i used some cheap JBweld "ish" exhaust repair putty i had laying around and i can say that didnt work
proper JBweld and really jamming it in will be the next plan untill i can afford a new aftermarket can and link pipe
(and if that dont work out comes the welder and vht paint)

i think you may have found the problem
just be carefull with the fuel pipe ,remove from the pump end not the carb end - that little T-piece seperator cost 35-40 quid if i remember correctly
i was a little shocked after it snapped on my hand and even more shocked when i saw the price.

badly fitted / too fine a thread / not enough threads on the original part number
a bit of all of the above

i read earlier about sealed in ht leads to the coils
i cannot garruntee on the fazers but these often can be redone with a bit of time and patience
i did some on my gsx1100 chop build i just used a bradawl and a little screwdriver while sat in the garden watching youtube
just started picking out the epoxy that was holding in the ht leads then yanked it hard (then got back to working on coils)
once out i was able to clean up the surfaces with screwdriver scraping, inserted new HT's and a bit of epoxy, job done

anyone happen to know if the 2k boxeye shared its carbs with any other model - im looking at some k+n filters for a 99 fzr600 and they are pretty close to my sketchy dimensions (good verniers battery flat so using my cheap as fuck plastic ones which are no good for precise measurements)
- seen the price of the ones rubyracing used and found some cheaper ones which might work better for harmonic resonance if they fit

-- fitter wont fix once used it (the slime that is)
there is the point, why when obviously at home would you put £10 shit in your tyre when 10 mins spanner spinning has a wheel you can take down and have fixed correctly, and not cost another £xxx for a new one
(pretty sure having all that extra weight in your tyre would cause some issues aswell)
(slime is a great emergancy repair if i was down my uncles 300miles away on a sunday and needed to get home but had a flat from a nail i would use it but if im anywhere in cumbria i wouldnt, i would find another way)

yeah the welding way is definatly better - it was just something that went through my head so i like to see others opinions
i think the threads would be the point of failure not the weld through holes as it doesnt take a huge amount of force on there
(its not a huge rotational force like on the sprocket splines)
but the weld and remove way is definatly better

thats the main thing 'once unavailable'
there are loads of engines out there that parts are hens teeth so it was more a wider usage
there could be someone reading this with and old francis barnet motor or something and i just gave them the way to fix what cant be bought
im going to be getting loads machined up and down during the streetfighter build so one more piece wont break the bank

true but putting a new one in there how much would a brand spanking new gearbox shaft cost
if its second hand then it could still have the same problem
going down a size is viable but for the size of the nut and its importance i would rather keep that part oem
not to mention its a recessed nut so prob quite hard to get hold of
yes the engine needs stripped but im doing it anyhow during the frame redesign.

could do with an engineer to double check this out and let everyone know before this is tried was just an idea and i know there are some amazing lathe machinists out there
i keep reading about output shafts being stripped and i cringe when i hear the sprockets have been welded on (yeah it works but)
i will be stripping my engine down before long and i know my output shaft has seen better days so was wondering if it was viable to sleeve the threaded shaft after turning it down and having that re threaded
obviously there is litle rotational stress in that area so i thought by making the sleeve a little bit smaller and using heat and compresssion to get as much friction between the two and even welding through holes to add more joint strength just incase
then turning it down and re threading again
-what do you guys think cause there are only so many of these used output shafts around.

Details shaft repair?

shaft repair?

cheers mate i was hoping someone out there would have one swinging around (ooh the bad puns)
time to make a list of usable swingarms after a bit of machining