Date: 23-11-17  Time: 01:37 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Disorderlypunk

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 15
1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Loose front right foot peg.
« on: 22 November 2017, 11:15:43 PM »
Thanks Tommy ... will have to consult Mr Haynes’ manual more closely 😉 👍🏻


Your welcome Mjhb, if I can help as I walk life's beaten path. Lol!
Some members in here used to take the piss but thankfully that's been banned. :rollin :rolleyes


There are still a couple of foccers in here to watch out for, but firstly it would be bad etiquette to name them and secondly fazersharp and hedgetrimmer would be cross with me if I named them.


how did the interview at wikileaks go ???

2
FZS600 Fazer / Re: FAZER/THUNDERCAT FORKS ??
« on: 21 November 2017, 09:00:53 PM »
dont know exactly but from looking at info in the haynes manual the looks like they are totally different
the spring free length is a good 100mm longer which doesnt necceserily translate over to actuall length
but it does suggest yzf forks are longer which is more likely as doesnt the fzs have clip ons above the top yoke

3
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bike doesn't turn on / no lights
« on: 21 November 2017, 01:27:20 AM »
it is just a bodge pure and simple and i love a bodge here and there to work as a fix untill it can be done properly (i use a lot of them)
but that connector block was designed for use in houses and is an unsightly thing on a bike
a OEM connector is often not available and cost a fortune from aftermarket suppliers and i rarely use them
but a crimped bullet/spade connector is the way to go as they are made for vehicles and not your house


[edit] assuming you are meaning the block i pictured - there is nothing wrong with the oem block its unfortunate that yours had a failure that is rare to see

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« on: 21 November 2017, 01:05:38 AM »
i only mentioned wd40 (the devils semen) because unfortunately that seems to be the only lubrication some people tend to know about
wd40 your ignition barrel   - NO NO NO (use carb cleaner then a graphite spray - never an oil) (try carb/brake cleaner first as a test next time)
wd40 your tight bolts - NO use a proper penetration spray
wd40 your wifes arse - NO NO NO be nice and use Another type of penetration lube


wd40 is great for some jobs dont get me wrong and i always have some but it is rarely the correct thing to use
we have a can in our rally cars tool box but rarely use it back at the garage is its primary roll is water displacement
can it penetrate YES - is it the best HELL NO

5
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« on: 20 November 2017, 05:58:56 PM »
im not sure there is any threadlock in there (could be) the main problem we face is galvanic corrosion and it is a bastard.
its the same problem removing the bolts from the front mudguard which i ended up retapping larger after drilling them out


there are all sorts of tricks out there for stuck bolts from this corrosion but the problem is you cant really get to the threads to implement them
remember once it starts coming out to screw it back in a little every so often (seriously- it unbinds the crap from the threads)

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing Rear brake disc
« on: 20 November 2017, 01:05:24 PM »

if the wheel isnt off yet hit the bolts with some plus gas every day for a few days while your waiting for the new disc

if you aint got a welder but have a blowtorch get some heat on those bolts then hit them with some plus gas /wd40 / thin oil and let them cool
and give them a good whack with a hammer to shock them (every little helps)

there is also the candle wax trick but hardly anyone has candles anymore
then its time to get out the shortest socket you have and a breaker bar - those fuckers are tighter than a ducks arse but not as waterproof



7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bike doesn't turn on / no lights
« on: 19 November 2017, 11:39:17 PM »
holy crap what happened there - not been on this post in a while expecting it to be a simple thing like a loose connector that just needed you to find
but bloody hell thats an impressive failure
does look like it could have been corrosion on the connections causing a smaller contact patch causing excessive heat and in turn smouldering connector block
but who knows - a bit of trimming and the correct type of connector and you will be laughing again
i will repeat this bit - CORRECT TYPE OF CONNECTOR BLOCK
i do that because there are certain types of block i see that never belong in a bikes wiring loom



8
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 2002 FZS 600 Foxeye Fazer service book.
« on: 19 November 2017, 06:10:05 PM »
have just realised i have done the service items for the 98-2001 models i will get round to doing them for other models when i can

9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 2002 FZS 600 Foxeye Fazer service book.
« on: 19 November 2017, 05:26:31 PM »
well here is a start of what i have recreated
didn't do the warranty pages as we dont really need them
print SB1 on some glossy card for a proper looking piece
print SB2 on the reverse of the glossy card
print SB3 on both sides of paper as many times as you want for as many pages as you want
one A4 printed both side will give 8 pages
cut one lengthways line then fold then staple together



10
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bike doesn't turn on / no lights
« on: 18 November 2017, 12:09:50 PM »
Years ago I had a prick pen, now, now that's enough lads, allow me to continue.
It was like a ballpoint pen with a very sharp short needle at one end and a small bulb at the other end, half way along its length it had a flying lead about 2 foot long with a small crocodile clip.


Now somehow the needle and the centre contact on the bulb must of been connected and the flying lead to the mount or negative side of the bulb.
It was brilliant for finding out if cables had power and you could work your way along the length of a cable or wire and find the exact point the the break was. The needle made such a fine hole in the insulation just rubbing that sport hard with a thumb nail and it seemed to disappear.
 I,m going to make one, it's not rocket science. Sewing machine needle,  six inch length plastic tube, small bulb (12 volt) and bulb holder, wire a crock clip and builder bucket full of aradite. Jobs-a-Goodun


Update:
thinking about it you could do exactly the same thing using a multi meter with a very sharp positive probe


just get some spare leads for your multimeter and solder a sewing machine needle to it on positive side (just key the multimeter surface first to make sure it gets a good hold)
- could try tacking it on with a welder but i have a feeling something would melt first

11
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing HT Leads and Plug Caps/Boots
« on: 15 November 2017, 07:39:14 PM »
i have seen a link on that somewhere but it started a big argument about resistance and how it runs in series so it only got half the voltage
 it was on my want list and still may become part of the build but im on the fence on this one


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,7993.msg264655.html#msg264655
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,7993.msg264655.html#msg264655

12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 2002 FZS 600 Foxeye Fazer service book.
« on: 15 November 2017, 07:35:46 PM »
i can clear all that on photoshop - its just so i get the right look - i will pretty much remake the whole thing using the filled in one as a guide
(kind of like using a light box and greaseproof paper)
thats why if you see a scan of my driving licence there are no points on it lol

13
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing HT Leads and Plug Caps/Boots
« on: 15 November 2017, 01:59:44 PM »
i coated my HT with grease just above the cap before sliding the rubber boot back down onto the cap it helps keep any water out that might possible seep through - black rtv sealant would work even better


ive replaced ht's from sealed coils before and its a time consuming job i just sat on the sofa with a tray below me to catch the crap while watching tv
cut off the old ht and started picking at it with a threaded bradawl (Gimlet) then a small screwdriver to cut out any other crap
i put a new ht lead in and once tested i sealed it in with a black epoxy i had laying around - any epoxy will do but i had black coils and black ht leads so it made sense to use the black.

14
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacing HT Leads and Plug Caps/Boots
« on: 14 November 2017, 11:29:29 PM »
and that is why myself and everyone else who is not an idiot uses the NGK option
ooh i cant wait till someone says they bought OEM plug caps, because that says they have more money than sense

15
if i get my new jets tommorow i will have a look and if i see something i will try and do a little video of what is going on in that region

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 2002 FZS 600 Foxeye Fazer service book.
« on: 14 November 2017, 08:42:33 PM »
daviee any chance you could scan it or take photos so i can mess around on photoshop cleaning it up and make one for the download section that looks original for people ???


although i have no idea how i would get it onto the download section yet



17
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 2002 FZS 600 Foxeye Fazer service book.
« on: 14 November 2017, 04:51:51 PM »
no mistake made its just a confusion on owners manual as both the little booklet you get from yamaha and the haynes manual are often referered to as owners manual


haynes manuals dont have them in - they never do
little owners booklet doesnt  - see link http://www.3wires.net/manuals/FZS600OM.pdf


i am unable to find anything for recording service history like you get in the leather folders in the glovebox of a car (what i am guessing your looking for)


18
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 2002 FZS 600 Foxeye Fazer service book.
« on: 13 November 2017, 07:36:05 PM »
would be suprised if any still came with a recording booklet
i just type it in notepad and keep it in the folder with the manual i downloaded from the download section

19
now is the time to take the piss
its time for a poll


https://goo.gl/oENybF

20
ok this is getting out of hand very quickly


so setting them all at the same zero would work in a perfect world and most of the time could work
HOWEVER
due to how these sort of things work they need calibrated in use as they have moving parts and springs and all other things that may not be exactly the same as each other and will show a different reading anywhere other than 1 bar


another way to explain  calbration is  2 torque wrench's sitting on a table, one calibrated, one way out
you have no way to know which is which untill you put them under force on a test rig
ok we dont have a test rig for vacuum BUT WE DO we have four different ones of them
each cylinder is its own test rig giving the same vacuum all the time (ish)


21
im with daviee on this one
if there is a stopper to say zero (1bar) then i would avoid buying them, i would prefer something that does both negative and positive pressure.
when calibrating at home i would use one carb as a control to see they are all giving the same reading (calibrated to each other)
these setups are not that good at giving correct pressure readings but they can be good for making sure they all have the same negative pressure.
if you want accurate pressure readings from 4 individual carbs then the 30 quid kits are not going to cut it.

i will say i dont have one of these relatively cheap set ups myself but have come across them now and again - they can be usefull as long as they are calibrated now and again.

22
i think daviee is referring to the calibration of the carb balancers - i have had my eye on the same setups for a while but i know my bench setup works pretty well then i tune it with my ear and a piece of pipe (years of practice and still learning from my pops, webers and classic rally cars gives an advantage) the problem after balancing is the idle screw and getting it right from there


think of it this way - a cylinder will usually take as much air as it wants in there once ballanced (allowing same air volume) - our job is to give the right amount of fuel for that amount of air weather that be during tickover (idle screw) or jets and needles for later in the ranges
if your running stock everything then a quick balance then idle screw setup is all you need to worry about
(assuming you have clean carbs and no gummed up emulsion tubes)


a lot of people also overlook doing a compression test if things are a bit lumpy at tickover (including myself)

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Has my bike been lowered?
« on: 07 November 2017, 04:50:25 PM »
on side stand the left hand join on the center panel is 35 1/2 inches from the ground
(just ran in garage to measure what i could)

24
FZS600 Fazer / Re: headlight relays ?
« on: 05 November 2017, 11:04:56 AM »
i have twin mini bates on the chop and they are poor and they use old style bulbs
the 5 3/4" bates i used was a lot better and had a H4 bulb (had osram night racer in that - still have the helmet shaped box it came in)
- got to be carefull firing in crazy wattage bulbs had a bike in the other week and it fried the wiring cause they put in a 90W h4 bulb and the wiring couldnt cope

25
FZS600 Fazer / Re: headlight relays ?
« on: 04 November 2017, 09:53:50 PM »
update on this is
the relay mod does improve things
HOWEVER as metioned above the dominator headlights are shite
i looked inside and could see the reflector is extremly mottled (not smooth)
had a similar problem years ago with a bates headlight having lots its shine and fixed it with a bit of autosol with great results
DO NOT DO THIS WITH DOMINATORS - it removed the chrome in seconds and its now a shiney black paint
but it gets funnier - ordered a basic round headlight to do the job as now hitting the dark nights of winter (waiting on delivery)
thought i would hit the now useless headlight with paint stripper to remove the black and polish the steel just to help a bit, but the stripper didnt do anything to the black - or the chrome stuff that came off with autosol
strange things happen in my workshop that confuse not only me but also my father that just laughed and said - 'well that was made in china' lol

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 15