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Messages - Disorderlypunk
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51
« on: 11 October 2020, 02:21:49 pm »
ooh, another thought, are your ht leads going to the correct cylinders,,
havent said if your getting any pops and bangs or anything so im
also after trying to start and it not working can you smell fuel vapour from the exhaust?
52
« on: 11 October 2020, 09:38:54 am »
compression test time, if you are absolutly sure you are definatly getting fuel then i would be looking at slightly stuck open valves
53
« on: 06 October 2020, 10:45:42 am »
could try numberplate bolts if they are the right thread size and weaken them at the head by cutting them a bit with a small hacksaw
-- the art of bodge is a well earned :-)
54
« on: 02 October 2020, 12:57:36 pm »
ive been a lover of avon tyres for years now since running venoms on my old cruiser, i ran cobras on my fazer and have roadriders on my 1100 gsx
i alwasy take my wheels of myself and buy tyres online if local tyre changer cant get the ones i want. i sometimes even take the old ones to the recycling center aswell to save a few quid on disposal charge :-)
55
« on: 28 September 2020, 10:49:39 am »
yep, im gonna guess you didnt release the adjuster when you fitted the new clutch cable and as its new its shorter so is affectively being pulled all the time, just release the adjuster and start the set up again by tightening the screw untill about right then any more adjustments can be done at the lever end..
56
« on: 09 September 2020, 08:16:54 pm »
ha ha i knew i did a video somewhere - if your runng standards then dunno if it will help
57
« on: 04 September 2020, 03:03:30 pm »
put the front wheel the other way round with all spacers speedo etc and see if the allignment goes the other way
so if it was 10mm to the right is it now 10mm to the left
im gonna guess you have had a new tyre fitted the wrong way and your going off the arrow on the tyre
if someone can check i am sure the speedo sensor is ment to be on the left hand side, and also make sure that is located niceley in the lug on the fork
(im gonna have to buy another fazer just to use for referance and photos  [size=78%])[/size]
Can't just go swapping the wheel round, it doesn't work like that.
The speed sensor fits in to a much bigger gap on the left side of the wheel, in comparison to a small spacer on the right side.
wording wasnt great - it was more about the speedo being in the right place but it was first thing in morning :-) i was meaning have is the speedo on the correct side and tyre not being on wrong or spacer being wrong, hell ive even seen forks been put on the wrong way round - im prob not making sense now as this is first break ive had since just after 7, i need another holiday
58
« on: 04 September 2020, 07:03:25 am »
put the front wheel the other way round with all spacers speedo etc and see if the allignment goes the other way so if it was 10mm to the right is it now 10mm to the left im gonna guess you have had a new tyre fitted the wrong way and your going off the arrow on the tyre if someone can check i am sure the speedo sensor is ment to be on the left hand side, and also make sure that is located niceley in the lug on the fork (im gonna have to buy another fazer just to use for referance and photos [size=78%])[/size]
59
« on: 26 August 2020, 02:58:06 pm »
sorry for the huge size
60
« on: 26 August 2020, 02:56:59 pm »
hopefully this will work as a linkhttps://i0.wp.com/motorizedbicyclebuilder.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/sparkplugchart.png?fit=1600%2C1458&ssl=1 
61
« on: 09 August 2020, 05:47:02 pm »
ive got a wierd feeling no power is going up to the front at all - there will always be power going to the starter relay as one post is connected to the battery - i would be looking at all the connectors first and giving them a clean
62
« on: 09 August 2020, 04:28:40 pm »
i always thought that was standard. i wouldnt worry about it its just how it does it, imagine it not doing that just after a fuel drain, there isnt a pressure switch in system so its a low pressure pump just to help out
always did it on mine and im sure a few more people will notice it now its been pointed out :-)
63
« on: 06 August 2020, 11:11:19 am »
just a little air locked nothing to worry about as long as everything is running fine
any fuel leaving will be getting replaced by the pumps negative pressure
some jiggery pokery with the hoses can get the air back up the line and back into the tank but it can be a ball ache
64
« on: 01 August 2020, 10:11:34 am »
im sure its a single unit inside counting the pulses sent to the unit and increasing when it hits a certain number,
if total miles aint going up then there is a good chance something has gone on the pcb inside the unit
65
« on: 14 June 2020, 11:52:14 pm »
i forgot i did this video :-)
66
« on: 14 June 2020, 09:25:54 pm »
sounds like an o-ring between the carb on the metal joiner has either got pinched or perished, if you replaced these then make sure you use a nitrile NBR o-ring as they are less likely to have a reaction a handy chemical resistance chart i have in my favorites is https://mscrm-dupont.secure.force.com/CRG_TlargiGuide
67
« on: 14 June 2020, 09:21:02 pm »
i wouldnt worry about it too much (you dont have much choice)
if you use a 6 point socket rather than the nut chewing 12 pointers you should be fine
when you do adjust the screw i found using the driver through the socket keeps the nut in place so you dont move it then you can hand tighten the nut again without moving the screw as your driver is still there. then do a final tighten with your ratchet
68
« on: 04 May 2020, 08:37:03 pm »
Did you try without the air filter in?
I've opened up the gap between the airbox and the carbs, the filter looks pretty good anyway though
what area are you in - nothing in your bio ??
69
« on: 04 May 2020, 11:36:00 am »
The filter and pipe look fine and the fuel is getting into the carb bowls...I'm getting suction at the carb mouths too but just can't work out why the plugs would be bone dry....I blew through the Jets etc when I cleaned the carbs and didn't see any sign of dirt inside... can't think of anything else it could be though apart from the carbs, but, also seems strange that it's affecting all of them not just 1?
When you say "blew through" if the pilot jets are blocked no amount of blowing will clear them. Is there fuel in all the float bowls? Also check the air intake for the air box, another very common fault is things being sucked in like rag etc.
im with gnasher here, jets need to be removed and inspected then blocked holes cleaned through with a piece of wire. the blowing through is just for all the passageways that you cant see through just to see what happens and to check nothing is blocking a passageway. especially checking the air feeds on the carb inlets. - i dont have any carbs here to do a quick pic
70
« on: 03 May 2020, 01:41:40 pm »
just a quick double check
you say you gave the carbs a good going over with cleaner
did you have all the jets out etc and blast through all the passageways with carbcleaner/compressed air ??
ive been sent carbs to ultrasonic / sodablast / bench setup that have been "cleaned" and was internally a mess before now
71
« on: 03 May 2020, 08:32:44 am »
its looking like fuel. you said that you tried new fuel but even if you drained the fuel from the tank there would still be a good amount in the fuel pump + lines - remove the fuel line carb side and put it in a suitable CLEAN container then turn ignition on to prime the pump and it should throw it into the container and you can see if it is a fuel water mix (i use coffee jars a lot for this) have you tried spraying easy start etc into the airbox to see if you get any pop pop bang bang [size=78%] ?[/size][/size]
72
« on: 27 April 2020, 08:01:32 pm »
your right. no filter should get blocked up - why i added the part about other problems
different length in filter material means different flow characteristics between pump flow and pressure (if filter is used as a flow meter which does happen)
yes positioning may change various characteristics of oil temp etc. but why change to a filter not designed for that specific motor (unless highly modded where an actual oil cooler would be the way to go)
its £5 for a hiflo filter so why even bother thinking one from another model would do (and i bodge all the time but not for £5)
73
« on: 27 April 2020, 09:05:10 am »
there wouldnt be any benefit from this other than takes longer to get blocked up and in that case your not changing your oil enough and are going to have other problems.
there is a reason those highly experienced yamaha engineers built it with that size oil filter,
74
« on: 27 April 2020, 08:59:58 am »
just use a bit of loctite 222 (purple low strength) reduces the chance of corrosion dramatically and creates a barrier against galvanic corrosion
+ being low strength wont give too much resistance when removing
a lot of boat builders use something called tefgel but its bloody expensive and i dont think has any anti loosening property's
75
« on: 20 April 2020, 09:54:57 pm »
i think it was 756 i used, gave wezmoto a ring for new brake lines which were perfect
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