Oooo gremlins ... we've all had em at some point.
From experience, I would put money on alarms system has had it ... Meta/ Datatool alarm systems are crap & all fail at some point, wiring can be a pain to unpick from the loom & get things back to stock, but it can be done, IMHO it's far safer & easier to wire in your own ignition cut switch & hide it out of sight.
Youtube is your friend if ya not clued up testing with a meter ... Might be worth pulling the ignition switch & check for broken wires (continuity test from switch to loom connector under tank) "Kill" switch can also cause issues, I've had all the above at some point, hence my Meta alarm is long gone.
I also suggest starting at the front of the bike & meter test each loom plug, pull apart & check for the dreaded "Green Death" if you find any, you can pretty much scrap that connector, 2 loom plugs under left front infill trim are the main culprits for corrosion & can shut the bike down for no apparent reason.

Hi.
You need an R6 shock & longer dog bones, many of us have this mod on the 1000

1st set of Mich Pilot Road 5's on my 1000, happy so far, nearly a 1000mls & no visible signs of wear as yet, fair weather only.

Hi.


Your desired R6 mod would be an easier fabrication job if u sourced the correct model R6 rear subframe off eBay, half the work is already done, it would just need sussing out where to cut things & fab some mountings to adapt it onto your Fazer 600, don't forget you'll need a seat & rear light assembly to match the R6 tail unit.

It's destined to fail from the start, only a complete pillock would come up with a system that removes a hard shoulder & relies on electronic signs & cameras & think it's a safe idea, amazes me it ever got signed off, WTF is the world coming to.
 

Hi Pal.


What info are u specifically looking for?


If it's measurements of a 1000 nose cone, I can help with that, 1000 is defo a bigger unit than a 600, both look very similar from 20yards away but very different up close.

Is it just me,or has this been addressed in the past?
I don't see why there's no tab to mark a sales add as Sold.
Sale adds stay on for mths on end, even if marked as sold buy the seller.


Surely this is an easy fix for some computermabob wizard to add in a "Delete or Sold" tab, this would instantly free up space on the site.

Nope no advancer rotor as yet, bikes starts ok as is, runs mega.
Saying that though, I'm considering trying a 4 degree rotor or modifying my OEM rotor next time casing needs to come off.


As Teeccee advises, defo replace float valve seals as a minimum, there's also a fine mesh gauze filter in there too that needs a good soak in brake or EGR cleaner,.
Personally I replace all O'rings in the carbs, including float bowl seal.


Since fitting my Ivans MB kit, I've come across discussions in this & other forums about pro's & con's of drilling 1 or 2 pilot holes, 2 being as per Ivans recommendations, I have no experience of trialing another set of carbs with 1 pilot drilled, so I can't say if 1 drilled is better than 2 drilled ... best person to ask would be Falcon on this forum as he's spent god knows how many hrs ripping carbs apart & tinkering away fitting Jet kits for owners less capable, but if you've got a methodical approach, pulling carbs is pretty easy to be fair.


One thing or error I've come across fitting the MB kit, is there's no mention to strip the carb bottom ends before drilling pilot holes, to me it's common sense to fully strip the carbs 1st, tiny bits of alloy swarf will end up in the carb passages if not, also no one ever mentions separating the carbs to inspect or replace the "Air cut valve" diaphragms, only 1 can be accessed with carbs together, 3 can't so they need to be split apart, seems it's an often neglected part on these Mikuni's, bike won't run correctly without them being in good order, plus you can't fully clean out the carbs effectively with either an ultra-sonic bath or solvents, Solvents will likely damage the diaphragms, I believe they're no longer available from Yamaha, plus they'd be silly money too ...   "Ali-express" is you're friend here, £15 posted from China for a set of 4 diaphragms, comes with new springs too, look identical to OEM items, same parts on ebay at £60 plus, so do yourself a favour if planning on doing the MB kit, order a full set of carb seals or "Tourmax service kit, ideally replace the float valves too, some kits come with em.


Also ensure the 2 carb vent gauze filters are spotlessly clean or you'll get poor idling or no idling, fuel starvation symptoms, these sit inline between the carbs on short hoses & vent to atmosphere above the air box (often neglected) & need a regular wash out with brake cleaner or petrol.


Most bin the "Pair" system too & block off the header tubes ('mines long gone)
Fit a set of new plugs too, older bikes seem to dislike Iridiums.


MB kit's not a cheap mod, but neither is it mega expensive, always a plentiful supply of used exhaust cans on sale on eBay or F/Book, I've done all the above & not had any probs with the carbs or the bike in general since, bit of tweaking to pilot screws may be needed but that's all.


Modifying throttle tube to 1/4 turn makes life easier too. 

***SOLD***
HogMonster is the lucky buyer.


£70 Reduced
For Sale:

Rukka Imatra Full Leather construction.
Outlast & Gore-tex lined.
Hard Carbon knuckle protection.
Hard Scaphoid protection.
Touchscreen finger pad.
Webbed little fingers.
Visor wipe.
Labelled a UK8, these are a snug UK large or a loose fit Medium.

Had little use, no scuffs or marks, in as new condition.


Cost:£175.
REDUCED: £70 posted (Paypal only)


Pls Pm if interested.

***SOLD***FOR SALE:


FZS1000 (Gen1) chromed kick stand.


£65 ono posted ... Payment via Paypal.


Pls Pm if interested 

Well everyday's a school day as they say.
I might give the TPS 10K option a whirl when winters out the way, it's costs nowt, only a few mins & a test ride, bike's in hibernation till late spring.

Seen plenty OEM 5LV used Exup cables on eBay, search in "other items" on bike breakers.
Seem to remember seeing em on Venhill site looking for hoses etc, but site is proper shite, so may not come up in the site search, just ring em up.
Got some slinky cables as a spare set, compared em against OEM cables, identical in length, only visual difference is adjusters & cable sleeving that goes down back of motor between swingarm & sump.