Hi Peeps.


Just ordered another Renthal bar for my other project.


24MX are selling em cheaper than any I can find on the internet, link below if anyone's after some.
Also option for a further £10 discount if u wanna share a message via F/Book messenger, just send it your Mrs & they'll likely get some sales bumf from 24MX.


https://www.24mx.co.uk/product/renthal-78-handlebar-grey_pid-PM-4907391?gclid=CjwKCAjwsfuYBhAZEiwA5a6CDPQLW6myxq23LmlCUmkQ2yq6CdIUGEj5KMUknaqGJgw7cq1WDh8aSxoCEdIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


 

[Edited to fix the tiny font - GrahamM - Moderator]

***SOLD***
Having a clearout.


For sale


Rare to find.
NOS Genuine Yamaha Carbon fibre tank pad to fit Gen1 1000.
Dry fitted on my tank, fits very well.
Original sticky pads included, these may not be suitable as this part is NOS.


It's as it come from Yamaha, had this for yrs, never been out the bag until recently, removed to dry fit on my tank, but decided I prefer my Bagster cover instead.
Wind took the bag ffs Grrrrrrr.
Will be well packaged & posted via Royal Mail 2nd class unless you require 1st class signed for at your cost.


£50 posted
Payment via Paypal only.


Interested?
PM me.


Cheers
Rgds
Gaz

Thanks Gaz for very informative reply,, it's certainly made me think a bit more about it. I certainly wont be trying with dremmel. I have a bike breakers only 10 miles away so could always pop in if need a new leg,, if they havent got one I can get them to let me know when they get one in,, also thinking maybe there is a market here for these adjusters, as my brother is a turner/cnc so could get him to make some, only trouble being he is about 250 miles away in sunny somerset.

I agree there's a defo market for these Comp adjusters, think how many Gen1 1000's are out there, most have seized Comp adjusters, there's plenty aftermarket adjusters around for sale, but none I can find that'll fit, I did consider a smaller adjuster & sleeve the hole in the Fazer fork down, but the cost of a 1 off would be prohibitive, hence I sorted mine with blood & sweat.


They're nothing too complicated, it's basically just a Brass tapered metering needle screw type affair that's "O-ring" sealed & basically riveted into a housing to slow or speed up oil flow, it would take a bit of fabricating from scratch, easiest option would be to buy another branded adjuster & disassemble & reverse engineer it in a size to fit the Fazer legs.

Something hasent been assembled correctly by the sounds of it. Gnasher may have some input, but you should NOT have had to modify or create a work around to reassemble the forks. Did you follow the manual? - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/659471/Yamaha-Fz1.html

The way I put forks tops back on when the spring pre-load makes it hard, is to place a bit of cardboard/carpet under the bottom of the fork to protect the end and then use my body weight to push down with one hand then and then with the other hand make a wide arc (1/2 of a single turn) on the spanner to get the thread started.

It's all assembled correctly, probly done hundreds of forks over the yrs, defo spring/inner stanchion contact, all springs rub, hence grey fork oil when u drop it, stick a magnet in old fork oil, it'll be covered in metal bits.
Just a bit noisier than expected, 1st time of using K-tech stuff, might be my last, I'm not the only one with experience off tight K-tech fork bushes, no way would they go in without opening up the end gap by 0.25mm minimum, still tight but went in without too much of a wollap from my bush fitting tool.


It's only audible bouncing forks, can't hear it while riding with a lid on.
I'll suck it n see for now.

Have u checked bearing races are fully seated in frames head tube & fully bottomed on steering stem?


Is every part present & assembled correctly?
Is everything torqued up correctly?
Check manual or on Fowlers parts site to ensure all parts fitted are in correct orientation.


Unless steerer tube is loose in bottom yoke, which is unlikely, can't see any reason why u have steering play, are u 100% play is in the steering, could be excessive fork bush play masking itself as steering play?

Hi Baz.


My Comp adjusters were seized too.
Put a piece of clear PVC pipe over alloy section, couple of tie wraps on tight & flooded em with decent penetrating oil, left it for wks & it did feck all, yrs of hardened crap stop any oil getting in.


Decided to do a full K-tech refurb, so dropped forks, stripped em & removed the complete Comp adjusters.
My experience is you need to get the lower leg quite hot with a hot air gun, don't heat the actual Comp adjuster itself, it's  a sealed unit & has O-rings inside that may melt,.
Comp adjuster alloy housing is thread locked into fork leg, heat will crack the thread lock if u get it hot & penetrating oil down the threads & rock adjuster back n forth with a good fitting spanner, there's a special socket for the job, but it aint cheap so it was a no brainer spanner option for me.
Don't go at it too hard with a spanner, heat & lube & it'll come free, it's not that tight, unless it winds out nice & easy, work it out as if you were tap threading a hole.
Once it's cracked loose, use plenty of lube or it'll gawl the threads up, I had one that was a right mare to get out & had to be re-threaded.

Heat gun process actually helped free off the brass adjuster a bit too, but mine were coming out anyway as forks were being stripped & painted.


A few sessions in ultrasonic bath & brass adjuster screw came free & clicks as it should after a good dousing in ACF50 & several full winds in & out, they now function like new.
If considering a dremel to re-cut the brass screw slot, be super careful, there's an alloy ring around brass adjuster screw, it looks like this holds the whole centre section in place as it appears to be peened over around the screw, muller this ring & the whole unit may be leak oil/fall apart & generally be scrap?


I wouldn't recommend ever using a blow torch either, you'll very likely destroy the Comp adjuster, as it's sealed & has O-rings inside, it surprised me how much crap came out of em in my Sonic bath.
Spent ages tidying up the brass adjuster screw with rifling needle files, I made an alloy driver out of some scrap stuff, it's now my dedicated suspension screw twiddler & it won't muller the brass screw like a steel driver will.


If you go down this route & remove the Comp adjusters, there's a thin steel washer under its base, don't loose it or you're knackered.


Hope my many hrs spent in finding the above out helps others planning on attempting removing the wonderfully engineered Comp adjusters.
Cheers Yamaha "NOT".

If you destroy em, it's eBay for some more forks, Comp adjusters aren't available from Yamaha & I can't find anyone that make any that'll fit these fork legs, hence can't be bought for love nor money.


Bin the 190 & fit a correct 180 or you'll end up in the weeds.


Rgds
Gaz

Hi Peeps


Just been steadily rebuilding my Fazer 1000 (full refurb)


Road test time tuther day Oh yes, giddy heads on.


Clicked seat in place & low & behold the feckers flopping about like crazy loose.
All rubber buffers in place, all measure same depth so can't have fitted any in wrong position.
Nothing obviously wrong with the locking mechanism (or so I thought).


Took it out, close examination, nope can't see feck all wrong with it, refitted it & packed it away from frame rail with a couple of stainless washers, clicked seat in expecting wobble to be much improved, not a feckin chance, in fact it was just as bad.
Took the latch out again, another close inspection with specs on this time.
Nope, can't see owt wrong causing this massive wobble issue.
Downed tools, it's tea time.


Back in garage after tea, bit of head scratching, latch out again ... WTF is up with this bastard?


Made another buffer pad to fit the plastic locating peg next to the latch, still no improvement.


By this time, I'm getting a bit pissed off, as obviously itching to get out for a shake down road test after the rebuild.


Downed tools, fuck it, back in house, light bulb moment "PING" I'd fitted the chromed plate on top of frame rail to use as a washer plate.
When in fact it fits under the frame rail to retain the latch sliding keeper from slapping up & down, hence my floppy seat.


Lesson learned, even a Master Tech of 40 plus yrs can't always see the wood for the trees ... DOH !!! 

Tidy bike Andy.
If I only had room Mmmmmmm.

Dya realise you've parked directly over what looks like 3 dog turds mate, ruins ya pics.

Hi Peeps.
Anyone know of a trusted powder coating in Yorkshire area, S/Yorks preferably that can do a proper bare metal strip & powder coat bike wheels.


Just had a wheel fucked up by a so called wheel specialist in Gainsborough (PB Powder Coatings / Gainsborough).
Avoid these muppets at all costs, only used them based on good reviews, just goes to show reviews count for nowt.


Cheers 

Used em on several occasions, spent a good few quid with em too.
Customer service stinks.
I'd also heard there was some connection to "Hel" maybe the jogged him on cos he's a cunt?


Thing thats pissed me off the most is the fact they threw the 30day purchase limit at me straight away, with no offer to correct their mistake, shame they're so far away or I'd go wrap these hoses around a house brick & post em back thru their biggest shop window.


Buyers beware, these are defo worth avoiding.

Hi-de-hi.


Bit of a warning about the tossers trading as Wezmoto.
Purchased a set of braided hoses for my Gen1 refurb that's been in progress for the last year or so, she's nearly done Hooray.


Yes it's been a while since purchase, only opened up pack yesterday, hence a bit shocked in what I found, the Stainless banjo's drillings are full of swarf, spent a good while cleaning em out with a small drill bit & a good flush out with brake cleaner.


Checked hoses & OMG!

These clowns have made me up a set with crimped in banjo's & basically fucked em up, banjo's crimped in wrong position with wrong ends fitted.
Messaged em via Ebay explaining their error.
Shop Reply:Stick hose in vice & force crimped banjo into a better position.
My reply: Are u having a laugh, they're made wrong by you!
Shop reply: We'll only accept a return if within 30 days of purchase.


Basically front hoses are scrap, rear is ok & fits as it should.
If anyone needs a Brand new Braided (Black) rear hose with stainless fittings, I have 1 for sale £15 posted.


Hope this post helps anyone else having the same issue.


Personally I'll never use these tossers again, your money, your choice.

Don't take this the wrong way, but I doubt no-one on here is going to buy from a new member, especially from USA.
We're having a reoccurring issue with scammers on F/Book Fazer group claiming to be in the USA.


We can source any bike components in the UK.

You've bought aftermarket copies, they're made incorrect ... personally I'd try & find a decent genuine set from an Ebay bike breaker, loads for sale, some at silly prices, just bide ya time & keep looking.