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Messages - Decoke Dave
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126
« on: 25 January 2019, 09:06:10 pm »
I must say I thought these cap screws were simply blanking off two access points so that you could put a pin punch in there to drift out the bush supporting the end of the valve if it needed replaced. I did not think there was a blanking plate on there.
127
« on: 22 January 2019, 11:47:21 pm »
As with all of the bikes and cars I have bought from dealers (which is not that many admittedly) I became invisible after the purchase! We all know they do not always perform the service tasks they should and always done to a budget, minimum spec oil, pattern filters etc unless purchased new and under warranty. Always best to do as much as you are confident to do yourself, keeping receipts, dates, recording mileages etc. This is only my experience, but I do believe unless mentioned BEFORE a deposit is paid the final agreed amount should not suddenly become plus this admin fee rubbish. This is simply fraud!!!!!!!! Refuse to pay it! At least some dealers ARE ARSEHOLES.
128
« on: 19 January 2019, 09:31:20 pm »
As above.
129
« on: 09 January 2019, 06:40:45 pm »
Call it what you like "Document fee", "Admin fee" it all ads up to the same thing! Rip off dealers trying to employ some kind of "clever salesmanship" nonsense. How many people have been caught out by this crap! An agreement is reached as to the total purchase price of a vehicle, after a deposit is paid the balance suddenly becomes plus X £, whatever they charge! This is always after the deal is made and is only highlighted after the supposed total cost is agreed verbally and the deposit paid! Yes it is mentioned in the website or advert small print but what they are trying to say is they are charging you for selling you the bike! The problem is on paying the deposit they then have your deposit money and a bike which may be short changed if they have promised to service it if you tell them to go and F*** themselves for the fee! Make sure you get a text, deposit and and balance amount BEFORE parting with ANY cash and keep it! Being a canny Scot it was only 300 and odd miles that prevented me from going and having an articulate word or two in person, (I had spoke to him on the phone about this"phantom charge") with the scrawny little smarmy shit (I had previously met in person) who I dealt with. No wonder dealers get a bad name when some are like this! No excuse for their actions! On the plus side bloody good bike ! More to do with the original owner though. If you are going to buy a bike from a dealer who charges this the FIRST thing to tell them is "Shove their fee up their ARSE!"
130
« on: 03 January 2019, 08:53:12 pm »
An impossible to a answer question! The individuals priorities play the biggest part! Having worked in several factories in my life as a mechanical engineer working with large workforce's, peoples personal attitude on vehicles play the biggest part in their purchase value. You get the "I only payed x for a machine on a whatever PLATE! This means nothing and is a worthless sentence. The last Gen1 Fazers are nearing 14 years old thus condition is everything! I know people who are overjoyed at getting one for £1800 with pretty high mileage, but dinged exhaust, split fairing, crap pattern mirrors that shake themselves to death, split fairing inlays, pattern indicators, marked bodywork, savage rust on frame and fixings and almost no service history but firmly believe they have a bargain because their priority was totally minimal spend, there is no right or wrong. My 05 registered bike was the BEST I could find at the time about 18 months ago, after looking for about a year, condition/history/mileage was my priority. If I had found a one owner original bike, good history with say 3000 summer only miles I would happily have paid £5000 for it. Remember we have all went to look at the blind mans minter! There are plenty of run of the mill bikes out there, genuine minters will only become harder to find. P.S. There a four Gen 1 Fazers where I work now. A clever workforce!
131
« on: 16 December 2018, 08:33:24 pm »
Exhaust header flanges.
132
« on: 16 December 2018, 03:00:57 pm »
Anyone able to recommend what they think is the best through experience?
133
« on: 09 December 2018, 11:26:55 pm »
........Thank you very much indeed! Stainless is the best possible outcome! Easily welded with a T.I.G. set up. Job should be fairly simple. .
134
« on: 08 December 2018, 09:04:08 pm »
Wondering what material these things are made from? Anyone had any success in welding up the stripped valve housing retaining threads and re-tapping them? I hate helicoils! Being time served in engineering and having full access to all the necessary workshop machines and tools it would not be difficult if the material is weldable, possibly using a T.I.G. set up? P.S. Forgot to say even if weldable will it go very hard and thus unable to drill it?
135
« on: 28 October 2018, 10:10:49 pm »
Good second hand ones, no spanner rash or rust.
136
« on: 27 October 2018, 03:45:01 pm »
Part No 5LV 271110000. Most of the S/H ones look crap!
137
« on: 25 October 2018, 11:08:37 pm »
I have seen it mentioned on here that the 143 bhp that Yamaha states for a standard Gen 1 power output is bollocks! If so what would you expect a totally standard low mileage machine to produce.. I am a 55 year old git and ex 2-stroke nut to my shame , more than happy (ecstatic) with the bike, owned one year, cannot understand why I never bought one donkeys years ago. P.S. There are less than 200 employees where I work and no less than four Gen 1 1000 owners, including me, and a 600 Boxeye owner. All of the Gen 1 owners have no intention of parting with them!
138
« on: 20 September 2018, 08:44:28 pm »
Part No 5LV 214000000 or 1C2 214000000. The front engine/ frame bracket with the rubber mounts/bushes. No longer available from Yamaha, anyone got a new one they are willing to part with? Or anyone know of any specialist dealers who have hoards of new old stock Yamaha parts? Thought I would get a more modern bike and leave the classics as they are so hard to find parts for!
139
« on: 14 September 2018, 08:56:10 pm »
Yes, many thanks, that is the same machine as I have, can anyone confirm that it is "Tech Silver".
140
« on: 13 September 2018, 04:17:00 pm »
Looking to buy some bodywork RS paints silver spray for my 2004 Thou, (Not 1000S) model code 1C21-080 B. Believe this to be what they call "Silver Tech" can anyone of you confirm this.
141
« on: 22 August 2018, 04:58:28 pm »
Sorry, all I am trying to say is, on a 2004 model (1C2) were the original handlebars of a silver painted appearance from new.
142
« on: 14 August 2018, 10:00:02 pm »
Many Thanks.
143
« on: 14 August 2018, 10:38:10 am »
As above, just so i can get some sealing washers. Thanks.
144
« on: 07 August 2018, 09:21:10 pm »
The ones fitted to my bike are silver painted. Always thought they were original, am I correct
145
« on: 04 July 2018, 09:58:55 pm »
They are the same thin usually the IC2 would be an updated version of the 5LV. Be aware some of those items are no longer available, used is the only way to go
Thanks, question answered.
146
« on: 22 June 2018, 02:19:31 pm »
SOLD. Message sent.
147
« on: 21 June 2018, 09:01:36 pm »
As I own a 2004 model FZS 1000 (registered on an 05 plate) I noticed there are two part number prefixes for the front engine mount brace, 5LV and 1C2 the rest of the numbers are the same. Anyone know why this is? What is the difference? Will they both fit?
148
« on: 21 June 2018, 08:34:29 pm »
I may be being a bit obsessive, (Mechanical engineer), but I have heard that some thous tend to knock and snatch a bit going into 1st from neutral when stationary, as mine did slightly. Found the best way to make this quite sweet was to use a low idle speed (just under 1000 rpm). Sure I read somewhere on here it is not a good idea to have the idle speed so low. The bike ticks over nicely at this speed and just clicks going into gear, Is this a load of bollocks or not, I know this is lower than the handbook says?
149
« on: 19 May 2018, 06:51:08 pm »
Even just an original tag A7338. I just like to have all the little bits that were supplied with the bike. I know I can get a key cut by several methods would just like the silly little metal tag. Lots of old and knackered Fazers around now, I believe there are only a few different keys.
150
« on: 17 May 2018, 10:49:44 pm »
Many thanks gents, just what I thought.
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