Date: 24-07-17  Time: 01:37 AM

Recent Posts

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1
General / Re: cooling system flush
« Last post by darrsi on 23 July 2017, 11:50:31 PM »
Stuff i use is luminous yellow, but comes ready mixed.
Not changed it for a couple of years now but it's still yellow and never needs topping up so it's obviously all good.
2
The MOT ran out on the 14th but there was no "rush" and it wasn't a Premium service etc., I called up last night to see if they could do it today, they said "no probs, just bring it down early and we'll get it done".

I thought nothing of it until I got the text invoice...I'll pay but question where the extra £20 comes from.

I usually take it somewhere else but that place couldn't do it as they'd bought the wrong insurance so they couldn't ride anyone's bikes to the MOT test centre they use...idiots!

Lesson learned I guess.  However they DID do a great while-you-wait job on the rear caliper though, split caliper (neither bolt would budge), removed 2 broken retaining pins, removed 2 stuck pistons, all for £20.  It allowed me to clean, rebuild and bleed myself so saved £60 labour.

Swings and roundabouts.


Like you say, a bit much for the MOT which you needed and they should've advised extra cost. Decent price for the caliper though.


I'd just pay up and get the MOT elsewhere next time.........unless you fancy a row after a day's work.


I agree with Tiger pay them what they ask, tell all you friends not to use the robing bastards services and the go on Facebook and tell your story about your expierence with the garage. I would have asked them if they usually wore a mask and rode a horse named Black Bess.
3
General / Re: Price for MOT - thought it was £29.65, garage invoicing for £50
« Last post by darrsi on 23 July 2017, 11:46:26 PM »
Pre MOT check, that does sound like a load of bollox to me too.
Most people would just say it failed then ask if you want them to fix it or send you away to fix whatever needs doing.


I found out by chance recently when i looked up my bike on the free Government MOT check website that my bike had been failed a few times then given a pass straight after.
One time was when i took a new tyre in to be fitted while they had the bike.
I NEVER let my tyre tread go so low as to be considered a fail, but even though i just wanted it changed he failed it on the tyre then passed it with the replacement.
But i have never ever been aware of any of this.
I've only had one MOT failure in 30 years riding, and that was in the early 90's.
It makes no difference but i do consider it a bit cheeky and underhand to be honest, as i found about 3 fails on that website.
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General / Re: Price for MOT - thought it was £29.65, garage invoicing for £50
« Last post by Mick-H on 23 July 2017, 11:39:13 PM »
Name and shame comes to mind, defo a rip off and others need to know so they don't get the same treatment.
5
General / Re: cooling system flush
« Last post by tommyardin on 23 July 2017, 11:38:38 PM »
Not sure if it is absolutely necessary but I used de-ironised water you can also use distilled water instead of tap water.


I live in a really hard water area and kettles fur up badly so my thinking was to go the above route.
I also flushed mine with a hose and ran the bike for about 12 miles (to local town and back) with just fresh tap water in it and drained it out again while still fairly hot, the flush water came out clear.
But to be honest I actually think the original stuff in the cooling system was fine as it was still very pink and no hint of discolouration. The little clear expansion tank at the back was also clean inside.


I refilled the system with pink 5 year concentrated stuff and de-ionised water, that was the winter before last and it's still clear pink.
6
General / Re: Price for MOT - thought it was £29.65, garage invoicing for £50
« Last post by mtread on 23 July 2017, 11:32:49 PM »
What's a 'pre MOT test'? Is it like 'doing an MOT'? So you've been charged twice for the same piece of work. Rip off, and they say they do it unless told otherwise  :rolleyes .... Demand your money back.
7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Have I blown my battery
« Last post by Disorderlypunk on 23 July 2017, 11:27:59 PM »

as you think its the battery then just start with looking at that (lights etc off)
[/size]1:- do you have a electrical tester - get bike running on bike batt and test your voltage is 14-14.8 volts while running.(bet its low)
[/size]   -infact what was it reading before and after running
[/size]2:- take a battery from a mates bike or use jump leads to a car battery
(not a running car and do not have your bike battery in the setup as you are only using the car battery as a bike battery)
while running test voltage on car battery [/size]-if voltages seem ok then test your lighting system
let us know the results[/font]
if you read anything above 15v across the battery kill engine and instantly disconnect battery (reg/rec gone) battery cooked[/font]
if you read well below 14v then its not creating enough juice and is likely a reg/rec gone battery might be savable[/font]
if all is reading as it should then you know the issue is elsewhere in the system (i hate electrics for fault finding)[/font]
8
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Have I blown my battery
« Last post by Just a Faze im in on 23 July 2017, 11:00:12 PM »
Thanks Tommy but my lights, etc were working before I dropped the starter relay terminal onto the battery. Not afterwards thou.

As for the starting problem that occured first it could be a connector issue. It's very strange. Will check all the connectors once I get power back working.
9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Have I blown my battery
« Last post by tommyardin on 23 July 2017, 10:54:09 PM »
Hi,
I think the first place I would start looking is under the left hand front fairing infill panel if you have no power to the lights indicators etc.


Under the left hand side (Clutch lever side) infill panel is a large (white in colour) multiple electrical connector, it is a known issue with the FZS 600 water gets into this connector and the terminals in there corrode and cause all sorts of intermittent headlight side light speedo and rev counter issues.


It is two screws to remove this infill panel, after removing switch ignition on and lights and pull and push this connector about if the instruments, lights, indicators and ignition lights come on and go off as your are wiggling the connector you have found your problem.


That would be my starting point trying to solve the problem, especially as that is the area that you have most recently worked on.


It is also a possibility that dropping the starter relay onto the battery causing sparks has /maybe screwed it, but try the connector block mentioned above before you spend any money


Let us know how you get on.


tommy
   
10
General / Re: cooling system flush
« Last post by Arfa on 23 July 2017, 10:45:38 PM »
Yep use Radflush. Flushed mine with it a couple of years ago, as it all came out super brown like yours sounds. Flushed it again last month and all came out a nice bright pink, so it must have done the job.
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