Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Riggerlee88 on 14 July 2019, 03:35:37 pm
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Hi all hoping for some info please since owning the bike it seems to have a very heavy clutch, so today I have replaced the friction plates and pressure plate springs for OEM also over the winter i converted the bike to a cafe racer so all cables are new and oiled. Whilst replacing the friction plates i did notice the steel plates are blueing so do need replacing however would this cause a heavy clutch??
Cheers
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If you have replaced all the usual items the only other possible problems are a badly routed cable or the clutch actuator in the Sprocket cover is stiff from lack of lubrication.
Check this download and how to regrease it. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=60 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=60)
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Cheers for the link I think your right regarding the actuator as it will click from time to time when the clutch is pulled.
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Just keep moving the actuator and fill the whole unit full of bearings behind where the nut normally sits with as much spray grease as it will physically take.
This is the same difference, but a bit more fun to read, still courtesy of Unfazed though.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.0.html)
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Brilliant cheers for your help everyone I will try to get at it tomorrow after work fingers crossed it works!!
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Quick update managed to grease up the actuator the first 5 applications of spray grease released a f**k load of rust and crud, outcome is a slightly smoother operation however I still have the clicking and to be honest I am not sure if the actuator is on its last legs when greasing a had three ballbearings drop out of the casing; I did try to force them back into the unit grooves which seemed to hold them in location. P.S your not wrong about the screws made from cheese!!! managed to free the bottom one with little effort which gave me false hope the top would be the same half an hour later heat gun in hand and hammering a torx fitting into the screw still no joy!! lets see how this runs once I have changed the rear light bar and fabricated a rear cable tray.
cheers again for your help :)
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The whole sprocket cover as a unit aren't that expensive, if you can find one.
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The only way I found of getting those cheesey screwes out was to using a left hand drill bit and reverse on the drill. As Darssi says plenty of good covers on ebay for £25 and less
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The only way I found of getting those cheesey screwes out was to using a left hand drill bit and reverse on the drill. As Darssi says plenty of good covers on ebay for £25 and less
Damn good point :thumbup
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Agreed cheers,
I honestly thought they were going to come out after I applied all the heat oh well lesson learnt :eek
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SOLVED!!!! Thank you all for your advice I ended up raiding Ebay for another sprocket cover and actuator. Fitted it and the operation of the clutch is night and day what a difference!!!!
Next issue I have as the bike rear end is custom there effectively is no location for the ECU CDI to sit without being open to the elements under the seat pan (flat plate seat) has anybody relocated the ECU CDI to another position without having to open the loom to maximise length?
See attached image of where it could be positioned and create a tray; issue is then wheel clearance and tray attachment to the bike? (yes this should all have been factored in earlier however seat pan sits flush to the frame tube which wasn't planned) :'(
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You need the wiring to be reliable so I'd be more inclined leave it alone and change the seat to accommodate it.
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You could cut into the seat hump from underneath seal the internal of the hump and put it in there with a flap for access or seat removal.