Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
General => General => Topic started by: darrsi on 28 October 2017, 06:16:34 pm
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Due to finding a screw in my tyre yesterday i'm gonna be looking for a new rear sooner rather than later, i've plugged it for the time being as it was in the fleshy part of the rubber.
I've decided to give the Michelin Pilot a go this time.
Question is which one, the PR3 or the PR4 ?
Bike's a commuter mainly, so i don't chuck it around so much these days, although i do have my moments, but i do like the tyres to stay planted firmly in the wet, and obviously longevity would be a bonus as well as wearing evenly.
There's not much price difference so i'm not bothered about that.
But has anyone tried both, and maybe preferred one over the other? Any thoughts?
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I've just read elsewhere that PR4's may not be brilliant in very cold weather? Can anyone verify this at all, as i ride all year round in the majority of weathers, just not snow?
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I have a PR3 on the front and PR4 on the rear, they don't do PR4 in our front tyre size. Logically PR4 should be better than the PR3 as it supersedes it.
I switched from BT23 to these tyres and i have to say it was a revelation. So much more confidence in the rear tyre. I doubt theres much between them but the newer tyre surely wins.
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I have a PR3 on the front and PR4 on the rear, they don't do PR4 in our front tyre size. Logically PR4 should be better than the PR3 as it supersedes it.
I switched from BT23 to these tyres and i have to say it was a revelation. So much more confidence in the rear tyre. I doubt theres much between them but the newer tyre surely wins.
I've read a few times now that the PR4 has slighter harder compounds than the PR3 possibly as it was aimed more for bigger/heavier bikes, which may explain the lack of sizing?
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Oooooooooooooooohhh a tyre thread :wall
PR3 all the way
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Oooooooooooooooohhh a tyre thread :wall
PR3 all the way
I know, but at least i narrowed it down to two :lol
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Pr3 for me too. I find the side wall of the pr4 a little bit stiff.
Just for the record my summer Tue of choice is the pilot power 3.
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Metzeler
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Metzeler
Which one ???? I've had the Z6 on a 600 Fazer and couldn't fault them in the dry. When you looked at the rear tyre tread it made you think about grip, braking etc and unfortunately this proved to be a reality.
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To be honest i'm being swayed towards the PR3 the more reviews i read.
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Due to finding a screw in my tyre yesterday i'm gonna be looking for a new rear sooner rather than later, i've plugged it for the time being as it was in the fleshy part of the rubber.
I've decided to give the Michelin Pilot a go this time.
Question is which one, the PR3 or the PR4 ?
Bike's a commuter mainly, so i don't chuck it around so much these days, although i do have my moments, but i do like the tyres to stay planted firmly in the wet, and obviously longevity would be a bonus as well as wearing evenly.
There's not much price difference so i'm not bothered about that.
But has anyone tried both, and maybe preferred one over the other? Any thoughts?
I have used PR3s on the 600 and PR4s on the 1000 and both are excellent tyres in wet or dry
The best combination I have found with the PRs on the 600 and the 1000 and what I am presently running on the 600 is PR3 Front and PR4 rear.
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Got PR3's on my thou. Very happy with them. They wear well too. Recently replaced the rear, went for another PR3 as it was a good few quid more for the PR4.
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Due to finding a screw in my tyre yesterday i'm gonna be looking for a new rear sooner rather than later, i've plugged it for the time being as it was in the fleshy part of the rubber.
I've decided to give the Michelin Pilot a go this time.
Question is which one, the PR3 or the PR4 ?
Bike's a commuter mainly, so i don't chuck it around so much these days, although i do have my moments, but i do like the tyres to stay planted firmly in the wet, and obviously longevity would be a bonus as well as wearing evenly.
There's not much price difference so i'm not bothered about that.
But has anyone tried both, and maybe preferred one over the other? Any thoughts?
I have used PR3s on the 600 and PR4s on the 1000 and both are excellent tyres in wet or dry
The best combination I have found with the PRs on the 600 and the 1000 and what I am presently running on the 600 is PR3 Front and PR4 rear.
That's what i want to hear, i've never ever bought a pair of the same tyres in 30 years riding, always gone on realistic feedback.
I've looked at reviews in the past and found that some tyres, whether it be front or rear, can outdo the opposite.
The T30 has been good, albeit a tad sticky as far as picking up unwanted debris.
I really like the BT023 front, it just works for the way i ride.
But you've now messed up my decision again. :lol
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Oooooooooooooooohhh a tyre thread :wall
PR3 all the way
+1 for PR3 :wall :lol
:useless of said PR3 tyre :evil
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Oooooooooooooooohhh a tyre thread :wall
PR3 all the way
+1 for PR3 :wall :lol
:useless of said PR3 tyre :evil
It's certainly heading that way, £97 for a PR3, or £109 for the PR4 from Oponeo.
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Metzeler Sportec M5 Interact have served me very well in both hot and cold. Though, never riding below freezing temps.
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Got PR3s on my FZ1s, they are round ,black and work fine in dry or wet weather. How hard would you have to work a tyre on the road to notice the difference between a PR3 or a PR4?
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Got PR3s on my FZ1s, they are round ,black and work fine in dry or wet weather. How hard would you have to work a tyre on the road to notice the difference between a PR3 or a PR4?
The PR4 rear will last longer :thumbup
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Oooooooooooooooohhh a tyre thread :wall
PR3 all the way
What are you comparing them to?
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I've had 2x PR3s and on my 2nd PR4 on the rear. Throughout these it's been PR3's on the front.
The PR3s lasted for 7100 and 5600 miles. The 2nd one had more mileage in it, but was punctured (see below)
The 1st PR4 went for 9750. Money was tight at this point, so I plugged the old PR3 and ran it for another 1200, taking it to a total of 7800, when it punctured again and I couldn't justify a repair at that mileage.
Only up to 1700 on the 2nd PR4.
As for feel, when I switched from the PR3 to the PR4 I wasn't so keen. It felt like the tyre was taller in the middle and tipped differently (imaging the two ends of an egg- the wide end being PR3 and the pointy end the PR4). This feeling was confirmed when I switched back to the worn PR3. I went with a PR4 again to see if I was imagining it, but I wasn't.
My next tyre choice may depend on the mileage I get out of it. If it gets around the same as the last PR4 I may go for another one, just for value for money. However if it's not as good on the mileage, then I may go for the PR3 for riding feel.
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I've had 2x PR3s and on my 2nd PR4 on the rear. Throughout these it's been PR3's on the front.
The PR3s lasted for 7100 and 5600 miles. The 2nd one had more mileage in it, but was punctured (see below)
The 1st PR4 went for 9750. Money was tight at this point, so I plugged the old PR3 and ran it for another 1200, taking it to a total of 7800, when it punctured again and I couldn't justify a repair at that mileage.
Only up to 1700 on the 2nd PR4.
As for feel, when I switched from the PR3 to the PR4 I wasn't so keen. It felt like the tyre was taller in the middle and tipped differently (imaging the two ends of an egg- the wide end being PR3 and the pointy end the PR4). This feeling was confirmed when I switched back to the worn PR3. I went with a PR4 again to see if I was imagining it, but I wasn't.
My next tyre choice may depend on the mileage I get out of it. If it gets around the same as the last PR4 I may go for another one, just for value for money. However if it's not as good on the mileage, then I may go for the PR3 for riding feel.
Nice review there fella......just to confuse me even more. :lol
Was kinda going towards the PR4 but you just put me back towards the PR3 again. Good description with the egg. :thumbup
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Thought i’d mention i went for the PR4 in the end and i must admit i’m already loving it.
Bearing in mind the tyre is still a bit shiny as it was only fitted Saturday, and also i’ve ridden in rain and cold weather that’s created very slippery roads, the tyre has remained planted firmly on the road with not even a hint of sliding at all.
It’s unfortunate i had to change it now with the iffy weather looming but it’s a thumbs up from me from what i’ve experienced so far. :thumbup
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Well that only took you a month............... :lol
Welcome to the PR3/4 appreciation society :thumbup
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Love the pr4 but for the dry weather the pp3 ate far superior..
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Well that only took you a month............... :lol
Welcome to the PR3/4 appreciation society :thumbup
I know, i was riding around with a plugged tyre that also had over half a bottle of that Slime stuff rolling about, it knocked the rear end well off balance.
It was more of a calendar thing though, the tyre took a few days to arrive, then it was my weekend on call for work so had to wait for the next weekend when i was off to sort it all out.
Again though, REALLY cold this morning and still the tyre felt very stable, and it can only get better once it’s scrubbed in a bit. :)
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Love the pr4 but for the dry weather the pp3 ate far superior..
It’s the shit weather that i want the stability and full confidence for though, and in fairness we do have a lot of shit weather.
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True, I've switched back to the pr4 for the run up to Christmas then onto the storm 3d xm then the conti motion then back to the pp3 in April.
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I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there.
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .
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I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there.
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .
Fronts last longer than rears anyway, so if it's still in good nick i'd personally leave it alone and change it when necessary.
Or are you just looking for an excuse? :lol
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I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.
Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.
I have a replacement to go on but will leave it until nearer Springtime, the replacement is a Bridgestone T30 Evo for the front.
I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.
I have heard some great things about The Bridgestone T30 Evo apparently 'Ron Haslam' uses them on all his bikes at his racing school.
If they are good enough for R............ :rolleyes
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I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.
Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.
I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.
What suspension changes have you made since putting these tires on?
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Complete change front and rear, rear shocker Nitron, front Ohlins Linears and YSS emus, but have to say its much better now than it was before the upgrades were done, so the upgrades are not responsible in any way.
The original 021F that was on the bike when I got it was feathered and that was the reason I changed it, but the new one has done the same at 3,500 clicks, 2/3rds use with the old suspension set up 1/3rd with the new.
I have been reading about the 021 on the front and lots complain that they feather, some also say that with the T30 Evo on the feathering has stopped.
So I will give it a go in the springtime and let cha know. :thumbup
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Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.
But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.
All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.
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Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.
But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.
All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.
:eek :eek :eek :eek its quicker to walk
Never felt the need to fiddle, maybe - 10 stone at a push (with the UKs finest Sunday dinner onboard ) is just not enough to warrant it. Mind you I only need 1 set up ----dry
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Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.
But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.
All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.
Wow. Ive ragged my around donington, ridden to work in heatwaves, frost, pouring rain, howling gales, and with two different manufactures tyres on the bike, and never adjusted. I think id give up biking rather than faff every time i got the bikes out :)
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For me it's not a faff. The changes can be made while the bike is warming up. You'd only be stood waiting anyway.
I spent 20 years racing so to me this is just what you do. I wouldn't ride without wearing safety gear (how many other people do you see wearing a leatt brace) and I wouldn't ride without working this stuff out either.
It's part of the fun of riding.
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Sorry :o - each to their own -- I am ATGATT but had to google leatt brace ( i might get one ) but in the winter with 3 layers of thermal and a leather jaket and a high vis and buff neck scarf its difficult enough to look behind as it is.
Respect 20 years racing and yes I do agree its all part of the fun and if I am honest I too enjoy the prep and faff of it all but sometimes by the time I am ready to go its gone cloudy and looking a little bit iffy.
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Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.
But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.
All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.
:eek :eek :eek :eek its quicker to walk
Never felt the need to fiddle, maybe - 10 stone at a push (with the UKs finest Sunday dinner onboard ) is just not enough to warrant it. Mind you I only need 1 set up ----dry
I have quoted Sharpie but could just have easily quoted Agricola.
I have set my sags
Static Front 25 mm
Static Rear 16 mm
Rider Sag Front 41 mm
Rider Sag Rear 37 mm
the Nitron R1 was built and set up for my riding weight at the factory, but I have softened the rebound by the smallest of margins as I have lost about 8 lbs in weight since the shock was built,.
The emulators were set up for my rider weight and the fork oil weight fine tuned to give me the best rebound I could get even hard powering out of fast bumpy bends the front tyre stays in firm contact with the road (Apart from the odd little twitch because of feathered tyre) The Front Fork Emulators adjustment take care of compression.
I love the way the bike rides.
Like Sharpie the 'Racing Snake' I don't do wet weather. so the suspension is let at its optimal setting for me to ride in the dry when the weather is warm.
I enjoy blasting about on the bike, but, I am no racer.
I found that out in the mid seventies when I helped run-in a Morgo Bonneville at Brands Hatch one Wedneday afternoon (Practice Day) dropping down into South Bank thinking I was King of Brands doing probably about 80mph when a 3 pot 2T Kwacker passed between me and the checker kerbs on the right hand side of the track, the bike went through a 3 foot gap between me and the kerbs doing about 30 mph more that I was doing, I did not see it or hear it until it was alongside that was when I realised racing was not for me, Back into the pit lane on the Start and Finish straight the end of that lap to relieve myself.
I rode hard on the road but the track is a completely different ballgame.
The King of Brands I was not, more like the Joker of Brands. My mate Nigel Warn went on to get a second at Oulton Park in Cheshire the following Saturday on the Morgo.
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No apologies necessary.
Most people would find braces inconvenient but I've used them or something similar for 30 years.
As for iffy weather, you wouldn't believe how that makes me feel, I love riding in the rain, especially during/just after a torrential downpour (a couple of hours) the roads are so clean and grippy under the water.
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I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.
Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.
I have a replacement to go on but will leave it until nearer Springtime, the replacement is a Bridgestone T30 Evo for the front.
I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.
I have heard some great things about The Bridgestone T30 Evo apparently 'Ron Haslam' uses them on all his bikes at his racing school.
If they are good enough for R............ :rolleyes
Can only imagine the T30 would be nice and sticky on the front, the rear i just removed served me well, but i have to say even after one week the PR4 on the rear has seriously impressed me with its grip, which is exactly what i want.
Early days yet as well, it should get even better once scrubbed in.
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Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.
But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.
All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.
:eek :eek :eek :eek its quicker to walk
Never felt the need to fiddle, maybe - 10 stone at a push (with the UKs finest Sunday dinner onboard ) is just not enough to warrant it. Mind you I only need 1 set up ----dry
:lol
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Hi, sorry to kind of hijack the thread, but I think it's kind of relevant, I've got Dunlop D209 Qualifiers fitted, they're virtually new and I haven't had any issues with them so far but I haven't ridden in the wet yet and I'm a bit nervous about the first time I get caught out because I've read a few reviews saying that they're scary in the rain, has anyone here tried them? if so what did/do you think to them
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They will be fine, not as good as the PR 3 and 4 in the cold wet as they are very slow to heat up, once you are aware of that then you should be fine.
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Look out for lack of grip on the edges of the tyre in the rain. There is a lot of rubber there and not much in the way of sipes to disperse the water.
(http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/images/tyres/dunlop_qualifier_d209.jpg)
Unlike the PR4 which has lots of sipes and grooves.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Various-Photos/i-DKFVskS/0/ada5aa4a/O/PR4.jpg)
It's the reason I change from PP3 GP to PR4 GT when the weather starts to get wet.
I've put the PP3 GP back on for the coming week as it looks like it's going to be mostly dry.
Think I'll have to dispose of them after this use though as they have got too many heat cycles on them and most of the oil has leached over the summer cycles.
(https://i.imgur.com/JQQAruV.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/JQQAruV)
(https://goo.gl/images/uvbSvd)
(https://goo.gl/images/uvbSvd)
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Thanks for the feedback, I don't ride through the winter nowadays, I did 7 or 8 when I first started riding and decided I didn't like it but I have decided not to hibernate the bike this year, so I may get to ride it on dry, mild, cloudy days. I'll make sure I warm them up before I do my version of going for it in the dry and be careful in the wet until I get a feel for them. I don't entirely trust online customer reviews, some people will badmouth anything if they have a keyboard in front of them but I trust you guys to be honest. :thumbup
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Hi, sorry to kind of hijack the thread, but I think it's kind of relevant, I've got Dunlop D209 Qualifiers fitted, they're virtually new and I haven't had any issues with them so far but I haven't ridden in the wet yet and I'm a bit nervous about the first time I get caught out because I've read a few reviews saying that they're scary in the rain, has anyone here tried them? if so what did/do you think to them
Following on from this hijack (sorry!) I'd appreciate if anyone could give me some advice:
Twice in my life I've had a front wheel slide out on me, once on a bicycle (I think I may have run over a crisp packet whilst turning a corner in the wet) and once on a moped (again in the wet, but for no reason that I could find, other than maybe just crap cheap tyres!)
As such, I'm always extremely careful on roundabouts and corners in wet weather (virtually tip-toeing around them sometimes) because, even though I've got very good reactions, in both of the above examples there was *nothing* I could do, literally it was slip -> bang :(
I've had the occasional twitch on the rear from putting on a bit too much throttle when leant over in the wet, however I'm much more worried about having the front go out on me again.
So is it more likely to a) have the rear go (potential lowside) which I have a chance of dealing with or b) for the front to slip and have no chance to do anything about it?
Does anyone have any recommendations for good (and safe) cornering in the wet?
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This is exactly what I've been trying to get at previously.
It doesn't matter how much you spend on tyres, if your suspension and chassis aren't set up correctly you'll always have the same problems.
Where are you based? If it's not too far away from me (within 150 miles) we could go out for a ride and have a look at your technique and set up if you want to.
The weather is supposed to be particularly bad this weekend. 😎
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I've been happy with PR4's so when these one's wear out I shall more than likely get the same again.
For me it's not a faff. The changes can be made while the bike is warming up. You'd only be stood waiting anyway.
I spent 20 years racing so to me this is just what you do.
You are so used to doing this that it is 2nd nature.
I like to ride fast but not as fast as others. I set my suspension probably once a year and it tends to be set slightly soft because that's how I like it.
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I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there.
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .
Fronts last longer than rears anyway, so if it's still in good nick i'd personally leave it alone and change it when necessary.
Or are you just looking for an excuse? :lol
Excuse wise I need to do the back before the MOT in the spring, the front has another two years of my low yearly mileage BUT it has a manufacture of March 2010 and was fitted April 2011 so next spring it will be 8 years old so maybe I can use that as an excuse to replace it, the back has December 08 and was fitted May 09.
If the pp3s are softer and wear quicker then that is fine with me as I run out of time before tread.
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Pp3s actually last really well, I managed to get the same out of them as I do from the pr4.
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I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there.
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .
Fronts last longer than rears anyway, so if it's still in good nick i'd personally leave it alone and change it when necessary.
Or are you just looking for an excuse? :lol
Excuse wise I need to do the back before the MOT in the spring, the front has another two years of my low yearly mileage BUT it has a manufacture of March 2010 and was fitted April 2011 so next spring it will be 8 years old so maybe I can use that as an excuse to replace it, the back has December 08 and was fitted May 09.
If the pp3s are softer and wear quicker then that is fine with me as I run out of time before tread.
After all the feedback and reviews i've read, plus your style of riding, i think matching PR3's will be perfect for you.
If you have a place that will fit them for you it's cheaper to buy from Oponeo then pay for fitting afterwards, you'll still save money than if you were to go into a shop with the whole bike.
I paid £110 for the PR4 and £15 to have it fitted (wheel removed from bike).
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I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there.
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .
Fronts last longer than rears anyway, so if it's still in good nick i'd personally leave it alone and change it when necessary.
Or are you just looking for an excuse? :lol
Excuse wise I need to do the back before the MOT in the spring, the front has another two years of my low yearly mileage BUT it has a manufacture of March 2010 and was fitted April 2011 so next spring it will be 8 years old so maybe I can use that as an excuse to replace it, the back has December 08 and was fitted May 09.
If the pp3s are softer and wear quicker then that is fine with me as I run out of time before tread.
After all the feedback and reviews i've read, plus your style of riding, i think matching PR3's will be perfect for you.
If you have a place that will fit them for you it's cheaper to buy from Oponeo then pay for fitting afterwards, you'll still save money than if you were to go into a shop with the whole bike.
I paid £110 for the PR4 and £15 to have it fitted (wheel removed from bike).
Thanks I will look at them against the pp3s but the pr3 seem more geared to wet than the pp3s (obviously not at the top of my list ) not read enough of either to be fair but looking for something that cares not for longevity.
I will be doing a ride in as I want to support my local fitter as that's all he does and wont rip you off with a replacement when a repair will do because if he gos I am left with dealers
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As I get through 4 rears and 2 fronts a year I got fed up paying for fitting and having to go out to have it done so I bought a manual tyre fitting machine.
Inside 8 months it's paid for itself and for a new compressor.
Can get a pair of pp3s for 155 quid and for them in under 15 minutes.. Each set of tyres I fit saves me 70 quid.
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I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there.
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .
Fronts last longer than rears anyway, so if it's still in good nick i'd personally leave it alone and change it when necessary.
Or are you just looking for an excuse? :lol
Excuse wise I need to do the back before the MOT in the spring, the front has another two years of my low yearly mileage BUT it has a manufacture of March 2010 and was fitted April 2011 so next spring it will be 8 years old so maybe I can use that as an excuse to replace it, the back has December 08 and was fitted May 09.
If the pp3s are softer and wear quicker then that is fine with me as I run out of time before tread.
After all the feedback and reviews i've read, plus your style of riding, i think matching PR3's will be perfect for you.
If you have a place that will fit them for you it's cheaper to buy from Oponeo then pay for fitting afterwards, you'll still save money than if you were to go into a shop with the whole bike.
I paid £110 for the PR4 and £15 to have it fitted (wheel removed from bike).
Thanks I will look at them against the pp3s but the pr3 seem more geared to wet than the pp3s (obviously not at the top of my list ) not read enough of either to be fair but looking for something that cares not for longevity.
I will be doing a ride in as I want to support my local fitter as that's all he does and wont rip you off with a replacement when a repair will do because if he gos I am left with dealers
No the PR3 was reviewed even on here as better in the dry than the PR4 for example.
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Got a nail in it :'(
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As Blackadder said...the phrase rhymes with clucking bell :'(
It always seems to happen to a new tyre doesn't it.
Repairable?
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If it is the thin nail that is the only thing i can see, then it’s in the fleshy part so i’m taking the bike in on Thursday morning and i’ll get it properly plugged.
To be honest i thought my rear shock had a problem so it’s the lesser of two evils.
Still a bloody nuisance though, and you’re right, my previous tyre got a screw in it the day after it was fitted as well.
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Got a nail in it :'(
So did I, picked it up last Wednesday. Currently running with a Plug'N'Go to keep me mobile, but I've ordered the bits I need to do a proper patch/plug repair from the inside.
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Rather than start another thread I am gonna add to this as its all relevant.
Been reading about the PR3s and came across Pilot power 2CT and they sound perfect for me, no one on here has ever seemed to mention them.
I have a BT 023 on the front fitted in April 2011 manufactured October 2010 with plenty of tread left but it is maybe a bit old now.
Back is a BT 021 fitted May 2009 manufacture date of 08 and that is ready to change almost down to the marker and done 7 k.
My ride for those who dont know.
I don't do wet
I do do cold
I don't do commute
I do do all year round
I dont do straight roads
I do do bends
I don't ride enough
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I have a BT 023 on the front fitted in April 2011 manufactured October 2010 with plenty of tread left but it is maybe a bit old now.
Back is a BT 021 fitted May 2009 manufacture date of 08 and that is ready to change almost down to the marker and done 7 k.
If those tyres are really that old you really should replace them! After 5 or 6 years, even if they've not been used, the rubber in them may well have degraded to the point that they could fail catastrophically without warning.
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As it's topically been resurrected, the PR4 on the rear has been nothing short of fantastic!
STILL never even had the slightest slip regardless off weather.
100% recommended
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Yes I am defiantly replacing them, could be PR4 or BT030 but wondered why the pp2CTs have not been mentioned. They sound like they are very soft and wear down quick which is exactly what I need so I am not tempted to keep them on so long cause they are old yet still have lots of wear
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I would be happy if I could get a rear to last 2k miles and a front about 3.5k.
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I would be happy if I could get a rear to last 2k miles and a front about 3.5k.
On what tyres
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Yep my tyres are old before they are worn and there has to be a good reason why the Manufacture date is stamped on them but why is it not an MOT issue when silly (in comparison) issues like not having a working horn can fail you.
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PR2s second rear just fitted 2100miles out last one. The wear is pretty even over the width of the tyre. Wear my car tyres out quick too so must be me nothing wrong with the tyres
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As it's topically been resurrected, the PR4 on the rear has been nothing short of fantastic!
STILL never even had the slightest slip regardless off weather.
100% recommended
Just came across PR5s now
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As it's topically been resurrected, the PR4 on the rear has been nothing short of fantastic!
STILL never even had the slightest slip regardless off weather.
100% recommended
Just came across PR5s now
Its a bit like Samsung and Apple, they try to convince us that we must have the latest version of their product as it has a 5 times faster processor or they are grippier than the last model. Or, is it that their last model was crap really, and this new one they are singing the praises of now will also be crap next year.
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:rollin :rollin :rollin
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on my FZ1-S I've been in PR2 for ages. Did try PR3 and noticed little difference other than rear only lasting 2.5k miles. PR2 rear lasts me for 4k miles and 2:1 rear/front replacement ratio (just). Last set were Roadtec 01s (on offer where I go £30 off pair ) - in comparison to PR2 the 01s never spun up once in the wet (good) but rear squared off badly and no way front was going to last two rears. Got 4k out of the rear.Now have Road 5 set on (these were on offer this time - £30 off pair) - tread pattern looks 'good' - time will tell - tbh if these hadn't been on offer I'd have gone for a set of PR2 again.
When I had my six my regular tyre was 020, 021, 023 - tried 016 once (in the dry they were fantastic - but rear didn't last long 2k miles)
Update Sep 2018: PR5 - rear lasted 4k! front about 1k left to go - gone back to PR2s! At least I know I've got another 4k miles to go!
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Stop whispering and speak up!!
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on my FZ1-S I've been in PR2 for ages. Did try PR3 and noticed little difference other than rear only lasting 2.5k miles. PR2 rear lasts me for 4k miles and 2:1 rear/front replacement ratio (just). Last set were Roadtec 01s (on offer where I go £30 off pair ) - in comparison to PR2 the 01s never spun up once in the wet (good) but rear squared off badly and no way front was going to last two rears. Got 4k out of the rear.Now have Road 5 set on (these were on offer this time - £30 off pair) - tread pattern looks 'good' - time will tell - tbh if these hadn't been on offer I'd have gone for a set of PR2 again.When I had my six my regular tyre was 020, 021, 023 - tried 016 once (in the dry they were fantastic - but rear didn't last long 2k miles)
LOUD ENOUGH :lol