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Messages - His Dudeness
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101
« on: 11 July 2019, 07:32:33 pm »
It most likely will sort it. When you put the new switches on you'll have to open up the old ones and show us the problem!
102
« on: 11 July 2019, 06:42:16 pm »
Just glad it looks like you've sorted it mate.
I also love reading the wisdom that gets written by those in the know on this forum.
It's good to know we are in safe hands 
That's why I read the workshop forum. It helps the guy sort his problem and if he reports back when he finds the solution everyone learns from it.
103
« on: 11 July 2019, 06:37:22 pm »
104
« on: 11 July 2019, 12:52:27 am »
Yes you can just undo the banjo but you will need to remove the brake reservoir cap first to relieve the vacuum, don't get any fluid on paintwork if you do wash off with water immediately. While the caliper is off carefully loosen off the two bleed nipples & lightly re-tighten ready for bleeding the caliper later.
There's a vent hole in the reservoir to allow atmospheric pressure in so a vacuum can't form. If the reservoir was fully sealed and there was no vent hole a vacuum would form and it could stop fluid flowing through the system
105
« on: 11 July 2019, 12:09:14 am »
A problem on the blue wire doesn't explain the horn and brake light not working or maybe I read your first post wrong. Do they already work?
106
« on: 09 July 2019, 08:06:30 pm »
Just as a precaution before you jump the red to brown/blue take out the ignition fuse so that power doesn't go to the ignitor. That way all you're powering when you jump it is the lights, horn etc.
107
« on: 09 July 2019, 07:57:31 pm »
Thanks for that, I will give that a go at work tomorrow. Whats the worst that can happen! 
You could short something and blow it up or start an electrical fire and burn the bike and your work down 
108
« on: 09 July 2019, 07:48:29 pm »
Do you ride with your foot covering the rear brake pedal? You could be applying the breaks without meaning too.
How many miles have you done since the garage fixed it?
109
« on: 09 July 2019, 07:21:09 pm »
A bit risky. You could blow something up if you do it wrong so do it at your own risk but you could bypass the ignition and if the lights work when the ignition is bypassed you know the problem is in the ignition. There's two connectors going to the ignition, a two pin connector and a six pin connector. If you follow the wire off the back of the ignition you will find the two connectors. They're in the junction box under the tank. You'll have to take the front bolt out of the tank and tilt it up out of the way.
The two pin connector will have a red wire and a brown/blue wire.
The six pin will have a black, blue/red, brown/red, blue/yellow, blue
Disconnect both connectors.
On the loom side of the two pin connector join red to brown/blue.
The headlight, brake light, horn should now work. If they do work you know the fault must be in the ignition. If they still don't work the fault is after the ignition.
110
« on: 08 July 2019, 07:57:57 pm »
Having looked at the wiring diagram from the downloads section (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=45), the relays only deal with the high/low beam element.
Given all the faults you have, I would look at the one common thing, the ignition switch cables/connectors.
I don't think it can be at the ignition because if it was at the ignition he'd be loosing power to the starter relay and having intermittent starting problems but he doesn't have that so the connection at the ignition must be good because the bike is starting everytime. Ok, well the signalling fuse was fine but I changed it anyway, still no change. As the tail lights light up ok when the ignition is switched to park lights I did not think it would be the problem... although even with that fuse out the park lights work. If the only thing they need to work is the fuse and ignition being on it should be simple, but then the brake light is not working either.
I am thinking its got to be one thing that is causing all these issues. as my bike is a daily rider, its not like its stuff that could have built up over time. It had its MOT a couple of weeks ago so the horn and rear lights would have definitely been working then. I am still thinking that it is relay related although I do not get how it could be effecting the rear lights or the horn unless there is some sort of rerturn feed via one of the relays.
I have spoken to an electrics guy at work and he does not think the relays are at fault as they only control the headlights. With the list of things not working he thinks it is more likely there is a major wire in the loom somewhere that supplies all the things that are not working which is not connecting as it should.
This is fun 
The park circuit and the ON circuit are completely different so the tail light coming on when the key is in park doesn't rule out a problem on that signaling fuse circuit. When the key is in park power goes from the battery to the ignition then straight to the tail light. Whereas when the key is in the ON position power goes from the battery to the ignition, then from the ignition it goes to the fuses including the signaling fuse, then from the signaling fuse it goes to the switch on the handlebar, then from the switch it goes back to the ignition, then from the ignition it goes to the tail light. So the park and ON circuit are totally different. You've proved the signaling fuse connection is good but I don't think you've proved that there's power at the fuse. Have you got a multimeter or a test light and we can check for power at the fuse and then at each point along the circuit after the fuse?
111
« on: 07 July 2019, 11:41:11 pm »
The brake light comes from the signaling fuse. The rear light comes straight from the ignition switch so once the ignition is on the rear light should be on.
112
« on: 07 July 2019, 11:34:41 pm »
Would a bit of dielectric grease in the spark plug caps and around the spark plugs help prevent arcing to the head from rain water?
113
« on: 07 July 2019, 11:26:12 pm »
I think the power for pass comes from the headlight fuse not the signaling fuse
114
« on: 07 July 2019, 10:59:38 pm »
Relays can be temperamental when old - especially in high temperatures as it was Friday (coils are tired and heat up with use causing the relay not to be effective). I'd be looking at replacing the 4 pin relay due to age. Just my 2p
A dodgy relay wouldn't explain the horn not working
115
« on: 07 July 2019, 10:17:53 pm »
116
« on: 07 July 2019, 10:14:31 pm »
There are two lots of power to the relays though, the power being switched and the power to operate the relay. You have the power being switched, as proved by looping it at the relay connector and making the headlights work. But what His Dudeness is saying is that the signal circuit, which operates the relay, may be at fault.
Yep and the horn gets it's power on that circuit too so the fact that the horn was dodgy might suggest the fuse connection is dodgy, a long shot but worth checking. The indicators are on a different circuit. They get power through "turn signal fuse". Have a look at the wiring diagram in that link.
117
« on: 07 July 2019, 08:24:14 pm »
That signaling system fuse gives power to the horn, the brake lights and the light switch which give power to the control side of the four pin relay so it's worth checking. I'd check that the fuse is nice and tight and has good clean contact. It's an easy thing to check and rule out anyway or just go straight for unfazed suggestion since he's right 99% of the time The wiring diagram is at the end of that manual http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5
118
« on: 07 July 2019, 06:39:03 pm »
could it be something to do with the signalling system fuse? maybe a bad connection. he mentioned his horn wasn't working
119
« on: 06 July 2019, 11:23:39 pm »
Never had gearbox trouble so this is a wild guess but I think it's usually the selector fork or the dogs that break on second gear. I think you can sneak in from the bottom through the sump and change whatever is broken with the engine still in the frame
120
« on: 06 July 2019, 12:59:55 pm »
When you say longer trips are you talking 500 miles or 5000 miles? The main thing is a puncture repair kit. Other than that I've found you need a 10mm spanner, 5mm allen, flathead and philips(JIS) screwdrivers, that's about all I've ever needed. If you're going 5000 miles add spanners for adjusting the chain.
121
« on: 01 July 2019, 08:03:19 pm »
Nope, definitely not coming out of the drain, but from the seals. I lifted the dust seal (which is covered in oil), there's oil laying on top of the fork seal and I can see it dribbling down the fork leg, caliper and disc. Yes, I know I'll need new pads as well as a lot of degreaser to clean the disc off too. The only thing I can think of is the fork leg is pitted at the very bottom where the seal will be when there is no weight on the bike so the fork leg is fully extended but when being ridden the seal is higher up the leg and seals at that point. I'm thinking that if I can see any damage on the leg when I get it apart to fit the new seals, I fit the seals with a spacer under them so they bear on a different area of the leg.
The fork's not fully extended when the bike is parked. The weight of the bike is still being transferred through the suspension compressing the fork. If you did a wheelie and took the weight of the bike off the fork it would extend out further than it is now. If you dry off the around under the dust seal so there's no oil and then pull the front brake and compress the fork a load of times simulating riding along a road you will probably see some oil weeping past the seal. Don't put a spacer under the seal.
122
« on: 01 July 2019, 07:53:15 pm »
Looking at the wiring diagram in that manual for a 2002 bike http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5I think both tail lights should be on when the key is in park so if only one is on the filament in one of your tail light bulbs must be blown.
123
« on: 01 July 2019, 07:40:44 pm »
I think you have a short between the three wires going to the tank. Disconnect the connector going to the tank. Does the fuel light go out and the gauge drop to E when the connector is disconnected? If it does it means the short is between the connector and the tank. If the fuel light stays on and the gauge stays past full the short is on the loom side of the connector.
How the fuel gauge works is there's a float in the tank. The float is connected to a variable resistor. When the fuel level is high the float is at it's highest position and the variable resistor is at it's lowest value of resistance so more current flows through gauge so the needle moves towards the full mark on the gauge. If you bypassed the variable resistor completely with a short to ground the gauge would read even higher than full like yours is doing.
The fuel light is a bulb in series with a thermistor. How that works is when the fuel is covering the thermistor the heat that the thermistor generates is transferred into the fuel. That keeps the thermistor cool which causes the thermistor to have high resistance so most of the voltage is dropped across the thermistor and not much across the bulb. As the fuel level drops below the thermistor, the thermistor heats up because now the fuel isn't cooling it. As it heats up it's resistance drops so now less voltage is dropped across the thermistor so more is dropped across the bulb and eventually it gets to a point where the bulb has enough voltage drop across it to light. If you had a short to ground and bypassed the thermistor the bulb would be on all the time no matter what the level of the fuel is, like yours is.
So I think the three wires are joined together causing a short.
124
« on: 01 July 2019, 12:24:31 am »
I don't know how people can sleep at night knowing they fitted an ebay brake lever on their 130mph bike It's like lining up to do a skydive with an ebay parachute on your back No thanks
125
« on: 25 June 2019, 07:30:40 pm »
All you're getting from them for the £2000 is a new stator and rotor fitted. And even after that's done the engine could still be ruined from metal contamination so your £2000 would be a waste of money. It might make more sense and be cheaper to fit a used engine. You might even get a guarantee on the used engine.
Or you could take the sump off check for metal contamination. If it doesn't look too bad get a used stator and rotor off ebay or from a breaker and fit them yourself. It looks like a very easy job. No pullers or special tools required. Have a look on Youtube. Flush cheap oil through the engine a few times to get any metal out and if you're lucky the engine will be ok. It would cost the price of the used stator and rotor, a sump gasket and a few bottles of oil
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