Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZ6 / Fazer => Topic started by: carcrusher on 16 July 2017, 03:34:10 pm
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As the title says, I want to replace them since they're showing signs of wear and also I don't have a complete history of the bike to know when they were last changed.
wemoto.com shows me a DID chain and JT sprockets kit but should I wanted to know what other people think.
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I always buy separate parts.
While there is nothing wrong with the JT kit there is better out there, I use and highly recommend renthal sprockets and a did X ring chain.
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Oops wrong section
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🤪🤪
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As the title says, I want to replace them since they're showing signs of wear and also I don't have a complete history of the bike to know when they were last changed.
wemoto.com shows me a DID chain and JT sprockets kit but should I wanted to know what other people think.
I've used the same set with a 520 DID X Ring Gold chain and JT sprockets and it's served me well (I do have a Scotoiler on the bike, so there's no problems with keeping it lubed).
You can get the "cushioned" front sprocket which has a rubber section around the middle that's supposed to make it less noisy, but it's not necessary.
Don't forget to buy a new tab washer for the front sprocket when you get the rest!
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I replaced the lot last April before a 10,000KM trip to Darwin and then put another 2,500KM on them in December 2019.
The Darwin ride had a lot of constant high speed riding and the December ride was a lot of hard acceleration through mountain twisty roads.
I found a DID X Ring Gold chain and JT sprockets kit online for a good price and I'm satisfied with the performance and value.The old OEM set had amazingly managed 42,000KM before they were shot.
I did a lot of research first and found this DID info very helpful https://didchain.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/2020-Chain-Spec-Chart.pdf (https://didchain.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/2020-Chain-Spec-Chart.pdf)
JT sprockets have a respected name in the off-road world for value and quality.
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As the title says, I want to replace them since they're showing signs of wear and also I don't have a complete history of the bike to know when they were last changed.
wemoto.com shows me a DID chain and JT sprockets kit but should I wanted to know what other people think.
I've used the same set with a 520 DID X Ring Gold chain and JT sprockets and it's served me well (I do have a Scotoiler on the bike, so there's no problems with keeping it lubed).
You can get the "cushioned" front sprocket which has a rubber section around the middle that's supposed to make it less noisy, but it's not necessary.
Don't forget to buy a new tab washer for the front sprocket when you get the rest!
They're not all the same Graham. Later models S2 have a nut with a flanged end on, you punch the end into the slot on the output shaft
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I've used the same set with a 520 DID X Ring Gold chain
Off the top of my head and unless I'm going nuts, the chain should be 530 ;)
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Off the top of my head and unless I'm going nuts, the chain should be 530 ;)
520 or 530 will work. The 520 is lighter, but will wear quicker, the 530 is fraction wider.
A 530 would be a little loose on 520 sprockets, a 520 won't fit on 530s, so provided you match the chain and sprockets, it really makes little difference.
There's a good video explaining this here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi6s0ewtUQM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi6s0ewtUQM)
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Off the top of my head and unless I'm going nuts, the chain should be 530 ;)
520 or 530 will work. The 520 is lighter, but will wear quicker, the 530 is fraction wider.
A 530 would be a little loose on 520 sprockets, a 520 won't fit on 530s, so provided you match the chain and sprockets, it really makes little difference.
There's a good video explaining this here: [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi6s0ewtUQM[/url] ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi6s0ewtUQM[/url])
Yep, if you change the sprockets as well, you could fit within reason any size chain, but why?
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Yep, if you change the sprockets as well, you could fit within reason any size chain, but why?
I presume you're asking "Why change to a 520 chain?" instead of "Why change the sprockets at all?"
And if someone wants to use a 520 chain and sprockets, what's the problem with it?
They're compatible with the FZ6 and not going to cause any damage.
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[quote author=Grahamm link=topic=22917.msg316834#msg316834 date=1593014745
I presume you're asking "Why change to a 520 chain?" instead of "Why change the sprockets at all?"
And if someone wants to use a 520 chain and sprockets, what's the problem with it?
They're compatible with the FZ6 and not going to cause any damage.[/quote]
Yamaha spend a fortune on designing bikes and spec out all the components, to offer the best mix of service life and performance. If you want to ignore that and fit something different that's a matter for you, fill your boots mate. :)
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Yamaha spend a fortune on designing bikes and spec out all the components, to offer the best mix of service life and performance. If you want to ignore that and fit something different that's a matter for you, fill your boots mate. :)
Yamaha built the FZ6 on the cheap.
I already have a 520 DID X Ring Gold and JT sprockets on the bike as well as Bridgstone T31 tyres (so much better than the OEM Dunlop 220s)
I've just fitted new rear shock, NGK plugs, HEL braided brake lines and a 4 degree ignition advancer, I've also got a set of Hyperpro fork springs to install.
Boots definitely full :thumbup
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...and a 4 degree ignition advancer, I've also got a set of Hyperpro fork springs to install.
Boots definitely full :thumbup
I'm not familiar with the 4 degree ignition advancer mod, what's the gain with this one? I see they're cheap on ebay, easy to fit? Worth fitting to my FZ6 S2? Can you point me to some more info.
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I'm not familiar with the 4 degree ignition advancer mod, what's the gain with this one?
Engines are generally tuned to run off the crappiest petrol available, so they retard the spark to give the best chance of a good ignition.
As we have reasonably good quality petrol in the UK, this is unnecessary and advancing the spark allows more complete combustion of the fuel/ air mixture.
Basically it gives better running and improved throttle response.
The most important thing when fitting it is to ensure that you DO NOT let the timing rotor turn anti-clockwise when you're undoing the rotor bolt, otherwise it will throw the timing off and (at worst) could result in catastrophic engine damage.
There's various suggestions online, putting it in first gear, holding the brake down, using a screwdriver (or custom tool), but, personally, I used an 8mm spanner wedged between one of the timing rotor teeth and the bottom left of the rotor housing to stop it turning anti-clockwise as I unscrewed the bolt.
Note that the bolt may well be threadlocked on, so I had to use a breaker bar to get enough leverage.
Also use a Sharpie to put a couple of lines on the timing chain and the inside of the casing to ensure that it stays in the right place.
This is the one I bought: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163936332980 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163936332980)
You will also need a new gasket, this is the best priced one I could find: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ6-N-FZ6-NAHG-YZF-R6-2003-2009-Oil-Pump-Cover-Gasket-5SL-15456-00-5/153893393187 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ6-N-FZ6-NAHG-YZF-R6-2003-2009-Oil-Pump-Cover-Gasket-5SL-15456-00-5/153893393187)
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I'm not familiar with the 4 degree ignition advancer mod, what's the gain with this one?
Engines are generally tuned to run off the crappiest petrol available, so they retard the spark to give the best chance of a good ignition.
As we have reasonably good quality petrol in the UK, this is unnecessary and advancing the spark allows more complete combustion of the fuel/ air mixture.
Basically it gives better running and improved throttle response.
E10
Is it time to retard again?
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E10
Is it time to retard again?
I've done several hundred miles with E10 petrol (including two rides that were 200 and 150 miles respectively) and I've noticed no change in performance between E5 and E10 petrol, so I'm keeping the 4 degree ignition advancer in place :thumbup