A little trick I learnt for rust is to rub them with a ball of tin foil , the foil is softer than the chrome but harder than the rust , thus it removes the rust 

just tried it and works a treat . gonna pick up some chrome nail varnish and use a cocktail stick to feed it in there to hide the chip and seal it
(never use the brush)

might go with shrink wrap - reasoning being i have loads of it and im less likely to get a bollocking when the leftovers need to be wrapped
(also its a bit stronger than cling film)
great tip thankyou

im sure there is some spray adhesive in the cupboardcling film for movement or additional waterproofing ????

I think he means the part that slides inside the the fork leg (shiny bit)


A little trick I learnt for rust is to rub them with a ball of tin foil , the foil is softer than the chrome but harder than the rust , thus it removes the rust 

ok thats a new one -- so gonna have to try this

if these are not available anymore you might be able to fashion up some brackets using what is available from diy stores and ebay
just google the names of stuff and you will find them (you will have to measure stuff though)


fig 4+3 shows what would be called a munsen ring - readily available, even at screwfix


fig 2 is just a munsen ring backplate which are usually flat
------- because of the spacing here i would just make up the plate myself with alloy flat bar then drill a central hole to short bolt a threaded spacer to create this piece then use a washer between the fairing and threaded spacer to stop it breaking through


fig 1 - this is where you are going to have to get really creative with a piece of alloy flat bar and a vice to start bending it (impossible to guess from a drawing)


there are rubber lined munsen rings out there but its on you to find them


hope this gives you a backup if nothing else is available

im sure if you walked in with 1525-1650 in cold hard cash and said that is the best you can do (dont do a 00 number) the sight of the cash will twist his arm - i say dont do a 00 number because it is a physiological thing that a 00 number you can get a bit more a 25 shows you are trying - hope that makes sense

how black is your exhaust tip ??????
shut garage door and start her up if you can smell it and your eyes are watering its a bit rich
if you collapse and die without noticing a petrol smell then it is fine but you stayed in the garage too long
--WARNING -- i do not advise collapsing and dying


you would be surprised how often we have figured one of our classic cars is rich by simply standing at the back of it
i so wish i was joking but i dont want to live in a nursing home so i will happily shorten it by sniffing exhausts

that looks exceptionally clean so i think the price is about right if its coming from a dealer
by any chance is that at j b motorcycles
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-600-low-miles-exceptional-condition-FSH-12mth-MOT/132462459485?hash=item1ed760ba5d:g:2kUAAOSwEVZaU7bG


looks so similar

standard 10 amp
i blew mine when i took the blown sidelight bulb out and the contacts slipped and touched (yep ignition on like an idiot)

That's an interesting read.  It makes me think that perhaps I should ditch the air wratchet (not impact driver) when rebuilding and stick to hand tools.

best thing i have read in ages - when dismantling i tend to use a buzz gun for most stuff as it is faster but when reassembling i might use a buzz to get things 95% done  (cam covers mainly) then i switch to hand tools just so i can feel everythings tightness then pull out the trusty torque wrench

i knew someone would post before i got home to my camera

Details

Details

Yes moving it up covers the reflector, I do actually have one fitted but it is not shown in the picture it is one of these  https://www.mandp.co.uk/reflector-30x84mm-rectangular-bolt-on.html and sits tight up against the bottom of the plate in the middle and is held in place whit a short bracket. Its bolted to the bracket with its own inbuilt bolt and one hole in the mudguard behind the plate.
when I moved up the plate I then cut off the bottom of the guard flush with the plate I used the same holes in the guard to mount the plate and brought a new plate and drilled new holes in the correct place to match       

could even just use the oem one under the plate - wonder if my original is still in my parts bin

yet no1 decided to post a photo on the location of this elusive bloody fuse - can i FOC find it