been looking at the rivet link and the chain and working out the best way to rivet it. I'm after a bit of advice from someone that has done it already about how best to press the side plate on and also how do i hold the internal two plates while sliding the rivet link through the holes without dropping everything  into the crank casings... stuff it with rag?

Cheers, Dan

18
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Camchain replacement
« on: 01 August 2013, 06:03:58 pm »
The quad stake anvil there looks too big for doing a cam chain, do they do a smaller one. Also noticed this was called the jumbo chain tool, so does it have driving pins small enough to split a cam chain
 
The tool I borrow to split mine was like this   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cam-Drive-Chain-Splitter-Breaker-Link-Riveter-Motorcycle-NEW-/181116192118?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2b5dc576#ht_3084wt_892
 
but it's no good for riveting as I have said before


what problem did you have using that tool to rivet the cam chain? I was also going to use that to do my cam chain.

19
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Camchain replacement
« on: 31 July 2013, 06:03:36 pm »
I've had no luck at all trying to find an open chain with a rivet link anywhere including all the reccomendations on here  :'(
Actually found a DID one in my shed (was a spare for the blackbird) and I checked out the specs, same length @ 130 links, same pitch@ 6.35 but inner width was different - so feck that anyway!
Any ideas where else I can try? I tried fleabay, Wemoto, AJ Sutton etc. but to no avail.
Cheers, Gar



here's an open chain with rivet link, bit more expensive.

http://yamahascooterspares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=741.21.25&model=YAMAHA%20FZS%20600%20FAZER%2000-03&uid=0

20
If you take the centre bolt out of the tensioner first it will stay in the same place. If you leave the centre bolt in the spring will push the tensioner all the way out. I'd check the valve clearances next if I was you but if the tensioner is at the max then the chain is worn.

yeah i took the centre bolt out first and when it was out it was at the end.

21
I believe the valve clearances would make it difficult to start rather than make that noise.
My last fzs600 was at 120,000 miles and never had the valve clearances done!
With the cam chain tensioner being on a pressure ratchet it will automatically extend when you take it out so cannot be relied upon as an indication of how far extended it is in the engine.
When replacing the tensioner did you remove the valve cover and check that the cam chain was tensioned and all the timing marks were in alignment?

i didn't check the tension of the chain or the timing marks after resetting the tensioner. A;so the bike starts on the button with no choke.

22
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Camchain replacement
« on: 30 July 2013, 07:15:21 pm »
I bought mine from Wemoto  http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/ and have found them very helful and goood to deal with.
Scroll down to the engine section, Chain is supplied complete and you need to order the soft link seperately.


is the one on wemoto now an open chain? or did u buy the endless and split it?

EDIT: just saw it was endless. How dodgey is it to buy an endless cam chain and split it and then use a rivet link instead of paying £15 more for an open chain?

23
FZS600 Fazer / cam chain rattle/ valve clearances / buggered engine
« on: 30 July 2013, 06:29:09 pm »
Whats wrong with my 1998 Fzs600 with 30k on the clock?
I took the cam chain tensioner off the other night and it was fully extended, i don't believe it has had its valve clearances checked either. The tick usually goes away after 15 mins of riding although has got worse recently.

Please check out the youtube video below and vote. Also reply if you have more info for me. Cheers.


1998 Yamaha fzs600 Cam chain, timing chain tick/rattle


24
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Camchain replacement
« on: 30 July 2013, 05:56:18 pm »
QUOTE:
I had a split chain fitted a few years back and vaguely remember the bill being around the £200 mark which would suggest about 4hrs labour at the time.


I need to get mine done ASAP, any idea where I can purchase a split chain on online? I have been looking for the last hour or so and can't find one. I would like a DID or equivalent if possible. QUOTE


http://www.yamahascooterspares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=741.21.25&uid=0

i just ordered that one. Not sure how long it will take to get here though, it says normally dispatched within 3 days on the site.

25
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Camchain replacement
« on: 29 July 2013, 10:35:04 pm »
What mileage is on you bike?
A complete cam chain means a major engine strip down as you need to lift out the crank to get the chain on and you cannot just seperate the crankcases as two of the crankcase bolts are under the barrel  :( . A split chain  from an engine point of view is just the carburettors, alternator cover and cam cover and cam chain tensioner off first and then the plugs and cams out. Split the chain and attached the new chain to the split link. With your third hand, turn the engine over holding the chain tightly and feeding it through. Install the cams, join the chain, check the cam timing, install the tensioner, check cam timing again. Replace the cam covers, alternator cover and carburettors.
Max time about 6 hours for a split chain  :eek  (a very good mechanic could probably do it in 4  :) )

Hi when you say attach the new chain to the split link how best would i do that?

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